IMPORTANT. 

We  would  have  you  notice  that  the  world  is  moving — 
moving  rapidly,  too.  Rapid  advances  have  been  made  in  all 
kinds  of  business  operations  during  the  last  decade,  arrd  in, 
none  more  than  in  the  Stove  and  Furnace  business.  Just 
here  we  would  whisper  in  confidence  to  you,  that  this  rapid 
advance,  so  far  as  the  stove  business  is  concerned,  has  not 
been  an  universal  one.  There  are  still  some  back  numbers 
in  the  business— men  who  think  "a  stove  good  enough  for 
GRANDFATHER  is  good,  enough  .for  me."  Now,  we 
feel  sure  you  are  not  to  be  classed  among  that  number;  in 
fact,  we  KNOW  you  are  not  one  of  that  class,  otherwise 
you  would  not  be  reading  this  book.  Now,  then,  knowing 
you  to  be  a  live,  progressive,  wide-awake  dealer,  we  feel  no 
hesitancy  whatever  in  stating  clearly  and  plainly,  so  as  not 
to  be  misunderstood,  that  if  you  desire  to  keep  your  reputa- 
tion of  progressiveness,  as  well  as  your  growing  trade,  you 
cannot  afford  to  overlook  our  line  of  strictly  up-to-date  stoves 
and  furnaces.  Of  course,  we  cannot  enumerate  them  all 
here,  but  can  only  call  your  attention  to  our  line  of  Penn 
Esther  Ranges.  They  are  the  leading  ranges  on  the  market 
to-day.  We  make  that  assertion  without  fear  of  contra- 
diction— it  is  an  acknowledged  fact.  They  are  selling  as 
fast  as  we  can  make  them,  and  if  you  want  to  be  in  it,  you 
cannot  afford  to  do  business  without  having  them  repre- 
sented on  your  floor. 

The  same  can  be  said  of  our  Penn  Perfect  Furnace — 
but  in  order  to  appreciate  our  line  you  should  be  in  pos- 
session of  our  latest  catalogue,  circulars,  etc.,  and  a  postal 
card  will  procure  them.  Remember  that  the  Mt.  Penn  Stove 
Works,  located  at  Reading,  Pennsylvania,  is  moving — mov- 
ing rapidly,  as  we  stated  the  world  was,  at  the  beginning  of 
this  notice— and  in  order  to  keep  posted  in  the  latest  and 
best  things  in  stove  manufacture,  you  must  keep  in  constant 
touch  with  Mt.  Penn.  Wherever  you  see  the  word  "  Penn  " 
In  connection  with  another  word  making  up  the  name  of  a 
stove,  "  that's  us." 


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We  solicit  inquiries  from  all  established  Hardware 
and  Stove  dealers  or  from  those  just  starting. 


EXCLUSIVE  AGENCY  GIVEN. 


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THE 


Manual  of  Receipts 


BKINO   A.  COLLECTION  OF 

FORMULA  AND  PROCESSES  FOR  ARTISANS,  GIVING  THE 
COMPOSITION  OF  VARIOUS  ALLOYS,  AMALGAMS,  SOL- 
DERS, BRONZES,  LACQUERS,  VARNISHES,  CEMENTS, 
ETC.,  ALSO  DATA  FOR  THE  PRESERVATION 
AND    DECORATION    OF    VARIOUS 
METALLIC  ARTICLES. 


COMPILED 


TBOM  THB  FILES  OF  THB  AMERICAN  ABTISAK 
AND  VARIOUS  OTHER  SOURCES 


SIDNEY  P.  JOHNSTON 


1890 

Tax  AMERICAN  ARTISAN  PRESS 

69  Dearborn  Street 

CHICAGO 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1899,  by 

DANIEL  STERN, 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington,  D.  C 


PREFACE. 


Not  so  very  many  years  ago  the  publication  of  a 
book  such  as  this  one  would  have  been  an  impossi- 
bility, as  metal  workers  guarded  their  secrets  with 
jealous  care  and  would,  under  no  consideration,  give 
out  the  slightest  inkling  as  to  the  composition  of  the 
various  lacquers,  alloys,  etc.,  used  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  various  articles. 

The  stride  taken  by  analytical  chemistry  has 
changed  all  this,  knd  recent  years  have  seen  publicity 
thrown  on  the  ingredients  of  many  components  abso- 
lutely unknown  before. 

In  the  preparation  of  this  volume  I  have  freely 
availed  myself  of  the  vast  store  of  metal  receipts  and 
processes  contained  in  The  American  Artisan  during 
the  nineteen  years  of  its  existence.  These  aforesaid 
receipts  and  processes  are  certainly  of  special  value 
to  sheet  metal  workers,  as  they  have  at  one  time  or 
another  been  asked  for  by  readers  of  that  paper,  and 
in  a  number  of  cases  the  information  given  was  fur- 
nished by  manufacturers  using  the  receipt  in  their 
business  or  by  skilled  mechanics  furnishing  a  com- 
pound whose  ingredients  they  had  themselves  worked 
out,  these  valuable  data  being  first  published  in  The 
American  Artisan  and  never  having  appeared  in  book 
form  until  now. 

I  must  also  acknowledge  my  indebtedness  in  the 
compilation  of  this  volume  to  leading  American  and 
foreign  technical  journals,  notably  those  published  in 
Germany  in  behalf  of  the  metal  industry,  from  whose 
columns  I  have  from  time  to  time  clipped  receipts, 
the  cream  of  which  is  given  herewith. 

I  would  caution  those  attempting  a  practical  appli- 
cation of  these  receipts  to  be  careful  that  their  ingre- 


dients  are  proportioned  with  exactitude,  and  in  case 
of  a  failure  on  a  first  attempt  to  make  a  second  trial, 
as  a  too  large  or  too  small  proportion  of  some 
ingredient  or  the  Improper  manipulation  of  same 
can  generally  be  proven  the  cause  of  failure.  Ex- 
perimentation with  small  quantities  at  first  is  also 
advisable.  THE  COMPILER. 

Chicago,  January  4,  1899. 


THE 

AMERICAN  ARTISAN 

MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 


ACETATE  OF  LEAD. 

Acetate  <of  lead  is  obtained  by  the  dissolution  of 
litharge  in  acetic  -acid.  It  is  poisonous. 

AGATE  WARE— REPAIRING. 

To  mend  agate  ware,  place  the  article  to  be  repaired 
on  a  square  or  mandrel  stake  and  hammer  on  the  de- 
fective spot,  when  the  coating  will  come,  off  of  a  suffi- 
cient space  to  solder  or  patch. 

AICH  METAL. 

Aich  metal  is  a  copper-zinc  alloy  composed  of 
60  parts  Copper, 
38  2-10  parts  Zinc, 
1  8-10  parts  Iron. 

ALLOY  FOR  COLD  SOLDERING. 

An  alloy  for  cold  soldering  is  made  by  mixing  in  a 
cast-iron  mortar 

20  to  30  parts  finely-powdered  Copper, 

with 

Concentrated  Sulphuric  Acid, 
to  which 

70  parts  Mercury 
are   then   added.     This   finely   powdered   copper   Is 


6  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

secured  by  the  addition  of  zinc  to  a  sulphate  of  copper 
solution. 

The  amalgam  formed  from  the  mixture  in  the  mor- 
tar is  thoroughly  washed  with  water  in  order  to  bring 
about  the  removal  of  the  sulphuric  acid,  and  after 
being  left  alone  for  a  little  while  it  becomes  hard 
enough  for  scratching  laid.  When  this  alloy  is  em- 
ployed for  soldering  it  is  heated  until  the  assumption 
on  its  part  of  the  consistency  of  wax,  in  which  condi- 
tion to  the  joint  is  made. 

ALLOY  FOR  HOLES  IN  CASTINGS. 

Holes  in  castings  can  be  filled  up  by  pouring  liquid 
cast-iron  into  the  holes  and  removing  the  superfluous 
metal  by  an  iron  straight-edge.  It  is  usually  pre- 
ferred, however,  to  fill  up  these  cavities  with  an  alloy 
having  a  similar  appearance  to  the  cast-iron,  but 
being  much  more  fusible.  One  such  alloy  consists  of 
antimony  69  parts  (by  weight),  copper  16  parts,  tin  2; 
melted  together,  to  which  add  afterwards  lead  13 
parts. 

ALLOY  FOR  SOLDER. 

A  soft  alloy  which  attaches  itself  so  firmly  to  the 
surface  of  metals,  glass  and  porcelain  that  it  can  be 
employed  to  solder  articles  that  will  not  bear  high 
temperature,  can  be  made  as  follows:  Copper  dust 
obtained  by  precipitation  from  the  solution  of  the 
sulphate  by  means  of  zinc  is  put  in  a  cast-iron  or 
porcelain-lined  mortar  and  mixed  with  strong  sul- 
phuric acid,  specific  gravity,  1.85.  From  twenty  to 
thirty-six  parts  of  the  dust  are  taken,  according  to  the 
hardness  desired.  To  the  cake  formed  of  acid  and 
copper  there  is  added,  under  the  constant  stirring,  sev- 
enty parts  of  mercury.  When  well  mixed  the  amal- 
gam is  carefuly  rinsed  with  warm  water  to  remove 
all  the  acid  and  then  set  aside  to  cool.  In  ten  or 
twelve  hours  it  is  hard  enough  to  scratch  tin.  If  it 
is  to  be  used  now,  it  is  to  be  heated  so  hot  that  when 
worked  over  and  brayed  in  a  mortar  it  becomes  as 
soft  as  wax.  In  this  ductile  form  it  can  be  spread 
out  on  any  surface,  to  which  it  adheres  with  great 
tenacity  when  it  gets  cold  and  hard. 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  7 

ALLOYS-JAPANESE. 

In  Japan  some  specialties  in  metallic  alloys  are  in 
use,  whose  composition  is  as  follows:  Shadke  con- 
sists of  copper  with  1  to  10  per  cent,  of  gold.  Articles 
made  from  this  alloy  are  laid  in  a  pickle  of  blue 
vitriol,  alum  and  verdigris,  until  they  acquire  a  bluish- 
black  color.  Gui-shi-bu-ichi  is  an  alloy  of  copper  con- 
taining 30  to  50  per  cent,  of  silver.  It  possesses  a 
peculiar  gray  shade.  Mokume  consists  of  several  com- 
positions. Thus,  about  thirty  gold  foils  (genuine)  are 
welded  together  with  shadke,  copper,  silver  and  gui- 
shi-bu-ichi,  and  pierced.  The  pierced  holes  are,  after 
firm  hammering  together  of  the  plates,  filled  up  with 
the  above  named  pickle.  The  finest  Japanese  brass 
consists  of  10  parts  copper  and  8  parts  zinc,  and  is 
called  "siachu."  The  bell-metal,  "karakane","  is  com- 
posed of  copper,  10  parts;  tin,  10  parts;  iron,  0.5  part; 
and  zinc,  1.5  parts.  The  copper  is  first  fused,  then 
the  remaining  metals  are  added  in  rotation. 

ALLOY-LIPOWITZ'S. 

Lipowitz's  alloy  is  composed  of  tin  (4  parts),  lead 
(8  parts),  cadmium  (3  parts),  bismuth  (15  parts). 

ALLOY-MOUSSET'S  SILVER. 

Mousset's  silver  alloy  is  composed  of 
27  56-100  parts  Silver, 
9  57-100  parts  Zinc, 
3  42-100  parts  Nickel, 
56  6-110  parts  Copper. 
It  is  yellow  in  color,  with  a  reddish  tinge. 

ALLOY  OF  TIN  AND  COPPER. 

An  alloy  of  95  parts  of  tin  and  5  parts  of  copper 
will  connect  metals  with  glass,  according  to  the  Phar- 
maceutical Record.  The  alloy  is  prepared  by*  pouring 
the  copper  Into  the  molten  tin,  stirring  with  a  wooden 
mixer,  and  afterwards  remelting.  It  adheres  strong- 
ly to  clean  glass  surfaces  and  has  nearly  the  same 
rate  of  expansion  as  glass.  By  adding  from  one-half 


8  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

to  one  per  cent,  of  lead  or  zinc  the  alloy  may  be 
rendered  softer  or  harder,  or  more  or  less  easily  fusi- 
ble, as  required.  It  may  also  be  used  for  coating 
metals,  imparting  to  them  a  silvery  appearance. 

ALLOY— WOOD'S. 

Is  composed  of  tin  (2  parts),  lead  (4  parts),  cadmium 
(1  to  2  parts),  bismuth  (5  to  8  parts). 

ALUMINUM  BRASS. 

Aluminum  brass  is  an  alloy  composed  of  aluminum 
with  zinc  and  copper.  Some  of  the  commoner  propor- 
tions of  these  ingredients  are  as  follows: 

(1)  67  4-10  parts  Copper, 

26  8-10  parts  Zinc, 

5  8-10  parts  Aluminum. 

(2)  67  parts  Copper, 
30  parts  Zinc, 

3  parts  Aluminum. 

(3)  71  parts  Copper, 

27  5-10  parts  Zinc, 

1  5-10  parts  Aluminum. 

(4)  57  parts    Copper, 
42  parts  Zinc, 

1  part  Aluminum. 

(5)  70  parts  Copper, 
27  5-10  parts  Zinc, 

2  5-10  parts  Aluminum. 

ALUMINUM  COATING  FOR  IRON  AND   STEEL. 

The  aluminum  process  for  the  decoration  and  pres- 
ervation of  iron  and  steel  is  intended  to  take  the  place 
of  nickeling,  tinning  and  coppering.  The  coating  leaves 
the  sharpness  of  the  outline  unimpaired  and  adheres 
closely  to  cast  and  wrought  iron. 

AMALGAM-ARR1NGTON. 

Arrington  amalgam  is  composed  of  the  following: 
Silver,  40  per  cent;  tin,  60  per  cent. 


(MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  9 

AMALGAM-DIAMOND. 

Diamond  amalgam  is  composed  of  the  following: 
Silver,  31.76;  tin,  66.74;  gold,  1.50. 

AMALGAM— HOOD'S. 

Hood's  amalgam  is  composed  of  the  following:  Sil- 
ver, 34.64;  tin,  60.37;  gold,  2.70;  iron,  2.90. 

AMALGAM— JOHNSON  &  LUND'S. 

Johnson  &  Lund's  amalgam  is  composed  of  the  fol- 
lowing: Silver,  38.27;  tin,  59.58;  platinum,  1.34; 
gold,  0.81. 

AMALGAM-LAWRENCE'S. 

Lawrence's  amalgam  is  composed  of  the  following: 
Silver,  47.87;  tin,  33.68;  copper,  14.91;  gold,  3.54. 

AMALGAM   LIQUID   FOR   SILVERING   GLOBES, 
ETC. 

Pure  lead  and  grain  tin  each  1  ounce.  Melt  in  a 
clear  ladle  and  immediately  add  1  ounce  bismuth. 
Skim  off  the  dross,  remove  the  ladle  from  the  fire, 
and  before  the  metal  sets  add  1  ounce  quicksilver. 
Stir  the  compound  well,  aviding  the  fumes  evolved. 

AMALGAM— TOWNSEND'S. 

Townsend's  amalgam  is  composed  of  the  following: 
Silver,  40.21;  tin,  47.54;  copper,  10.65;  gold,  1.6. 

AMALGAM-TOWNSEND'S  IMPROVED. 
Townsend's  improved  amalgam  is  composed  of  the 
following:     Silver,  39.00;  tin,  55.65;  gold,  5.31. 

AMALGAM— WALKER'S. 

Silver,  34.89;  tin,  60.01;  platinum,  0.96;  gold,  4.14. 

AMMONIA  FERROUS  SULPHATE. 
Ammonia  ferrous  sulphate  is  made  by  the  dissolu- 
tion, in  an  extremely  small  quantity  of  water,  of 
60  parts  Ammonium-sulphate, 
139  parts  Ferrous  sulphide. 


10  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

The  solution  is  heated  to  140  degrees  Fahrenheit, 
then  poured  into  a  porcelain  dish,  to  which  a  few 
drops  of  sulphuric  acid  are  added,  the  mass  being 
stirred  until  cool.  The  deposition  of  a  pale-t>lue  crys- 
talline meal  ensues.  This  is  dried  24  hours  afterward 
in  a  funnel,  the  tube  of  which  is  to  be  closed  by  a  tuft 
of  cotton. 

ANNEALING    STEEL. 

The  pieces  of  steel  to  be  annealed  are  heated  very 
slowly,  and  when  at  a  low,  red  heat  they  are  placed 
between  two  dry  boards  and  then  screwed  up  tight  in 
a  vise.  The  steel  burns  its  way  into  the  boards,  and 
as  they  come  together  around  it  an  air-tight  charcoal 
bed  is  formed.  On  this  cooling  the  steel  is  found  thor- 
oughly annealed.  Another  method  of  annealing  steel 
is  to  heat  same  to  a  dull  red  heat,  cover  it  with  dry, 
warm  sand,  and  leave  it  to  cool  slowly.  It  may  also 
be  heated  and  covered  up  in  a  forge  fire  and  left  there 
until  the  fire  is  out. 

A  third  method  is  to  heat  the  steel  red  hot  until 
evenly  heated,  then  removing  it  from  the  fire  to  some 
dark  place  and  let  it  cool  until  the  dull  red  can  be  no 
longer  seen  in  the  darkness.  The  steel  is  then  cooled 
in  cold  water. 

ANTI-FRICTION  COMPOSITION. 

An  anti-friction  composition,  used  with  great  suc- 
cess in  Bavaria,  instead  of  oil,  tallow,  etc.,  is  thus 
made:  lO1/^  parts  of  lard  are  melted  with  2  parts  of 
pulverized  plumbago;  the  lard  is  melted,  the  plumbago 
mixed  in  slowly,  stirred  well,  and  the  mixture  applied 
cold. 

ANTIMONOID. 

The  welding  powder  named  antimonoid  consists  of 
4  parts  of  iron  turnings,  3  parts  of  borax,  2  parts  of 
borate  of  iron,  and  1  part  of  water. 

ANTIMONY    COLORING    ON    BRASS. 
To  give  the  color  of  antimony  on  brass,  %  an  ounce 
of  cream  of  tartar  is  to  be  dissolved  in  1  pound  of  hot 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  11 

water,  to  which  is  added  2  ounces  pulverized  metal- 
lic antimony  and  2  ounces  hydro-chloric  acid.  This 
fluid  is  to  be  heated  to  the  boiling  point  and  the  brass 
objects  plunged  therein.  They  then  acquire  a  lustrous 
color  of  great  beauty,  the  first  tint  to  appear  being  a 
gold-yellow  and  the  second  color  a  copper-red,  the 
third  color  appearing  is  a  blue-violet  and  the  fourth  is 
a  blue-green.  These  colors  will  not  be  affected  by 
exposure  to  the  atmosphere. 

ARGENTIC  OXIDE. 

Argentic  oxide  is  precipitated  as  a  black  powder 
from  a  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver  by  ammonia. 

ASHBERRY  METAL. 

Ashberry  metal  is  an  alloy  made  of 
80  parts  Tin, 

14  parts  Antimony, 
2  parts  Copper, 

2  parts  Nickel, 
1  part  Zinc, 

1  part  Aluminum. 
It  can  also  be  made  of 

79  parts  Tin, 

15  parts  Antimony, 

3  parts  Copper, 

2  parts  Zinc, 
1  part  Nickel. 

BABBITT'S  ANTI-ATTRITION  METAL. 

This  well-known  bearing  metal  is  made  by  melting 
separately  8  parts  of  regulus  of  antimony,  12  parts  of 
Banca  tin  and  4  parts  of  copper,  and  after  fusing 
same  adding  12  parts  of  tin.  The  antimony  is  added 
to  the  first  portion  of  tin,  and  after  the  melting  pot  is 
taken  away  .from  the  fire,  and  before  the  solution  is 
poured  into  the  mold,  the  copper  is  introduced.  Oxi- 
dation is  provided  against  by  a  surface  coating  of 
powdered  charcoal.  The  lining  metal  consists  of  this 
hardening  fused  with  twice  its  weight  of  tin,  thus 


12  MANUAL  OP  RECEIPTS. 

making  it  a  compound  88  9-10  parts  tin,  7  4-10  parts 
antimony  and  3  7-10  parts  copper.  The  bearing  it  is 
designed  to  line  is  cast  with  a  shallow  recess  for  the 
reception  of  the  Babbitt  metal.  The  part  to  be  tinned 
is  to  be  washed  with  alcohol  and  powdered  with  sal- 
ammoniac,  and  those  surfaces  which  are  not  thus 
lined  are  covered  with  a  clay  wash.  Warmth  for  the 
volatilization  of  a  portion  of  the  sal-ammoniac  is  then 
introduced,  and  the  substance  tinned.  The  lining  is 
next  cast  in  between  a  form  which  takes  the  place  of 
the  journal  and  the  bearing. 

(2)  There  are  many  compositions  made  and  sold 
tinder  the  name  of  Babbitt  metal.  One  of  the  best  is 
copper  1  part,  tin  6  parts,  antimony  2  parts  by  weight; 
melt  the  copper  in  a  crucible,  add  gradually  one-half 
of  the  tin,  then  the  antimony,  and  then  the  rest  of  the 
tin.  Let  the  temperature  gradually  fall  as  the  tin 
is  added,  and  pour  into  bar  molds  of  iron. 

BATTERY. 

For  a  battery  for  plating  small  articles,  take  a 
cylindrical  vessel  and  put  it  into  another  smaller 
vessel  made  of  porous  porcelain;  fill  the  Inner  one 
with  diluted  sulphuric  acid  and  the  space  between 
the  two  with  sulphate  of  copper,  if  you  desire  to  plate 
an  article  with  copper;  if  not,  a  solution  of  salt  of 
gold,  silver,  etc.,  according  to  what  you  wish  it  to  be. 
Put  a  slip  of  zinc  in  the  sulphuric  acid  and  attach  a 
copper  wire  to  it  and  the  other  end  to  the  article  you 
wish  to  plate  and  immerse  that  in  the  first  solution. 
If  you  want  the  metal  to  be  very  thick  you  must  put 
a  few  solid  crystals  of  the  metal  in  the  solution; 
where  you  do  not.  want  it  to  come  in  contact,  you 
must  touch  it  with  a  little  grease. 

BELGIAN   POLISHING   POWDER. 

Belgian  polishing  powder  for  polishing  silver  is 
made  of  117  parts  of  elutriated  pipe  clay,  62  parta  of 
white  lead,  23  parts  of  white  magnesia,  23  parts  of 
jewelers'  rouge  and  250  parts  of  whiting. 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  13 

BELL  METAL. 

A  good  alloy  for  bell  metal  consists  of  78  per  cent, 
copper  and  22  per  cent.  tin.  A  good  bell  metal  has  a 
peculiarly  grayish  white  color  that  is  to  be  readily  dis- 
tinguished from  that  of  either  ordinary  bronze  or 
statuary  bronze.  It  is  hard,  sonorous  and  brittle  and 
shows  a  fine  grained  fracture.  If  you  cool  it  rapidly 
after  it  has  been  heated  red,  it  becomes  soft,  but  will 
recover  its  hardness  if  re-heated  and  cooled  very 
slowly.  The  larger  the  proportion  of  copper  in  the 
alloy  the  deeper  and  graver  the  tone  of  the  bell,  while 
sharper  tones  are  caused  by  the  addition  of  zinc,  iron 
or  tin  to  the  alloy. 

BENDING  TIN  TUBES. 

The  way  to  bend  tin,  brass,  or  copper  tubes  is  as 
follows:  Make  the  tube  with  a  lap  seam,  solder  it, 
and  solder  up  one  end.  Fill  the  tube  with  melted 
rosin  and  let  it  get  cold.  With  a  little  care  it  can  then 
be  bent  nicely  in  any  shape  by  keeping  the  seam  on 
the  inside  of  the  bend.  Tubes  have  been  bent  up  to 
%  Inch. 

BIDDERY  METAL. 
Biddery  metal  is  made  of 

84  3-10  parts  Zinc, 
11  4-10  parts  Copper, 

2  9-10  parts  Lead, 
1  4-10  parts  Tin, 

or  from 
93  4-10  parts  Zinc, 

3  1-10  parts  Lead, 

3  5-10  parts  Copper. 

BIRMINGHAM  BRITANNIA  METAL. 

Birmingham  Sheet  Britannia  metal  is  composed  of 
1  5-10  parts  Copper, 
7  8-10  parts  Antimony, 
90  6-10  parts  Tin. 


14  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

Birmingham  Cast  Britannia  metal  is  composed  of 

9-100  parts  Copper, 
9  2-10  parts  Antimony, 
90  71-100  parts  Tin. 

BISMUTH  NITRATE. 

Bismuth  nitrate  is  obtained  by  the  dissolution  of 
bismuth  in  nitric  acid. 

BLACKENING  COPPER. 

A  good  black  finish  to  copper  it  given  by  putting 
same  in  a  pickle  consisting  of  4  parts  of  concentrated 
hydro-chloric  acid,  1  part  sulphuric  acid  (of  66  de- 
grees Be),  and  2  parts  arsenic  acid  and  24  of  water. 
This  pickle  is  to  be  heated  before  using. 

BLACKENING  SHEET  IRON. 

The  simplest  method  to  blacken  iron  is  to  heat  it 
with  oil,  especially  linseed.  The  objects  are  first 
rubbed  or  painted  with  oil  and  then  heated  to  such 
an  extent  that  the  oil  is  burned  off.  The  surface 
produced  in  this  manner  is  coal  black,  and  gives  the 
objects  a  black  coloring,  which  will  withstand  the 
highest  temperature.  After  the  application  is  thor- 
oughly dried,  the  objects  can  be  rubbed  with  ben- 
zine or  a  solution  of  soda.  In  order  to  produce  a 
black  asphalte  lac  for  iron,  melt  8  pounds  of  asphalte 
in  an  iron  kettle,  gradually  adding  12  pints  of  cooked 
linseed  oil,  1  pound  of  litharge,  and  %  pound  of  sul- 
phate of  zinc.  The  whole  mixture  should  be  allowed 
to  boil  three  hours.  Finally,  1%  pounds  black  umber 
is  to  be  added,  and  the  mixture  carefully  boiled  for 
two  hours  longer.  It  is  advisable  previous  to  using 
this  mixture  to  thin  it  by  the  addition  of  oil  of  tur- 
pentine. 

BLACK— IRON. 

Iron  black  is  a  finely  divided  antimony  powder, 
which  is  precipitated  from  a  solution  of  antimony 
by  zinc. 


(MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  lo 

BLACKING-HARNESS. 

Some  good  receipts  for  harness  blacking  are  made 
as  follows: 

1.  Treacle,  y2  pound;  lampblack,  1  ounce;  yeast,  a 
spoonful;  sugar  candy,  olive  oil,  gum  tragacanth  and 
isinglass  each  1  ounce;  and  a  cow's  gall.    Mix  with 
2  pints  of  stale  beer  and  let  it  stand  before  the  fire 
one  hour. 

2.  Treacle,  8  parts;  lampblack,  1  part;  sweet  oil, 
gum  arabic,  1;  isinglass,  1;  water,  32.    Apply  heat  to 
the  whole.    When  cold  add  1  ounce  of  spirits  of  wine 
and  apply  with  a  sponge.    If  it  should  get  hard,  place 
the  bottle  in  warm  water  a  short  time. 

BLACKING   SHEET  ZINC. 

For  blacking  sheet  zinc  for  the  purpose  of  drawing 
lines,  so  that  the  blacking  will  not  rub  off,  also 
answers  for  cast-iron,  wrought-iron  and  steel.  To 
4  ounces  of  clear  water  add  1  onnce  of  powdered 
sulphate  of  copper,  then  ^  teaspoonful  of  nitric  acid. 
Before  applying  this  solution,  be  sure  and  brighten 
the  surface  which  is  to  be  coated.  When  using,  damp- 
en a  clean  part  of  waste,  passing  it  over  the  work. 
When  the  surface  is  large  use  different  parts  of  the 
dampened  waste,  so  that  the  surface  will  have  the 
same  color.  Generally  the  waste  turns  black  after 
being  drawn  across  the  work,  and  also  produces  black 
streaks  on  the  surface  coats.  This  applies  only  to 
cast-iron,  wrought-iron  and  steel.  These  metals  when 
coated  have  the  appearance  of  copper;  but  with  zinc 
the  surface  is  black.  Rub  the  surface  dry,  after 
aplying  with  clean  waste. 

BLACKING— STOVE. 

The  following  formula  is  said  to  make  an  excellent 
stove  blacking:  Two  parts  copperas,  1  part  bone- 
black,  1  part  black  lead,  mixed  to  consistency  of 
cream  with  water.  Make  two  applications  of  the 
polish  to  the  stove. 

(2)  A  quick-drying  stove  blacking  with  a  good  gloss 
is  made  thusly:  Take  2  pounds  plumbago,  5  gills 


10  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

Japan  dryer  of  furniture  varnish,  1  gill  asphaltum 
varnish  and  thin  down  for  use  with  gasoline.  Lamp- 
black may  be  substituted  for  asphaltum  if  desired,  a 
trial  of  which  will  determine  the  quantity.  Mix  only 
as  desired  for  immediate  use. 

(3)  Several  valuable  receipts  for  stove  blacking  are 
given  herewith: 

(1)  To  1  gallon  benzine  add  6  ounces  pulverized 
rosin,  3  ounces  pulverized  borax,  4  ounces  pulverized 
alum,  1  pound  fine  ground  black  lead,  and  1  to  2 
ounces  lampblack.  Apply  to  the  stove  with  a  soft 
brush.  For  bright  goods  omit  the  blacks.  (2)  Re- 
duce cheap  Japan  to  the  thickness  of  cream  and  apply 
to  all  parts  of  the  stove  with  a  brush,  covering  as 
much  space  as  can  be  polished  before  it  sets;  then 
sprinkle  on  best  quality  of  powdered  lead,  rub  briskly 
with  a  hard  brush  and  polish  with  a  dry  brush. 

(3)  To  1  gallon  gasoline  or  naphtha  add  ti  ounces 
pulverized  resin,  1  pound  pulverized  lead,  3  ounces 
lampblack;  put  in  a  tight  can  and  shake  thoroughly; 
pour    out    in    quantities    for    immediate    use    only. 

(4)  To  1  gallon  benzine  add  ^  pound  pulverized  resin, 
1  pound  fine  ground  lead,  %  ounce  borax,  and  to  give 
luster  add  2  ounces  lampblack.    In  mixing  stove  pol- 
ish for  sample  stoves  gasoline  instead  of  benzine  is 
recommended,  as  the  quality  is  much  improved  by 
•its  use,  and  for  stoves  in  use  turpentine  is  recom- 
mended, as  it  will  not  give  any  unpleasant  odor  when 
the  stove  is  in  use. 

BLUE  COLOR  FOR  IRON  AND  STEEL. 
To  give  iron  and  steel  a  bluish  color  cleanse  the 
article  thoroughly  with  lime  and  then  brush  it  over 
with  a  mixture  composed  of  the  following  ingredients: 
16  parts  Hydro-chloric  Acid, 
8  parts  Fuming  Nitric  Acid, 
8  parts  Butter  of  Antimony. 

Hydro-chloric  acid  is  to  be  added  drop  by  drop  very 
slowly,  in  order  to  avoid  heating.  The  mixture  Is  to 
be  applied  to  the  steel  with  a  cloth;  the  steel  is  then 
rubbed  with  green  young  oak  wood  until  the  blue 
color  desired  is  produced. 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  17 

BLUE  PRINT  PROCESS. 

The  process  is  a  simple  one,  requiring  for  its  manip- 
ulation to  obtain  best  results,  prepared,  or  helio- 
graphic  paper,  a  copying  frame,  glass  and  cushion, 
which  may  be  obtained  of  dealers  in  artists'  materials. 
In  use  the  frame  is  laid  on  the  glass  side,  the  back 
and  cushion  removed.  The  tracing  or  drawing  (which 
has  been  made  with  deep  black  India  ink  upon  tracing 
paper  or  cloth)  is  laid  on  the  glass  face  downward, 
the  prepared  paper  placed  over  it,  the  prepared  side 
next  to  the  tracing,  the  cushion  placed  over  this  and 
the  back  of  the  frame  closed.  Care  must  be  used  to 
have  the  tracing,  the  prepared  paper  and  the  cushion 
perfectly  smooth,  so  as  to  insure  the  perfect  contact 
of  the  tracing  and  paper.  Reverse  the  frame  and  ex- 
pose to  the  light  for  from  six  minutes  to  an  hour, 
according  to  the  degree  of  light.  Remove  the  pre- 
pared paper  and  drench  in  clear  water  ten  minutes  or 
more,  and  hang  by  one  edge  to  dry.  The  prepared 
paper  requires  to  be  entirely  shielded  from  daylight 
before  being  used  and  while  putting  it  into  the  frame. 
Where  all  the  regular  materials  are  not  at  hand  the 
cushion  may  be  a  smoothly-folded  blanket  placed 
upon  a  board,  and  on  this  laid  successively  the  pre- 
pared paper,  the  tracing  and  the  plate  glass. 

BLUE  PRINTS. 

The  following  two  formulas  for  making  blue  prints 
are  in  general  use.    They  both  make  good  prints,  but 
the  one  marked  No.  2  gives  the  clearer  print. 
No.  1— 

1  oz.  of  Red  Potash, 

1  oz.  of  Citrate  Iron  of  Ammonium, 

1  pint  of  Water. 
No.  2— 

1  oz.  of  Red  Potash,  / 

1^4  oz.  of  Citrate  Iron  of  Ammonium, 

1%  pints  of  Water. 

BLUING  SHEET-STEEL. 
To  give  small  articles  of  sheet-steel  a  blue  appear- 


18  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

ance  dip  them  in  a  fluid  alloy  consisting  of  25  parts  of 
lead  and  1  part  of  tin,  melted  at  the  requisite  degree 
of  heat  for  bluing.  This  dipping  may  also  be  made 
in  a  sand  bath  and  maintained  at  the  requisite  tem- 
perature, of  4.78  degrees  Fahrenheit  for  the  pale  blue 
and  5.72  degrees  Fahrenheit  for  dark  blue. 

BLUING   STEEL. 

Steel  is  "blued"  by  heating  it  evenly  in  an  ash  bath 
— that  is,  a  quantity  of  sand  is  spread  over  a  sheet  of 
boiler  iron  and  heated  up  to  about  the  boiling  point 
of  oil,  say  600  degrees.  If  a  little  oil  is  rubbed  over 
the  surfaces  with  a  piece  of  waste  the  color  will  bo 
better.  All  articles  to  be  colored  should  be  polished. 

BLUING  STEEL  OR  IRON. 

To  put  a  durable  blue  on  iron  or  steel  without  heat, 
apply  nitric  acid  and  let  it  eat  into  the  iron  a  little, 
then  the  metal  will  be  covered  with  a  fine  film  of 
oxide.  Clean,  oil  and  varnish. 

BRASS— ANTIQUE. 

To  produce  the  appearance  of  antique  brass,  dis- 
solve 1  ounce  sal-ammoniac,  3  ounces  cream  of  tartar, 
and  6  ounces  common  salt  in  1  pint  hot  water;  then 
add  2  ounces  nitrate  of  copper  dissolved  in  a  half 
pint  of  water;  mix  well,  and  apply  it  repeatedly  to 
the  article  by  means  of  a  brush. 

BRASS— BRISTOL. 

Bristol  brass  is  composed  of  either 
75  5-10  parts  Copper, 
24  5-10  parts  Zinc, 

or 

67  2-10  parts  Copper, 
328-10  parts  Zinc, 

or 

60  8-10  parts  Copper, 
39  2-10  parts  Zinc. 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  19 

BRASSES  FOR  SIDE-RODS. 

Brasses  for  side  rods  are  made  of 

1  part  Tin, 

6  parts  Copper, 

and  to  100  pounds  of  this  mixture  add  one-half  part 
each  of  zinc  and  lead. 

BRASS  PIPE  FINISH. 

Take  very  finest  flour  of  emery  paper  and  oil,  bring- 
ing the  surface  to  a  very  smooth  and  even  finish  first. 
Rub  well  with  rotten  stone  and  oil  on  a  piece  of  soft 
leather  and  finish  with  dry  whiting  and  a  rag.  Then, 
if  desired  to  lacquer,  see  that  every  part  is  free  from 
oil  and  very  clean.  Take  shellac  varnish,  thin  with 
95  per  cent,  alcohol,  and  let  it  stand  a  few  hours  to 
settle.  Afterward  apply  the  lacquer  with  a  camel's 
hair  brush,  keeping  the  surface  of  the  brass  work 
very  warm  all  the  time. 

BRASS-RED. 

Red  brass  is  composed  of 
17  parts  Tin, 
81  parts  Copper, 
2  parts  Cupro-manganese, 

or  from 
14  parts  Tin, 
85  parts  Copper, 
1  part  Cupro-manganese. 

BRASS-TEST  FOR. 

To  discover  the  presence  of  lead  in  brass  add  a  few 
drops  of  sulphuric  acid  to  a  solution  of  the  brass  in 
nitric  acid.  The  volume  of  the  resultant  precipitation 
will  determine  the  quantity  of  lead.  If  there  is  a 
large  quantity  of  lead  in  the  brass  it  becomes  brittle. 

BRIGHTENING  TINWARE. 

To  brighten  up  shop-worm  tin  ware  and  make  it 
look  like  new,  dip  a  soft  cloth  in  plaster-of-paris  and 
rub  the  ware.  Putz  pomade  is  too  expensive  and  too 


20  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

much  trouble  to  get  off.    Almost  all  the  other  polishes 
contain  more  or  less  acid. 

BRILLIANT  BLACK  FOR  IRON  AND  STEEL. 

To  produce  a  brilliant  black  upon  iron  and  steel, 
apply  with  a  fine  hair  brush  a  mixture  of  turpentine 
and  sulphur  which  has  been  boiled  together. 

BRITANNIA    METAL. 

English  Britannia  metal  is  composed  of 
1624-100  parts  Antimony, 

1  84-100  parts  Copper, 
81    9-10  parts  Tin. 
14  6-100  parts  Copper, 

7  81-100  parts  Antimony, 
90  62-100  parts  Tin. 

3  1-10  parts  Copper, 

5-10  part  Zinc, 
63-10  parts  Antimony, 
90  1-10  parts  Tin. 
3  6-100  parts  Zinc, 

8  1-100  parts  Copper, 

9  66-100  parts  Antimony, 
85  4-10  parts  Tin. 

BRONZE-ANCIENT. 
Copper  100  parts,  tin  7  parts,  lead  7  parts. 

BRONZE-BROWN     FIRE-PROOF,     ON     COPPER 
AND  BRASS. 

A  brown  fire-proof  bronze  for  copper  or  brass  is 
obtained  by  the  dissolution  of  1 1-12  drachms  each  of 
finely  powdered  sal-ammoniac  and  verdigris  in  one 
pint  of  water,  the  solution  being  allowed  to  stand 
covered  3  to  4  hours,  at  which  time  iy2  additional 
pints  of  water  are  added.  When  bronzing  a  copper 
article,  which  must  first  be  cleaned  perfectly,  it  is  to 
be  held  over  a  coal  fire  and  heated  to  a  uniform  heat 
and  color.  Then  cast  the  application  of  the  solution, 
followed  by  careful  drying.  Tin  copper  is  not  to  be 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  21 

heated  sufficiently  to  melt  the  tin.  Five  or  six  such 
treatments  of  copper  gives  it  a  brass  color,  and  from 
six  to  ten  applications  gives  it  a  beautiful  yellow 
tint.  If  a  color  shading  from  yellow  into  brown  is  de- 
sired for  your  article  it  must  not  be  hot  when  the 
mixture  is  applied.  This  operation  is  to  be  repeated 
twenty  to  twenty-five  times  in  order  to  give  a  light 
brown  color. 

BRONZE— CHEAP. 

A  good,  cheap  bronze  for  use  on  the  common  kind 
of  tea-trays  is  made  by  making  into  a  paste  with  oil, 
and  melting  together  4  ounces  borax,  4  ounces  salt- 
peter, 2  drachms  corrosive  sublimate,  8  ounces  flowers 
of  zinc  and  16  ounces  of  verdigris. 

BRONZE-COPPER. 

A  copper  bronze  is  secured  by  coating  the  metal 
(either  iron  or  zinc)  with  a  brown  varnish  or  lacquer 
and  dusting  copper-dust  upon  it. 

BRONZE  FOR  CASTINGS. 

A  good  and  permanent  bronze  can  be  made  by  melt- 
ing together  96  parts  copper  and  4  parts  tin.  The 
following  is  a  good  bronzing  liquid:  Sal-ammoniac  1 
drachm,  oxalic  acid  15  grains,  vinegar  1  pint;  mix. 
After  well  cleaning  the  article  to  be  bronzed,  warm 
it  gently  and  brush  it  over  with  the  liquid,  using  only 
a  small  quantity  at  a  time.  When  rubbed  dry  repeat 
the  application  until  the  desired  tint  is  obtained. 

BRONZE  FOR  CAST  IRON. 

To  bronze  cast  iron,  mix  equal  parts  of  petroleum 
oil  and  French  yellow,  to  the  consistency  of  paint, 
and  apply  hot. 

BRONZE  FOR  GILDING. 

A  good  bronze  for  gilding  must  be  fusible  at  a  low 
temperature  and  must  also  be  compact  and  close 
grained.  A  good  alloy  being  copper,  82  25-100  parts; 
zinc,  17  5-10  parts,  and  tin,  25-100  parts. 

(2)    Copper.  14  parts;  zinc,  6  parts;  tin,  4  parts. 


22  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

BRONZE  FOR  GUN  BARBELS. 

A  good  receipt  for  bronzing  gun  barrels  is:  Aqua 
fortis  and  sweet  spirits  of  nitre  each  half  an  ounce; 
sulphate  of  copper,  2  ounces;  water,  30  ounces;  tinc- 
ture of  muriate  of  iron,  1  ounce.  Mix  and  apply. 

BRONZE  FOR  IRON  OR  BRASS. 

Articles  of  iron  or  brass  may  be  bronzed  by  dipping 
them  into  melted  sulphur  mixed  with  lampblack. 
The  surface,  after  being  drained  off,  will  take  a  beau- 
tiful polish,  and  presents  the  appearance  of  oxidized 
bronze. 

BRONZE  FOR  MEDALS,  SMALL  CASTINGS,  ETC. 
Copper,  95  parts;  tin,  4  parts.    Melt  together. 
BRONZE  FOR  SMALL  CASTINGS. 

A  fine  bronze  for  small  castings  is  composed  of 
94  12-100  parts  of  copper  and  5  88-100  parts  tin. 

BRONZE— GOLD. 

A  very  handsome  gold  bronze  alloy  is  made  of 
90  5-10  parts  copper,  6  5-10  parts  tin,  3  parts  zinc. 
This  alloy  should  not  be  exposed  to  water,  as  it  will 
then  lose  its  gold  color. 

BRONZE-GREEN   FOR  BRASS. 

A  green  bronze  for  brass  is  obtained  by  mixing 
1  part  of  green  vitriol,  1  part  of  gum  arabic,  1  part  of 
sal-ammoniac,  1  part  of  red  umber,  1  part  of  mineral 
green,  80  parts  of  strong  vinegar  and  4  parts  of  Avigi- 
non  berries.  Cleanse  the  articles  to  be  bronzed  with 
diluted  nitric  acid,  then  rinse  them  with  water  and 
apply  the  fluid  with  a  brush.  If  the  color  is  not  then 
satisfactorily  dark  the  article  is  to  be  heated  until 
too  warm  to  be  held  in  the  hand,  and  then  given  a 
coat  of  spirit  of  wine  mixed  with  a  little  lampblack. 
Finish  the  work  by  applying  a  coat  of  spirit  of  var- 
nish Another  green  bronze  for  brass  is  obtained  by 
adding  to  a  solution  of  8  drachms  of  copper  in  1  ounce 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  23 

Of  strong  nitric  acid,  3%  drachms  sal-ammoniac,  6% 
drachms  aqua-ammonia  and  10%  ounces  vinegar. 
This  liquid  is  to  be  placed  in  a  bottle  not  tightly 
corked,  and  allowed  to  stand  in  a  warm  place  for 
several  days.  After  it  has  been  applied  to  any  object 
it  should  be  dried  by  exposure  to  heat,  and  when  dry 
a  coat  of  linseed  oil  varnish  should  be  applied,  which 
is  also  dried  by  heat. 

BRONZE— GREEN  FOR  TIN. 

A  green  bronze  for  tin,  zinc  and  lead  can  be  secured 
by  applying  lacquer  of  a  dull  luster,  or  green  varnish. 
The  best  green  for  bronze  is  made  by  a  mixture  of 
chrome  yellow  with  Frankfort  black. 

BRONZE— LIQUID. 

An  admirable  bronze  liquid  is  made  by  the  dissolu- 
tion of  %  ounce  of  alum,  %  ounce  of  arsenic  and  1 
ounce  of  sal-ammoniac  in  1  pint  of  strong  vinegar. 

BRONZE-4METAL. 

Copper,  27y2  parts;  zinc,  12  parts;  tin,  8  parts.  Melt 
together. 

BRONZE— ORMOLU. 

The  composition  of  ormolu  bronze  is  58  3-10  parts 
copper,  25  3-10  parts  zinc  and  16  7-10  parts  tin. 

BRONZE-PATINA  ON  TIN. 

A  bronze  patina  on  tin  is  obtained  by  brushing  the 
article  with  a  solution  of  1%  ounces  sulphate  of  cop- 
per, 1%  ounces  ferrous  sulphate  in  1  quart  of  water, 
then  wetting  the  dried  object  with  a  solution  of  3%. 
ounces  of  verdigris  in  10%  ounces  of  vinegar.  After 
drying,  the  object  is  to  be  polished  with  a  soft  brush 
rubbed  upon  wax  and  some  iron  rust.  This  coating 
should  be  protected  by  lacquer. 

BRONZE-PERUVIAN. 

The  bronzes  that  Pizarro  found  in  Peru,  and  which 
excited  the  admiration  of  Europe  when  introduced, 


24  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

were  composed  of  95  parts  copper,  4  5-10  parts  tin,  3-10 
parts  iron  and  2-10  parts  lead. 

BRONZE-PHOSPHOR. 

This  substance,  which  is  largely  used  in  place  of 
bronze  and  gun  metal  compositions,  for  bearings, 
wire,  rope,  gearing,  etc.,  is  a  copper-tin  alloy,  fluxed 
by  the  introduction  of  a  quantity  of  phosphor.  The 
addition  of  this  latter  is  generally  made  in  the  form 
of  phosphide  and  tin  or  phosphide  and  copper. 

BRONZE— STATUARY. 

The  bronze  for  use  in  statuary  must  become  thinly 
fluid.  It  must  also  acquire  a  beautiful  green  color, 
technically  known  as  patina,  on  brief  exposure  to  the 
atmosphere.  As  practically  the  sole  use  of  this  bronze 
is  for  artistic  purposes,  the  color  is  very  important. 
The  bronze  at  present  most  in  rogue  for  statuary  con- 
sists of  86  6-10  per  cent,  of  copper,  6  6-10  per  cent, 
tin,  3  3-10  per  cent,  lead  and  3  3-10  per  cent.  zinc. 

BRONZE— SUN. 

Sun  bronze  is  an  alloy  composed  of  60  parts  cobalt 
or  40  parts  cobalt,  10  parts  aluminum,  40  or  30  parts 
copper. 

BRONZE— TUCKER. 

To  obtain  Tucker  bronze,  grease  polished  iron  and 
expose  it  for  from  two  to  five  minutes  to  the  action 
of  vapors  arising  from  a  bath  of  equal  parts  of  con- 
centrated hydro-chlorate  and  nitric  acid.  Next  coat 
the  iron  with  vaseline  and  heat  until  the  decomposi- 
tion of  the  latter  (or  vaseline)  commences. 

BRONZING  BRASS  ARTICLES. 

To  bronze  small  brass  articles,  clean  same  well  to 
get  rid  of  grease,  etc.,  and  apply,  with  a  brush,  a  mix- 
ture consisting  of 

3  parts  Oxide  of  Iron, 
3  parts  White  Arsenic, 
36  parts  Hydro-chloric  Acid. 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  25 

The  process  is  finished  by  oiling  well,  after  which 
the  article  may  be  lacquered  or  varnished. 

BRONZING  CAST-IRON. 

To  bronze  cast-iron  the  first  step  is  to  clean  the  sur- 
face and  then  coat  it  uniformly  with  a  layer  of  olive 
oil  (a  low  grade  will  answer),  then  heat  it  without, 
however,  raising  the  temperature  to  the  burning 
point  of  the  oil.  This  will  cause  the  cast-iron,  at  the 
minute  the  decomposition  of  the  oil  is  accomplished, 
to  absorb  oxygen  and  will  cause  the  formation  of  a 
brown  surface  of  oxide,  whose  adherence  is  very  firm. 
It  will  acquire  a  good  polish,  thus  giving  the  surface 
of  the  cast-iron  a  bronze-like  appearance. 

BRONZING  COPPER. 

A  good  bronze  for  copper  is  made  by  the  dissolu- 
tion of 

30  parts  Hydro-chlorate  Ammonium, 

10  parts  Cream  of  Tartar, 

10  parts  Common  Salt, 

10  parts  Acetate  of  Copper, 
100  parts  Acetate  Acid, 

moderately  concentrated  or  in  200  parts  of  strong 
vinegar;  a  little  water  is  to  be  added  to  this.  When 
the  mixture  has  become  homogeneous  the  copper  ob- 
ject is  daubed  with  it  and  allowed  to  dry  at  an  ordi- 
nary temperature  at  from  24  to  48  hours.  When  this 
period  of  time  has  elapsed  the  copper  object  will  be 
found  covered  with  verdigris,  presenting  a  variety 
of  tints.  The  whole,  especially  the  reliefs,  are  to  be 
brushed  with  a  wax  brush,  and  if  necessary  the  high 
reliefs  should  be  set  off  with  chrome  yellow  or  hem- 
atite. If  you  wish  to  deepen  the  color  of  the  parts 
on  which  the  bronzing  is,  lead  carbonate  of  ammonia 
may  be  used.  Light  touches  of  ammonia  will  give  a 
bluish  tint  to  the  green  portions.  If  you  wish  to  give 
the  copper  a  bluish-green  bronze,  apply  to  its  surface 
a  fluid  obtained  by  warm  digestion  of  cinnabar  with 
a  solution  of  sodium  sulphide,  to  which  an  addition 
of  caustic  lime  has  been  made. 


2G  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

BRONZING  COPPER  AND  BRASS. 

To  bronze  copper  and  brass  neutralize  20  parts  of 
ammonia  with  vinegar  and  compound  the  solution 
with  6  parts  sal-ammoniac  and  10  parts  verdigris. 
First  rid  your  object  of  grease,  then  brush  with  the 
solution,  the  operation  being  repeated  until  the  shade 
of  color  wanted  is  produced.  After  this  has  been 
secured  pour  off  the  solution  and  recleanse  by  hot 
water.  Repeat  the  rinsing  twice.  The  best  drier  for 
articles  is  sawdust. 

BRONZING— GREEN. 

A  fine  antique  green  bronze  is  obtained  by  repeated 
alternate  applications  to  brass  or  copper  of  diluted 
acetic  acid  and  exposure  to  the  fumes  of  ammonia. 
A  more  rapid  method  for  giving  this  appearance  is 
found  in  the  immersion  of  the  articles  in  a  solution 
of  1  part  of  per-chloride  of  iron  in  2  parts  of  water. 
The  longer  the  immersion  the  darker  the  shade.  A 
second  method  consists  in  boiling  the  articles  in  a 
strong  solution  of  nitrate  of  copper.  A  third  method 
is  the  immersion  of  2  ounces  of  hypo-sulphate  of 
sodium  and  2  ounces  of  nitrate  of  iron  in  1  pint  of 
water. 

BRONZING  IRON. 

Iron  articles  are  easily  coppered  or  brassed  by  dip- 
ping in  copper  solutions,  or  else  coppered  or  brassed 
by  the  galvanic  method;  these  coatings  also  scale  off 
after  a  short  time,  especially  if  the  iron  surface  was 
not  thoroughly  cleaned,  when  exposed  to  the  influence 
of  moist  air.  By  the  following  process  it  is  easy  to 
provide  iron  articles  with  a  handsome  bronze-colored 
protoxide  coating;  it  resists  the  influence  of  humidity 
pretty  well,  and  besides  this,  the  operator  has  it  in 
his  power  to  produce  any  desired  bronze  color  in  a 
simple  manner. 

The  cleansed  and  scoured  articles  are  exposed  to 
the  vapors  of  a  heated  mixture  of  concentrated  hydro- 
chloric and  nitric  acids  (1  and  1)  for  from  two  to  five 


MANUAL  OP  RECEIPTS.  2? 

minutes;  and  then,  without  unnecessarily  touching 
them,  heated  to  a  temperature  of  300  to  350  degrees. 
The  heating  is  continued  until  the  bronze  color  be- 
comes visible  upon  the  articles.  After  they  have  been 
cooled,  they  are  tubbed  over  with  petroleum  jelly,  and 
again  heated  until  the  jelly  begins  to  decompose. 
After  cooling,  the  article  is  anew  rubbed  over  with 
petroleum  jelly.  If  now  the  vapors  from  a  mixture 
of  concentrated  hydrochloric  and  nitric  acids  are  per- 
mitted to  operate  upon  the  iron  article,  light  red- 
brown  tones  are  obtained.  However,  if  acetic  acid  is 
mixed  to  the  mentioned  two  acids,  and  the  vapors 
permitted  to  operate  upon  the  iron,  oxide  coatings  are 
obtained,  possessing  a  handsome  bronze  yellow  color. 
All  graduations  of  color  from  dark  red-brown  to  light 
red-brown  or  from  bronze-yellow  to  dark  brown-yel- 
low are  produced  by  varying  the  mixtures  of  the  acids. 
(2)  Iron  has  sometimes  to  be  bronzed  for  domestic 
use.  The  following  is  a  very  simple  way  of  obtain- 
ing a  good  bronze:  Mix  an  equal  quantity  of  butter 
of  antimony  and  oil  of  olives;  put  this  mixture  on  the 
iron  which  is  required  to  be  bronzed  with  a  brush,  the 
iron  having  been  previously  brightened  with  emery 
and  cloth,  and  leave  it  for  several  hours.  Then  rub 
with  wax  and  varnish  with  copal. 

BRONZING  IRON  OR  STEEL. 

To  secure  a  bronze-like  surface  on  iron  and  steel, 
and  one  impervious  to  oxidation,  first  clean  the  ob- 
ject, then  expose  for  two  or  three  minutes  to  the 
action  of -the  fumes  of  a  heated  mixture  of  nitric  and 
hydro-chlorate  acid  in  equal  proportions  at  a  tem- 
perature ranging  from  550  degrees  to  660  degrees 
Fahrenheit.  When  the  object  has  cooled  rub  it  with 
vaseline  and  then  heat  until  decomposition  of  the 
vaseline  commences.  Repeat  the  vaseline  treatment. 
Should  a  coloring  lighter  than  bronze  be  desired,  mix 
acetic  acid  with  the  other  acids.  In  making  this 
bronze  one  should  be  very  careful  both  in  handling 
and  preserving  these  acids. 


28  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

BRONZING  MEDALS. 

First  clean  the  medal,  then  apply  on  its  surface  a 
thin  paste  made  of  water  with  equal  parts  of  peroxide 
of  iron  and  plumbago,  with  a  small  proportion  of  clay. 
Heat  the  whole,  and  when  the  object  has  cooled, 
brush  vigorously  for  a  long  time  with  a  medium  stiff 
brush,  which  is  frequently  rubbed  upon  a  yellow 
waxen  black  and  afterwards  upon  the  mixture  of 
peroxide  of  iron  and  plumbago. 

BRONZING  TIN. 
To  bronze  tin,  prepare  two  solutions. 

(1)  1  part  of  Ferrous  Sulphate, 
1  part  of  Cupric  Sulphate, 

20  parts  of  Distilled  Water, 

(2)  4  parts  Verdigris, 
16  parts  Vinegar. 

The  article  to  be  bronzed  is  to  be  thoroughly 
cleansed  by  means  of  a  brush  dipped  in  a  fine  earth 
and  water,  and  after  it  is  dry  a  light  coat  of  the  first 
solution  is  to  be  applied  to  both  sides  by  means  of  a 
brush.  When  it  is  dry  the  article  looks  black;  then 
the  second  solution  is  to  be  applied  with  a  brush  until 
the  article  assumes  a  dark  copper-red  color.  Then 
allow  it  to  dry  for  one  hour,  and  polish  with  a  soft 
brush  and  finely  powdered  elutriated  blood-stone,  the 
surface  being  often  breathed  upon  in  order  to  secure 
adhesion  of  the  blood-stone.  Then  polish  it  with  the 
brush  which  is  from  time  to  time  drawn  over  the 
palm  of  the  hand.  The  bronzing  is  protected  against 
dampness  by  covering  with  a  very  thin  layer  of  gold 
lacquer. 

(2)  Tin  and  tin  alloys,  after  careful  cleansing  from 
oxide  and  grease,  are  handsomely  and  permanently 
bronzed  if  brushed  over  with  a  solution  of  1  part 
of  sulphate  of  copper  (blue-stone),  and  1  part  of  sul- 
phate of  iron  (copperas)  in  20  parts  of  water.  When 
this  has  dried,  the  surface  should  be  brushed  with  a 
solution  of  one  part  of  acetate  of  copper  (verdigris)  in 
acetic  acid. 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  29 

After  several  applications  and  dryings  of  the  last 
named,  the  surface  is  polished  with  a  soft  brush  and 
blood-stone  powder.  The  raised  portions  are  then 
rubbed  off  with  soft  leather  moistened  with  wax  and 
turpentine,  followed  by  a  rubbing  with  dry  leather. 

BRONZING  ZINC. 

Zinc,  which  is  to  be  bronzed,  should  be  given  an 
electro-deposition  of  brass,  which  is  then  dipped  into 
a  weak  solution  of  sulphate  of  copper  in  order  to 
impart  a  red  tint.  When  it  is  dry,  moisten  with  a 
cloth  immersed  in  hydro-sulphate  of  ammonia  or 
proto-chloride  of  copper  dissolved  in  hydro-chloric 
acid,  or  a  solution  of  polysulphide  of  potassium.  Dry 
again,  then  brush  the  surface  over  with  a  mixture  of 
peroxide  of  iron  and  plumbago,  varied  in  accordance 
with  the  tint  desired.  The  powder  will  adhere  more 
readily  if  the  brush  is  slightly  moistened  with  essence 
of  turpentine.  Rub  the  raised  portions  strongly  to 
uncover  the  brass,  then  give  a  coat  of  colorless  var- 
nish. Another  way  is  to  pickle  the  brass  or  copper 
article  with  diluted  nitric  acid,  then  coat  same  with  a 
paste  made  of  2  parts  graphite,  3  parts  peroxide  of 
iron  and  enough  spirits  of  wine.  Brush  off  this  coat- 
ing after  24  hours,  and  a  dark-brown  bronze  will 
appear.  If  a  lighter  bronze  is  desired,  the  brass  or 
copper  zinc  should  be  rubbed  with  a  soft  brush  dipped 
in  a  solution  of  1^  ounces  of  sal-ammoniac  and  3 
ounces  of  potassium  binoxalate  in  Sy2  to  5*4  pints  of 
vinegar. 

BROWNING  COPPER. 

To  give  copper  a  brown  color  scour  it  bright  with 
glass  paper,  heat  over  a  coal  fire  and  then  brush  over 
with  a  solution  consisting  of 

3  parts  Diluted  Acetic  Acid, 
7  parts  Sal-ammoniac, 

5  parts  Crystallized  Acetate  of  Copper, 
85  parts  Distilled  Water, 
and  then  rub  the  article  with  a  solution  consisting  of 

4  parts  Oil  of  Turpentine, 
1  part  Wax. 


30  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.   . 

BROWNING  COPPER-LIQUID  FOR. 

A  liquid  for  giving  a  brown  tinge  to  copper  is  made 
by  the  addition  to  acetic  acid  of  11  drachms  of  spirit 
of  sal-ammoniac;  blue  litmus  paper,  when  dipped  in 
same,  becomes  red.  Next  add  5^  drachms  of  sal- 
ammoniac  and  enough  water  to  make  2  pints.  This 
fluid  is  to  be  used,  wetting  the  copper  surface  again 
and  again,  and  rubbing  after  each  application  until 
the  brown  tint  desired  is  obtained. 

BROWNING  METAL. 

A  good  brown  on  metal  may  be  had  by  dissolving 
G8  grams  of  carbonate  of  ammonia  in  1,000  grams  of 
hot  water,  to  which  56  grams  of  citrate  of  copper 
oxide  should  be  added  while  stirring,  and  then  100 
grams  of  verdigris  and  25  grams  of  alum  that  has 
been  previously  dissolved  in  200  grams  of  water 
should  be  added,  and  finally  10  grams  of  oxalic  acid. 
Brush  twice  with  tartar  water. 

BRUNSWICK  BLACK. 

Brunswick  black  is  made  as  follows: 

(1)  Foreign   asphaltum,   45  pounds;   drying  oil,   6 
gallons;  litharge,  6  pounds.     Boil  and  thin  with  25 
gallons  of  oil  or  turpentine.    Used  for  iron  work.  etc. 

(2)  Black  pitch  and  gas  tar  asphaltum,  of  each  25 
pounds;  boil  gently  for  five  hours;  then  add  linseed 
oil,  8  gallons;  litharge  and  red  lead,  of  each,  10  pounds; 
boil  slowly,  and  thin  with  oil  of  turpentine,  20  gal- 
lons.   Inferior  to  the  other,  but  cheaper. 

BURNISHING  SILVER. 

The  first  step  in  burnishing  silver  is  to  clean  off  any 
dirt  which  the  surfaces  of  the  silver  articles  may 
have  contracted  during  the  process  of  their  manufac- 
ture. To  do  this  take  pumice-stone  powder  and  with 
a  brush  saturated  in  strong  soapsuds  rub  the  various 
parts  of  the  article,  even  those  which  are  to  remain  a 
dull  color,  which,  nevertheless,  are  thus  given  a 
beautiful  white  appearance.  After  wiping  with  an 
old  linen  rag  go  ahead  with  the  burnishing. 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  31 

BURNT  CAST-STEEL—TO  RESTORE. 

To  restore  burnt  cast-steel  use  a  mixture  consist- 
ing of 

1  part  Dragons'  Blood, 
8  parts  Salt-petre, 
4  parts  Colophony. 

The  article  is  to  be  heated  to  a  dark-red  heat  and 
dusted  with  this  compound.  After  the  absorption  of 
the  powder  is  complete  the  article  is  to  be  thoroughly 
worked  upon  an  anvil. 

(2)  Another  compound  for  this  purpose  consists  of 
4  parts  Salt-petre, 

y2  part  Gum  Arabic, 
1/2  part  Aloes, 
^4  part  Resin, 

8  parts  Red  Chromate  of  Potassium, 
with  which  the  steel,  when  red-hot,  is  dusted. 

(3)  Another  method  consists  in  the  repeated   im- 
mersion of  the  red-hot  burnt  steel  in  a  compound  of 

2  parts  Boiled  Linseed  Oil, 

3  parts  Colophony. 

BURNT  STBEL  TOOLS— TO  RESTORE. 

To  restore  burnst  steel  tools,  melt  together  4  ounces 
of  black  pitch  and  1  pound  tallow,  and  then  add,  with 
constant   stirring,   4   ounces  of  yellow  prussiate  of 
potash,  12  drachms  of  soap,  a  handful  of  common 
salt  and  13  ounces  of  sal-ammoniac.     Immerse  the 
articles,  heated  red-hot,  in  this  compound;  allow  them 
to  cool  and  then  harden  them  again,  as  customary. 
(2)    Another  compound  consists  of 
5  parts  Fish  Oil, 
2  parts  Tallow, 
10  parts  Resin, 
1,4  part  Asafoetida. 

BUTTER  OF  ANTIMONY. 

Butter  of  antimony  is  made  by  heating  a  tri-sulphide 
with  mercuric  chloride. 


32  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

CASE-HARDENING  CAST-IRON. 

For  case-hardening  cast-iron,  take  salt,  21  pounds; 
saltpetre,  y2  pound;  rock  alum,  %  pound;  ammonia, 
4  ounces;  salt  of  tartar,  4  ounces;  pulverize  all  to- 
gether and  incorporate  thoroughly.  Use  by  powder- 
ing all  over  the  iron  while  hot,  then  plunging  in  cold 
water. 

CASE-HARDENING  COMPOUND  FOR  IRON. 

A  good  case-hardening  for  iron  consists  of 

18  parts  Sal-soda, 
4  parts  Muriate  of  Soda, 
1  part  Black  Oxide  of  Manganese, 

16  parts  Lampblack. 

CASTING  IRON  WITH  PURE  LEAD. 

For  casting  iron  or  steel  plates  with  nearly  pure 
lead,  the  material  to  be  treated  is  subjected  to  a 
series  of  five  baths.  The  first  is  in  a  pickle,  through 
which  a  weak  current  of  electricity  is  passed.  This 
bath  removes  the  scales  from  the  surface  of  the 
metal,  and  the  electricity  is  said  to  greatly  expedite 
matters.  The  second  bath  is  in  lime  water,  which 
neutralizes  the  acid.  Then  comes  the  bath  in  clear 
water.  The  fourth  bath  is  in  a  neutral  solution  of  zinc 
and  stannic  chlorides.  The  drying  process,  which 
follows,  leaves  on  tb?  surface  of  the  plates  a  deposit* 
of  the  mixed  metallic  chlorides,  which  protects  the 
plates  from  oxidation.  The  next  process  consists  in 
passing  the  plates  through  a  bath  of  molten  deal, 
and  when  taken  from  here  the  metal  is  found  to  be 
coated  with  an  adhei'ent  layer  of  lead,  which,  though 
thin,  is  uniformly  spread.  It  is  said  this  process  has 
no  decreasing  effect  on  the  ductility  or  strength  of  the 
iron,  and  that  a  plate  may  be  bent,  closed  and  opened 
again  without  cracking  the  coating. 

CEMENT— ACID  PROOF. 

(1)  To  make  an  acid  proof  cement  mix  oxide  of  zinc 
with  a  concentrated  solution  of  zinc  chloride. 

(2)  A  cement  capable  of  resisting  the  action  of 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  33 

acidulous  fumes  is  composed  of  a  concentrated  solu- 
tion of  silicate  of  soda  formed  into  paste  with  pow- 
dered glass. 

CEMENT— AQUARIUM. 

Cement  for  aquariums  can  be  prepared  in  the  fol- 
lowing way: 

(1)  Take  1  gill  of  litharge,  1  gill  of  plaster  of  paris, 
1  gill  of  fine  white  sand,  1-3  of  a  gill  of  finely  pow- 
dered resin.     Mix  well  and  bottle  and  cork  it  until  it 
is  wanted  for  use;  then  mix  it  with  boiled  linseed  oil 
and  dryers  until  as  thick  as  putty.     Mix  the  cement 
only  in  small  quantities,  as  it  dries  quickly. 

(2)  Mix  boiled  linseed  oil,  litharge,  red  and  white 
lead  together,  using  white  lead  in  the  largest  propor- 
tion; spread  on  flannel  and  place  in  the  joints. 

(3)  A  solution  of  glue,   8  ounces,   to   1   ounce   of 
Venice   turpentine;   boil   together,    agitating   all   the 
time,  until  the  mixture  becomes  as  complete  as  possi- 
ble,  the  joints  to  be  cemented  to  be  kept  together 
for  forty-eight  hours  if  required. 

(4)  Take  half  a  gill  of  gold  size,  2  gills  of  red  lead, 
1%  gills  of  litharge,  and  sufficient  silver-sand  to  make 
into  a  thick  paste  for  use.    This  mixture  sets  in  about 
two  days. 

(5)  Mix   well-dried   Venetian   red,   3  pounds,   with 
oxide  of  iron,  1  pound,  and  add  as  much  boiled  oil  as 
will  make  the  mixture  into  a  stiff  paste. 

(6)  Common   putty   and   litharge    in   about   equal 
quantities,  well  mixed  with  boiled  linseed  oil. 

CEMENT— BLACK  IRON  FOR  IRON  OVENS. 

Black  iron  cement  for  iron  ovens  is  composed  of  the 
following:  Iron  filings  (10  parts),  sand  (12  parts), 
bone  black  (10  parts),  slaked  lime  (12  parts),  lime 
milk  (5  parts). 

CEMENT— BOTTLE  CORK. 

The  bituminous  or  black  cement  for  bottle  corks 
consists  of  pitch  hardened  by  the  addition  of  rosin  and 
brick  dust. 


34  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

CEMENT— DIAMOND. 

The  so-called  Diamond  cement  for  use  in  steam 
apparatus,  steam  boilers,  etc.,  is  made  of  50  parts 
prepared  graphite,  16  parts  litharge,  15  parts  whiting 
and  16  parts  of  linseed  oil  varnish. 

CEMENT— ELECTRICAL. 

A  cement  for  use  in  fixing  electrical  or  chemical 
apparatus  is  prepared  by  the  mixture  of  2  ounces 
plaster  of  paris,  1  pound  of  wax,  1  pound  of  red  ochre, 
5  pounds  of  rosin;  the  entire  mass  being  melted  at  a 
moderate  heat. 

CEMENT-EVANS'  METALLIC. 

Evan's  Metallic  Cement  is  made  by  the  dissolution 
of  a  cadmium  amalgam  prepared  from  2599-100  parts 
cadmium  and  74  1-100  parts  mercury  in  an  excess  of 
mercury,  the  solution  being  slightly  packed  in  a 
leather  bag  and  intimately  kneaded.  This  kneading, 
particularly  in  cases  where  the  cement  has  been  pre- 
viously heated  to  about  97  degrees  Fahrenheit,  makes 
the  same  very  plastic  and  similar  to  softened  wax. 

CEMENT— FIRE-PROOF. 

Fire-proof  cement  is  made  as  follows:  To  4  or  5 
parts  of  clay,  thoroughly  dried  and  pulverized,  add  2 
parts  of  iron  filings  free  from  oxide,  1  part  of  peroxide 
of  manganese,  %  of  sea  salt  and  VL>  of  borax.  Mix 
these  ingredients  thoroughly  and  render  them  as  fine 
as  possible,  then  reduce  them  to  a  thick  paste  with 
the  necessary  quantity  of  water,  mixing  intimately. 
It  must  be  used  immediately.  After  application  it 
should  be  exposed  to  the  heat,  gradually  increasing  to 
almost  a  white  heat.  This  cement  is  very  hard. 

(2)  To  equal  parts  of  sifted  peroxide  of  manganese 
and  pulverized  zinc  white  add  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
commercial  soluble  to  form  a  thin  paste.     This  mix- 
ture, when  used,  immediately  forms  a  cement  quite 
equal  in  hardness  to  that  obtained  by  the  first  method. 

(3)  Take  equal  parts  pulverized   zinc  white  and 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  35 

sifted  peroxide  of  manganese,  and  make  into  a  paste 
"with  soluble  glass. 

CEMENT-FIRE  AND  WATER  PROOF. 

(4)  A  fire  and  water  proof  cement  is  made  by  stir- 
ring intimately  together  2  parts  iron  filings  free  from 
oxide,  5  parts  of  clay  thoroughly  dried  and  pulver- 
ized, l/2  part  borax,  %  part  salt,  1  part  of  peroxide  of 
manganese.     These  are  made  as  fine  as  possible  by 
stirring  and  then  reduced  to  a  thick  paste.    This  ce- 
ment must  be  used  as  soon  as  it  is  made.    After  it  has 
been  applied,  it  should  be  exposed  to  a  gradually  in- 
creasing heat  that  rises  almost  to  a  white  heat. 

Another  fire  and  water  proof  cement  is  made  by 
the  addition  of  enough  soluble  glass  to  equal  parts  of 
pulverized  zinc-white  and  sifted  peroxide  of  manga- 
nese to  form  a  thin  paste.  This  cement  must  also  be 
used  as  soon  as  it  is  made. 

(5)  Cement  which  resists  heat  and  water  is  com- 
posed of  the  following:    Lime,  10  parts;  iron  filings,  5 
parts;  vinegar,  2  parts;  water,  3  parts. 

CEMENT  FOR  AIR-TIGHT  OVEN   DOOR. 

A  cement  for  air-tight  oven  door,  which  must  be 
used  as  soon  as  made,  is  composed  by  homogeneously 
combining  120  parts  of  iron  filings,  1  of  flowers  of 
sulphur,  8  of  powdered  feldspar  and  2  of  pulverized 
sal-ammoniac  made  into  a  paste  by  the  addition  of 
water. 

CEMENT  FOR  ASBESTOS. 

To  make  a  good  cement  or  paste  for  pasting  asbestos 
to  tin  hot-air  furnace  pipes.  Take  2  parts  litharge,  1 
part  dry  slacked  lime,  and  1  part  fine,  dry  sand.  Com- 
bine them  thoroughly,  and  add  enough  hot  linseed 
oil  to  form  a  paste-like  mass.  It  sets  hard  and  quick- 
ly, and  must  be  freshly  prepared  every  time  it  is  re- 
quired for  application,  which  application  must  be 
made  only  when  the  cement  is  hot. 


30  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

CEMENT  FOR  BLAST  PIPES,  ETC. 

A  cement  for  use  in  blast  pipes,  hot-blast  stoves, 
blow  engines,  etc.,  is  composed  of  clay,  1  part;  com- 
mon salt,  1  part;  iron  filings,  15  parts.  Mix  with  equal 
parts  of  vinegar  and  water. 

CEMENT  FOR  BRASS  AND  GLASS. 

Cement  for  brass  and  glass  is  made  thusly:  One 
part  of  wax  and  5  parts  of  resin  are  melted,  and  into 
this  mass  are  stirred  ^4  part  of  plaster  of  paris  and  1 
part  burnt  ochre. 

(2).  Melt  together  1  part  of  wax,  4  parts  of  resin- 
preferably  pine  resin — and  stir  into  the  melted  mass 
1  part  of  elutriated  chalk  or  brick  dust.  Both  these 
cements  are  to  be  applied  warm  to  heated  surfaces. 

(3)  For  cementing  brass  on  glass,  knead  a  quantity 
of  plaster  of  paris  into  twice  the  same  quantity  of 
resin  soap,  which  is  made  by  boiling  3  parts  of  resin 
and  one  part  of  caustic  soda  in  5  of  water.  This 
cement  is  used  to  a  large  extent  for  fastening  brass 
tops  on  glass  lamps.  This  is  very  strong,  is  unaffected 
by  peti-oleum,  bears  heat  excellently  and  becomes  hard 
in  from  y2  to  %  of  an  hour.  It  will  harden  more  slowly 
when  slaked  lime,  white  lead  or  zinc-white  is  used  iu 
place  of  the  plaster  of  paris. 

CEMENT  FOR  CARD  AND  TIN. 

A  cement  to  unite  card  to  tin  is  made  as  follows: 
Boil  1  ounce  of  borax  and  2  ounces  of  powdered  shel- 
lac in  15  ounces  of  water  until  the  shellac  is  entirely 
dissolved. 

CEMENT  FOR  CASINGS. 

A  good  cement  for  filling  faults  in  casings  is  made 
as  follows:  Iron  filings  free  from  rust,  10  parts;  sul- 
phur, %;  sal-ammoniac,  0.8;  these  are  mixed  with 
water  to  a  thick  paste,  which  is  rammed  into  the 
"faults."  This  becomes  strong  when  the  iron  filings 
are  rusted.  The  parts  which  have  to  be  cemented  are 
treated  before  the  operation  with  liquid  ammonia,  so 
as  to  be  perfectly  free  from  grease. 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS,  37 

CEMENT  FOR  CAST-IRON  TANKS. 

The  following  cement  is  recommended  for  repairing 
damaged  places  in  cast-iron  tanks,  cisterns,  etc.:  Five 
parts  brimstone,  2  parts  black  lead,  and  2  parts  of 
cast-iron  filings,  previously  sifted.  Melt  together, 
taking  care  that  the  brimstone  does  not  catch  fire. 
The  damaged  place,  perfectly  dry,  is  well  heated  by 
laying  a  piece  of  red-hot  iron  upon  it,  and  is  then 
stopped  with  the  cement  previously  heated  in  a  melt- 
ing ladle  until  it  becomes  soft. 

CEMENT  FOR  COPPER  AND  BRASS  PIPE 
PARTS. 

A  cement  for  copper  and  brass  parts  of  steam  pipes 
is  composed  of 

10  parts  Copper  or  Brass  shavings  (respectively), 
1  part  Sulphur. 

1  part  Gutta-percha. 

2  parts  Caoutchouc. 

CEMENT   FOR   DEFECTIVE   PLACES    IN   CAST- 
INGS. 

In  order  to  repair  a  defect  in  a  casting,  heat  the 
defective  place,  lay  a  piece  of  cement  upon  it,  press- 
ing same  down  with  a  hot  iron.  The  following  paste 
will  be  found  valuable  for  this  purpose:  One  part 
rosin,  1  part  black  pitch,  melted  in  a  crucible,  and 
enough  fine  iron  filings  added  for  the  formation  of  a 
stiff  mass. 

CEMENT  FOR  FASTENING  HOOKS  IN  STONE. 

A  cement  for  fastening  hooks,  clamps,  iron  rods, 
etc.,  in  stone  is  made  as  follows:  Make  a  paste  of  1 
part  of  iron  filings,  3  parts  of  plaster  of  paris  and  glue 
water. 

Another  receipt  gives  7  parts  of  plaster  of  paris  to 
1  of  the  iron  filings.  If  it  is  desired  that  the  article 
cemented  is  to  stay  white,  iron  filings  should  not  be 
used  and  the  cement  should  rather  be  made  of  3  parts 
of  white  of  egg,  7  parts  of  plaster  of  paris,  with  a 
large  enough  amount  of  water. 


38  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

CEMENT    FOR    FASTENING    IRON    TO    STONE. 

To  make  cement  for  fastening  iron  to  stone,  take 
fine  iron  filings,  10  parts;  plaster  of  paris,  30  parts; 
sal-ammoniac,  ya.  Mix  to  a  fluid  paste  with  weak 
vinegar  and  use  at  once. 

CEMENT  FOR  FASTENING   LABELS    ON    POL- 
ISHED  NICKEL. 

To  fasten  labels  on  polished  nickel  dissolve  400  parts 
by  weight  of  coarsely  powdered  dextrine  in  600  of 
water;  add  20  parts  glycerine  and  10  of  glucose  and 
heat  the  mixture  to  194  degrees  Fahrenheit. 

CEMENT  FOR  FASTENING  METALS  ON  WOOD. 

Mix  into  a  thick  solution  of  glue,  finely  ground  chalk, 
until  the  mass  gets  the  consistency  desired. 

CEMENT  FOR  FASTENING  COPPER  TO  SAND- 
STONE. 

The  following  compound  will  be  found  useful  for 
fastening  copper  to  sand-stone:  Mix  intimately  so  as 
to  form  a  plastic  mass  4  parts  of  powdered  glass,  G 
parts  of  bole.  6  parts  of  litharge,  4  parts  of  linseed- 
oil  varnish  and  7  parts  of  white  lead.  It  will  also 
fasten  a  number  of  other  metals  to  a  number  of  other 
species  of  stone. 

CEMENT  FOR  GLASS. 

To  make  a  cement  that  will  cement  glass  take  about 
equal  quantities  of  common  putty  and  litharge,  well 
mixed  with  boiled  linseed  oil. 

CEMENT  FOR  GLASS  PARTS  ON  LAMPS. 

A  bismuth  cement  for  cementing  the  glass  parts  on 
petroleum  lamps  is  composed  of 

2  parts  Tin, 

3  parts  Lead, 

2  5-10  parts  Bismuth. 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  39 

CEMENT   FOR  GLASS,   WOOD  AND   METAL. 

Concentrated  sirupous  glycerine  mixed  with  finely 
ground  litharge  to  a  thick  viscid  paste  makes  a  ce- 
ment to  resist  heat,  water,  oil  and  acids.  Glass,  metal 
and  wood  may  be  cemented  with  it. 

CEMENT  FOR  HEATED  OBJECTS. 

Cement  for  objects  which  have  to  be  heated  may 
be  made  as  follows:  Iron  filings,  100  parts;  clay,  50; 
common  salt,  10;  quartz  sand,  20. 

CEMENT  FOR  IRON  CISTERNS. 

A  good  cement  for  iron  cisterns  is  made  as  follows: 
Finest  iron  filings  are  mixed  with  vinegar  into  a  paste, 
which  is  left  to  stand  until  it  becomes  brown;  the 
mass  is  then  pressed  into  the  joints. 

CEMENT  FOR  IRON  RAILINGS. 

Here  is  a  cement  for  iron  railings,  gratings  to  stoves, 
etc.,  which,  it  is  claimed,  will  withstand  the  blows  of 
a  sledge  hammer:  Mix  thoroughly  equal  parts  of 
sulphur  and  white-lead  with  about  one-sixth  propor- 
tion of  borax.  In  applying,  wet  the  mixture  with 
strong  sulphuric  acid  and  place  a  thin  layer  between 
the  two  pieces  of  iron  and  press  firmly  together.  In 
five  days  it  will  be  dry  and  solid  like  welding. 

CEMENT  FOR  JOINTS. 

A  cement  for  filling  in  joints  and  uniting  iron  sur- 
faces is  made  as  follows:  Take  100  parts  iron  fil- 
ings, no  larger  than  rape  seed  and  free  from  rust,  ^ 
part  of  flowers  of  sulphur  and  %  part  of  coarsely 
powdered  sal-ammoniac.  Wet  the  mixture  with  equal 
parts  of  vinegar  and  water  and  beat  it,  with  a  repeti- 
tion of  wetting  until  it  becomes  heated,  brittle  and 
dry.  In  this  condition  place  it  in  the  joints  and  pack 
in  as  tightly  as  you" can  with  chisel  and  hammer,  thus 
again  making  it  moist  and  soft.  Finally  the  joints 
are  filled  up  evenly  and  permitted  to  become  dry  for 
48  hours,  after  which  time,  if  the  work  is  well  done, 


40  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

separate  black  drops  will  come  out  upon  the  hardened 
crust.  For  the  preservation  of  this  cement  ram  it 
into  an  iron  pot  and  pour  water  over  it.  When  you 
wish  to  employ  it,  pour  off  water  and  add  to  the  mass 
taken  out  a  large  enough  quantity  of  iron  filings  to 
give  the  requisite  consistency  and  pour  the  water 
into  the  pot  again. 

(2)  Another  cement  is  composed  of  1  part  sal-am- 
moniac, 1  part  sulphur,  30  parts  iron  fillings. 

(3)  Another  cement  is  composed  of  pulverized  cast- 
iron  turnings,  50  parts;  flowers  of  sulphur,  1  part;  sal- 
ammoniac,  2  parts. 

(4)  Another  cement  is  composed  of  pulverized  iron 
filings  100  parts  and  pulverized  sal-ammoniac  2  parts. 
Keep  this  compound  in  well-closed  boxes  in  a  dry 
place.    For  use,  wet  with  equal  parts  of  vinegar  and 
water.    Heat  the  cemented  places  only  when  they  are 
wholly  dry. 

CEMENT  FOR  KEROSENE  LAMPS. 

For  a  cement  to  mend  kerosene  lamps,  or  secure 
them  to  the  standard  when  they  have  become  loose: 
Resin,  3  parts;  caustic  soda,  1  part;  water,  5  parts, 
mixed  with  half  its  weight  of  plaster  of  paris.  This 
cement  sets  firmly  in  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour 
and  has  great  adhesive  power.  It  is  not  permeable 
to  kerosene,  and  is  a  low  conductor  of  heat.  Hot 
water  attacks  it  but  superficially. 

CEMENT  FOR  LABELS  ON  NICKEL. 

(1)  To  fasten  labels  on  polished  nickel,  dissolve  400 
parts  by  weight  of  coarsely  powdered  dextrin  in  600 
parts  of  water.    To  this  add  10  parts  of  glucose  and 
20  parts  of  glycerine,  and  heat  these  ingredients  to 
194  degrees  Fahrenheit. 

(2)  Dissolve  400  parts  by   weight  of  dextrin   in 
water,  this  fluid  to  be  further  diluted  by  the  addition 
of  200  parts  by  weight  of  water.    Then  add  20  parts 
of  aluminum  sulphate  and  20  parts  of  glucose,  heat- 
ing the  compound  in  a  steam  bath  to  194  degrees 
Fahrenheit.    At  this,  the  mass  which  is  at  first  thick, 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  41 

becomes  clear  and  thinly  fluid.     The  first  of  these 
cements  is  probably  the  best. 

CEMENT  FOR  LEATHER  AND  I.RON. 

For  a  cement  for  leather  and  iron,  first  paint  the 
iron  with  either  white  or  red  lead.  After  tbis  coating 
dries,  cover  it  with  a  cement  made  of  the  best  glue 
softened  by  soaking  in  cold  water,  and  then  dissolve 
in  moderately  warm  vinegar,  to  which  is  added  one- 
third  of  its  volume  of  white  oil  of  turpentine,  and 
after  it  is  intimately  stirred  in,  it  is  applied  while 
warm  with  a  brush  and  the  leather  is  pressed  upon  it. 

(2)  Digest  1  part  of  crushed  nut  galls  for  six  hours 
with  8  parts  of  distilled  water.  Carefully  strain  the 
mass;  then  make  a  dissolution  of  glue  soaked  in  its 
own  weight  of  water  for  24  hours.  The  infusion  of 
galls  is  warmed  and  spread  on  the  leather  while  the 
glue  solution  is  put  on  the  roughened  surface  of  the 
heated  metal.  The  dampened  leather  is  pressed  upon 
it,  and  when  dry  its  adherence  is  so  firm  that  its 
removal  is  impossible  without  tearing. 

CEMENT  FOR  LEAK  IN  LEAD  PIPE. 

For  a  leak  in  lead  pipe  for  hot  water  take  a  solder 
made  of  2  parts  tin  to  one  of  lead,  and  use  with  a 
mixture  of  resin  and  sweet  oil  as  a  flux. 

CEMENT  FOR  LEAKY  BOILERS. 

A  cement  for  leaky  boilers  (steam  or  hot  water) 
consists  of  2  parts  of  powdered  litharge,  2  parts  of 
fine  sand,  and  1  part  of  slacked  lime.  Mix  with  lin- 
seed oil  and  apply  quickly. 

CEMENT  FOR  LUTING  CRUCIBLE  LIDS. 

For  luting  crucible  lids  apply  to  a  concentrated  solu- 
tion of  borax  a  thick  paste  made  from  lime  freshly 
slaked  to  a  powder.  Allow  same  to  dry  slowly  and 
heat  as  customary. 

CEMENT  FOR  MACHINE  PARTS. 
A  good  cement  for  machine  parts  consists  of  a  com- 


42  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

pound  of  gutta  percha  with  filings  of  iron,  steel,  cop- 
per or  brass,  or  as  a  substitute  for  the  latter,  with 
powdered  iron  or  copper  ores. 

CEMENT  FOR  METAL  AND  GLASS. 

To  fasten  metal  on  glass  rapidly  and  securely,  thor- 
oughly mix  50  parts  of  dried  white  lead  with  100  parts 
by  weight  of  pulverized  white  litharge  and  stir  it  to  a 
plastic  mass  by  mixing  in  1  part  of  copal  lacquer  and 
3  parts  of  boiled  linseed  oil.  The  process  of  cement- 
ing is  easy.  Coat  the  lower  surface  of  the  metal  with 
the  cement,  press  upon  the  glass  and  remove  the 
excess  of  cement  with  a  proper  tool.  Then  cement 
dries  quickly  and  becomes  very  hard. 

CEMENT  FOR  METAL  LETTERS. 

A  cement  for  fastening  metal  letters  upon  wood, 
metal,  glass,  etc.,  is  compounded  of  5  parts  of  oil  of 
turpentine,  5  parts  of  boiled  linseed  oil,  15  parts  of 
copal  varnish  and  5  parts  of  glue.  The  dissolution  of 
the  glue  is  effected  by  putting  a  pound  into  a  water 
bath.  When  this  is  dissolved,  add  into  the  mixture  10 
parts  of  slaked  lime. 

(2)  Compound  together  7  parts  of  tar  oil,  10  of  plas- 
ter of  paris  and  roman  cement,  8  of  caoutchouc  dis- 
solved in  tar  oil,  5  of  linseed  oil.    Boil  with  litharge 
and  15  parts  of  copal  varnish,  prepared  with  gum  lac. 

(3)  Compound  together  5  parts  of  linseed  oil  boiled 
with  litharge,  5  parts  oil  of  turpentine  and  15  parts 
of  a  varnish  made  of  white  resin  and  sandarac.    To 
this  5  parts  of  marine  glue  are  to  be  added  and  on 
the  dissolution  of  this  mixture  in  a  water  bath  10 
parts  of  white  lead  and  flake  white  are  to  be  added. 

(4)  Compound  together  10  parts  of  ochre  or  washed 
clay,  2  parts  of  powdered  isinglass,  5  of  sifted  iron 
filings,  5  parts  oil  of  turpentine  with  15  parts  copal 
varnish  made  ready  with  the  addition  of  resin. 

CEMENT  FOR  METAL  MOUNTINGS  ON  PORCE- 
LAIN, BRASS,  ETC. 

For  fastening  metal  mountings  on  metal,  glass,  etc., 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  43 

dissolve  iu  water  2  parts  of  high  grade  glue.  Heat 
the  solution  over  a  coal  fire  and  then  add  ^  Part 
of  Venetian  turpentine  and  1  part  of  good  linseed  oil 
varnish.  After  the  articles  have  been  cemented  they 
should  remain  tied  together  for  from  40  to  60  hours. 

CEMENT  FOR  METAL  PARTS  ON  GLASS  LAMPS, 
ETC. 

A  cement  for  fastening  the  metal  parts  on  glass 
lamps,  etc.,  is  composed  of  20  parts  plaster  of  paris, 
20  parts  of  water,  16  parts  of  strong  lime,  12  parts  of 
resin.  Boil  the  resin  with  the  lime  until  it  is  com- 
pletely dissolved,  and  when  cold,  it  forms  a  solid  and 
tenacious  mass.  Dilute  this  by  the  addition  of  water 
and  carefully  work  in  the  plaster  of  paris.  You  can 
dissolve  this  in  petroleum. 

CEMENT  FOR  PACKING  STEAM  PISTONS. 

A  cement  for  packing  stuffing  boxes  and  pistons  for 
steam  engines  is  composed  of 

10  parts  Copper,  Zinc  or  Lead  Filings, 
1  part  Powdered  Graphite, 

1  part  Silicate  of  Magnesia, 

2  parts  Gutta-percha, 
1  part  Sulphur, 

5  parts  Caoutchouc. 

If  this  cement  is  to  be  exposed  to  the  direct  action 
of  the  fire  or  place  where  it  will  encounter  a  high 
degree  of  heat,  asbestos  should  be  added  to  the  mix- 
ture. 

CEMENT    FOR    PIPE    CONDUITS    UNEXPOSED 
TO  HEAT. 

Cement  for  pipe  conduits  which  are  not  exposed  to 
heat  is  made  of 

10  parts  Iron  Fillings, 
1  part  Sal-ammoniac, 
1  part  Sulphur, 
4  parts  Caoutchouc, 
1  part  Gutta-percha. 


44  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 


CEMENT  FOR  PUNCTURED  TIRES. 

A  cement  for  punctured  bicycle  tires  is  composed  as 
follows:  Bisulphide  of  carbon,  100  parts;  gutta- 
percha,  20  parts;  caoutchouc,  40  parts;  isinglass,  10 
parts. 

CEMENT  FOR  REPAIRING   IRON   PANS. 

Take  1  part  of  fine  black  lead,  2  parts  sulphur;  place 
the  sulphur  in  an  iron  pan,  elevating  it  from  the  fire 
until  the  commencement  of  melting,  at  which  time 
the  black  lead  is  to  be  added.  Mix  thoroughly  until 
it  is  well  melted  and  then  pour  out  upon  a  smooth 
stone  or  iron  plate.  After  it  is  cool,  break  it  into 
small  pieces.  A  large  enough  amount  of  this  compo- 
sition when  put  upon  the  crack  of  an  iron  pot  needing 
repairing  can  be  soldered  with  a  hot  iron  just  as 
sheets  are  soldered.  When  there  is  a  little  hole  in 
the  pot,  hammer  a  copper  rivet  therein  and  then  solder 
over  it  with  this  cement. 

CEMENT  FOR  RESERVOIR  JOINTS. 

(1)  For  cementing  steam  joints  of  iron  and  water 
joints,  mix  iron  filings  with  sulphuric  acid,  diluted 
with  1  part  acid  to  30  parts  of  water  or  with  wine 
vinegar,  and  pack  the  compound  into  the  joints. 

(2)  Make  a  paste  composed  of  1  part  green  vitriol, 
2  parts  iron  filings  and  wine  vinegar. 

CEMENT  FOR  SMALL  ARTICLES. 

An  improved  cement  for  small  iron  articles  is  made 
as  follows:  Take  2  parts  sulphur  and  1  part  by  weight 
of  fine  black  lead,  put  the  sulphur  in  an  old  iron  pan, 
holding  it  over  the  fire  until  it  begins  to  melt,  then 
add  the  lead;  stir  well  until  all  is  melted,  then  pour 
out  on  an  iron  plate,  or  smooth  stone.  When  cool, 
break  into  small  pieces.  A  sufficient  quantity  of  this 
compound  being  placed  upon  the  crack  of  the  iron  pot 
to  be  mended,  can  be  soldered  by  a  hot  iron  in  the 
same  manner  as  a  tinsmith  solders  his  sheets.  If 
there  is  a  small  hole  in  the  pot,  drive  a  copper  rivet 
in  it,  and  then  solder  it  with  the  cement. 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  45 

CEMENT   FOR   STEAM   BOILERS. 

Red  or  white  leaf  in  oil  4  parts,  iron  borings  3  parts, 
makes  a  soft  cement  for  steam  boilers. 

CEMENT  FOR  STEAM  PIPES. 

For  a  cement  for  steam  pipes,  which  will  not  require 
the  removal  of  the  injured  piece,  take  5  pounds  of 
paris  white,  5  pounds  yellow  ochre,  10  pounds  of 
litharge,  5  pounds  red  lead,  and  4  pounds  black  oxide 
manganese.  Mix  with  great  thoroughness  and  add  a 
small  quantity  of  asbestos  and  boiled  oil.  This  com- 
position will  set  hard  in  from  two  to  five  hours. 

(2)    A  cement  for  steam  pipes  is  made  of 
10  parts  Iron  Filings, 

1  part  Sulphur, 

2  parts  Caoutchouc, 
1  part  Gutta-percha. 

CEMENT  FOR  STONE  WORK. 

A  fine  cement  for  stone  work  is  made  of  equal  parts 
of  resin,  yellow  wax  and  Venetian  red,  mixed  up  to- 
gether while  in  a  melted  condition. 

CEMENT  FOR  STOVE  JOINTS. 

Cement  for  cementing  joints  or  cracks  in  iron  stoves 
is  composed  of  clay,  salt,  sand,  coarse  iron  filings  and 
cow-hair  with  fresh  blood. 

Another  good  cement  is  composed  of  salt  with 
water,  clay  and  beechwood-ash. 

CEMENT  FOR  STOVES. 

A  mixture  in  the  form  of  a  cement  which  may  be 
used  to  stop  the  cracks  in  stoves  so  the  smoke  will 
not  pass  through  is  composed  of  glycerine  and  litharge 
mixed  to  a  paste.  Another  receipt  is  to  take  equal 
parts  of  sulphur  and  white  lead,  with  about  a  sixth  of 
borax,  incorporating  them  so  as  to  form  one  homo- 
geneous mass.  When  going  to  apply  it,  wet  it  with 
strong  sulphuric  acid,  and  place  a  thin  layer  of  it 
between  the  two  pieces  of  iron,  which  should  then  be 
pressed  together. 


46  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

(2)  For  stove  cement  use  pulverized  clay,  8  parts; 
fine  iron  filings,  4  parts;  peroxide  of  manganese,  2 
parts,  sea  salt,  1  part;  borax,  1  part.  Thoroughly  pul- 
verize, dry  and  mix.  When  required  for  use,  make 
up  the  required  quantity  for  immediate  use  into  a 
thick  putty  with  water. 

CEMENT  FOR  TIN  AND  GLASS. 

For  cementing  tin  and  glass  together  a  putty  of  pure 
white  or  red  lead  is  recommended.  Marine  glue  is  also 
used.  A  tolerable  elastic  cement  may  be  made  by 
warming  common  coal  tar  until  soft,  and  then  mixing 
rather  stiff  with  Portland  cement. 

CEMENT  FOR  TINFOIL. 

For  a  cement  which  will  attach  tinfoil  to  paper  or 
other  articles,  dissolve  caustic  soda  in  twice  its  weight 
of  water;  add  rye  flour  until  no  more  of  the  flour  will 
dissolve,  adding  a  little  water  and  stirring  all  the 
time.  To  the  paste  thus  prepared  add  a  few  drops 
of  Venice  turpentine,  liquefying  the  turpentine  by 
gentle  heat.  The  paste  thus  made  will  firmly  fix 
tinfoil. 

CEMENT  FOR  WATER  PIPES. 

A  cement  for  joining  cast-iron  water  pipes  is  made 
as  follows:  Intimately  mix  8  parts  white  lead,  2  parts 
litharge,  1  part  of  colophony  and  24  parts  Roman 
cement.  Stir  this  into  a  plastic  mass  with  old  linseed 
oil,  kept  boiling  together  with  one-half  its  weight  of 
colophony  until  the  dissolution  of  the  latter. 

(2)  Melt  together  tallow  and  colophony,  stirring  in- 
to the  melted  mass  sufficient  finely  sifted  gypsum  to 
give  it  the  consistency  desired.  Compound  together 
equal  parts  of  potters'  clay,  Roman  cement,  clay  and 
burned  lime,  all  dried  separately  and  ground  fine.  The 
mixture  is  to  be  worked  together  with  linseed  oil. 

CEMENT   FOR  ZINC  AND  GLASS. 

An  inexpensive  cement  for  uniting  zinc  with  glass 
may  be  made  as  follows:  One  pound  of  shellac  dis- 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  47 

solved  in  1  pint  of  alcohol,  "with  one-twentieth  its 
volume  of  a  solution  of  gutta-percha  in  bisulphide  of 
carbon,  will  dry  quickly.  A  slow-drying  one  may  be 
made  thus:  Two  ounces  of  thick  glue  solution,  1 
ounce  linseed  oil  varnish,  or  %  ounce  Venetian  turpen- 
tine. Boil  together. 

(2)  A  cement  to  unite  zinc  strongly  to  glass  is  thus 
made:  One  pound  of  shellac  dissolved  in  one  pint  of 
alcohol,  Avith  one-twentieth  its  volume  of  a  solution  of 
gutta-percha  in  bisulphide  of  carbon.  It  dries  quickly. 

CEMENT  FOR  ZINC  ORNAMENTS. 

A  colored  cement  to  repair  zinc  ornaments  is  made 
by  thoroughly  stirring  together  fine  whiting  with  soda 
water  solution  of  33  degrees  Be,  to  which  zinc  dust 
is  added,  the  whole  being  stirred  to  a  thick,  plastic 
mass,  which  hardens  in  from  six  to  eight  hours  and 
acquires  an  unusual  calidity  and  a  gray  color.  If  it 
is  desired  that  it  should  have  a  lustrous  white  color 
after  hardening  it  can  be  polished  with  an  agate. 

CEMENT-GASFITTERS'. 

Gasfitters'  cement  consists  of  4%  parts  of  resin,  1 
part  of  wax,  and  3  parts  of  Venitian  red. 

CEMENT— GLASS. 

Is  composed  of  tin  (2  parts),  lead  (3  parts),  bismuth 
(2i/2  parts). 

CEMENT-GROUVELLES'  OIL. 

Grouvelles'  oil  cement  is  made  by  intimately  mixing 
2^/2,  parts  of  white  lead,  1  part  of  red  lead,  2  parts  of 
perfectly  dry  clay,  finely  pulverized  with  boiled  lin- 
seed oil. 

CEMENT  IMPERVIOUS  TO  OIL. 

A  cement  impervious  to  oil,  and,  therefore,  useful  to 
mend  kerosene  lamps,  is  made  by  taking  3  parts  of 
resin  boiled  with  5  parts  of  water  and  1  part  of  caustic 
soda.  Mix  with  half  its  weight  of  plaster  of  paris. 
This  sets  in  one  hour. 


48  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

CEMENTING  BRASS  ON  GLASS. 

Puscher  recommends  a  resin  soap  for  this  purpose, 
made  by  boiling  1  part  caustic  soda,  3  parts  of  colo- 
phonium  (resin)  in  5  parts  of  water,  and  kneading 
into  it  half  the  quantity  of  plaster  of  paris.  This  ce- 
ment is  useful  for  fastening  the  brass  top  on  glass 
lamps,  as  it  is  very  strong,  is  not  acted  upon  by  petro- 
leum, bears  heat  very  well,  and  hardens  in  one-half  or 
three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

By  substituting  zinc  white,  white  lead,  or  air-slaked 
lime  for  plaster  of  paris,  it  hardens  more  slowly. 
Water  only  attacks  the  surface  of  this  cement. 

Wiederhold  recommends,  for  the  same  purpose,  a 
fusible  metal,  composed  of  4  parts  lead,  2  parts  tin. 
and  2y2  parts  bismuth,  which  melts  at  212  degrees 
Fahrenheit.  The  melted  metal  is  poured  into  the  cap- 
sule, the  glass  pressed  into  it,  and  then  allowed  to 
cool  slowly  in  a  warm  place. 

CEMENTING  CRACKS  IN  STOVES. 

A  paste  of  equal  parts  of  sifted  ashes,  clay  and  salt, 
and  a  little  water,  cements  cracks  in  stoves  and 
ovens. 

CEMENTING  GLASS  INTO  METAL. 

(1)  Melt  carefully  40  parts  of  white  wax,  80  of  col- 
cothar  and  160  parts  by  weight  of  finely  pulverized 
colophony.     Add  to  the  mass  when  melting  20  parts 
by  weight  of  Venetian  turpentine.     The  mass  is  to 
be  removed  from  the  fire  and  the  finished  cement 
mixed  until  cold  with  a  wooden  spatula.    This  cement 
is  to  be  applied  when  warm. 

(2)  Compound  together  equal  quantities  of  finely 
powdered  pumice  and  shellac  and  make  application 
of  same  while  warm. 

(3)  Mix  1  part  of  white  wax  and  10  parts  of  beech. 
This  cement  will  be  found  especially  valuable  for  fas- 
tening metal  or  glass  articles  for  optical  glasses,  so 
that  in  polishing  they  remain  fixed. 

(4)  Take  a  good  grade  of  sealing  wax,  taking  pains 
that  same  is  not  too  brittle.    If  there  is  any  brittle- 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  49 

ness,  remove  same  with  a  little  Venetian  turpentine. 
When  the  glass  is  cemented  in  a  metallic  case,  both 
should  be  heated  to  the  melting  point  of  the  sealing 
wax. 

CEMENTING  IRON  TO  IRON. 

A  cement  for  pieces  of  iron  to  iron  which  must  be 
used  soon  after  it  is  made  is  composed  of  1  part 
flowers  of  sulphur,  2  parts  sal-ammoniac,  60  parts 
powdered  cast-iron  bore  chips.  Stir  into  a  stiff  paste 
by  the  addition  of  water. 

CEMENTING  IRON  TO  WOOD. 

To  cement  iron  to  wood  or  stone,  melt  together  1 
part  of  wax  and  4  parts  of  black  pitch,  and  mix  into 
the  melted  mass  1  part  of  brick  dust. 

CEMENTING  KNIVES  AND  FORKS  IN  SILVER 
HANDLES. 

Two  parts  of  pitch  are  to  be  melted  and  then  1  part 
of  brick  dust  is  stirred  in.  The  cavity  in  the  handle 
is  filled  with  this  compound  and  the  tang  of  the  blade 
is  then  forced  in. 

CEMENTING   KNIVES   AND   FORKS   IN   THEIR 
HANDLES. 

(1)  To  cement  knives  and  forks  in  their  handles, 
compound  together  2  parts  of  pulverized  colophony 
and  1  part  of  brick  dust.    The  cavity  in  the  handle  is 
to  be  filled  with  this  compound  and  then  you  force  in 
the  heated  tang  of  the  blade. 

(2)  Another  cement  which  is  equally  good  for  this 
purpose  and  is  applied  in  the  same  manner  is  made 
by  melting  together  1  part  of  sulphur  and  4  parts  of 
colophony;  iron  filings,  brick  dust  or  fine  sand  being 
mixed  into  the  melted  mass. 

CEMENTING     METAL     PLATES     ON     WOODEN 
BOXES. 

To  cement  metal  plates  on  wooden  boxes,  melt  to- 
gether 1  part  linseed  oil  and  6  parts  resin  and  mix 


50  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

into  the  melted  mass  y2  part  of  plaster  of  paris  and  1 
part  of  burnt  ochre. 

CEMENTING  RUBBER  OR  GUTTA  PERCHA  TO 
METAL. 

Rubber,  or  gutta  percha,  may  be  cemented  to  metal 
by  the  following  process:  Take  pulverized  shellac  and 
dissolve  in  ten  times  its  weight  of  pure  ammonia.  In 
three  days  the  mixture  will  be  of  the  required  coin- 
sistency.  The  ammonia  penetrates  the  rubber,  and 
enables  the  shellac  to  take  a  firm  hold;  but  as  it  all 
evaporates  in  time,  the  rubber  is  immovably  fastened 
to  the  metal,  and  neither  gas  nor  water  will  remove  it. 

CEMENTING  STEAM  PIPES. 

The  cement  is  composed  of  5  pounds  Paris  white, 
5  pounds  yellow  ochre,  10  pounds  litharge,  5  pounds 
red  lead,  and  4  pounds  black  oxide  of  manganese, 
these  various  materials  being  mixed  with  great  thor- 
oughness, a  small  quantity  of  asbestos  and  boiled  oil 
being  afterward  added.  The  composition  as  thus  pre- 
pared will  set  hard  in  from  two  to  five  hours,  and 
possess  the  advantage  of  not  being  subject  to  ex- 
pansion and  contraction  to  such  an  extent  as  to  cause 
leakage  afterward,  and  its  efficiency  in  places  difficult 
of  access  is  of  special  importance.  This  is  a  cement 
of  specially  valuable  properties  for  steam  pipes,  in 
filling  up  small  leaks,  such  as  a  blow-hole  in  a  casting, 
without  the  necessity  of  removing  the  injured  place. 

CEMENTING  THIN  METAL  SHEETS. 

To  cement  thin  metal  sheets,  dissolve  isinglass  cut 
into  little  pieces  in  a  small  amount  of  water  at  a  mod- 
erate heat,  small  portions  of  nitric  acid  being  added, 
the  determination  of  the  proper  proportions  gener- 
ally being  gained  by  experiment.  Great  care  should 
be  taken  about  the  amount  of  nitric  acid  used.  If 
not  enough  is  taken,  the  cement  will  not  adhere  well; 
while  if  too  much,  the  cement  will  require  even  weeks 
for  drying. 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  51 

CEMENTING  WITH  COPPER  AMALGAM. 

To  cement  articles  with  copper  amalgam,  first 
brighten  them  with  acid,  then  heat  to  from  176  to  194 
degrees  Fahrenheit,  and  after  the  application  of  the 
amalgam,  firmly  press  them  together.  The  adhesion  of 
the  parts  is  as  firm  as  if  they  were  soldered; 

CEMENT— IRON. 

A  good  cement  for  iron  railing  top,  iron  grating, 
etc.,  is  made  of  equal  parts  of  white  lead  and  sulphur 
with  about  1-6  part  of  borax,  these  three  substances 
being  intimately  mixed,  forming  a  homogeneous 
mass.  Before  application  of  this  compound,  moisten 
it  with  strong  sulphuric  acid,  placing  a  thin  layer  of 
it  between  the  two  pieces  of  iron,  which  are  pressed 
together  at  once.  It  will  take  a  period  of  five  days 
for  this  to  become  perfectly  dry,  at  which  time  all 
traces  of  the  cement  will  have  disappeared,  the  job 
looking  as  though  it  had  been  welded. 

(2)  The  "boss"  cement  for  iron  is  the  plain  "rust 
joint,"  made  with  iron  filings  and  water,  without  any 
acids  or  sulphur,  etc.,  which  the  books  direct.  When 
well  caulked  into  the  joint,  if  fine  filings  are  used,  it 
is  possible  to  crack  the  hub  of  a  pipe  by  the  expan- 
sion of  the  filings.  This  can  be  put  in  any  place 
where  the  filings  have  a  chance  to  wedge  themselves 
as  they  rust.  The  recipe  is  simple,  iron  filings  or 
turnings  and  water  calked  into  the  crack  to  be  filled. 

CEMENT— IRON. 

Ii'on  cement  which  will  stand  red  heat  is  composed 
of  Hessian  crucibles  1  part,  iron  filings  4  parts.  Mix 
these  ingredients  and  wet  them  with  salt  water, 
taking  pains  not  to  add  too  large  a  quantity  of  salt,  for 
if  this  is  none  the  salt  would  fuse  and  run  from  the 
joints.  When  this  cement  is  used  for  joining  pipes 
designed  for  being  laid  in  the  fire,  it  is  placed  be- 
tween the  flange  of  the  pipes  and  pressed  together 
by  screws.  You  can  only  heat  it  when  it  is  hard  and 
dry. 


52  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

CEMENT— IRON,  FOR  HIGH  TEMPERATURES. 

An  iron  cement  for  high  temperatures  is  composed 
of: 

(1)  Iron  filings,  20  parts;  lime  powder,  45;  borax.  5; 
common  salt,  5;  permanganate  of  potash,   10.     The 
borax  and  salts  are  dissolved  in  water  and  are  then 
mixed  with  the  two  first-named  ingredients  as  quick- 
ly as  possible,  and  used.     This  cement  changes  at  a 
white  heat  to  a  glassy  mass,  which  is  perfectly  air- 
proof. 

(2)  Permanganate,  25  parts;  zinc  white,  25;  borax, 
5.    These  are  treated  with  a  solution  of  soluble  glass, 
and  used  at  once.    This  cement  must  be  left  to  dry 
slowly,  and  then  it  will  resist  the  highest  temperature. 

CEMENT-IRON  STOVE. 

For  cementing  iron  stoves,  make  a  paste  of  wood 
ashes,  10  parts;  burned  lime,  4  parts;  clay,  10  parts. 

CEMENT— JEWELERS'. 

A  receipt  for  jewelers'  cement,  often  called  Arme- 
nian cement,  is  at  follows:  Five  pieces  of  gum  mastic, 
about  as  large  as  a  large  pea,  are  dissolved  in  a  suffi- 
cient quantity  of  spirits  of  wine  to  make  the  mass 
liquid.  Separately,  isinglass  which  has  been  softened 
in  water  (though  none  of  the  water  must  be  used)  is 
dissolved  in  rum,  enough  being  dissolved  to  make  a 
2-ounce  phial  of  a  very  tenacious  glue;  2  little  pieces 
of  gum  ammoniac  being  added,  which  must  be  rubbed 
or  ground  until  its  dissolution.  The  entire  mass  then 
to  be  mixed  to  a  sufficient  heat.  This  cement  is  to  be 
kept  in  a  phial  closely  stoppered,  and  said  phial  is  to 
be  placed  in  boiling  water  when  it  is  to  be  used.  This 
cement  will  unite  almost  all  substances,  being  prac- 
tically the  only  cement  for  glass  and  polished  steel. 

CEMENT— JOINT. 

(1)  For  a  joint  cement,  mix  equal  parts  of  red  lead 
and  white  lead,  adding  enough  boiled  linseed-oil  to 
give  it  the  right  consistency. 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  53 

(2)  Make  a  soft  putty  of  finely-powdered  red  lead 
with  ground  lead. 

CEMENT— METAL. 

Is  composed  of  antimony  (3  parts),  lead  (8  parts), 
bismuth  (1  part). 

CEMENT-OIL. 

The  oil  cements  require  two  or  three  years  to  set. 
The  best  cement  of  this  kind  is  composed  of  pure 
white  lead  ground  in  linseed  oil  varnish,  and  kept 
from  the  air  in  close  stoppered  bottles  or  packages. 

CEMENT-RUST  FOR  IRON. 

Rust  cement  for  iron  is  made  as  follows:  W  rough  t- 
iron  filings,  65  parts;  sal-ammoniac,  2y2  parts;  sul- 
phur (flour),  1%  parts;  sulphuric  acid,  1  part.  The 
solid  ingredients  are  mixed  dry,  sulphuric  acid  di- 
luted with  sufficient  water  being  then  added.  This 
cement  dries  after  two  or  three  days,  and  unites  with 
the  iron,  making  a  very  resisting  and  solid  mass. 

CEMENTS— RUST-JOINT. 

(1)  Cement  for  setting  quickly:    1  part  (by  weight) 
sal-ammoniac  in  powder;  2  parts  flour  of  sulphur;  80 
parts  iron  borings;  made  to  a  paste  with  water. 

(2)  Cement  for  slowly  setting,  but  better  than  the 
above  if  it  has  time  to  set,  is  made  from  the  same 
material   but  in  different  proportions;   2   parts   sal- 
ammoniac;  1  part  flour  of  sulphur;  200  parts  iron 
borings. 

CEMENT— STEPHENSON'S    OIL. 

Stephenson's  oil  cement,  which  must  be  used  short- 
ly after  it  is  made,  is  composed  of  lime  fallen  to  a 
powder  1  part,  fine  sand  1  part,  litharge  2  parts, 
stirred  into  a  paste  with  hot  linseed  oil. 

CEMENT— "STONE." 

To  make  "Stone"  cement,  take  an  ordinary  resin 
and  powder  coarsely  so  as  to  melt  easily;  use  of  the 


f>4  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

resin,  1  ounce;  yellow  wax,  1  ounce;  Venetian  red,  1 
ounce.  Melt  the  resin,  then  add  the  wax,  and  lastly, 
stir  in  the  Venetian  red.  This  cement  may  be  "pulled" 
into  sticks  and  used  by  melting  into  place  with  a  hot 
iron  on  the  piece  of  iron  or  stone,  or  both,  if  conve- 
nient, may  be  heated  hot  enough  to  melt  the  cement; 
then,  if  held  in  position  until  the  cement  is  cold,  they 
will  be  found  strongly  fixed  together. 

CEMENT-STOVE. 

Litharge,  2  parts;  powdered  slaked  lime,  1  part: 
sand,  1  part.  Mix  the  mass  with  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  hot  linseed  oil  varnish  to  form  a  stiff  paste. 
This  cement  must  be  used  while  fresh  and  warm. 

CHILLING  IRON  VERY  HARD. 

To  chill  iron  very  hard,  use  a  liquid  made  as  fol- 
lows: Soft  water,  10  gallons;  salt,  1  peck;  oil  of  vitriol, 
%  pint;  saltpetre,  y2  pound;  prussiate  of  potash,  14 
pound;  cyanide  of  potash.  y4  pound.  Heat  the  iron  a 
cherry  red  and  dip  as  usual;  if  not  sufficiently  hard 
repeat  the  process. 

CHLORIDE  OF  GOLD. 

Chloride  of  gold  is  prepared  by  the  dissolution  of 
finely  laminated  gold  in  aqua  regia. 

CHLORIDE  OF  PLATINUM. 

Chloride  of  platinum  is  prepared  much  like  chloride 
of  gold,  but  the  aqua  regia  used  should  be  made  of  5 
parts  of  hydro-chloric  acid  and  3  parts  nitric  acid. 

CHLORIDE  OF  ZINC. 

Chloride  of  zinc  is  obtained  by  the  introduction  of 
zinc  into  hydro-chloric  acid. 

CHROME    YELLOW. 

Chrome  yellow  is  a  precipitation  made  by  mixing 
a  solution  of  potassium  chromate  with  lead  nitric. 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  55 

CHRYSOCHALK. 

Chrysoohalk  is  a  copper-zinc  alloy  composed  of 
90  parts  Copper, 
7  9-10  parts  Zinc. 

CHRYSORIN. 

Chrysorin  is  a  copper-zinc  alloy  composed  of  either 
72  parts  Copper, 
28  parts  Zinc, 

or 

66  7-10  parts  Copper, 
33  3-10  parts  Zinc. 

CHURCH  BELLS— REPAIRING. 

To  repair  cracked  church-bells  stf  that  their  tone 
will  be  as  good  as  new,  put  a  furnace  in  the  middle  of 
the  bell  so  as  to  heat  same,  and  after  fusion  of  the 
edges  of  the  crack,  pour  new  bell-metal  in  same.  The 
wall  of  the  bell  must  be  blocked  up  in  order  to  pre- 
vent the  escape  of  liquid  metal. 

CLEANING  BRASS. 

Acids  should  never  be  employed  in  cleaning  brass, 
as  the  metal  soon  becomes  dull  after  such  treatment. 
The  application  of  olive  oil  and  very  fine  tripoli,  fol- 
lowed by  a  washing  with  soap  and  water,  constitutes 
the  best  method  of  polishing  and  preserving  the  bril- 
liancy. 

(2)  Use  sweet  oil  and  whiting. 

(3)  To  clean  brass,  rub  the  surface  of  the  metal 
with  rotten-stone  and  sweet  oil,  then  rub  off  with  a 
piece  of  cotton  flannel,  and  polish  with  soft  leather. 
A  solution  of  oxalic  acid  rubbed  over  tarnished  brass 
soon  removes  the  tarnish,  rendering  the  metal  bright. 
The  acid  must  be  washed  off  with  water,  and  the 
brass  rubbed  writh  whiting  and  soft  leather.    A  mix- 
ture of  muriatic  acid  and  alum  dissolved  in  water 
imparts   a   golden   color   to   brass   articles   that   are 
steeped  in  it  a  few  seconds. 

(4)  The  government  method  prescribed  for  clean- 


56  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

ing  brass,  and  its  use  in  all  the  United  States  ar- 
senals, is  claimed  to  be  the  best  in  the  world.  The 
plan  is  to  make  a  mixture  of  one  part  common  nitric 
and  one-half  part  sulphuric  acid  in  a  stone  jar,  hav- 
ing also  ready  a  pail  of  fresh  water  and  a  box  of  saw- 
dust. The  articles  to  be  treated  are  dipped  into  the 
acid,  then  removed  into  the  water,  and  finally  rubbed 
with  the  sawdust.  This  immediately  changes  them 
to  a  brilliant  color.  If  the  brass  has  become  greasy, 
it  is  first  dipped  in  a  strong  solution  of  potash  and 
soda  in  warm  water;  this  cuts  the  grease,  so  that 
the  acid  has  free  power  to  act. 

(5)  In  cases  where  brass  cannot  be  successfully 
cleaned  with  oxalic  acid  it  should  be  rubbed  with 
potash  lye  and  then  plunged  in  a  mixture  of  equal 
parts  of  sulphuric  acid,  nitric  acid  and  water,  and 
then  washed,  rinsed,  dried  and  polished. 

(8)  To  remove  the  stains  of  iodide  potassa  and 
aqua  ammonia  stains  off  brass,  scour  with  a  mixture 
of  ammonia  water,  alcohol,  and  chalk.  For  delicate 
work  the  chalk  should  be  finely  levigated.  For  heavy 
work  powdered  bath  brick,  rotten  stone,  red  brick 
,dust,  or  Tripoli  in  sweet  oil  may  be  rubbed  on  with 
a  flannel,  and  the  article  polished  with  leather.  The 
government  method  has  been  to  dip  the  article  in  a 
mixture  of  two  parts  nitric  acid  and  one  part  sul- 
phuric acid,  immediately  removing  to  water,  and 
finally  rubbing  with  sawdust.  Grease  is  removed 
with  alkali. 

CLEANING  BRONZE. 

To  clean  bronze:  Take  1  ounce  of  oxalic  acid,  6 
ounces  rattenstone,  1  or  2  ounces  gum  arable  in  pow- 
der, 10  ounces  sweet  oil,  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
water  to  make  a  paste.  Apply  a  small  portion  to  the 
pan,  and  polish  with  a  flannel  or  piece  of  soft  leather. 

CLEANING  BRONZE  FIXTURES. 

Boil  them  in  ordinary  soap  boilers'  lye,  rinse  with 
water  and  roll  in  sawdust  or  bran.  When  the  bronze 
is  pressed  mix  the  lye  with  common  salt  and  brush 
the  article  thoroughly,  allowing  no  water  to  touch 
the  back. 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  57 

CLEANING  CHANDELIERS. 
To  clean  chandeliers  or  gas  fixtures  they  should  be 
taken  apart  and  the  separate  parts  boiled  for  a  few 
minutes  in  a  sharp  lye,  followed  by  their  cleansing 
with  a  soft  brush.  They  should  next  be  drawn 
through  a  strong  solution  of  potassium  cyanide,  then 
washed  in  a  large  boiler  with  hot  water,  dried  in  clean 
sawdust  and  then  polished  with  chamois  skin.  In 
some  cases  parts  should  be  lacquered  after  they  hare 
been  put  together  again. 

CLEANING  COINS  AND  MEDALS. 
To  clean  coins  and  medals  a  mildly  concentrated  so- 
lution of  potassium  cyanide  is  recommended.  When 
medals  or  other  small  silver  objects  are  to  be  cleaned, 
three  vessels  or  glasses  should  be  placed  side  by 
side,  two  of  which  are  filled  with  water  and  the  third 
with  a  solution  of  potassium  cyanide.  The  object  to  be 
cleaned  is  to  be  taken  up  with  brass  tweezers  and 
dipped  in  the  vessel  containing  the  potassium  cyanide. 
This  will  cause  the  brown  or  dirty  yellow  coating  on 
same  to  vanish  at  once.  The  medals,  or  other  ob- 
jects, are  then  to  be  rapidly  rinsed  in  the  second  and 
third  tumblers,  and  then  dried  with  a  linen  cloth. 
Articles  of  a  larger  size,  such  as  spoons,  candlesticks, 
chafing-dishes,  etc.,  are  treated  by  wetting  the  yellow 
places  with  a  small  tuft  of  cotton  thoroughly  moist- 
ened with  a  solution  of  potassium  cyanide,  then 
washed  and  dried.  The  modus  operandi  is  the  same 
for  gilded  articles. 

CLEANING   GOLDEN-BRONZE. 

To  cleanse  bronze  by  oil,  tallow,  fat  or  other  grease, 
boil  it  in  an  infusion  of  ashes  and  clean  with  a  soft 
brush  dipped  in  a  fluid  consisting  of  equal  parts  of 
nitric  acid,  alum  and  water.  Dry  each  piece  with  a 
rag,  and  heat  slightly.  When  it  is  desired  to  clean 
clock  pendulums  and  free  them  from  what  is  tech- 
nically known  as  "mercury  dust,"  they  should  be 
heated  slightly  and  the  stain  touched  with  a  brush 
dipped  in  nitric  acid.  Then  rub  with  a  linen  rag  and 
heat  moderately  a  second  time. 


58  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 


CLEANING   MARBLE. 

To  clean  marble  mix  2  parts  of  common  soda,  1 
part  powdered  pumice  stone  and  1  part  powdered 
chalk  with  water.  Rub  it  well  over  the  marble  and 
then  wash  the  marble  with  soap  and  water. 

CLEANING  OLD  BRASS. 

To  clean  articles  of  antique  brass,  such  as  sword- 
hilts,  mountings,  etc.,  dip  them  in  a  compound  of  % 
part  sulphuric  acid  and  1  part  nitric  acid.  After  a 
brief  immersion  take  them  out,  rinse  thoroughly  in 
cold  water,  dry  in  sawdust  and  then  polish  with 
finely  pulverized  Vienna  lime. 

GLEANING  POLISHING  LEATHER. 

To  clean  polishing  leather  prepare  a  weak  solution 
of  soda  in  warm  water,  rub  soap  on  polishing  leather 
and  allow  same  to  soak  for  several  hours.  Then 
wash  thoroughly  and  rinse  in  a  solution  of  soda  and 
yellow  soap  water  to  keep  it  soft.  If  washed  in  water 
alone  the  leather  becomes  too  hard  to  use,  but  the 
small  amount  of  soap  remaining  in  the  fibre  of  the 
leather  penetrates  it,  making  it  soft  as  silk.  When 
it  has  been  rinsed,  wring  the  weather  in  a  coarse 
towel  and  dry  quickly.  When  dry,  pull  it  in  every 
direction  and  brush  well.  This  will  give  a  very  soft 
leather. 

CLEANING  SCREWS  OF  RUST. 

To  clean  screws  that  are  not  large  enough  to  be 
treated  separately,  put  them  in  a  small  box,  pour  a 
little  oil  over  them  and  shake  for  a  minute.  Next 
place  cotton  waste  in  the  box  and  shake  again  for  a 
minute.  Then  put  a  handful  of  sawdust  in  the  box 
and  shake  again  for  a  minute,  removing  sawdust  by 
sifting  it  from  the  screws  in  a  fine  sieve. 

CLEANING  SILVER  DIAL  PLATES. 

To  clean  silver  dial  plates  of  clocks,  which  have  lost 
their  bright  surface  from  the  effect  of  smoke  or  sul- 
phurous vapors,  make  pulverized  tartar  into  a  paste 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPT^.  59 

with  water.  Some  of  this  paste  is  taken  on  a  bristly 
brush  and  the  dial  plate  is  rubbed,  being  whirled 
until  the  silvering  assumes  again  its  original  white- 
ness and  lustre.  Then  the  dial  plate  is  to  be  washed 
with  clean  water  and  dried  by  mildly  patting  it  with 
a  cloth,  the  final  step  being  its  exposure  to  a  moderate 
heat  for  a  few  minutes. 

CLEANING  SILVER  ORNAMENTS. 

To  clean  silver  ornaments,  first  wash  article  in  a 
bath  of  soda  lye,  then  use  either  a  boiling  hot  solu- 
tion of  tartar,  or  enwrap  them  with  zinc  wire,  boiling 
them  in  a  fluid  consisting  of  1  part  of  borax  dis- 
solved in  10  parts  of  water. 

CLEANING  SOLDER  FROM  OLD  FILES. 

The  best  way  to  clean  solder  from  old  files  is  to 
soak  the  file  in  raw  muriatic  acid  for  twenty-four 
hours,  and  you  will  have  almost  a  new  file. 

CLEANING   TINWARE. 

To  clean  tinware  use  Canton  flannel,  with  a  little 
alcohol  sprinkled  on  it,  and  some  whiting. 

(2)  To  clean  tinware  which  has  been  stained  by 
using  acid  when  soldering,  rub  the  article  first  with 
rotten  stone  and  sweet  oil,  then  finish  with  whiting 
and  a  piece  of  soft  leather. 

CLICHE  METAL 

Is  composed  of  tin  (36  parts),  lead  (50  parts),  cadmium 
(22  5-10  parts);  or,  tin  (48  parts),  lead  (32y2  parts), 
cadmium  (10^  parts),  bismuth  (9  parts). 

COATING  ALUMINUM. 

The  processes  ordinarily  used  for  covering  metals 
with  zinc,  tin  and  lead  have  not,  up  to  the  present, 
appeared  to  be  applicable  to  aluminum.  When  a 
plate  of  aluminum,  mechanically  or  chemically 
cleaned,  is  immersed  in  melted  tin,  zinc  or  lead,  these 
metals  slide  over  the  surface  of  the  aluminum  with- 


60  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

out  alloying  therewith.  In  order  to  fix  the  above- 
named  metals,  it  suffices  to  submit  the  surface  of  the 
aluminum  to  a  vigorous  brushing  in  the  metallic 
bath.  For  this  purpose  a  steel  brush  or  any  other  an- 
alogous instrument  may  be  used.  Under  such  circum- 
stances the  aluminum  becomes  covered  with  a  regu- 
lar layer  of  the  melted  metal.  The  success  of  the  op- 
eration was  due,  it  appears,  not  to  the  want  of  affin- 
ity of  the  aluminum  for  the  metals  in  question,  but  to 
the  immediate  formation  in  contact  with  the  air,  of  a 
thin  stratum  of  oxide  of  aluminum,  which  friction  re- 
moves. 

(2)  To  coat  aluminum  with  other  metals:  Dip  the 
aluminum  in  a  solution  of  caustic  potash  or  soda,  or 
of  hydro-chloric  acid,  until  bubbles  of  gas  make  their 
appearance  on  its  surface,  whereupon  it  is  dipped  in- 
to a  solution  of  corrosive  sublimate  to  amalgamate 
its  surface.  After  a  second  dipping  into  the  potash 
solution  until  bubbles  of  gas  are  evolved,  the  metal 
is  placed  in  a  solution  of  a  salt  of  the  de»ired  metal — 
for  instance,  bluestone  for  copper,  and  lunar  caustic 
for  silver.  A  film  of  the  metal  is  rapidly  formed, 
and  is  so  firml-y  adherent  that,  in  the  case  of  silver, 
gold  or  copper,  the  plate  can  be  rolled  out  or  polished. 
When  coating  with  gold  or  coppei*,  it  is  best  to  first 
apply  a  layer  of  silver.  When  thus  treated  the 
aluminum  may  be  soldered  with  ordinary  zinc  solder. 

COATING  IRON  WITH  COPPER. 

(1)  Iron  can  be  coppered  by  dipping  it  into  melted 
copper,  the  surface  of  which  is  protected  by  a  melted 
layer  of  cryolite  and  phosphoric  acid. 

(2)  To  coat  iron  with  copper  consists   in  dipping 
the  article  in  a  solution  of  oxalate  of  copper  and  bi- 
carbonate of   soda,   dissolved   in   10  or   15  parts  of 
water  acidified  with  some  organic  acid. 

COATING  SURFACES  WITH  GLASS. 

The  following  is  the  method  for  coating  metal  sur- 
faces with  glass,  which  may  be  found  to  answer 
various  purposes.  Take  about  125  parts  (by  weight) 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  61 

of  ordinary  flint  glass  fragments,  20  parts  of  carbon- 
ate of  soda,  and  12  parts  of  boracic  acid,  and  melt. 
Pour  the  fused  mass  out  on  some  cold  surface,  as  of 
stone  of  metal,  and  pulverize  when  cooled  off.  Make 
a  mixture  of  this  powder  with  silicate  of  soda. 

COATING  WITH  ZINC. 

For  coating  with  zinc  large  pieces  that  cannot  con- 
veniently be  put  in  a  bath:  Mix  powdered  zinc  with 
linseed  oil  and  a  dryer  so  as  to  make  a  kind  of  paint 
that  can  be  applied  with  a  brush.  One  coating  will 
prevent  oxidation,  but  two  are  advisable. 

COATING  CAST-BRONZE. 

To  coat  cast-bronze  goods  use  a  lacquer  consisting 
of  shellac  dissolved  in  alcohol  with  a  little  camphor 
added.  Another  good  lacquer  consists  of  1  part  shal- 
lac  dissolved  in  8  or  10  of  alcohol,  to  which  the  addi- 
tion is  made  of  1  to  4  parts  of  camphor,  and  rubbed 
up  with  a  few  drops  of  lavender. 

COATING  CAST-IRON  A  GLOSSY  BLACK. 

To  coat  cast-iron  a  glossy  black  color  that  will  stand 
washing  and  heat,  take  oil  of  turpentine  and  add  to  it 
strong  sulpuric  acid,  drop  by  drop,  while  stirring, 
until  a  syrupy  precipitate  is  formed  and  no  more  of 
it  is  produced  on  further  addition  of  a  drop  of  acid. 
The  liquid  is  now  repeatedly  washed  away  with 
water,  every  time  renewed  after  a  good  stirring,  until 
the  water  does  not  exhibit  any  more  acid  reaction 
with  blue  litmus  paper.  The  precipitate  is  next 
brought  upon  a  cloth  filter,  and  after  all  the  water 
has  run  off  the  syrup  is  fit  for  use.  This  thickish  de- 
posit is  painted  over  the  iron  with  a  brush;  if  it  hap- 
pens to  be  too  stiff,  it  is  previously  diluted  with  some 
oil  of  turpentine.  Immediately  after  the  iron  has 
been  painted,  the  paint  is  burnt  in  by  a  gentle  heat, 
and,  after  cooling,  the  black  surface  is  rubbed  over 
with  a  piece  of  linen  stuff  dipped  and  moistened  with 
linseed  oil. 


62  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

COATING  IRON  WITH  COPPER. 

One  process  of  coating  iron  with  copper  consists  of 
dipping  the  articles  into  a  melted  mixture  of  one  pint 
of  chloride  or  fluroide  of  copper  and  five  or  six  parts 
of  cryolite,  and  a  little  chloride  of  barium.  If  the 
article  when  immersed  is  connected  with  the  negative 
pole  of  a  battery  it  hastens  the  process. 

COBALTOUS  CHLORIDE. 

Cobaltous  chloride  is  obtained  in  blue  crystalline 
scales  by  heating  the  metal  in  chloric  acid. 

COLCOTHAR. 

Colcothar,  otherwise  known  as  sesqui  oxide  iron,  is 
a  by-product  in  the  manufacture  of  sulphuric  acid 
from  the  solution  of  ferrous  sulphate. 

COLORING  BRASS. 

The  pieces  to  be  operated  on  must  first  be  slightly 
corroded  by  placing  them  for  a  minute  or  two  in  di- 
lute sulphuric  acid.  They  are  next  rubbed  with  sand 
and  water,  washed  and  dried.  Brown  of  any  shade 
is  produced  by  dipping  the  pieces  in  some  solution  of 
a  nitrate  or  in  iron  per-chlorSde.  The  shade  depends 
on  the  concentration  of  the  solution.  A  chocolate 
color  is  obtained  by  roasting  with  moist  red  iron  oxide 
1  and  polishing  with  a  small  quantity  of  galena.  Black 
brass  for  optical  instruments  is  obtained  by  dipping 
the  brass  objects  in  a  mixture  consisting  of  solutions 
of  gold  or  platinum  and  stannic  nitrate. 

To  very  handsomely  color  brass  black,  mix  180 
grams  carbonate  of  copper,  400  grams  aqua  ammo- 
nia, and  400  grams  water.  The  cleansed  brass  arti- 
cles can  be  dipped  into  this  mixture,  frequently  with- 
drawn to  inspect  them,  rinsed  in  water,  and  dried  in 
sawdust,  and  the  process  is  repeated  twice;  the  arti- 
cles are  then  freely  rubbed  with  a  little  linseed  oil; 
the  cojor  will  then  be  that  of  ebony.  The  oil  process 
of  silver  is  somewhat  dearer,  and  another  of  dipping, 
hot,  into  nitrate  of  copper,  is  ruinous  to  delicately 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  63 

soldered  articles,  wherefore  the  first  mentioned  meth- 
od is  preferable. 

A  steel  color  is  developed  on  brass  by  using  a  boil- 
ing solution  of  arsenic  chloride,  while  a  careful  ap- 
plication of  a  concentrated  solution  of  sodium  sul- 
phide causes  a  blue  coloration.  Black,  being  gener- 
ally used  for  optical  instruments,  is  obtained  from  a 
solution  of  platinum  chloride,  to  which  tin  nitrate  has 
been  added.  In  Japan  the  brass  is  bronzed  by  using 
a  boiling  solution  of  copper  sulphate,  alum  and  ver- 
digris. 

COLORING   BRASS   VIOLET. 

To  give  a  violet  color  to  brass  dissolve  41/&  ounces 
of  sodium  hyposulphide  in  1  quart  of  water.  Then 
dissolve  1  ounce  3%  drachms  of  crystallized  sugar  of 
lead  in  another  quart  of  water  and  mix  the  solutions. 
This  mixture  is  to  be  heated  to  176  degrees  Fahren- 
heit, the  articles  plunged  in  same  and  moved  around 
constantly.  The  first  color  which  will  appear  on  the 
brass  subjected  to  this  bath  will  be  gold-yellow.  This 
will,  however,  soon  be  replaced  by  violet,  and  if  the 
article  remains  longer  in  the  bath  it  will  become 
green. 

(2)  Colors  of  similar  lustre  are  also  secured  by  the 
dissolution  of  1  quart  of  water  of  2  11-100  ounces  pul- 
verized tartar,  and  also  by  the  dissolution  in  y2  pint 
of  water  of  1  ounce  of  chloride  of  tin.  These  solu- 
tions are  to  be  mixed,  heated  and  the  clear  mixture 
is  poured  into  a  solution  of  6  34-100  ounces  of  sodium- 
hyposulphide  in  1  pint  of  water.  This  mixture  is  to 
be  heated  to  176  degrees  Fahrenheit  and  the  pickled 
brass  objects  plunged  therein. 

COLORING  COPPER  BLUE-BLACK. 

To  give  copper  a  blue-black  color  dip  it  in  a  hot  so- 
lution of  lli/i  drachms  of  liver  of  sulphur  in  1  quart 
of  water,  stirring  same  constantly  but  gently.  If  a 
blue-gray  shade  is  desired  the  solution  must  be  di- 
luted more. 


64  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

COLORING  COPPER  BROWN. 

The  method  of  coloring  copper  brown  is  as  follows: 
As  a  corrosive,  a  liquid  is  used  which  is  produced  as 
follows:  Ten  portions  by  weight  of  spirits  of  am- 
rnonia  mixed  with  an  equal  amount  of  vinegar,  so 
that  a  piece  of  blue  litmus  paper  dipped  into  it  will 
be  colored  red,  and  to  this  mixture,  which  is  acetate 
of  ammonia,  are  to  be  added  5  parts  of  verdigris  and 
3  parts  of  ammonia.  By  means  of  this  mixture  large 
objects  that  you  wish  to  color  should,  after  being 
carefully  cleaned  of  grease  and  rust,  be  painted  with 
a  soft  brush  and  then  left  to  dry  in  a  warm  room. 
By  repeating  this  application  with  the  brush,  you 
can  get  the  brown  in  any  shade  you  like.  Small  ob- 
jects should  be  boiled  in  the  liquid,  and  during  the 
boiling  should  be  stirred  with  a  tin  or  copper  spoon. 
After  securing  the  desired  color  they  are  to  be  washed 
in  hot  water  and  subsequently  dried  in  sawdust. 

COLORING  SOFT  SOLDER. 

In  order  that  solder  employed  for  soldering  copper 
may  have  the  same  color,  the  first  step  in  prepai-ation 
is  making  a  saturated  solution  of  pure  sulphate  of 
copper  and  the  application  of  the  same  to  the  solder. 
When  the  solder  is  touched  with  an  iron  or  steel  wire 
it  becomes  colored  with  a  copper  film  which  may  be 
augmented  at  pleasure  by  repeated  dampening  with 
the  solution  of  copper  and  touching  with  the  wire. 
If  it  is  desired  that  the  soldering  should  show  a  yel- 
low color,  2  parts  of  solution  of  sulphate  of  copper 
should  be  compounded  with  1  part  of  saturated  solu- 
tion of  sulphate  of  zinc,  the  mixture  applied  to  the 
coppered  place  and  all  rubbed  with  a  zinc  rod.  Should 
it  be  desired  to  gild  the  soldered  place,  copper  it  in 
accordance  with  the  above  description  and  coat  with 
a  solution  of  isinglass  or  gum  and  scatter  bronze 
powder  over  it.  This  foi'ms  a  surface  which  can  be 
polished  when  the  gum  is  dried. 

(2)  When  brass  is  soldered  with  soft  solder,  the 
difference  in  color  is  so  marked  as  to  direct  attention 
to  the  spot  mended.  The  following  is  the  method  of 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  65 

coloring  soft  solder:  First  prepare  a  saturated  solu- 
tion of  sulphate  of  copper  (bluestone)  in  water,  and 
apply  some  of  this  on  the  end  of  a  stock  to  the  solder. 
On  touching  it  with  a  steel  or  iron  wire  it  becomes 
coppered,  and  by  repeating  the  experiment  the  de- 
posit of  copper  may  be  made  thicker  and  darker.  To 
give  the  solder  a  yellowish  color,  mix  one  part  of  a 
saturated  solution  of  sulphate  of  copper,  apply  this 
to  the  coppered  spot,  and  rub  it  with  a  zinc  rod.  The 
color  can  be  still  further  improved  by  applying  gilt 
powder  and  polishing. 

On  gold  jewelry,  or  colored  gold,  the  solder  is  first 
coppered  as  above,  then  a  thin  coat  of  gum  or  isin- 
glass solution  is  applied  and  bronze  powder  dusted 
over  it,  which  can  be  polished  after  the  gum  is  dry, 
and  made  very  smooth  and  brilliant;  or  the  article 
may  be  electro-plated  with  gold,  and  then  it  will  all 
have  the  same  color. 

On  silverware  the  coppered  spots  of  solder  are  rub- 
bed with  silvering  powder,  or  polished  with  the  brush 
and  then  carefully  scratched  with  the  scratch  brush, 
then  finally  polished. 

COLORING  SOLDER. 

Dissolve  five  cents'  worth  of  sulphate  of  copper  in 
just  as  little  water  as  possible.  Solder  smoothly,  pol- 
ish very  bright  with  a  cloth,  and  with  a  stick  wet  the 
solder  with  the  solution  and  it  will  turn  copper-color. 
It  can  be  improved  by  polishing  with  bronze  powder. 

(2)  To  color  tin  solder  yellow,  it  is  best  first  to 
prepare  a  saturated  solution  of  copper  vitrol  in  water, 
dip  an  emery  stick  into  it  and  touch  the  soldered  part 
with  it.  Then  take  a  piece  of  wire  and  touch  the 
part  again  with  this,  by  which  a  coppering  takes 
place.  To  turn  this  yellow,  take  one  part  of  a  sat- 
urated solution  of  vitriol  of  zinc  in  water  mixed  with 
two  parts  of  a  copper  vitriol  solution,  brush  the  cop- 
pered spot  and  touch  with  a  zinc  rod.  A  brass  pre- 
cipitate will  result.  The  color  may  be  still  further 
improved  by  burnishing  with  gold  powder  and  polish- 
ing with  polisher. 


06  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

COLORING  SOLDER  LIKE  COPPER. 

When  copper  is  soldered  and  the  solder  is  to  be  col- 
ored like  the  surrounding  copper,  this  can  be  done  by 
moistening  the  solder  with  a  saturated  solution  of 
vitriol  of  copper,  and  then  touching  the  solder  with  an 
iron  or  steel  wire.  A  thin  skin  of  copper  is  precipi- 
tated, which  can  be  thickened  by  repeating  the  pro- 
cess several  times. 

COLORING  ZINC. 

Beautiful  and  durable  rainbow  colorations  are  im- 
parted to  zinc  by  a  very  simple  process.  The  zinc  to 
be  thus  treated  may  be  in  any  form,  cast  or  sheet,  the 
special  requisites  being  that  it  be  pure,  dry,  polished 
or  filed;  the  coloration  is  the  more  brilliant  according 
as  the  materials  of  the  bath  are  pure,  and  thus  the 
best  effects  are  obtained  with  chemically  pure  re- 
agents. The  bath  consists  of  30  grammes  tartrate  of 
copper,  40  grammes  caustic  potash  and  400  grammes 
distilled  water.  On  subjecting  the  zinc  to  the  action 
of  this  kind  of  bath  for  a  couple  of  minutes  it  appears 
an  agreeable  violet;  for  three  minutes,  a  deep  blue; 
four  and  one-half  minutes,  green;  six  and  one-half 
minutes,  a  golden  yellow;  eight  and  one-half  minutes, 
purple  violet. 

(2)  To  give  zinc  a  black  color  dip  the  article  in  a 
boiling  solution  of  3  17-100  ounces  sal-ammoniac  and 
5  64-100  ounces  pure  green  vitriol  in  4%  quarts  of 
water.  The  loose  black  precipitation  on  the  articles 
is  removed  by  means  of  a  brush  and  the  article  is 
again  dipped  in  the  hot  solution  and  then  held  over  a 
coal  fire  until  the  evaporation  of  ammonia  salt.  A  rep- 
etition of  this  three  or  four  times  gives  a  black  coating 
of  tenacious  adherence.  By  the  surpeusiou  of  zinc  in  a 
nickel  bath,  slightly  acidulated  with  sulphuric  acid, 
a  blue-black  coating  is  formed  without  the  employ- 
ment of  a  current.  The  same  result  can  be  secured  by 
dipping  the  zinc  articles  in  a  solution  of  2  11-10  ounces 
of  a  double  sulphate  of  ammonium  and  nickel,  and  a 
like  amount  of  sal-ammoniac  in  1  quart  of  water.  The 
article  assumes  first  a  dark  yellow  color,  and  then  be- 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  07 

comes  brown,  purple-violet  aud  indigo-blue  in  succes- 
sion, and  will  stand  a  slight  brushing  with  a  scratch 
brush  and  polishing, 

(3)  The  various  colors  on  zinc  are  obtained  as  fol- 
lows: To  give  it  a  reddish-brown  color,  rub  with  a 
solution  of  chloride  of  copper  in  liquid  ammonia.  To 
give  it  a  yellow-brown  shade  rub  with  a  solution  of 
chloride  of  copper  in  vinegar.  To  give  it  a  copper- 
red  color  immerse  the  article  in  a  bath  of  chloride  of 
copper  and  dissolve  in  spirits  of  sal-ammoniac.  To 
give  it  a  yellowish  tone  add  crystallized  verdigris. 
To  give  it  a  bronze  color  rub  it  with  a  paste  of  pipe- 
clay, to  which  has  been  added  a  solution  of  1  part 
tartar,  2  parts  crystallized  soda  and  2  parts  crystal- 
lized verdigris. 

COMPOUND    FOR   HARDENING   STEEL. 

A  valuable  compound  for  hardening  steel  consists 
of: 

1-3  Resin, 

1-3  Ammonium  Chloride, 
1-3  Borax, 
also  a  trace  of  Silicic  Acid. 

COPPERING  SHEET  IRON. 

Clean  the  article  thoroughly  by  a  treatment  in  a 
bath  of  muriatic  acid,  1  part;  water,  4  parts,  to  re- 
move all  scale.  Wash  in  hot  water  and  tumble  in 
sawdust  wet  with  a  solution  of  sulphate  of  copper  in 
water,  to  which  add  as  much  sulphuric  acid  as  is 
equal  to  the  weight  of  the  dry  sulphate  of  copper. 
Use  about  two  ounces  of  each  to  a  gallon  of  water. 
You  may  also  copper  work  that  cannot  be  easily  tum- 
bled by  dipping  in  the  above  solution  hot.  The  work 
must  be  clean  and  free  from  grease. 

COPPER  NITRATE. 

To  form  copper  nitrate  dissolve  the  copper  in  nitric 
acid,  concentrating  the  solution  in  a  copper  kettle. 

COPPER  POWDER. 
A  copper  powder  is  prepared  by  putting  a  strip  of 


68  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

sheet-zinc  iu  a  saturated  solution  of  blue  vitriol  com- 
pounded with  the  same  volume  of  hydro-chloric  acid. 
The  precipitation  of  the  copper  is  as  a  fine  powder, 
which,  after  the  supernatant  is  decanted,  is  washed 
first  with  a  weak  solution  of  alcohol  and  then  with  a 
stronger  one,  quickly,  to  prevent  oxidation. 

COPPER  RESINATE. 

Copper  resinate  is  produced  as  follows:  Dissolve 
8.55  kilogrammes  of  ammonia  soda  (18  per  cent.)  in 
J)0  liters  of  water,  and  heat  the  whole  to  a  boil.  Now 
throw  in  gradually  and  in  small  quantities  45  kilo- 
grammes of  good  resin,  stir  diligently,  and  allow  to 
boil  until  the  resin  has  completely  dissolved  and  has 
transformed  into  resin  soap.  Next  dissolve  23.4  kilo- 
grammes of  copper  sulphate  (blue  vitriol)  in  18  liters 
of  boiling  water,  and  pour  the  resin  soap  into  it.  The 
cupric  resinate  now  separates  as  a  thick  mass,  which 
floats  on  the  liquid.  Gather,  press  out  in  a  cloth,  and 
dry,  whereupon  the  resinate  will  be  ready  for  use. 

CORRECTING  BAD  SMELLS. 

To  correct  any  bad  smell  which  may  arise  in  a  tin- 
shop  place  coffee  in  an  iron  vessel  over  the  fire,  close 
all  doors  and  windows,  and  let  the  coffee  burn  until 
the  room  is  thoroughly  impregnated  with  the  same. 
Let  the  room  remain  closed  a  short  time,  and  when 
opened  again  it  will  be  fresh  and  wholesome  again  in 
a  few  minutes.  It  is  an  excellent  thing  in  cases  of 
sickness,  where  fevers  cause  offensive  smells. 

CORROSIVE  SUBLIMATE. 

Corrosive  sublimate  is  obtained  by  the  dissolution 
of  mercury  in  aqua  regia.  It  is  very  poisonous. 

COVERING  FOR  STEAM  PIPES. 

The  following  receipt  produces  a  cheap  and  simple 
non-conducting  covering  for  steam  pipes:  Four  parts 
coal  ashes,  sifted  through  a  riddle  of  four  meshes  to 
the  inch;  1  part  calcined  plaster;  1  part  flour;  1  part 
fire  clay.  Mix  the  ashes  and  fire-clay  together  to  the 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  69 

thickness  of  thin  mortar,  in  a  mortar-trough;  mix 
the  calcined  plaster  and  flour  together  dry,  and  add 
to  it  the  ashes  and  clay  as  you  want  to  use  it;  put  it 
on  the  pipes  in  two  coats,  according  to  the  size  of  the 
pipes.  For  a  six-inch  pipe  put  the  first  coat  about 
114  inches  thick;  the  second  coat  should  be  about  ty 
inch  thick.  Afterwards  finish  with  hard  finish,  same 
as  applied  to  plastering  in  a  room.  About  2%  hours 
will  be  required  to  set  on  a  hot  pipe. 

CRUCIBLES— THEIR   PREPARATION. 

A  refractory  crucible  can  be  made  by  compounding 
1  part  of  quartz  sand  with  2  parts  pipe-clay.  The  lat- 
ter, however,  must  be  very  fine. 

CRYSTALLIZING  TIN  PLATE. 

In  crystallizing  tin  plate  the  figures  are  more  or  less 
beautiful,  according  to  the  degree  of  heat  and  relative 
dilution  of  the  acid.  Place  the  tinplate,  slightly  heat- 
ed, over  a  tun  of  water,  and  rub  its  surfaces  with  a 
sponge  dipped  in  a  liquor  composed  of  4  parts  of 
aqua  fortis  and  2  of  distilled  water,  holding  1  part  of 
common  salt  or  salt  ammoniac  in  solution.  When- 
ever the  crystalline  spangles  seem  to  be  thoroughly 
brought  out,  the  plate  must  be  immersed  in  water, 
washed  with  a  feather  or  a  little  cotton  (taking  care 
not  to  rub  off  the  film  of  tin  that  forms  the  feather- 
ing), forthwith  dried  with  a  low  heat,  and  coated  with 
a  lacquer  varnish,  otherwise  it  loses  its  luster  in  the 
air.  If  the  whole  surface  is  not  plunged  at  once  into 
cold  water,  but  if  it  be  partially  cooled  by  sprinkling 
water  on  it,  the  crystallization  will  be  finely  varie- 
gated with  large  and  small  figures.  Similar  results 
will  be  obtained  by  blowing  cold  air  through  the  pipe 
on  the  tinned  surface,  while  it  is  just  passing  from 
the  fused  to  the  solid  state. 

(2)  Sulphuric  acid,  4  ounces;  of  water,  2  to  3  ounces, 
according  to  the  strength  of  the  acid;  salt,  1*4  ounces. 
Mix.  Heat  the  tin  hot  over  a  stove,  <theu,  with  a 
sponge  apply  the  mixture,  then  wash  off  directly 
with  clean  water.  Dry  the  tin,  and  varnish  with 
demar  varnish. 


70  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

(3)  Crystallized  tinplates  are  usually  prepared  from 
well-annealed  and  well-tinned  charcoal  iron  plates, 
rinsing  the  plates  with  dilute  nitric  or  nitro-muriatic 
acid,  and  then  with  water.  The  cleansed  plates  are 
dipped  for  a  few  moments  into  nitric  acid  or  aqua- 
regia  (nitric  acid  1.  muriatic  acid  3),  diluted  with 
from  one  to  three  volumes  of  water  heated  to  about 
180  degrees  Fah.,  and  after  a  moment's  exposure 
to  this  bath  removed  and  rinsed  in  running  water. 
This  is  repeated  if  necessary,  until  the  crystals  are 
properly  developed,  when  the  plate  is  finally  rinsed 
in  hot  water,  which  causes  it  to  dry  quickly  without 
rubbing.  The  plates  are  then  oiled  or  lacquered  to 
preserve  them.  Plates  which  have  been  heavily 
rolled  or  too  quickly  chilled  after  tinning,  do  not  af- 
ford a  good  crystallized  surface.  Hot  tannin  or 
strong  caustic  soda  solutions  can  also  be  used  to  de- 
velop the  crystalline  structure  of  tinplates. 

GUIVRE  FUME. 

Cuivre  fume  is  made  by  coloring  copper  blue-black 
with  a  solution  of  liver  of  sulphur,  then  rinsing  same 
and  brushing  with  a  scratch  brush,  this  making  a 
shade  lighter.  The  raised  portions  which  are  to  show 
the  color  of  copper  are  polished  on  a  disk  in  order 
to  remove  the  coloration. 

CUPRIC  CHLORIDE. 

Cupric  chloride  is  obtained  by  the  dissolution  of 
cupric  oxide  in  hydro-chloric  acid  and  the  subsequent 
evaporation  of  same. 

CUPRLC  SULPHATE. 

Cupric  sulphate,  better  known  as  blue  vitriol,  or  as 
sulphate  of  copper,  dissolves  in  4  parts  of  cold  water. 
To  obtain  same  dissolve  cupric  oxide  in  sulphuric 
acid. 

CYANIDE  OF  GOLD. 

Cyanide  of  gold  is  prepared  by  precipitation  of  a 
solution  of  chlorate  of  gold  with  a  solution  of  cyanide 
of  potassium. 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  71 

DEAD  BLACK  FINISH  ON  COPPER. 

To  give  a  dead  black  finish  to  copper  brush  same 
with  a  compound  of  1  part  platinum  chloride  and  5  of 
water,  and,  after  drying,  rub  with  a  flannel  rag  wet 
with  a  drop  of  oil.  The  copper  can  also  be  immersed 
in  a  solution  of  manganese  or  nitrate  of  copper  and 
dried  over  a  coal  fire.  This  operation  is  to  b'e  re- 
peated until  the  desired  color  is  obtained. 

DECORATING  ZINC. 

A  beautiful  and  permanent  dark  or  light  green 
coating,  resembling  enamel,  can  be  applied  to  all 
kinds  of  zinc  articles,  especially  those  made  of  sheet 
zinc,  in  the  following  manner:  Fifty  parts  of  hypo- 
sulphite of  soda  are  dissolved  in  500  of  boiling  water, 
and  the  solution  poured  at  once,  in  a  fine  stream,  into 
25  parts  of  strong  sulphuric  acid.  The  milk  of  sul- 
phur that  separates  will  soon  ball  together  in  lumps 
and  settle.  The  hot  liquid  containing  sulphate  of  soda 
and  sulphurous  acid  is  decanted,  and  the  cleansed 
zinc  put  in  it.  In  a  short  time  it  will  acquire  a  very 
brilliant,  light  green  coating  of  sulphide,  and  only 
needs  to  be  washed  and  dried.  By  exposing  it  re- 
peatedly and  for  a  longer  time  to  this  hot  bath,  the 
coating  grows  thicker  and  the  color  darker  and  more 
brilliant.  The  temperature  must  not  fall  below  145 
degrees  Fahr.;  when  it  does  it  should  be  'heated  up  to 
190  degrees  Fahr.,  to  obtain  a  fine  and  brilliant  de- 
posit. 

By  dipping  these  articles  in  dilute  hydrochloric  acid, 
1  of  acid  to  3  of  water,  sulphuretted  hydrogen  is 
evolved,  and  this  enamel-like  coating  loses  its  lustre 
and  gets  lighter  in  color.  Aqueous  solutions  of  ani- 
line colors  have  little  effect  upon  this  dull  surface, 
and  none  on  the  gray  brilliant  coating. 

The  effect  of  marbling  can  be  obtained  by  moisten- 
ing the  gray  zinc  and  applying  hydrochloric  acid  in 
spots  with  a  sponge,  then  rinsing  it  off,  and  while 
still  wet  flowing  over  it  an  acidified  solution  of  sul- 
phate of  copper,  which  produces  the  appearance  of 
black  marble.  As  the  zinc  has  generally  a  dull  sur- 


72  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

face  it  must  receive  a  coat  of  copal  varnish.  If  15 
grammes  of  chrome  alum  and  15  more  of  hyposulphite 
of  soda  be  added  to  the  above  solution,  the  article  will 
have  a  brownish  color.  The  above  can  all  be  applied 
to  articles  made  of  cost-iron. 

DELALOT'S  ALLOY. 

Delalot's  alloy  is  composed  of 

2  parts  Manganese, 
18  parts  Zinc, 
1  part  Phosphate  of  Lime, 
80  parts  Fine  Copper. 

The  copper  is  first  melted  and  then  the  manganese 
is  gradually  added,  and  after  its  complete  dissolu- 
tion the  phosphate  of  lime  is  added.  The  scoria  is 
removed  and  the  zinc  is  added  about  ten  minutes  be- 
fore casting.  The  fusion  from  the  manganese  will 
be  facilitated  by  the  addition  of  1  part  charcoal,  V*> 
part  borax  and  y2  calcium  fluoride. 

DELTA   METAL. 

Delta  metal  is  an  alloy  of  zinc,  iron  and  copper,  to 
which,  during  fusion,  phosphorus  is  added,  and  then, 
according  to  the  use  it  is  to  be  put,  further  additions 
of  tin,  lead  and  manganese.  This  metal  has  the  color 
of  a  gold-silver  alloy,  and  can  be  worked  either  hot 
or  cold.  You  cannot  weld  it,  and  it  is  soldered  with 
difficulty.  It  does  not  rust.  A  common  composition 
of  this  metal  is  as  follows:  Copper,  55  82-100  per 
cent;  lead,  76-100  per  cent.;  manganese,  1  38-100  per 
cent.;  iron,  76-100  per  cent.;  nickel,  6-100  per  cent.; 
zinc,  41  41-100  per  cent. 

DISCOVERING  LEAD  IN  TIN. 

To  discover  lead  in  tin,  a  small  bit  of  tin  is  detached 
and  put  into  a  watch  glass,  with  a  drop  of  nitric  acid 
and  two  or  three  drops  of  water;  the  glass  is  then 
gently  heated  over  a  flame,  and  when  the  solution  is 
complete  a  few  drops  of  water  and  a  concentrated  so- 
lution of  iodine  of  potassium  are  added,  when,  if  lead 
is  present,  a  yellow  precipitate  will  be  the  result. 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  T3 

DISTINGUISHING      CAST-IRON,      STEEL      AND 
WROUGHT  IRON. 

Brighten  the  surface  of  the  article  to  be  tested  by 
filing,  and  apply  a  drop  of  nitric  acid.  Allow  the  acid 
to  work  for  a  few  minutes,  -then  wipe  same  off  and 
rinse  with  water.  If  the  metal  be  wrought  iron,  a 
dead  white  or  ash-gray  spot  can  be  seen.  If  cast- 
iron,  a  deep  black  one.  If  steel,  a  brownishrblack 
one. 

ENAMELING  CAST-IRON, 

A  new  process  for  enameling  cast-iron  objects,  in 
which  the  principle  is  adopted  that  the  enamel  wall 
take  better  on  white  than  on  gray  iron,  as  the  latter 
contains  a  quantity  of  free  carbon  (graphite).  Sul- 
phur is  used  in  casting  which  will  unite  and  form 
sulphuret  of  carbon,  and  the  iron  is  covered  with  a 
skin  of  white  iron  where  exposed  to  the  action  of  the 
sulphur.  Ready-made  objects  are  painted  over  with 
sulphuric  acid  of  GO  degrees  Fahr.,  and  then  heated, 
by  which  means  the  acid  in  the  pores  acts  on  the 
graphite  in  a  similar  manner. 

ENAMELING  CASTINGS. 

The  formula  consists  in  treating  the  castings  with 
dilute  hydrochloric  acid,  which  dissolves  a  little  of  the 
metal,  and  leaves  a  skin  of  homogeneous  graphite 
holding  well  to  the  iron.  The  iron  is  then  washed  in 
a  receiver  with  hot  or  cold  water,  or  cooked  in  steam, 
so  as  to  remove  completely  the  iron  chloride  that  has 
been  formed.  Finally,  the  piece  is  allowed  to  dry  in 
the  empty  receiver,  and  a  solution  of  india  rubber  or 
gutta  percha,  in  essence  of  petroleum,  is  injected, 
and  the  solvent,  afterwards  evaporated,  leaves  a  hard 
and  solid  enamel  on  the  surface  of  the  iron  work. 
Another  plan  is  to  keep  the  chloride  of  iron  on  the 
metal  instead  of  washing  it  off,  and  to  plunge  the 
piece  into  a  bath  of  soda  silicate  and  borate.  Thus  is 
formed  a  silico-borate  of  iron,  very  hard  and  brilliant, 
which  fills  the  pores  of  the  metal  skin.  As  for  the 
chlorine  disengaged,  it  continues  with  the  soda  to 
form  sodium  chloride,  which  remains  in  the  pickle. 


74  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 


ENAMELING  IRONWARE  WITH  PORCELAIN. 

Ironware  is  enameled  with  porcelain  by  first  clean- 
ing the  surface  free  from  moulding  sand,  then  heating 
the  article  in  an  oven  to  a  low  red  in  the  dark,  or 
what  is  called  a  black  heat,  to  slightly  oxidize  the  sur- 
face and  free  it  from  grease.  Then  brush  the  pow- 
dered enamel  mixed  with  water,  and  dry  quickly. 
Then  bake  with  a  red  heat.  For  the  second,  or  fin- 
ishing coat,  brush  on  the  glazed  coat  and  treat  as  the 
first.  For  the  first  coat  make  a  mixture  of  66  parts 
calcined  flint  ground  to  a  powder,  34  parts  borax. 
Melt  these  together  and  pulverize,  then  add  12  parts 
potter's  clay.  Mix  the  whole  with  water  to  the  con- 
sistency of  paint,  and  apply.  For  the  glaze  coat  take 
15  parts  borax,  73  parts  powdered  glass,  12  parts 
soda.  Mix  and  melt,  then  pulverize  and  apply  with 
water.  Bake  at  a  red  heat. 

ENAMEL— TEST  FOR. 

To  test  the  enamel  of  ordinary  kitchen  utensils  for 
the  presence  of  lead,  apply  a  drop  of  concentrated 
nitric  acid  to  the  enamel  of  the  vessel,  first  carefully 
cleaning  same,  and  evaporate  it  until  dry,  with  a 
moderate  heat.  Then  wet  the  place,  subject  it  to  the 
action  of  the  acid  with  a  drop  of  sodium  iodide,  and  if 
there  is  lead  present  a  yellow  iodide  of  lead  will  be 
formed. 

ENGLISH  SILVER  SOAP. 

This  polish  is  made  by  the  dissolution,  in  2  parts  of 
water  (soft),  of  2  parts  of  Castile  soap.  The  resultant 
paste  is  stirred  into  6  parts  of  fine  whiting,  poured 
into  molds  and  cooled.  If  it  is  desired  that  this  soap 
should  have  a  rose  tinge,  substitute  for  the  whiting  2 
parts  (finest  quality)  white  tripoli,  1  part  jewelers' 
rouge  and  3  parts  pulverized  chalk.  Perfume  the 
soap  before  putting  it  into  ithe  molds  with  a  drop  or 
two  of  oil  of  Lavender,  which  gives  it  a  very  dainty 
odor. 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  75 

ENGLISH  STERLING  METAL. 

English  sterling  metal  is  a  copper-zinc  alloy  com- 
posed of 

66  2-10  parts  Copper, 
33  1-10  parts  Zinc, 
7-10  parts  Iron. 

ETCHING  LIQUID  FOR  STEEL. 
Mix  1  ounce  sulphate  of  copper,  y>  ounce  of  alum, 
and  ya  teaspoonful  of  salt  reduced  to  powder,  with 
1  gill  of  vinegar  and  20  drops  of  nitric  acid.  This 
liquid  may  be  used  for  either  eating  deeply  into  the 
metal  or  for  imparting  a  beautiful  frosted  appear- 
ance to  the  surface,  according  to  fhe  time  it  is  al- 
lowed to  act.  Cover  the  parts  you  wish  to  protect 
from  its  influence  with  beeswax,  tallow  or  some 
other  similar  substance. 

ETCHING  NAMES  ON  STEEL. 

With  equal  quantities  of  copper  sulphate  (blue 
vitriol),  sodium  chloride  (common  salt),  well-pow- 
dered and  mixed  together,  names  or  other  marks  can 
be  etched  on  steel.  The  wax  process  must  be  used, 
although  soap  will  answer,  or  any  other  substance 
not  coated  upon  by  acids.  Spread  the  beeswax  or 
soap  in  a  thin,  even  coating,  over  the  article  to  be 
etched,  and  with  a  sharp-pointed  awl,  write  or  draw 
the  design  upon  the  wax-covered  surface.  Every  line 
must  be  cut  cleanly,  and  every  particle  of  the  coating 
removed,  otherwise  a  break  will  appear  in  the  etched 
line.  When  the  drawing  has  been  made  satisfactory, 
put  a.  "tinker's  dam"  around  the  wax-covered  spot; 
this  is  done  by  rolling  out  a  piece  of  putty  into  a  long, 
thin  roll,  bend  it  around  the  wax-covered  spot  and 
press  it  lightly  down,  thus  making  a  little  reservoir 
to  hold  the  acid  or  other  corroding  substance.  Mix 
up  the  salt  and  sulphate  of  copper,  fill  inside  the  dam 
and  moisten  with  water  to  hasten  their  action.  When 
satisfied  that  the  etching  is  deep  enough,  or  tired  of 
waiting  for  it  to  work,  wash  off  the  corroding  mix- 
ture and  scrape  off  the  wax,  or  dissolve  it  away  with 
turpentine,  alcohol  or  naphtha.  If  the  etching  is  not 


76  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

deep  enough,  an  ink  roller,  such  as  is  used  on  print- 
ing presses,  may  be  passed  over  the  surface,  a  coat- 
ing of  ink  put  on.  This  will  prevent  any  acid  action 
upon  the  surface  thus  protected,  and  the  solution 
may  be  reapplied  until  the  etching  is  sufficiently 
deep.  If  successive  etchings  are  necessary,  the  plate 
should  be  rinsed  and  warmed  after  each  removal  of 
the  corroding  solution,  and  more  ink  applied  before 
another  lot  of  fresh  corroder  is  put  to  work. 

In  regular  work,  where  large  numbers  of  zinc  etch- 
ings are  made,  "dragon's  blood"  is  used  to  protect  the 
surface  instead  of  printer's  ink,  but  for  occasional 
work  ink  is  good  enough.  Nitric  and  sulphuric  acids 
may  be  used  for  etching,  and  the  effect  of  the  com- 
position described  at  the  beginning  of  this  article  de- 
pends upon  the  chlorine  and  sulphuric  acid  set  free 
by  the  combination  of  the  two  salts. 

ETCHING  ON  GLASS. 

For  etching  on  glass,  prepare  the  glass  by  warming 
it  and  rubbing  white  wax  over  it  until  the  surface  is 
covered  thinly.  Trace  the  design  through  the  wax 
with  a  pointed  instrument.  Pour  on  liquid  fluoric- 
acid  and  leave  to  act  upon  the  glass;  this  will  make  a 
clean,  transparent  cut.  To  produce  opaque  lines,  like 
ground  glass  or  frosted  work,  place  the  fluoric  acid 
in  a  lead  utensil  and  place  in  hot  sand,  or  in  some 
way  warm  the  acid  without  melting  the  lead  pan. 
Place  the  prepared  glass  over  the  pan,  and  the  fumes 
from  the  acid  will  act  upon  the  glass.  This  should 
be  done  out  of  doors  or  in  some  place  where  the 
fumes  will  not  be  inhaled.  A  simple  method  of  the 
process  is  TO  wet  the  prepared  glass  with  sulphuric 
acid  and  then  sprinkle  on  finely  powdered  flour  spar 
(Fluoride  of  calcium),  by  which  hydrofluoric  acid  is 
set  free  and  attacks  the  glass. 

ETCHING  ON  STEEL. 

The  process  is  similar  to  that  used  by  engravers. 
Acid  is  spread  over  the  part  to  be  etched,  then  the 
figures  or  name  is  cut  on  with  a  needle-point,  and 
the  acid  and  cold  bath  finishes  the  work. 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  77 

FASTENING  ASBESTOS  TO  IRON. 
To  fasten  asbestos  to  iron  use  billsticker's  paste; 
prepared  asbestos,  which  comes  in  cans,  will  adhere 
of  itself  when  it  dries. 

FASTENING  KNIFE  AND  FORK  HANDLES. 

A  material  for  fastening  knives  or  forks  into  their 
handles  when  they  have  become  loosened  by  use,  is  a 
much-needed  article.  The  best  cement  for  this  pur- 
pose consists  of  1  pound  of  colophony  (purchasable  at 
the  druggist's),  and  8  ounces  of  sulphur,  which  are 
to  be  melted  together,  and  either  kept  in  bars  or  re- 
duced to  a  powder.  One  part  of  the  powder  is  to  be 
mixed  with  half  a  part  of  iron  filings,  fine  sand,  or 
brickdust,  and  the  cavity  of  the  handle  is  then  to  be 
filled  with  this  mixture.  The  stem  of  the  knife  or 
fork  is  then  to  be  heated  and  inserted  into  the  cavity, 
and  when  cold  it  will  be  found  fixed  in  its  place  with 
great  tenacity. 

FASTENING  LEATHER  TO  IRON. 

To  fasten  leather  to  iron,  digest  one  part  of  crushed 
nut-galls  for  six  hours  with  eight  of  distilled  water, 
and  strain  the  mass.  Soak  glue  in  its  own  weight  of 
water  for  twenty-four  hours  and  then  dissolve  it. 
The  warm  infusion  of  galls  is  spread  upon  the  leather 
and  the  glue  solution  on  the  roughened  surface  of  the 
warm  metal,  the  moist  leather  is  pressed  upon  it 
and,  when  dry,  it  adheres  so  firmly  that  it  cannot  be 
removed  without  tearing. 

FASTENING   PAPER  LABELS  TO   IRON. 

The  place  where  the  label  is  to  be  put  is  rubbed 
with  half  an  onion.  The  label  is  then  stuck  on  with 
gum,  glue  or  paste.  The  firm  adherence  of  the  vege- 
table mucilage  of  the  onion  to  the  iron  and  its  com- 
bination with  the  paste  on  the  paper  prevents  any 
cracking  off.  This  will  also  stand  heat. 

FASTENING  ROOF. 
How  to  fasten  a  tin  roof  that  has  worked  loose:  Out 


78  MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS. 

tin  strips  about  1  inch  long  by  %  inch  in  width,  and 
use  %  inch  screws.  Lay  the  strip  of  tin  close  to  the 
seam;  after  scraping  the  paint  off  sufficiently,  punch 
a  hole  through  one  end,  put  in  a  screw,  turn  the  tin 
over  the  head  and  solder  well. 

FASTENING  TIN  DOWN. 

In  fastening  tin  down  which  has  become  loose,  use 
No.  7  screws,  %  inch.  Take  a  small  piece  of  tin  %  of 
an  inch  wide  by  1%  inch  long,  punch  a  hole  in  one 
end,  leaving  room  to  cover  the  screw  head  and  solder 
well.  Use  resin  and  hot  copper  to  take  the  paint  off 
in  good  shape  by  brushing  with  a  broom  while  hot. 
The  tin  holds  the  screw  better  than  solder  alone. 

FERRIC  CHLORIDE. 

Ferric  chloride  is  made  by  the  addition  of  chlorine 
water  to  a  solution  of  ferrous  chloride.  I  can  also  be 
made  by  the  dissolution  of  ferric  oxide  in  hydra-chlo- 
ric acid.  If  placed  in  water,  it  dissolves  into  a  yellow 
fluid. 

FERRIC  OXIDE. 

For  polishing  purposes  Ferric  oxide  is  used  both 
in  a  natural  and  in  a  prepared  state.  The  natural 
ferric  oxide,  such  as  specular  and  red  iron  ores,  hem- 
atite, etc.,  should  be  ground  fine  and  elutriated.  A 
common  form  of  ferric  oxide  is  found  in  the  polishing 
agent  variously  known  as  crocus,  colcothar,  jewelers' 
rouge  (or  -red)  or  caput  mortuum,  which  is  obtained 
by  heating  ferric  sulphate  in  a  preparation  of  fuming 
sulphuric  acid. 

FERRIC  SULPHATE. 

Ferric  sulphate  is  made  by  heating  5  parts  of  fer- 
rous sulphate  with  1  part  of  sulphuric  acid  and  15 
parts  of  water,  and  adding  to  the  boiling  solution 
nitric  acid  in  small  quantities  until  the  color  of  the 
fluid  changes  from  black  to  a  brownish-yellow.  When 
evaporated,  it  yields  a  pale-yellow  crystalline  mass 
which,  on  the  compounding  with  sulphuric  acid,  gives 
anhydrous  ferric  sulphate. 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  79 

FERRO-MANGANESE. 

Ferro-manganese  is  composed  of 

75  parts  Manganese, 
75  parts  Iron. 

FERROUS  CHLORIDE. 

Ferrous  chloride  is  made  by  the  dissolution  of  iron 
in  hydro-chloric  acid.  After  the  solution  is  evaporated 
pale-green  crystals  are  secured,  which  oxidize  in  the 
air  and  which  easily  dissolve  in  spirit  of  wine. 

FERROUS   SULPHATE. 

Ferrous  sulphate,  otherwise  known  as  green  vitriol, 
or  copperas,  is  made  by  the  dissolution  of  iron  filings 
in  dilute  sulphuric  acid.  When  the  solution  is  boiling 
hot  it  is  filtered  and  the  filtered  product  is  mixed 
with  spirit  of  wine,  upon  which  the  ferrous  sulphate 
will  separate  as  a  fine,  white,  crystalline  meal,  which 
is  washed  with  spirit  of  wine  and  rapidly  dried  be- 
tween blotting  papers. 

FILING  CAST-IRON,  BRONZE  OR  BRASS. 

In  filing  large  surfaces  of  cast-iron,  bronze  or  brass, 
a  file  with  keen  cutting  teeth  is  required;  use  a  new 
file  on  such  surfaces.  On  narrow  surfaces  a  file  *hnt 
is  partly  worn  can  be  used  with  about  as  good  effect 
as  a  new  file.  When  a  file  is  so-called  worn  out  on 
brass  or  soft  metal,  it  is  in  pretty  good  condition  to 
be  used  on  steel  or  iron.  Many  mechanics  prefer 
such  files  to  new  ones. 

FIRE  BRICK. 

A  good  lining  for  stoves  may  be  made  by  pulver- 
izing old  brick,  or  any  fire  brick,  and  mixing  with 
this  sufficient  clay  to  make  it  plastic.  Before  making 
a  coal  fire  dry  out  the  water.  The  coal  fire  will  bake 
and  make  a  solid  fire  brick  lining  of  your  plastic 
back. 


80  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

FIRE   EXTINGUISHER. 

Bicarbonate  of  ammonia  and  sulphate  of  soda  in 
strong  solution  is  the  best  compound  to  put  in  bottles 
for  hand-grenades  to  extinguish  fire. 

FLUX  FOR  HARD  SOLDERS. 

The  best  flux  for  hard  solders  is  a  soldering  fluid 
consisting  of  hydrochloric  acid  (spirit  of  salt),  satur- 
ated with  zinc.  To  prepare  this  flux  put  y2  pint  of 
muriatic  acid  (also  called  spirits  of  salts  and  hydro- 
chloric acid)  into  a  glass,  and  add  small  pieces  of 
clean  zinc,  which  will  be  dissolved  by  the  acid.  Let 
it  stand  for  several  hours,  till  the  acid  has  ceased  to 
act;  then  add  a  small  quantity  of  water,  say  a  wine- 
glassful,  when  boiling  will  recommence.  Let  it  stand 
undisturbed  for  a  few  hours,  and  again  add  a  small 
quantity  of  water.  Continue  this  until  the  quantity 
of  water  added  equals  that  of  the  acid  (y*  pint).  When 
all  action  has  ceased,  add  1  ounce  of  sal-ammoniac; 
let  it  stand  twelve  hours,  then  decant  the  clear  liquid 
into  a  bottle,  which  should  be  kept  well  fastened 
when  not  in  use.  Throw  away  the  sediment,  and 
add  a  little  sal-ammoniac. 

FROSTING  BRASS. 

To  frost  brass  and  give  it  a  decorative  finish,  boil 
the  article  in  potash,  rinse  in  water,  plunge  in  nitric 
acid,  wash  again,  then  dry  in  hot  sawdust,  and  give 
the  still  hot  metal  a  coat  of  varnish. 

FROSTING  TINPLATES. 

This  is  done  by  heating  the  tinplate  until  rather  too 
hot  to  hold;  then  dip  in  a  mixture  of  hydrochloric 
acid,  1;  nitric  acid,  1;  water,  4.  Rinse,  dry  in  hot 
sawdust  (which  must  be  from  non-resinous  wood), 
and  lacquer— the  plate  being  still  hot  enough  to  do 
everything  at  one  operation,  as  it  were. 

FURNACE  LINING. 

A  good  compound  for  lining  furnaces  is  made  of 
10  parts  of  lime  and  90  parts  of  ganister.  The  lime 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  81 

is  first  burned  and  slaked,  and  the  addition  of  the 
ganister  is  made  twelve  hours  afterward.  The  addi- 
tion of  enough  water  for  the  required  consistency  is 
then  made  and  the  whole  intimately  mixed.  Line  the 
furnace  with  the  compound  and  dry  by  making  a 
moderate  fire  in  the  furnace. 

GALVANIZING  CAST-IRON. 

Thoroughly  clean  the  pieces  by  tumbling,  heat  them 
and  plunge  while  hot  into  the  following  liquid:  Ten 
pounds  hydrochloric  acid  and  sufficient  sheet  zinc  to 
make  a  saturated  solution.  In  making  this  solution, 
when  the  evolution  of  gas  has  ceased,  add  muriatic, 
or,  preferably,  sulphate  of  ammonia.  1  pound,  and  let 
it  stand  still  dissolved.  The  castings  should  be  so 
hot  that  when  dipped  in  this  solution  and  instantly 
removed,  they  will  immediately  dry,  leaving  the  sur- 
face crystallized.  Next  plunge  them  while  hot,  but 
perfectly  dry,  in  a  bath  of  melted  zinc,  previously 
skimming  the  oxide  on  the  surface  away,  and  throw- 
ing thereon  a  small  amount  of  powdered  sal-am- 
moniac. 

Another  method,  given  more  in  detail,  and,  there- 
fore, more  useful,  is  as  follows: 

The  castings  are  first  to  be  cleaned  and  scoured  by 
immersion  in  a  bath  of  water  acidulated  with  sul- 
phuric acid.  The  strength  of  acid  required  for  this 
purpose  will  depend  somewhat  on  the  nature  of  the 
casting  and  the  amount  of  scale  to  be  removed.  It  is 
sufficient  for  us  to  say,  however,  in  this  connection, 
that  the  surface  of  the  casting  must  be  made  per- 
fectly clean  in  order  to  insure  satisfactory  results  in 
the  subsequent  processes.  They  may  be  scoured  with 
sand  and  water  or  scraped  with  a  tool  in  order  to 
make  sure  that  every  portion  of  the  surface  has  be- 
come clean.  After  the  parts  have  thus  been  cleaned 
they  are  thrown  into  cold  water  in  order  to  prevent 
oxidation.  Pure  zinc,  covered  with  a  thick  layer  of 
sal-ammoniac,  is  then  melted  in  a  bath  and  the  iron  is 
dipped  in  the  preparation.  In  removing  the  pieces 
they  are  raised  slowly  to  allow  of  draining,  and  are 


82  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

then  thrown  into  cold  water.  The  latter  is  done  in 
order  to  keep  the  surface  bright.  Where  the  parts 
are  very  large  it  is  necessary  to  heat  them  somewhat 
before  plunging  them  into  the  molten  bath  of  zinc, 
as  otherwise  the  presence  of  so  large  a  body  of  cold 
metal  would  chill  the  zinc  and  prevent  the  formation 
of  a  satisfactory  coating.  The  object  of  the  coat  of  sal- 
ammoniac  above  the  melted  zinc  is  to  prevent  the  waste 
of  zinc  and  also  to  act  as  a  flux  to  the  pieces  passing 
through  it  into  the  metal.  In  some  cases  the  sal- 
ammoniac  is  mixed  with  earthy  matter  or  sand,  in  or- 
der to  lessen  the  volatilization  of  the  sal-ammoniac, 
which  becomes  quite  fluid.  In  order  to  give  a  crys- 
talline appearance  to  the  surface  coated  by  the  zinc, 
sometimes  a  light  coating  of  tin  is  given  to  the  article. 

GALVANIZING  WITH  GOLD. 

To  galvanize  with  gold,  dissolve  a  little  gold  in  a 
mixture  of  muriatic  acid  and  aqua  fortis,  and  add  to 
it  2  parts  of  alcohol.  Copper  immersed  in  this  solu- 
tion for  half  an  hour  will  be  completely  galvanized. 

GERMAN  BRITANNIA  METAL. 

German  Britannia  metal  is  composed  of 

4  parts  Copper, 
24  parts  Ammonia, 
72  parts  Tin, 

or 

5  parts  Zinc, 

2  parts  Copper. 
9  parts  Antimony, 
84  parts  Tin, 
or 

6  parts  Zinc, 
10  parts  Copper, 
64  parts  Antimony, 
20  parts  Tin. 

GILDING— LIGHT— TEST  FOR. 

To  discover  if  any  metal  has  a  thin  gold  coating  or 
whether  its  appearance  is  due  to  a  gilding  lacquer, 


MANUAL  OF   RECEIPTS.  83 

clean  a  portion  of  the  article  which  you  desire  tested 
with  either  ether  or  alcohol  and  dissolve  same  in  ni- 
tric acid  free  from  any  trace  of  chlorine.  If  the  ar- 
ticle is  gilded,  the  layer  of  the  gold  floats  in  or  upon 
the  solution.  When  a  removal  of  the  varnish  coat- 
ings cannot  be  brought  about  by  ether  or  alcohol, 
treatment  by  chloroform  is  required.  To  make  sure 
of  the  presence  of  gold  the  following  test  will  be 
found  useful:  Completely  dissolve  the  article  to  be 
tested  in  nitric  acid,  dilute  resultant  solution  with 
water,  filter,  preferably  with  a  small  filter,  wash  out, 
dry  and  glow.  The  glowed  residue  is  treated  with 
the  aid  of  heat,  with  a  small  portion  of  aqua  regia 
poured  off  or  filtered,  as  necessity  requires,  and  the 
filtrate  evaporated  until  dry,  at  a  moderate  heat.  If 
there  is  gold  in  the  article  a  slight  lustrous  separa- 
tion of  some  will  be  seen  on  the  edges  of  the  vessel. 
Mix  the  residue  from  evaporation  with  from  12-100 
to  18-100  cubic  inches  of  water,  and  divide  the  re- 
sultant solution  into  three  portions,  which  are  to  be 
used  in  the  following  tests: 

(1)  Add  a  drop  of  concentrated  solution  of  proto- 
chloride;  if  there  is  any  gold  in  the  mixture  there  is  a 
resultant  dark-brown   separation. 

(2)  Add  to  mixture  a  drop  of  solution  of  ferrous 
sulphate;  the  presence  of  gold  gives  a  brownish  or 
bluish  separation. 

(3)  Add  oxygenated   water;   the  pressure  of  gold 
will  give  a  blue  separation. 

(4)  To  determine  whether  gold  or  alloys  have  been 
used  for  gilding,  a  solution  of  chloride  of  copper  will 
be    found    efficacious.     If   the   gilding   be   imitation 
gold,  a  touch  of  the  solution  gives  a  black  mark,  the 
copper  separating  out  through  the  zinc  in  the  yellow 
metal— there  is  no  such  discoloration  if  the  metal  be 
pure.    Another  test  is  a  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver, 
or  chloride  of  gold.     The  .first  of  these  will  give  a 
gray  or  black  spot  and  the  second  a  brown  spot,  if 
the  gilding  be  imitation  gold,  but  neither  have  any 
effect  on  the  genuine  metal. 


84  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

GLAZING  METALS. 

A  mixture  of  20  parts  of  carbonate  of  soda.  11  of 
boracic  acid,  and  125  of  broken  (flint)  glass  and 
melted,  and  the  mass  poured  out  on  a  stone  or  plate 
of  metal.  .When  cold  it  is  pulverized  and  mixed  with 
a  silicate  of  soda  (water  glass)  solution  of  50  degrees 
Fahr.  The  metal  is  covered  with  this  paste  and  then 
heated  until  it  melts.  This  enamel  is  said  to  adhere 
well  to  iron  and  steel. 

GLUING  CLOTH  TO  TIN. 

To  fix  a  metallic  to  a  soft  substance  requires  a 
tough  substance,  not  a  varnish,  nor  yet  a  glue,  but 
India-rubber  cement.  Warm  the  metal  and  rub  over 
with  the  cement,  and  when  yet  hot,  apply  the  cloth 
and  press  with  a  hot  flatiron. 

GLUING  LABELS  ON  TIN  BOXES. 

Labels  can  be  glued  on  tin  boxes,  etc.,  exposed  to 
moisture,  by  the  following  process,  and  they  will  not 
come  off,  even  if  dipped  or  allowed  to  remain  in 
water. 

The  white  of  an  egg  should  be  mixed  with  half  as 
much  water,  or  the  dessicated  albumen  of  commerce 
dissolved  in  two  or  three  times  its  weight  in  water. 
Apply  with  a  brush  to  the  surfaces  to  be  united,  then 
iron  with  a  very  hot  flatiron.  Several  layers  of  paper 
and  glue  thus  treated  will  render  any  box  or  any- 
thing of  the  kind  impermeable  to  water. 

GLUING  LEATHER  TO  IRON. 

To  glue  leather  to  iron,  paint  the  iron  with  some 
kind  of  lead  color,  say  that  and  lampblack;  when 
dry  cement  with  a  cement  made  as  follows:  Take  the 
best  glue,  soak  it  in  cold  water  till  soft,  then  dissolve 
in  vinegar  with  a  moderate  heat,  then  add  one-third  of 
its  bulk  of  pure  turpentine,  thoroughly  mix,  and  by 
means  of  the  vinegar  make  it  of  the  proper  consist- 
ency to  be  spread  with  a  brush,  and  apply  it  while 
hot;  draw  the  leather  on  quickly  and  press  it  tightly 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  85 

in  place.     If  a  pulley,  draw  the  leather  around  as 
tightly  as  possible,  lap  and  clamp. 

GOLD  BEATING. 

To  beat  gold,  put  same  into  a  stone  crucible,  melt 
and  pour  it  into  a  mold,  thus  giving  it  a  right  width 
for  rolling.  Run  it  through  rollers  whose  pressure 
is  such  that  a  bar  of  gold  1  inch  thick,  say,  and  about 
3  inches  long,  after  being  rolled  several  times,  be- 
comes a  strip  about  14  yards  long  and  as  thick  as  a 
hair.  These  strips  are  to  be  cut  into  inch  squares, 
which  are  put  into  a  receptacle  technically  known  as 
a  "cutch,"  made  of  180  skins,  3%  inches  square.  Vel- 
lum is  a  good  substance  to  use  for  these  skins.  Al- 
ternate the  gold  squares  and  the  pieces  of  skin  until 
the  "cutch"  is  filled  up.  Then  beat  the  cutch  for 
about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  with  a  16-lb  hammer, 
take  out  the  gold,  divide  it  into  quarters  with  a 
skewer  and  put  them  in  a  shoder.  The  skins  in  a 
shoder  come  from  the  bum-gut  of  an  ox.  each  animal 
furnishing  but  two  skins.  These  shoder  skins  are  4 
inches  square  and  the  gold  squares  are  alternated  in 
them  the  same  as  they  were  in  the  cutch.  After 
beating  them  for  about  one  and  a  half  hours,  with  a 
l(Mb.  hammer,  they  are  taken  out  and  quartered  with 
a  small  piece  of  reed.  Then  put  them  in  a  mold  until 
the  latter  is  filled  and  beat  with  a  7-lb.  hammer  for 
three  or  four  hours.  The  leaf  is  then  ready  for  trim- 
ming. It  will  be  observed  that  with  each  successive 
beating  the  length  of  time  becomes  longer  and  the 
size  of  the  hammer  smaller. 

GOLD   BRONZE. 

Gold  bronze  powder,  such  as  is  used  for  decorating 
furniture,  tinware,  etc.,  is  composed  of  bisulphate  of 
tin.  It  may  be  mixed  with  copal  varnish  for  appli- 
cation, 

GOLD  BRONZING  FOR  IRON. 

A  superior  gold  bronze  iron  is  obtained  by  the  dis- 
solution of  3  ounces  of  finely  powdered  shellac  in  1% 


80  MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS. 

pints  of  spirits  of  wine.  This  varnish  is  to  be  fil- 
tered through  linen  and  with  the  filtrate  you  must 
triturate  enough  Dutch  gold  to  give  is  a  lustrous  ap- 
pearance. Brush  the  iron  previously  polished  and 
heated  over  with  vinegar,  and  apply  the  color  with  a 
brush.  After  it  is  dry  coat  the  article  with  a  mixtvire 
of  copal  and  amber  lacquer. 

GOLD-COLORED  SURFACE  OX  BRASS. 

A  gold-colored  surface  on  brass  may  be  produced 
with  a  liquid  prepared  by  boiling  together  for  about 
fifteen  minutes  4  parts  of  caustic  soda,  4  parts  of  milk 
sugar,  and  100  parts  of  water,  to  which  4  parts  of  a 
concentrated  solution  of  sulphate  of  copper  should 
then  be  added  with  constant  stirring.  The  mixture  is 
then  cooled  to  67  degrees  Fahr.,  and  the  well-cleansed 
articles  are  immersed  in  it  for  a  short  time,  when  the 
gold  color  will  appear.  A  longer  immersion  results 
in  the  formation  of  a  bluish  green  tint,  and  a  still 
more  prolonged  action  causes  the  formation  of  iri- 
descent colors. 

GOLD— GENUINE— TEST  FOR. 

To  test  gold  for  its  genuineness,  dissolve  in  chlorine 
water  and  the  resultant  solution  will  possess  a  slight- 
ly yellowing  color. 

GOLD  SALT. 

Gold  salt  is  prepared  by  dissolution  of  8  parts  of 
gold  in  aqua  regia.  Two  parts  of  common  salt  are 
added  and  the  solution  evaporated  to  dryness.  A 
second  method  consists  in  the  dissolution  of  1  part 
gold  in  a  mixture  of  1  part  of  nitric  acid  and  4  parts 
of  hydro-chloric  acid. 

GOLD  STAINS  FOR  BRASS. 

To  give  gold  stains  to  brass  the  articles  are  to  be 
immersed  in  a  compound  of  I 

5^  drachms  damp  Carbonate  of  Copper, 

3  drachms  Caustic  Soda, 

2  ounces  Water. 
It  will  be  only  a  few  minutes  before  the  shades  of 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  87 

color  make  their  appearance,  and  by  watching  same 
the  appearance  of  the  exact  shade  can  be  observed. 
When  this  is  obtained  the  article  is  to  be  rinsed  in 
water  and  dried  in  fine,  soft  dust. 

GOLD  TO  PURIFY. 

To  purify  gold,  make  a  thorough  mixture  of 
1  part  Vitriol  (green), 
1  part  Sea  Salt, 
1  part  Alum, 
3  parts  Brickdust. 

Form  this  compound  into  a  paste  by  the  addition 
of  a  little  wine  vinegar,  and  place  the  gold  in  the 
center  of  it. 

GOLD  WARE-TEST  FOR. 

A  good  method  for  the  testing  of  gold  ware  is  pre- 
sented by  the  touchstone,  which  is  a  kind  of  black, 
Silesian  basalt.  When  you  draw  a  piece  of  gold 
across  its  surface  a  gold  streak  is  left,  which  is  un- 
affected by  nitric  acid  moistening  and  which  differs 
from  streaks  left  by  brass  and  other  base  alloys, 
which  rapidly  dissolve. 

GRAY  COATING  ON  ZINC. 

To  obtain  a  gray  coating  on  zinc  precipitate  ar- 
senic in  a  heated  bath  of  8  46-100  drachms  sodium 
pyro-phosphate  in  8  2-100  ounces  arsenious  and  1% 
drachms  of  98  per  cent,  potassium  cyanide  to  1  quart 
of  water.  Use  a  current  strong  enough  so  that  a 
strongly  perceptible  development  of  hydrogen  ensues. 

For  anodes  use  either  carbon  plates  or  platinum 
sheets. 

GRAY  COLOR  FOR  IRON  AND  STEEL. 

To  give  iron  and  steel  a  gray  color  first  polish  the 
article  and  then  coat  it  with  a  mixture  of  2  parts  of 
sulphuric  acid,  a  drop  or  two  of  acetic  acid  and  8 
parts  of  butter  antimony. 

GREEN  COATING  FOR  ZINC. 

To  give  zinc  a  dark  or  light  green  coating  dissolve 


88  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

50  parts  hydro-sulphite  of  sodium  in  500  parts  of 
boiling  water  and  immediately  pour  the  solution  into 
25  parts  of  sulphuric  acid.  This  will  cause  the  milk 
and  sulphur  to  separate  and  then  ball  together  in 
lumps  and  settle.  The  hot  liquid  containing  sul- 
phurous acid  and  sulphate  of  sodium  is  decanted,  and 
in  it  the  zinc,  first  cleansed,  is  placed.  It  will  not  be 
long  before  it  will  acquire  a  brilliant  light-green  coat- 
ing, which  only  needs  to  be  washed  and  dried.  The 
longer  the  exposure  of  the  zinc  to  this  hot  bath,  the 
thicker  the  coating  and  the  darker  and  more  brilliant 
the  color.  It  is  essential,  in  order  to  insure  a  fine  and 
brilliant  deposit,  that  the  temperature  should  not  be 
allowed  to  fall  below  145  degrees  Fahrenheit.  Dip 
the  articles  thus  treated  in  hydro-chloric  acid;  dilute 
1  part  of  acid  to  3  of  water  and  there  is  a  consequent 
evaporation  of  sulphureted  hydrogen,  and  this  enam- 
el-like coating  loses  its  lustre  and  becomes  lighter  in 
color.  This  dull  surface  is  not  affected  by  the  aque- 
ous solutions  of  aniline  colors.  If  you  desire  a  brown- 
ish-color for  your  article  add  15  parts  of  chrome  alum 
and  15  more  of  the  hypo-sulphite  to  the  above  solu- 
tion. 

GUM  COPAL. 

Copal  varnish  is  one  of  the  very  finest  varnishes 
for  japanning  purposes.  It  can  be  dissolved  by  lin- 
seed oil,  rendered  dry  by  adding  some  quicklime  at  a 
heat  somewhat  less  than  will  boil  or  decompose  the 
oil  by  it. 

This  solution,  with  the  addition  of  a  little  turpen- 
tine, forms  a  very  transparent  varnish,  which,  when 
properly  applied  and  slowly  dried,  is  very  hard  and 
durable.  This  varnish  is  applied  to  snuff  boxes,  tea 
boards  and  other  utensils.  It  also  preserves  paint- 
ings and  renders  their  surfaces  capable  of  reflecting 
light  more  uniformly. 

Tf  powdered  copal  be  mixed  in  a  mortar  with  cam- 
phor it  softens  and  becomes  a  coherent  mass,  and  if 
camphor  be  added  to  alcohol  it  becomes  an  excellent 
solvent  of  copal  by  adding  the  copal  well  ground,  and 
employing  a  tolerable  degree  of  heat,  having  the  ves- 


MANUAL  OP  RECEIPTS.  89 

sel  well  corked,  which  must  have  a  long  neck  for  the 
allowance  of  expansion,  and  the  vessel  must  only  be 
about  one-fourth  filled  with  the  mixture.  Copal  can 
also  be  incorporated  with  turpentine,  with  one  part 
powdered  copal  to  twelve  parts  pure  turpentine,  sub- 
jected to  the  heat  of  a  sand-bath  for  several  days  in 
a  long-necked  mattress,  shaking  it  frequently. 

Copal  is  a  good  varnish  for  metals,  such  as  tin;  the 
varnish  must  be  dried  in  an  oven,  each  coat,  and  it 
can  be  colored  with  some  substances,  but  alcohol  var- 
nish will  mix  with  any  color. 

GUN  METAL. 

Copper,  18  parts;  tin,  2  parts.    Melt. 

HAND  FIRE  GRENADES— SOLUTION  FOR. 

Bicarbonate  of  ammonia  and  sulphate  of  soda  in 
strong  solution  for  hand  grenades  to  extinguish  fire. 
This  compound  will  keep  indefinitely  without  losing 
its  active  properties  if  the  bottle  is  kept  well  corked. 

HARDENING  CAST-IRON. 

To  harden  cast-iron  mix  2  ounces  nitric  acid  and  2 
pounds  concentrated  sulphuric  acid  with  2^  gallons 
of  water.  The  article  is  to  be  plunged  into  this  mix- 
ture when  at  a  cherry  red  heat. 

HARDENING  COMPOUND  FOR  STEEL. 

A  compound  for  hardening  steel  consists  of  3  parts 
of  yellow  prussiate  of  potash  pulverized,  1  part  pul- 
verized borax,  1  part  pulverized  saltpetre  and  %  part 
sugar  of  lead,  all  intimately  mixed.  The  steel  to  be 
hardened  is  heated  to  a  red  heat  and  is  then  taken 
from  the  fire  and  .this  powder  scattered  over  it.  The 
steel  is  then  replaced  in  the  fire  and  after  being 
brought  to  the  requisite  heat  is  cooled  in  cold  rain 
water. 

HARDENING  COMPOUND  FOR  STEEL  AND 
WROUGHT  IRON. 

A  good  hardening  compound  for  steel  and  wrought 
iron  consists  of  the  following  parts,  all  pulverized 


90  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

and  mixed  intimately,  viz.:  One  part  each  of  saltpetre 
and  calcined  cow's  hoofs  and  yellow  prussiate  of  pot- 
ash, 1-30  aloes,  1-30  gum-arabic  and  *£  common  salt. 
The  compound  is  to  be  scattered  upon  the  wrought 
iron  at  a  white  heat,  and  steel  at  a  red  heat,  and 
thoroughly  burnt  in. 

HARDENING   COPPER. 

To  harden  copper  melt  same  with  1  to  6  per  cent,  of 
black  oxide  of  manganese  in  a  crucible.  This  is  to 
be  stirred  thoroughly  and  the  scum  removed  before 
it  is  poured  out.  The  same  method  is  to  be  used  in 
preparing  brass,  a  small  quantity  of  zinc  being  added 
to  the  melted  copper  and  oxide  of  manganese. 

HARDENING  MIXTURE  FOR  IRON. 
A  hardening  mixture  for  iron  consists  of 

1  Ib.     Yellow  Prussiate  of  Potash. 
y2  Pt.     Hydro-chloric  Acid. 

2  oz.    Charcoal, 
2y2  Ibs.   Bonedust, 
2     Ibs.  Rock  Salt. 

The  red-hot  iron  is  plunged  into  this  mixture  twice, 
being  heated  between  the  two  times,  and  then,  while 
yet  hot,  is  quenched  in  cold  water.  These  proportions 
may  vary  slightly,  and  at  times  it  is  well  to  add  a 
little  lime. 

HARDENING  SOFT  IRON. 

To  harden  soft  iron  wet  it  with  water  and  scatter 
over  its  surface  powdered  yellow  prussiate  of  potash. 
Then  heat  to  a  cherry  red  heat,  which  causes  the 
potash  to  melt  and  coat  the  surface  of  the  soft  iron. 
Then  immerse  quickly  in  cold  water  and  repeat  the 
operation.  A  white  heat  must  not  be  used,  as  this 
would  not  harden  but  oxidize  the  iron.  Care  must 
be  used  not  to  use  red  prussiate  of  potash  instead  of 
the  yellow.  It  will  not  answer. 

HARDENING  STEEL  PIANO-WIRE. 

To  harden  steel  piano-wire  first  heat  it  red-hot  and 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  91 

then  cool.    Next  plunge  same  in  a  bath  composed  of 

21  parts  Tin, 

26  parts  Antimony, 

12  parts  Zinc, 
1  part     Bismuth, 

40  parts  Lead. 

This  bath  should  be  heated  above  its  melting  point 
and  the  wire  should  stay  in  it  until  it  has  acquired  the 
temperature  of  the  bath.  The  time  which  this  takes 
varies  directly  with  the  thickness  of  the  wire. 

HARDENING  TOOLS. 

In  order  to  harden  tools  without  making  them 
warp  or  having  their  interior  become  too  hard  and 
brittle,  the  following  compound  will  be  found  de- 
sirable: 

500  parts  Peruvian  Bark, 

25  parts  Common  Salt, 

15  parts  Yellow  Prussiate  of  Potash, 

15  parts  Saltpetre, 

50  parts  Hartshorn  Shavings. 
100  parts  Black  Soap. 

Spread  the  soap  in  a  layer  39-100  of  an  inch  deep, 
then  scatter  on  it  the  pulverized  mixture  of  the  other 
substances  and  knead  the  paste  thus  formed.  Con- 
tinue this  kneading  until  the  mass  is  formed  into  a 
stick  about  2  inches  in  diameter.  Allow  this  com- 
pound to  dry  for  twenty-four  hours  before  using,  then 
care  must  be  taken  to  heat  the  cast-steel  article  only 
to  dark  red. 

Then  the  portions  to  be  hardened  are  coated  with 
the  compound  and  cooled  off.  When  this  is  done  the 
interior  as  well  as  the  portions  not  coated  remain 
soft  and  tough,  while  the  coated  portions  become 
hard  as  glass.  To  find  the  degree  cast-steel  should  be 
heated  for  this,  it  is  perhaps  well  to  experiment  with 
a  round  steel  wire,  about  y2  inch  thick. 

HARDENING  ZINC. 

To  harden  zinc  bring  into  the  melted  metal  from 
1  7G-100  to  3  52-100  ounces  of  sal-ammoniac  per 
pound. 


92  MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS. 

IMPROVING  THE   COLOR    AFTER    BRASS    HAS 
BEEN  JOINED  WITH  WHITE  SOLDER. 

If  brass  has  been  joined  with  white  solder  the  dif- 
ference of  color  invites  attention  to  the  part  where 
the  junction  has  been  effected.  This  may  be  ob- 
viated, it  is  said,  by  applying  a  saturated  solution  of 
sulphate  of  copper  to  the  solder.  If  the  place  is  then 
touched  with  a  steel  or  iron  wire  it  becomes  cop- 
pered, and  the  coating  of  copper  increases  in  thick- 
ness as  the  operation  is  repeated.  To  give  the  re- 
quired yellow  color,  one  part  of  saturated  solution  of 
sulphate  of  zinc  is  added  to  two  parts  of  sulphate  of 
copper.  This  mixture  is  applied  to  the  coppered  spot, 
and  is  rubbed  in  with  a  rod  of  zinc.  The  color  can  be 
further  improved  by  using  a  gilding  powder  and  by 
polishing. 

INK-CARMINE. 

To  make  red  or  carmine  ink  for  bookkeeping  pur- 
poses: Take  12  grains  of  carmine,  add  3  ounces  of 
aqua  ammonia  and  heat  gently,  without  boiling,  for 
seven  or  eight  minutes;  then  add  18  grains  of  gum 
arabic,  stirring  constantly.  Keep  well  corked. 

INK—COPYING. 

Ink  for  copying  without  a  press:  A  regular  copying 
outfit  is  desirable  and  most  satisfactory  for  this  pur- 
pose, but  not  absolutely  essential.  Mixing  a  little 
glycerine  into  the  ink  with  which  the  letter  is  written 
will  enable  the  letter  to  be  copied  by  laying  it  face 
downward  on  tissue  paper  and  rubbing  with  the  hand 
over  the  back  of  the  letter.  Perhaps  a  more  satisfac- 
tory way  is  to  prepare  a  special  ink  for  this  purpose, 
as  follows:  Heat  one  ounce  extract  of  logwood,  broken 
coarsely,  and  one  drachm  of  carbonate  of  soda  (crys- 
tallized) in  a  porcelain  vessel  containing  8  ounces  of 
rain  water  until  the  solution  is  of  a  deep  red  color; 
remove  from  the  fire  and  stir  in  1  ounce  of  glycerine, 
15  grains  of  neutral  chromate  of  potash,  dissolved  in 
a  little  water,  and  two  drachms  of  a  mucilaginous 
solution  of  finely  pulverized  gum  arabic.  The  im- 


MANUAL    OF   RECEIPTS.  93 

pression  of  th.e  letter  is  taken  on  thin  moistened  copy- 
ing paper,  at  the  back  of  which  is  placed  a  sheet  of 
writing  paper. 

INK  FOR  MARKING  TINWARE. 

A  good  ink  for  marking  tinware  is  composed  of  the 
following:  Reduce  asphalt  or  black  varnish  with  tur- 
pentine to  the  desired  consistency  and  keep  it  in  a 
corked  bottle.  When  you  use  it  shake  the  bottle  and 
hold  varnish  side  up  after  withdrawing  the  cork. 

Another  ink  can  be  made  by  reducing  shellac  var- 
nish with  alcohol  and  adding  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
lampblack.  This  forms  a  jet  black,  lusterless  ink, 
which  is  insoluble  in  water,  but  can  be  removed  by  a 
drop  of  alcohol.  For  marking  on  tin  plates,  mix  to- 
gether, without  the  use  of  heat,  1  part  of  pine  soot 
with  60  parts  of  solution  of  nitrate  of  copper  in 
water. 

INK  FOR  RUBBER  STAMPS. 

Rubber  stamps  are  now  in  universal  use  for  busi- 
ness purposes,  and  are  used  with  inks  of  various  col- 
ors. These  inks  anyone  may  make  for  himself.  They 
are  usually  prepared  by  dissolving  aniline  colors  in 
water  and  adding  glycerine.  An  excellent  blue  rub- 
ber stamp  ink  is  made  of  three  parts  aniline  blue  1  B., 
10  parts  distilled  water,  10  parts  pyroligneous  acid, 
10  parts  alcohol,  70  parts  glycerine.  Rub  the  blue 
down  with  water,  add  the  glycerine  gradually,  and 
when  the  solution  is  effected  add  the  other  ingre- 
dients. Other  colors  can  be  substituted  for  blue  as 
follows:  Three  parts  methyl  violet;  2  parts  diamond 
juchsin  I.:  4  parts  methyl  green;  yellowing.  5  parts 
Vesuvian  B.  (brown);  4  parts  nigrosin  W.  (blue- 
black);  omit  the  pyroligneous  acid  and  use  3  parts 
eosin  BBN  for  bright  red. 

INK  FOR  STENCIL  MARKING. 

A  fine  ink  for  stencil  marking  is  made  as  follows: 
Sulphate  of  manganese.  2  parts;  lampblack,  1  part; 
sugar,  4  parts;  all  in  fine  powder  and  triturated  to  a 
paste  with  a  little  water. 


94  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

INK  FOR  WRITING  ON  STEEL. 

To  make  ink  for  writing  on  steel,  tinplate  or  sheet 
zinc,  mix  1  ounce  of  powdered  sulphate  of  copper, 
and  y2  ounce  powdered  sal-ammoniac,  with  2  ounces 
of  diluted  acetic  acid,  adding  lampblack  or  vermil- 
lion. 

INK  FOR  WRITING  ON  TIN. 

An  ink  for  writing  on  tin  is  made  by  the  dissolution 
of  1  part  copper  in  10  parts  nitric  acid,  to  which  solu- 
tion 10  parts  of  water  is  added.  The  tin  should  be 
cleaned  with  dry  whiting,  and  the  writing  should  be 
done  with  a  quill. 

INK  FOR  WRITING  ON  ZINC. 

To  write  on  zinc  first  clean  the  surface  of  the  zinc 
by  rubbing  with  a  sponge  which  has  been  plunged 
in  dilute  hydro-chloric  acid  and  fine  sand.  Next  dis- 
solve 1  ounce  and  4  drachms  of  sal-ammoniac  and  1 
ounce  and  4  drachms  of  crystallized  verdigris  in  a 
pint  of  warm  water.  Filter  the  solution  after  it  has 
cooled  and  keep  it  in  tightly  corked  bottles.  After 
the  zinc  has  been  written  on  by  this  compound  it 
should  be  allowed  to  remain  in  water  for  a  few  hours, 
and  then  dried  and  used  without  varnish.  The  writ- 
ing should  be  (preferably)  done  with  a  quill.  Should 
the  zinc  look  greasy  or  should  the  writing  run  to- 
gether the  surface  should  be  cleaned  with  a  rag 
dipped  in  chalk. 

INSULATING  COVERING  FOR  STEAM  PIPES. 

Insulating  coverings  for  steam  pipes  is  made  by 
boiling  together 

1  Ib.    Rye  Flour, 
1  Ib.     Rice  Flour, 
1  Ib.    Treacle, 
1  Ib.    Cow's  Hair, 

with 

150  qts.  Water. 

to  which  mass  80  Ibs.  of  infusorial  earth  is  gradually 
stirred.     This  compound  should  be  applied  in  sev- 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  95 

eral  layers  to  the  slightly  warmed  pipes,  so  that  a 
layer  a  little  more  than  y2  inch  in  thickness  is  formed. 

(2)  Another  covering  for  steam  pipes  is  made  from 
asbestos  pulp,  cork  waste  and  felt,  filled  into  a  cast- 
ing surrounding  the  pipes. 

(3)  Another  compound  for  the  insulation  of  steam 
pipes  consists  of 

250  parts  Pulverized  Clay, 
300  parts  Fine  Ashes  from  Boiler  Flues, 
100  parts  Finely  Ground  Limestone, 
350  parts  Finely  Ground  Coal. 
These  are  to  be  intimately  mixed  with 
GOO  parts  Water, 

10  parts  Sulphuric  Acid  (of  50  degrees  Be.) 
and  after  the  addition  of  15  parts  of  hogs'  bristles  the 
compound  is  to  be  made  as  homogeneous  as  possible. 
Heat  the  article  to  be  covered,  and  then  gradually 
apply  this  compound  in  separate  layers  of  one-half  an 
inch  thickness  until  a  thickness  of  iy2  to  1%  inches  is 
obtained. 

INSULATION  FOR  ELECTRICAL  CONDUITS. 

A  good  insulating  material  for  electrical  conduits  is 
made  by  the  mixture  of  3-4  parts  finely  pulverized 
resin  with  66  parts  fine  glass  or  quartz  powder.  To 
this  compound  the  addition  is  to  be  made  of  26  parts 
of  either  beeswax,  spermaceti  or  paraffine  and  36 
parts  of  either  crude  or  boiled  linseed  oil.  The  pro- 
portions of  the  various  ingredients  should  be  in  ac- 
cordance with  circumstances.  If  the  compound  as 
intended  for  exposure  to  the  sun,  the  amount  of  wax 
used  should  be  small;  while  the  converse  is  true 
should  the  compound  be  employed  for  underground 
lines.  Another  insulating  material  for  electrical  con- 
duits is  made  by  constantly  stirring  in  a  boiler,  at  a 
heat  between  92  degrees  and  212  degrees  Fahrenheit, 

29  parts  Wood  Tar, 

36  parts  Shellac, 

32  parts  Asbestos, 

1  part    Mineral  Wax. 
Should  this  compound  be  insufficiently  hard,  a  small- 


1)0  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

cr  quantity  of  wood  tar  can  be  used.  If  a  mass  of  ex- 
traordinary hardness  is  desired,  the  amount  of  as- 
bestos used  can  be  decreased  and  wax  can  be  omitted 
and  about  24  parts  of  infusorial  earth  clay,  without 
any  traces  of  iron  in  it,  or  ground  slate,  can  be  used. 

IRON      PLATES— CUTTING      OUT      WITH      SUL- 
PHURIC ACID. 

To  cut  out  iron  plates  with  sulphuric  acid,  com- 
pound together  1  part  of  acid  with  6  of  water.  Then 
coat  the  iron  with  wax,  drawing  the  required  design 
in  same  and  placing  the  plate  in  this  compound  for 
several  hours,  which  will  cause  the  parts  making  the 
design  to  drop  out.  The  same  process  is  to  be  pursued 
for  etching  names,  ornaments,  letters,  etc.,  upon 
sword-blades. 

IRIDESCENT  METAL  COLORING. 

In  order  to  cause  the  colors  of  the  rainbow  to  ap- 
pear upon  gilded  articles  of  brass,  iron  and  other  met- 
als, as  well  as  any  other  clean  metal  surface,  make  a 
bath  by  boiling  for  a  half  hour  14V£  drachms  litharge 
and  3^  ounces  caustic  soda  with  1  quart  of  water. 
The  object  to  be  colored,  which  should  have  been  first 
thoroughly  pickled  and  cleaned,  is  to  be  connected 
with  the  wire  of  the  positive  pole  of  a  bettery,  while, 
as  an  anode,  a  platinum  wire  is  used.  If  this  wire  is 
plunged  in  the  bath  without  coming  in  contact  with 
the  article  the  layer  at  once  is  colored  with  a  variety 
of  colors,  which  take  their  origin  from  a  more  or  less 
thick  layer  of  the  precipitated  oxide  of  lead.  If  a 
piece  of  stout  parchment  paper  is  placed  in  a  vertical 
position  between  the  articles  to  be  colored  and  the 
platinum  wire,  colors  of  all  possible  contrasts  may  be 
obtained.  The  parchment,  however,  should  also  be 
provided  with  radical  segments,  or  numerous  holes. 

ISOLIT. 

Isolit  is  the  commercial  name  of  a  matrix  mass  for 
reproducing  coins,  medals,  etc.  It  is  composed  of 
ozokerite  in  a  pure  state  with  the  addition  of  5  per 
cent,  of  sulphur  and  7  per  cent,  of  petroleum. 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  97 

JAPAN— BLACK. 

Black  japan  is  made  from  Naples  asphaltum,  50 
pounds;  dark  gum-amime,  8  pounds,  use,  add  linseed 
oil,  12  gallons;  boil;  add  dark  gum  amber,  10  pounds, 
previously  fused  and  boiled  with  linseed  oil,  2  gal- 
lons; add  the  dryers.  Used  for  wood  or  metal. 

(2)  Black  japan  is  made:  1.  Asphaltum,  3  ounces; 
boiled  oil,  4  quarts;  burnt  amber,  8  ounces.  Mix  by 
heat,  and  when  cooling  thin  with  turpentine.  2.  Am- 
ber, 12  ounces;  asphaltum,  2  ounces;  fuse  by  heat. 
Add  boiled  oil,  %  pint;  resin,  2  ounces.  When  cooling 
add  16  ounces  oil  of  turpentine.  Both  are  used  to 
varnish  metals. 

JAPANNING— BLACK  GROUND  FOR. 

A  good  black  ground  for  japanning  is  prepared  by 
grinding  fine  ivory  black  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
alcoholic  shellac  varnish  on  a  stone  slab  with  a  rnuller 
until  perfectly  smooth  black  varndsh  is  obtained.  If 
other  colors  are  required  the  varnish  is  mixed  and 
ground  with  the  proper  quantity  of  suitable  pigments 
in  a  similar  manner.  The  following  are  good  com- 
mon black  grounds: 

(1)  Asphaltum,    1    pound;    balsam    of    copaiba,    1 
pound;  oil  of  turpentine,  q.  s.  The  asphaltum  is  melted 
over  a  fire,   and  the  balsam,  previously  heated,  is 
mixed  with  it.     The  mixture  is  then  removed  from 
the  fire  and  mixed  with  turpentine. 

(2)  Moisten  good  lampblack  with  oil  of  turpentine, 
and  grind  it  very  fine  with  a  muller  on  a  stone  plate. 
Then  add  a  sufficient  quantity  of  ordinary  copal  var- 
nish and  rub  well  together. 

(3)  Asphaltum.  3  ounces;  boiled  oil,  4  quarts;  burnt 
amber,  8  ounces;  oil  of  turpentine,  q.  s.    Melt  the  as- 
phaltum, stir  in  the  oil,  previously  heated,  then  the 
umber,  and  when  cooling  thin  down  with  the  oil  of 
turpentine. 

An  extra  black  is  prepared  from:  Amber1,  12  oz.;  as- 
phaltum, purified,  2  oz.;  boiled  oil,  y2  pint;  resin,  2  oz.; 
oil  of  turpentine,  16  oz.  Fuse  the  gum  and  resin  and 


98  MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS. 

asphaltum,  and  the  hot  oil,  stir  well  together,  and 
when  cooling  add  the  turpentine.  A  white  ground  is 
prepared  from  copal  varnish  and  zinc  white  or  starch. 
From  one  to  six  or  more  coats  of  varnish  are  applied 
to  the  work  of  japanning,  each  coat  being  hardened  in 
the  oven  before  the  next  is  put  on.  The  last  coat  in 
colored  work  is  usually  clear  varnish. 

JAPAN-BLACK  GROUNDS  FOR. 

Black  grounds  for  japans  may  be  made  by  mixing 
ivory  black  with  shellac  varnish;  or  for  coarse  work, 
lampblack  and  the  top  coating  of  common  seed  lac 
varnish.  A  common  black  japan  may  be  made  by 
painting  a  piece  of  work  with  drying  oil  (oil  mixed 
with  lead)  and  putting  the  work  into  a  stove,  not  too 
hot,  but  of  such  a  degree,  gradually  raising  the  heat 
and  keeping  it  up  for  a  long  time,  so  as  noit  to  burn 
the  oil  and  make  it  blister.  This  process  makes  very 
fair  japan  and  requires  no  polishing. 

JAPAN  GROUNDS-BLUE. 

Blue  japan  grounds  may  be  formed  of  bright  Prus- 
sian blue.  The  color  may  be  mixed  with  shellac  var- 
nish, and  brought  to  a  polishing  state  by  five  or  six 
coats  of  varnish  of  seed  lac.  The  varnish,  however, 
is  apt  to  give  a  greenish  tinge  to  the  blue,  as  the  var- 
nish has  a  yellowish  tinge,  and  blue  and  yellow  form 
a  green.  Whenever  a  light  blue  is  desired  the  purest 
varnish  must  always  be  used. 

JAPAN  GROUNDS— GREEN. 

A  good  green  japan  ground  may  be  made  by  mixing 
Prussian  blue  with  the  chromate  of  lead,  or  with  tu- 
meric,  or  orpimen  (sulphuret  of  arsenic),  or  ochre, 
only  the  two  should  be  ground  together  and  dissolved 
in  alcohol  and  applied  as  a  ground,  then  coated  with 
four  or  five  coats  of  shellac  varnish.  A  very  bright 
green  is  made  by  laying  on  a  ground  of  Dutch  metal, 
or  leaf  of  gold,  and  then  coating  it  over  with  distilled 
verdigris  dissolved  in  alcohol,  then  the  varnishes  on 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  90 

the  top.    This  4s  a  splendid  green,  brilliant  and  glow- 
ing. 

JAPANNING. 

The  process  of  japanning  upon  light  iron  work,  like 
the  frames  of  oil  and  gasoline  stoves,  is  simple,  but 
requires  an  oven  constructed  on  purpose  for  this  kind 
of  work,  where  any  amount  of  it  is  to  be  done.  Japan 
varnish  is  first  applied,  and  ithe  articles  then  placed 
in  an  oven  heated  to  a  temperature  of  from  250  to  300 
degrees.  The  articles  remain  in  the  oven  from  two  to 
four  or  more  hours,  according  to  the  color  desired, 
black  and  brown  requiring  the  longest  baking  and 
being  the  most  durable  colors.  Light  colors  require  a 
less  degree  of  heat  and  not  so  long  time,  but  are  not 
so  durable.  For  japanning,  the  ovens  are  usually 
made  of  brick  for  safety,  and  heated  by  an  iron  flue 
or  stovepipe  passing  around  the  room,  the  fire  being 
on  the  outside.  Some  place  a  heater  in  a  chamber 
below  the  drying  room,  arranged  to  let  the  hot  air 
pass  up  into  the  drying  room.  There  should  be  no 
communication  between  the  hot  air  chamber  and  the 
open  fire  that  could  possibly  admit  the  vapor  of  the 
varnish  to  the  fire.  Steam  at  high  pressure  may  be 
used  for  heating  the  oven  when  convenient,  and  is 
safer  than  a  stove. 

(2)  Japanning  is  the  art  of  covering  bodies  by 
grounds  of  opaque  colors  in  varnish,  which  may  be 
afterwards  decorated  by  printing  or  gilding,  or  left 
in  a  plain  state.  It  is  also  to  be  looked  upon  in  an- 
other sense,  as  that  of  ornamenting  coaches,  snuff- 
boxes, screens,  etc.  All  surfaces  to  be  japanned  must 
be  perfectly  clean.  - 

JAPANNING  OLD  TEA-TRAYS. 

First  clean  them  thoroughly  with  soap  and  water  and 
a  little  rotten  stone;  then  dry  them  by  wiping  and  ex- 
posure to  the  fire.  Now,  get  some  good  copal  varnish, 
mix  with  it  some  bronze  powder,  and  apply  with  a 
brush  to  the  denuded  parts,  after  which  set  the  tea- 


100  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

tray  in  an  oven  at  a  heat  of  212  or  300  degrees,  until 
the  varnish  is  dry.  Two  coats  will  make  it  equal  to 
new. 

JAPAN-ORANGE-COLORED. 

Orange-colored  japan  grounds  may  be  made  of  yel- 
low mixed  with  vermilion  or  carmine,  just  as  a  bright 
or  rather  inferior  color  is  wanted.  The  yellow  should 
always  be  in  quantity  to  make  a  good  full  color,  and 
the  red  added  in  proportion  to  the  depth  of  the  shade. 
If  there  is  not  a  good,  full  body  of  yellow,  the  color 
will  look  watery,  or  bare,  as  it  is  technically  termed. 

JAPAN— PAINTED. 

To  paint  japan  work,  the  colors  to  be  painted  are 
tempered,  generally,  in  oil.  which  should  have  at 
least  one-fourth  of  its  weight  of  gum  sandarach,  or 
mastic,  dissolved  in  it,  and  it  should  be  well  diluted 
with  turpentine,  that  the  colors  may  be  laid  on  thin 
and  evenly.  In  some  instances  it  does  well  to  put  on 
water  colors  or  grounds  of  gold,  which  a  skillful  hand 
can  do  and  manage  so  as  to  make  the  work  appear 
as  if  it  was  embossed.  These  water  colors  are  best 
prepared  by  means  of  isinglass  size,  mixed  with 
honey,  or  sugar  candy.  These  colors,  when  laid  on, 
must  receive  a  number  of  upper  coats  of  varnish. 

JAPAN-PURPLE. 

Purple  japan  grounds  are  made  by  a  mixture  of 
lake  and  Prussian  blue  or  carmine,  or  for  an  inferior 
color,  vermilion.  When  the  ground  is  laid  on  and 
perfectly  dried,  a  fine  coat  of  pure  boiled  oil  is  then 
laid  on  and  perfectly  dried,  but  it  is  a  good  method  to 
have  a  japan  not  liable  to  crack.  But  a  better  plan 
is  to  use  this  oil  in  the  varnish  given,  the  first  coat, 
after  the  ground  is  laid  on,  and  which  should  contain 
considerable  pure  turpentine.  In  every  case  where 
oil  is  us«d  for  any  purpose  for  varnish,  it  is  all  the 
better  if  turpentine  is  mixed  with  it.  Turpentine  en- 
ables oil  to  mix  with  either  alcohol  or  water.  Alkalies 
have  this  property  also. 


MANUAL  OF   RECEIPTS.  101 

JAPAN— SCARLET. 

Ground  vermilion  may  be  used  for  this,  but  being 
so  glaring  it  is  not  beautiful  unless  covered  over  with 
rose-pink  or  lake,  which  have  a  good  effect  when 
thus  used.  For  a  very  bright  crimson  ground,  saf- 
flower  or  Indian  lake  should  be  used,  always  dissolv- 
ing dn  the  alcohol  of  which  the  varnish  is  made.  In 
place  of  this  lake,  carmine  may  be  used,  as  it  is  more 
common.  The  top  coat  of  varnish  must  always  be  of 
the  white  seed-lac,  and  as  many  coats  given  as  will 
be  thought  proper;  it  is  easy  to  judge  of  this. 

JAPAN— SHEET  IRON. 

The  varnish  for  black  japan  consists  of  pure  nat- 
ural asphaltum  with  a  proportion  of  gum  anime  dis- 
solved in  linseed  oil  and  thinned  with  turpentine.  In 
this  layers  this  japan  has  a  rich  dark-brown  color 
and  only  shows  a  brilliant  black  in  thicker  coatings. 
For  fine  work,  which  has  to  be  smoothed  and  pol- 
ished, several  coats  of  black  are  applied  in  succession, 
each  being  separately  dried  in  'the  stove  at  a  heat 
which  may  rise  to  near  300  degrees  Fahr.  Body  colors 
consist  of  a  basis  of  transparent  varnish  mixed  with 
special  mineral  paints  of  the  desired  color,  or  with 
bronze  powders.  The  transparent  varnish  used  by 
japanners  is  a  copal  varnish  which  contains  less  dry- 
ing oil  and  more  turpentine  than  is  contained  in  the 
ordinary  painters'  oil  varnish. 

JAPAN— TORTOISE  SHELL. 

This  varnish  is  prepared  by  taking  of  good  linseed 
oil  1  gallon,  and  of  umber  half  a  pound,  and  boiling 
them  together  until  the  oil  becomes  very  brown  and 
thick,  when  they  are  strained  through  a  cloth  and 
boiled  again  until  the  composition  is  about  the  con- 
sistency of  pitch,  when  it  is  fit  for  use.  Having  pre- 
pared this  varnish,  clean  well  the  copper  or  iron 
plate  or  vessel  that  ds  to  be  varnished  (japanned), 
and  then  lay  vermilion,  mixed  with  shellac  varnish,  or 
with  drying  oil,  diluted  with  turpentine,  very  thinly 
on  the  places  intended  to  imitate  the  clean  parts  of 


102  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

the  tortoise  shell.  When  the  vermilion  is  dry  brush 
over  the  whole  with  the  above  umber  varnish  diluted 
to  a  due  consistency  with  turpentine,  and  when  it  is 
set  and  firm,  it  must  be  put  into  a  stove  and  undergo 
a  strong  heat  for  a  long  time,  even  two  weeks  will 
not  hurt  it.  This  is  the  ground  for  these  beautiful 
snuff  boxes  and  tea  boards  which  are  so  much  ad- 
mired, and  these  grounds  can  be  decorated  with  all 
kinds  of  paintings  that  fancy  may  suggest,  and  the 
work  is  all  the  better  to  be  finished  in  an  annealing 
oven. 

JAPAN— TR  ANSPARENT. 

Transparent  japan  may  be  made  of  oil  of  turpen- 
tine, 4  ounces;  oil  of  lavender,  3  ounces;  camphor,  % 
drachm;  copal,  1  ounce;  dissolve.  Used  to  japan  tin. 
but  quick  copal  varnish  is  mostly  used  instead. 

JAPAN— YELLOW. 

To  make  yellow  japan  grounds,  dissolve  tumeric  in 
spirits  of  wine,  and  strain  through  a  cloth,  and 
then  mix  with  pure  seed-lac  varnish.  Saffron  will  an- 
swer for  the  same  purpose  in  the  same  way,  but  the 
brightest  yellow  ground  is  made  by  a  primary  coat 
of  pure  chrome  yellow,  and  coated  successively  with 
the  varnish.  Dutch  pink  is  used  for  a  kind  of  cheap 
yellow  japan  ground.  If  a  little  dragon's  blood  be 
added  to  the  varnish  for  yellow  japan,  a  most  beau- 
tiful and  rich  salmon-colored  varnish  is  the  result, 
aud  by  these  two  mixtures  all  the  shades  of  flesh-col- 
ored japans  are  produced. 

KARAKANE. 

Karakane,  also  called  Japanese  Bell  Metal,  is  cast 
in  various  Qualities,  among  them  being  the  following: 
1.  Copper  (10  parts),  tin  (2  parts),  lead  (2  parts).  2. 
Copper  (10  parts),  tin  (3  parts),  lead  (2  parts),  iron  (Y2 
part),  zinc  (1  part).  3.  Copper  (10  parts),  tan  (4  parts), 
iron  (%  part),  zinc  (1^  parts).  4.  Copper  (10  parts), 
tin  (2%  parts),  lead  (1  1-3  parts),  zinc  <%  part). 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  103 


KARMASCH'S  BRITANNIA  METAL. 

Karmarsch's  Britannia  Metal  is  composed  of 
1  6-10  parts  Bismuth, 
1  4-10  parts  Zinc, 
3  6-10  parts  Copper, 
5  parts  Antimony, 

85  parts  Tin. 

KEEPING   MACHINES   FROM   RUSTING. 

To  keep  machines  from  rusting:  After  cleaning  well, 
grease  with  melted  fat  in  which  some  camphor  has 
been  dissolved,  and  add  'to  it  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
graphite.  After  four  hours  rub  with  a  fine  rag. 

KEEPING  METALS  FROM  RUSTING. 

To  keep  metals  from  rusting  rub  them  off  perfectly 
clean  and  paint  them  over  with  the  following  mix- 
ture: Dissolve  half  an  ounce  of  camphor  in  a  pound 
of  lard,  or  in  that  proportion,  according  to  the  quan- 
tity used,  and  before  it  cools  enough  to  be  hard,  mix 
in  enough  black  le%d  to  give  the  whole  the  color  of 
iron.  This  should  be  well  and  thoroughly  applied  all 
over  the  metal,  being  careful  not  to  omit  any  spots, 
and  let  it  remain  over  night.  The  next  day  rub  off 
clean  with  rags.  If  kept  dry  by  the  weather,  metal 
treated  in  this  way  will  keep  perfectly  free  from  rust 
all  winter.  Olmstead's  varnish  is  made  by  melting 
2  ounces  of  resin  in  1  pound  of  fresh,  sweet  lard, 
melting  the  resin  first  and  then  adding  the  lard,  and 
then  mixing  thoroughly.  This  is  applied  to  the  metal, 
which  should  be  warm,  if  possible,  and  perfectly 
cleaned,  and  afterward  rubbed  off.  This  has  been 
well  proved  and  tested  for  many  years,  and  it  is  all 
that  it  has  been  recommended  to  be.  It  is  particularly 
well  suited  for  planishes  and  Russia  iron  surfaces 
which  a  slight  rust  is  apt  to  injure  very  seriously. 

KEEPING  POLISHED  EDGES  FROM  RUSTING. 

To  keep  polished  edges  from  rusting,  and  still  not 
detract  from  the  appearance  of  the  polished  edge,  put 
on  a  thin  film  of  paraffine. 


104  MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS. 

KEEPING  TINWARE  BRIGHT. 

To  keep  tinware  nice  and  bright  scour  it  every  two 
or  three  weeks  with  finely  sifted  coal  ashes. 

KELLER'S  BRITANNIA  METAL. 

Keller's  Britannia  Metal  is  composed  of 

1  8-10  parts  Bismuth, 

1  part    Copper, 

10  4-10  parts  Antimony, 
85  7-10  parts  Tin. 

KINDLER— FIRE. 

To  make  a  simple  and  good  fire  kindler,  that  will 
start  a  coal  or  wood  fire  without  much  trouble:  Take 
2  quarts  of  tar  and  6  pounds  of  common  resin;  melt 
them;  let  the  mass  cool  somewhat;  then  mix  it  with 
as  much  pine  sawdust,  containing  a  small  portion  of 
charcoal  bruised  tolerably  fine,  as  can  be  worked  into 
it.  Spread  the  mixture  out  upon  a  board  while  hot. 
to  the  thickness  of  about  an  inch,  and  with  an  old 
knife  proceed  to  score  it  into  squares  an  inch  and  a 
half  each  way,  and  when  cold  break  up  into  conve- 
nient cakes. 

LACQUER— BRASS. 

A  good  lacquer  for  brass:  Tumeric,  1  ounce;  saffron, 
14  ounce;  annatto,  the  same  quantity;  rectified  spirits. 
1  pint.  Digest  at  gentle  heat  for  several  days.  Strain 
the  mixture  through  coarse  linen,  then  put  the  mix- 
ture into  a  bottle  and  add  3  ounces  of  coarsely  pul- 
verized seed-lac.  Place  in  a  moderate  heat  and  shake 
occasionally  until  dissolved. 

LACQUER— COFFEE-COLORED. 

Lacquer  of  various  tints  can  be  made  by  putting  4 
ounces  best  gum  gamboge  into  32  ounces  spirits  of 
turpentine,  4  ounces  dragon's  blood  into  the  same 
quantity  of  spirits  of  turpentine  as  the  gamboge,  and 
1  ounce  annatto  into  8  ounces  of  the  same  spirits. 
The  three  mixtures  should  be  made  in  different  ves- 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  105 

sels.  They  should  then  be  kept  for  about  two  weeks 
in  a  warm  place,  and  as  much  exposed  to  the  sun  as 
possible.  At  the  end  of  that  time  they  will  be  fit  for 
use,  and  any  desired  tints  may  be  obtained  by  making 
a  mixture  from  them,  with  such  proportions  of  each 
liquor  as  the  nature  of  the  color  desired  will  point  out. 

LACQUER— COLORLESS. 

To  make  a  good  colorless  lacquer,  dissolve  bleached 
shellac  in  pure  alcohol,  settle  and  decant.  Make  the 
lacquer  very  thin.  The  usual  lacquer  for  brass  is 
made  of  ordinary  shellac  and  alcohol,  made  very  thin, 
settled  and  decanted. 

LACQUER-ELASTIC. 

A  very  elastic  lacquer,  perfectly  supple,  and  not 
liable  to  peel  off,  may  be  made  thus:  About  120  Ibs. 
of  oil  varnish  are  heated  in  one  vessel,  and  33  Ibs.  of 
quicklime  are  put  into  22  Ibs.  of  water  in  another. 
As  .soon  as  the  lime  causes  an  effervescence,  55  Ibs. 
of  india-rubber  are  added.  This  mixture  is  stirred 
and  then  poured  into  the  vessel  of  hot  varnish.  The 
whole  is  instantly  stirred  so  that  the  ingredients  may 
become  completely  incorporated.  Straining  and  cool- 
ing through  the  process.  When  required  for  use  it  is 
thinned  with  the  necessary  quantity  of  varnish,  and 
applied  hot  or  cold  to  wood,  iron,  walls,  waterproof 
cloth,  paper,  or  other  material. 

LACQUER  FOR  DIPPED  BRASS. 

A  lacquer  for  dipped  brass  is  composed  of  the  fol- 
lowing: Alcohol,  proof  specific  gravity  of  not  less 
than  95-100ths,  2  gallons;  seed-lac,  1  lb.;  gum  copal, 
1  ounce;  English  saffron,  1  ounce;  annatto,  1  ounce. 

LACQUER  FOR  POLISHED  BRASS. 

The  first  requisite  is  to  see  that  the  article  of  pol- 
ished brass  to  be  lacquered  is  sufficiently  heated  to 
retain  the  lacquer.  This  may  be  done  by  keeping  the 
surface  at  a  heat  above  212  degrees.  The  lacquer 
should  not  be  too  thick,  and  may  be  thinned  down 


106  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

with  95  per  cent,  alcohol,  until  it  appears  through  the 
bottle,  as  a  semi-transparent  or  ainber  liquid.  A  few 
trials  with  this  lacquer  and  heat  applications  after 
lacquering  will  give  success. 

LACQUER  FOR  STEEL. 

A  lacquer  for  steel  may  be  made  of  10  parts  of 
clear  mastic,  5  of  camphor,  15  of  sandarac,  and  5  of 
elemi  gums  dissolved  in  pure  alcohol,  filtered,  and  ap- 
plied cold.  This  varnish  is  transparent. 

LACQUER  FOR  TIN. 

For  a  good  and  cheap  lacquer  for  tinplate:  Color  lac- 
varnish  with  tumeric  to  impart  the  color  of  brass  to 
it,  and  with  annatto  to  give  it  the  color  of  copper. 
Tinplate  dipped  into  molten  brass  will  be  coated  with 
it.  A  deep  gold-colored  lacquer  is  made  by  mixing 
seed-lac,  3  oz.;  tumeric,  1  oz.;  dragon's  blood,  }4  oz.; 
alcohol,  1  pint.  Digest  for  a  week,  frequently  shak- 
ing, decant  and  filter. 

LACQUER— GOLD. 

To  a  pint  of  strong  alcohol,  add  as  much  gamboge 
as  will  give  it  a  bright  yellow  color,  then  add  2  ounces 
seed-lac  in  fine  powder,  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place 
until  dissolved. 

LACQUER— GOLD— FOR  METAL  GOODS. 

A  gold  lacquer,  remarkable  both  for  hardness  and 
for  brilliancy  of  color,  is  made  as  follows:  A  clear 
solution  of  shellac  is  prepared  with  picric  and  half 
per  cent,  of  crystallized  boric  acid,  each  separately 
dissolved  in  alcohol. 

LACQUER-IMITATION  JAPANESE. 

To  make  a  good  imitation  of  Japanese  lacquer,  take 
oil  of  turpentine,  90  parts,  and  oil  of  lavender,  120 
parts,  and  after  freeing  it  from  water  which  may  be 
present  by  adding  a  small  quantity  of  calcined  cal- 
cium chloride,  and  then  carefully  pouring  off  the  oil, 
combine  it  in  a  bottle  with  2  parts  of  camphor  and 


MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS.  107 

30  parts  of  copal.  Place  the  bottle  for  twenty-four 
hours  in  hot  ashes,  shaking  it  occasionally,  and  finally 
filter  the  contents  through  a  cloth.  The  filtrate  is 
again  allowed  to  stand  for  twenty-four  hours,  when 
the  clear,  supernatant  fluid  is  poured  off  from  the 
sediment. 

LEAD  CHLORIDE. 

Lead  chloride  is  obtained  in  adding  a  soluble  chlo- 
ride to  a  solution  of  lead  salt. 

LEAD  SULPHATE. 

Lead  sulphate  is  a  precipitation  made  by  mixing  a 
solution  of  a  lead  salt  and  sulphuric  acid. 

LECHESNE. 

Lechesne  is  the  name  of  an  alloy  consisting  of 
900     parts-  Copper, 
100      parts  Nickel, 

1%  parts  Aluminum. 
It  is  also  made  of 

600     parts  Copper, 
400     parts  Nickel, 
y<t  part     Aluminum. 

LETTERING  UPON  STEEL. 

Steel  can  be  written  upon  or  engraved  by  first 
cleaning  it  with  oil,  and  then  spreading  a  coating  of 
melted  beeswax  upon  it.  The  writing  can  be  done 
on  the  beeswax  with  any  sharp  instrument,  and  the 
lines  and  marks  thus  made  should  be  painted  with  a 
fine  brush  dipped  in  a  liquid  made  of  one  ounce  of 
nitric  acid  and  one-sixth  of  an  ounce  of  muriatic  acid. 
When  the  written  lines  are  filled  with  this  liquid,  it 
should  be  allowed  to  remain  five  minutes,  and  then 
the  article  should  be  dipped  in  water  and  afterwards 
cleaned. 

LINING  IRON  WITH  PORCELAIN. 

The  white  enamel  for  hollow  ware  is  made  of  pow- 
dered flints,  ground  with  calcined  borax,  fine  clay  and 


108  MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS. 

a  little  feldspar.  This  mixture  is  made  into  a  paste 
with  water,  and  brushed  over  the  pots,  after  they 
have  been  thoroughly  scoured  with  dilute  sulphuric 
acid  and  rinsed  clean  with  water.  While  still  moist, 
they  are  dusted  over  with  a  glaze  composed  of  pul- 
verized feldspar,  carbonate  of  sodium  (dry),  calcined 
borax  and  a  little  oxide  of  tin.  Thus  prepared,  the 
pots  are  gradually  dried,  and  then  the  glaze  is  fired 
or  fused  under  a  muffle  at  a  bright  red  heat. 

Some  oxide  of  lead  is  occasionally  added  to  the 
above  mixture,  but  though  it  increases  the  fusibility 
of  the  glaze,  it  impairs  its  value,  since  it  will  not  re- 
sist the  action  of  acids  in  cooking. 

LUSTRE— DEAD  ON  GOLD  AND  SILVER. 

To  give  a  dead  lustre  to  articles  of  gold  and  silvei- 
use  a  scratch-brush  made  of  finely-spun  glass  threads. 

LUSTRE  FOR  TIN. 

If  any  article  of  tin  be  subjected  to  rapid  scouring 
with  the  use  of  potash  lye  and  some  hard  substance, 
a  very  satisfactory  lustre  can  be  obtained. 

LUSTRELESS  SURFACES  ON  STEEL. 

To  give  a  finely  polished  lustreless  surface  on  tem- 
pered steel,  rub  the  article  along  a  smooth  iron  sur- 
face with  pulverized  oil  stone  until  it  is  perfectly  even 
and  smooth.  Next  lay  it  on  a  sheet  of  white  paper 
and  rub  forward  and  backward  until  a  fine  dead  pol- 
ish is  acquired.  Depressions  or  screw-holes  in  the 
steel  are  to  be  first  polished  and  cleaned  with  a  piece 
of  wood  and  oil  stone.  The  lustreless  surface  ob- 
tained by  this  method  is  very  sensitive  and  is  to  be 
rinsed  with  pure  soft  water  only.  If  a  more  lasting 
polish  is  desired,  the  steel  surface  should  first  be 
smoothed  with  an  iron  polisher  and  some  powdered 
oil  stone  should  be  carefully  washed  and  rinsed. 
Then  some  fresh  oil  and  powdered  oil  stone  should  be 
stirred  together  in  a  small  vessel,  into  which  should 
be  dipped  the  end  of  a  piece  of  elder  pith,  and  the 
steel  surface  polished  with  a  mild  pressure.  The  end 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  109 

of  the  pith  being  cut  off  as  soon  as  it  becomes  soiled. 
As  a  final  step,  the  article  should  be  thoroughly 
cleaned  with  soft  water,  which  will  give  it  a  fine, 
white,  lustreless  polish. 

LUSTROUS  BLACK  FOR  BRASS. 

A  lustrous  black  on  brass  is  secured  by  the  dissolu- 
tion of  carbonate  of  copper,  which  has  been  freshly 
precipitated  while  yet  moist  in  strong  liquid  ammonia, 
enough  of  copper  salt  being  used  so  that  there  will 
be  a  small  undissolved  residue.  This  carbonate  of 
copper  is  made  by  mixing  when  hot  a  solution  of 
equal  portions  of  soda  and  cupric  .sulphate,  then  fil- 
tering same  and  washing  off  the  precipitation.  This 
solution  of  copper  salt  in  ammonia  is  to  be  diluted 
with  }4  its  volume  of  water,  to  which  the  addition  is 
made  of  31  to  46  grains  of  graphite  and  the  mass 
heated  to  95  degrees  or  104  degrees  Fahrenheit.  Clean 
the  brass  and  put  it  in  this  pickle  for  a  brief  time  (a 
minute  or  so)  until  it  shows  a  full  black  shade,  then 
rinse  same  in  water,  followed  by  an  immersion  in  hot 
water,  and  dry  it  in  sawdust.  As  the  solution  does 
iiot  keep,  no  more  should  be  made  at  a  time  than  is 
necessary  for  immediate  use. 

MAKING  HOLES  IN  HARD  STEEL. 

To  make  a  hole  in  hard  steel  use  a  compound  con- 
sisting of  1/2  teaspoonful  powdered  salt,  1  gill  vinegar, 
20  drops  nitric  acid,  1  ounce  sulphate  of  copper  and 
*4  ounce  alum. 

MAKING  JOINTS  SOUND. 

For  making  metallic  joints  sound,  use  a  putty  made 
of  boiled  linseed  oil  and  red  lead.  Or,  use  a  putty  of 
equal  parts  of  white  and  red  lead. 

MAKING  PLATINUM  ADHERE  TO  GOLD. 

If  you  desire  to  make  platinum  adhere  to  gold,  a 
small  quantity  of  18-karat  gold  should  be  sweated 
into  the  surface  of  the  platinum  at  almost  a  white 


110  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  . 

heat  in  order  that  the  gold  may  soak  into  the  face  of 
the  platinum.  The  face  thus  secured  is  one  to  which 
ordinary  solder  will  firmly  adhere. 

MALLEABLE  BRASS. 

Thirty-three  parts  of  copper  and  25  of  zinc  are  al- 
loyed, the  copper  being  first  put  into  the  crucible, 
which  is  loosely  covered.  As  soon  as  the  copper  is 
melted,  zinc,  purified  by  sulphur,  is  added.  The  alloy 
is  then  cast  into  molding  sand  in  the  shape  of  bars. 

MALLEABLE   BRITANNIA   METAL. 
Malleable  Britannia  Metal  is  composed  of 

1  part    Bismuth, 
48  parts  Zinc, 
3  parts  Copper, 
48  parts  Tin. 

MANUFACTURE  OF  KNIVES  FROM  OLD  FILES. 

To  make  knives  from  old  files,  first  draw  the  temper 
from  the  file  by  heating  it  to  a  cherry  red.  Then  put  in 
ashes  of  about  5  inches  on  the  forge,  leaving  it  there 
until  it  becomes  cool.  Next  grind  out  the  file-marks 
and  then  draw  with  a  heat  no  higher  than  a  bright 
cherry  red  and  a  smooth-faced  hammer.  Next  draw 
the  file  slightly  thicker  than  you  desire  the  back  of 
the  blade  to  be,  and  bend  the  blade  with  the  edge  on 
the  inside,  then  draw  the  blade  to  an  edge.  The 
drawing  of  the  blade  on  the  inner  curve  will  straight- 
en it.  After  it  has  been  drawn  to  an  even  color  and 
straightened,  drill  three  holes  for  fastening  on  the 
handle  and  shape  with  the  file.  Do  not  make  the  edge 
too  thin,  or  you  will  find  tempering  diflBeult.  Use 
soft,  warmish  water  for  tempering.  Take  out  the 
handle  ends  with  tongs  or  tweezers,  hold  the  blade 
with  the  back  down  over  a  clear-well-charred  fire,  and 
heat  evenly  to  the  first  hole  until  the  blade  becomes 
red,  then  immerse  same  endwise  in  water.  After 
this  is  done  the  blade  should  be  in  such  condition 
that  when  tried  with  a  file  the  latter  will  take  hold 
just  a  little.  If  this  test  shows  the  blade  .to  be  too 


MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS.  Ill 

hard,  dip  same  in  linseed  oil  and  hold  over  a  clear, 
slow  fire  until  the  'gnition  of  the  oil,  when  it  is  to  be 
dipped  into  water  again.  This  will  bring  about 
toughening  and  cause  it  to  hold  its  edge  better. 

MANUFACTURE  OF  METAL  PIPES. 

To  make  metal  pipes,  bend  a  piece  of  soft  steel  to  a 
pipe  so  that  both  edges  lie  close  together,  then  polish 
same  and  coat  with  copper  in  a  suitable  cyanide  solu- 
tion. If  a  layer  of  copper  of  special  thickness  is  de- 
sired it  should  be  treated  in  a  solution  of  cupric  sul- 
phate. Then  coat  the  pipe  with  brass  in  a  cyanide 
solution  and  then  polish.  This  system  will  give  a 
metallic-coated  pipe,  without  any  soldering  or  weld- 
ing. 

MARBLING  ZINC. 

To  secure  the  effect  of  marble  on  zinc,  moisten  the 
gray  zinc  and  apply  hydro-chloric  acid  in  spots  with 
a  sponge,  then  rinse  off,  and  while  still  wet  pour  over 
it  an  acidified  solution  of  sulphate  of  copper,  which 
will  produce  the  appearance  of  black  marble.  This 
having  a  dull  surface  should  undergo  a  coat  of  var- 
nish. 

MATCHES-FRICTION. 

To  make  matches,  take  8  parts  (by  weight)  gum  ara- 
bic,  5  parts  phosphorus,  7  parts  nitre,  8  parts  pow- 
dered peroxide  of  manganese.  Make  a  mucilage  of 
the  gum  and  water,  then  add  the  manganese,  then 
the  phosphorus,  and  heat  them  to  about  130  degrees 
Fahrenheit.  When  the  phosphorus  is  melted  add  the 
nitre,  and  stir  the  whole  thoroughly  until  the  mass 
becomes  a  uniform  paste.  The  matches,  the  ends  of 
which  have  been  previously  dipped  in  sulphur,  are 
then  dipped  in  the  composition  and  dried  in  the  air. 
Friction  papers  for  the  pocket  or  matches  for  parlor 
and  bedroom  use  may  be  made  by  adding  some  gum 
benzoin  to  the  mucilage,  which  will  give  an  agreeable 
odor  when  the  matches  are  ignited. 


112  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

MELTING   GUTTA   PERCHA. 

Gutta  percha  is  readily  dissolved  in  boiling  spirits 
of  turpentine,  or  in  coal  tar  or  naphtha.  Practically, 
it  cannot  be  melted.  For  all  mechanical  purposes  it 
is  shaved  to  a  thin  consistency,  then  thrown  into  a 
steam-heated  tank  or  vessel,  where  it  is  rendered  soft. 
The  mass  is  then  transferred  into  a  sort  of  mangling 
machine,  which  tears  it  into  shreds,  then  it  is  soft- 
ened to  a  dough-like  consistency  by  being  immersed 
in  hot  water,  after  which  it  is  kneaded  in  heated  hol- 
low cylinders  which  revolve  and  mix  the  plastic  mass 
and  give  to  it  a  uniform  pasty  consistency.  It  is  then 
passed  through  heated  rollers,  coming  out  much  like 
rolled  pie-crust,  when  it  can  be  worked  into  any  de- 
sired form,  and  is  afterwards  hardened  by  being 
slowly  dried  before  a  proper  heat. 

MENDING  FILES. 

To  mend  a  file  have  a  little  bottle  of  muriate  of  zinc 
and  wet  the  break  with  it  immediately;  then  heat  a 
soldering  iron  and  tin  the  ends  of  the  file.  Heat  the 
file  pretty  warm— not  enough  to  start  the  temper,  but 
rather  too  hot  to  hold  in  the  hand.  When  well  tinned 
and  hot.  press  the  two  pieces  firmly  together,  squeeze 
out  nearly  all  the  solder,  and  let  the  file  cool.  Trim 
off  the  joint.  Let  it.  lay  a  day  or  two.  or.  in  damp 
weather,  even  an  hour  or  two.  and  you  can  never 
mend  it  so  it  will  stay.  Take  it  the  minute  it  snaps 
and  you  can  mend  it. 

MENDING  GRANITE  WARE. 

To  mend  granite  ironware,  place  the  article  to  be 
mended  upon  a  piece  of  iron,  so  that  it  will  be  per- 
fectly solid,  and  pound  the  rivet  down  flat,  being 
careful  to  strike  only  the  rivet,  as  a  blow  on  the 
granite  ware  would  cause  the  enamel  to  cleave  off. 

(2)  Place  the  article  to  be  repaired  on  something 
firm  and  with  a  chisel  or  other  tool  peck  off  about 
one-quarter  of  an  inch  around  the  hole.  Scrape  with 
a  knife  or  scraper  until  bright.  Flux  with  moder- 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  113 

ately  strong  acid  and  solder  all  the  bright  space  the 
granite  has  been  broken  from. 

MENDING  IRON  POTS  AND  PANS. 

To  mend  iron  pots  and  pans,  partially  melt  two 
parts  of  sulphur  and  add  one  part  of  fine  black  lead. 
Mix  well,  pour  on  stone,  coo}  and  break  in  pieces. 
Use  like  solder  with  an  iron. 

(2)  Mix  finest  sifted  linie  with  some  white  of  an 
egg  till  a  thin  kind  of  paste  is  formed;  then  add  some 
iron  filings.  Apply  this  to  the  fracture  and  the  vessel 
will  be  found  nearly  as  sound  as  ever. 

MENDING  STOVE  LINING. 

A  good  method  for  mending  stove  lining  is  the  fol- 
lowing: Take  powdered  soapstone  and  salt  in  equal 
parts,  wet  with  water,  which  will  make  an  everlast- 
ing and  fireproof  mending  for  the  lining  of  stoves.  It 
is  very  much  less  expensive  and  troublesome  to  pro- 
cure and  put  in  place  than  new  firebricks.  Don't  let 
fire  spoil  the  stove  because  the  brick  needs  mending. 

MERCURIC    NITRATE. 

Mercuric  nitrate  is  made  by  the  dissolution,  at  a 
gentle  heat,  of  mercury  and  nitric  acid. 

MERCURY— TEST   FOR. 

To  test  mercury,  put  a  drop  in  a  dish  and  pour  ni- 
tric acid  over  the  same.  If  the  mercury  be  pure  it 
will  give  a  slight  movement  for  a  minute,  and  there- 
after remain  quiet  and  without  motion.  If  it  con- 
tains foreign  metals  a  vigorous  circular  motion  will 
be  at  once  commenced  and  kept  up  until  the  dissolu- 
tion of  the  mercury  is  completed. 

METAL    FLUID    FOR    PLASTER    PARIS    MOLD 
IMPRESSIONS. 

The  following  is  a  metal  that  becomes  a  fluid  read- 
ily and  is  suitable  for  making  impressions  of  plaster 
of  Paris  molds,  wood  engravings,  etc.:  Tin  (3  parts), 
lead  (13  parts),  bismuth  (6  parts).  Tin  (2  parts),  lead 


114  MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS. 

(3  parts),  bismuth  (5  parts).  Tin  (1  part),  lead  (1  part), 
bismuth  (2  parts).  Tin  (3  parts),  lead  (5  parts),  bis- 
muth (8  parts). 

METALLINE. 

Metalline  is  an  alloy  composed  of  35  parts  cobalt, 
25  parts  aluminum,  10  parts  iron  and  30  parts  copper. 

METALS-FUSIBLE. 

(1)  Take  bismuth,  8  Ibs.;  lead,  5  Ibs.;  tin,  3  Ibs. 
Melt  together.    This  alloy  fuses  below  212'degrees. 

(2)  Take  bismuth,  2  Ibs.;  lead,  5  Ibs.;  tin,  3  Ibs. 
Melt.    This  alloy  fuses  in  boiling  water. 

(3)  Take  lead,  3  Ibs.;  tin,  2  Ibs.;  bismuth,  5  Ibs. 
Fusible  at  197  degrees. 

In  each  of  the  three  foregoing  receipts  melt  the  tin 
and  lead  first,  then  remove  from  the  fire  and  add  the 
bismuth. 

METHOD  OF  COPPERING  TIN. 

The  ingredients  given  below  are  those  required  to 
make  one  gallon  of  the  solution: 

Take  first  1  gallon  of  clean  water,  which  bring  to 
the  boiling  point,  then  dissolve  in  it  8  ounces  of  sul- 
phate of  copper  crystals;  after  this  is  thoroughly  dis- 
solved, add  2  fluid  ounces  of  aqua  ammonia;  to  this 
add  8  ounces  of  cyanide  of  potassium.  This  solution 
should  be  allowed  to  stand  over  night.  Rolled  sheet 
copper  should  be  hung  in  the  solution,  and  the  metal 
to  be  plated  should  hang  in  the  middle  of  the  vat, 
near  the  rolled  sheet  copper.  This  solution  can  be 
used  either  with  electric  batteries  or  electric  dyna- 
mos. Before  the  metal  is  hung  in  the  vat  it  should 
be  cleaned  off  thoroughly  in  a  potash  solution.  This 
solution  is  made  by  mixing  2  1-pound  cans  of  lye  in 
20  gallons  of  clean,  warm  water.  When  the  metal  is 
thoroughly  cleaned  in  this  warm  potash  it  should 
then  be  rinsed  in  clean  water;  then  it  is  to  be  hung  in 
the  vat,  the  current  turned  on  and  plated.  If  hung 
too  long  in  the  vat  the  copper  will  blister  and  peel  off. 
When  the  article  plated  is  removed  from  the  vat  it 


MANUAL  OP  RECEIPTS.  113 

should  be  immersed  in  boiling  hot  water,  then  dried 
and  afterwards  buffed,  if  a  polish  is  wanted. 

MINARGBNT. 

Minargent  is  an  alloy  consisting  of 
5  parts  Antimony, 
2  parts  Aluminum, 
70  parts  Nickel, 
100  parts  Copper. 

MINERAL  GREEN. 

A  mineral  green  is  made  by  the  addition  of  a  solu- 
tion of  soda  to  one  of  cupric  'Sulphate.  It  is  poisonous. 

MINOFOR   METAL. 
Minofor  metal  is  an  alloy  consisting  of 
66  parts  Tin, 
20  parts  Antimony, 
9  parts  Zinc, 
4  parts  Copper, 
1  part    Iron. 

or 

67  53-100  parts  Tin, 
17  parts  Antimony, 

8  94-100  parts  Zinc, 
3  26-100  parts  Copper. 

MOIRE  METALLIQUE. 

In  order  to  give  tinplate  a  crystalline  surface,  pol- 
ishing it  by  hammering  and  then  heat  over  a  coal  fire, 
so  that  the  tin  will  melt  without  oxidation,  then  re- 
move same,  and  water  is  poured  over  the  side  which 
has  been  exposed  to  the  fire,  from  a  vessel  so  ar- 
ranged that  a  broad  stream  can  be  focused  on  the 
surface.  As  it  cools  the  tin  crystallizes,  but  a  poor 
appearance  is  presented  by  the  surface  and  it  is  nec- 
essary, therefore,  to  give  it  further  treatment  with 
acid.  Place  the  sheet  in  a  compound  of  2  parts  hydro- 
chloric acid,  1  part  nitric  acid,  and  3  parts  water. 
This  will  cause  the  dissolution  of  the  tin  upon  the 


110  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

surface  in  a  little  while,  then  take  the  sheet  out. 
wash  it  in  caustic  potash  lye  in  order  to  enhance  the 
metallic  lustre,  and  rinse  in  water,  dry  at  a  moderate 
heat  and  then  coat  with  transparent  copal  lacquer. 
If  it  is  desired,  the  direction  of  crystallization  may 
be  determined  by  the  surface  manipulations;  for  in- 
stance, draw  designs  on  the  back  of  the  heated  and 
cooled  plate,  with  a  hot  soldering  iron  and  the  tin 
Avill  melt  through  the  plate  and  the  reaction  of  the 
design  on  the  side  can  be  made,  owing  to  the  action  of 
the  acid  changing  the  direction  of  the  crystallization. 
If  tinned  sheet-iron  is  heated  over  the  flame  of  a 
spirit  lamp  the  tin  will  fuse  all  around  and  a  round 
spot  will  be  formed,  whose  circumference  will  vary 
according  to  the  time  the  sheet  is  held  over  the 
flame.  When  the  flame  is  removed  the  place  of  its 
application  will  be  recognized  as  a  center  of  stellated 
crystallization.  Pure  tin  is  best  for  this  purpose.  The 
moire  is,  as  a  rule,  obtained  by  the  exposure  of  tin 
wrhich  is  carefully  cleaned,  to  the  action  of  sulphuric 
acid,  nitric  acid  or  hydro-chloric  acid,  the  surface  cov- 
ered with  moire  being  finally  freed,  as  much  as  possi- 
ble, from  the  oxides  produced  during  the  continuance 
of  the  operation. 

MOSAIC  GOLD. 

Mosaic  gold  is  a  copper-zinc  alloy  composed  of 
65  3-10  parts  Copper, 
34  7-10  parts  Zinc. 

MUCILAGE. 

To  prepare  mucilage,  such  as  is  sold  in  stationery 
stores:  Dextrine,  2  parts;  acetic  acid,  1  part;  water,  5 
parts;  alcohol,  1  part. 

MUCILAGE  FOR  LABELING  TIN. 

A  good  mucilage  for  sticking  labels  on  tin  is  one  of 
the  popular  wants  of  the  day.  Every  little  while, 
also,  formulas  or  methods  are  published,  and  we 
should  judge  from  this  that  many  of  the  methods 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  117 

given  are  not  very  satisfactory.    We  give  below  some 
of  the  most  general  methods  suggested. 

The  addition  of  about  3  or  4  per  cent,  aluminum 
sulphate  (not  alum),  or,  better  still,  about  10  per  cent, 
of  butter  of  antimony,  is  said  to  greatly  improve  the 
adhesiveness  of  the  mucilage.  Others  have  suggested 
roughening  the  surface  with  acids  in  small  degree  on 
applying  to  the  tin;  thus,  honey,  flour,  treacle,  etc., 
have  come  into  use  as  seen  in  formula  No.  1. 

(1)  Make  gum  tragacanth  into  a  mucilage  of  the 
desired  consistency  with  hot  water,  and  then  add  to 
it  10  per  cent,  of  flour. 

(2)  Boil  2  pounds  of  flour  with  1  quart  of  water 
to  make  a  stiff  paste;  add  2  ounces  of  tartaric  acid 
and  1  pint  of  molasses.    Boil  together  until  stiff  and 
add  10  drops  of  carbolic  acid. 

(3)  Shellac,  2  parts;  borax,  1  part;  water,  16  parts, 
are  boiled  together  until  the  shellac  dissolves. 

(4)  Add  1  ounce  of  dammar  varnish  to  4  ounces  of 
tragacantb  paste. 

(5)  Roughen  the  surface  with  emery  paper,  then 
apply  the  label,  preferably  with  water  glass  as  an 
adhesive  agent. 

(6)  Balsam  of  fir,  1  part;  turpentine,  3  parts.     Dis- 
solve.   This  is  only  applicable  with  good  qualities  of 
well-sized  labels. 

(7»  Clean  the  surface  by  rubbing  with  a  solution 
of  caustic  potash  and  then  thoroughly  wipe  before 
applying  the  label.  This  is  employed  on  the  prin- 
ciple of  attributing  the  difficulty  to  the  presence  of 
a  thin  film  of  grease,  and  is  also  the  case  with  the  ad- 
dition of  water  of  ammonia  to  the  paste. 

(8)  Brush  the  surface  over  with  a  thin  streak  of 
butter  of  antimony,  or  with  oleate  of  mercury,  clean 
well,  and  apply  the  label. 

(9)  Brush  over  with  strong  tannin  solution,  allow 
to  dry  and  apply  the  label,  previously  well  gummed. 

(10)  Apply  Venice  turpentine  to  good  starch  paste. 

(11)  Soften   good  glue  with   water  and   then  dis- 
solve in  it  acetic  acid  of  10  per  cent,  strength. 


118  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

(12)  About  15  per  cent,  of  glycerine  added  to  the 
paste  is  said  to  work  admirably. 

MUNTZ  METAL. 

Muntz  metal  is  a  copper-zinc  alloy  composed  of 
60  parts  Copper, 
40  parts  Zinc. 

NEOGEN. 

Neogen  is  an  alloy  consisting  of 

%  part    Aluminum, 
%  part     Bismuth, 
2     parts  Tin, 
12     parts  Nickel, 
27      parts  Zinc, 
58     parts  Copper. 

NEWTON'S  METAL 

Is  composed  of  tin  (3  parts),  lead  (5  parts),  bismuth 
(8  parts). 

NICKEL-ALUMINUM. 

Nickel-aluminum  is  an  alloy  composed  of  20  parts 
nickel  and  8  parts  aluminum,  used  for  decorative 
threads. 

NICKEL  CHLORINE. 

Nickel  chlorine  is  obtained  by  the  dissolution  in 
aqua  regia  of  metallic  nickel. 

NICKEL  HARD  LEAD. 

Nickel  hard  lead  is  an  alloy  composed  of  100  parts 
type  metal  and  5  parts  nickel,  used  for  types. 

NICKELING. 

To  nickel,  use  a  bath  of  2  pounds  of  the  double  sul- 
phate of  nickel  and  ammonium  and  1  pound  of  refined 
boracic  acid.  Boil  fifteen  minutes  and  then  cool. 

NICKELING  ZINC. 
To  nickel  zinc  amalgamate  the  zinc  first  in  a  solu- 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  119 

tion  of  chloride  or  nitrate  of  mercury,  acidulated  with 
sulphuric  or  muriatic  acid.  By  this  means  a  feeble 
current  of  electricity  will  answer  the  purpose. 

NICKEL  NITRIC. 

Nickel  nitric  is  a  deliquescent  emerald-green  powder 
obtained  by  the  dissolution  of  nickel  in  nitric  acid. 

NICKEL  PLATING  ON  ZINC. 

In  nickel  plating  zinc  the  zinc  is  cleansed  by  dilute 
hydrochloric  acid  and  thoroughly  washed.  It  is  then 
hung  in  the  nickel  bath  for  a  short  time,  and  on  tak- 
ing out  is  rinsed  and  thoroughly  scraped,  so  removing 
all  that  does,  not  adhere  firmly.  This  is  repeated 
until  the  zinc  is  covered  with  a  thin  film  of  nickel, 
which  can  afterward  be  made  as  thick  as  required. 
The  suitable  current  strength  is  easily  found.  When 
the  zinc  is  once  thoroughly  covered,  the  current  may 
be  increased  without  any  risk  of  peeling  off. 

NICKEL  SULPHATE. 

Nickel  sulphate  is  obtained  by  the  dissolution  of 
nickel  in  sulphuric  acid.  The  action  of  the  acid  is 
hastened  if  a  few  drops  of  nitric  acid  are  added 
thereto. 

NITRATE   OF   SILVER. 

Nitrate  of  silver  is  made  by  the  dissolution  of  silver 
in  moderately  diluted  nitric  acid  and  the  concentra- 
tion of  the  solution  after  it  has  separated  out  in 
anhydrous  table. 

NON-RUSTING  COATING. 

A  coating  which  does  not  oxidize  readily  upon  steel 
and  iron  wire  is  made  by  the  immersion  of  the  wire 
in  weak  acid  solution,  then  washing  same  and  drying 
it  at  176  degrees  Fahrenheit.    The  wire  is  then  to  be 
plunged  in  a  fluid  alloy  consisting  of 
9  parts  Lead, 
1  part    Silver, 
90  parts  Tin. 


120  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

NURNBERG  GOLD. 
Nurnberg  gold  is  an  alloy  consisting  of 
90      per  cent.  Copper, 
7y2  per  cent.  Aluminum, 
2y2  per  cent.  Gold. 

ORANGE  LUMINOUS  PAINTS. 

For  orange  luminous  paints,  46  parts  varnish  are 
mixed  with  17.6  parts  prepared  barium  sulphate,  1 
part  powdered  Indian  yellow,  1.5  parts  prepared  mad- 
der lake,  and  38  parts  luminous  calcium  sulphide. 

OROIDE. 

Oroide  is  a  copper-zinc  alloy  composed  of 
90  parts  Copper, 
10  parts  Zinc, 

or 

85  5-10  parts  Copper, 
14  5-10  parts  Zinc. 

OXIDIZING  SILVER  OR  COPPER. 

To  make  a  liquid  that  will  oxidize  silver  a  glossy 
black  by  dipping  small  articles  in  the  liquid:  Use  a 
solution  of  sulphide  of  potassium;  polish  metal  before, 
and  rub  with  a  soft  rag  or  chamois  after  immersion. 
To  make  a  liquid  that  will  oxidize  copper  or  oroide 
by  dipping  to  imitate  bronze:  Use  the  same  bath, 
but  have  it  quite  dilute.  If  for  outside  work,  simply 
oil  with  olive  oil,  and  let  the  weather  do  the  rest. 

OXIDIZING  ZINC. 

The  color  of  zinc  may  be  changed  by  immersing  the 
zinc  in  a  mixture  of  100  parts  sulphuric  acid.  100 
parts  nitric  acid,  and  common  salt  1  per  cent.  After 
remaining  a  little  while  in  the  mixture  it  acquires  a 
dead  lustre;  this  will  become  a  bright  one  if  the  ob- 
ject is  plunged  in  several  times,  and  rinsed  as  often. 
in  the  same  compound. 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  121 


PAINT  FOR  TIN  POTS. 

For  a  good  paint  for  tin  pots  use  the  following: 
Make  a  thick  varnish  of  shellac  dissolved  in  naphtha 
or  methylated  spirit.  Two  or  three  coats  should  be 
applied. 

PAINT   FOR   TIN   ROOFING. 

A  good  paint  for  a  tin  roof  is  made  from  common 
Spanish  brown,  Venetian  red,  or  yellow  ochre,  mixed 
with  either  pure  raw  linseed  oil,  or  equal  parts  linseed 
and  fish  oil;  the  only  partial  drying  of  the  latter  caus- 
ing a  degree  of  elasticity  in  the  coat  of  paint  which 
prevents  its  cracking  during  the  expansion  and  con- 
traction of  the  metal. 

PAINT  FOR  TIN  ROOF  AND  FOR  IRON. 

The  best  paint  for  tin  roof— a  paint  which  will  pre- 
serve the  tin  and  stand  wear,  also  is  a  good  paint  for 
iron:  Pure  linseed  oil,  or,  as  some  prefer,  equal  parts 
of  linseed  oil  and  good  fish  oil,  should  form  the  body, 
with  which  may  be  incorporated  Spanish  brown, 
Venetian  red  and  yellow  ochre.  This  should  be  laid 
on  in  good  body.  Only  the  best  materials  should  be 
used  to  paint  iron  surfaces.  Pure  linseed  oil  without 
the  admixture  of  any  volatile  oil  should  be  used  for 
the  body.  The  large  percentage  of  linolein  which  it 
contains  combines  with  the  oxygen  of  the  air  and 
forms  a  solid  translucent  substance  which  possesses 
much  substance  and  elasticity,  and  will  not  crack  or 
blister,  by  reason  of  the  expansion  and  contraction  of 
the  iron  with  the  variations  of  the  temperature.  It  is 
very  adhesive  and  impervious  to  water.  Red  lead 
with  linseed  oil  makes  a  specially  good  paint,  though 
other  colors  may  be  used.  Asphalt  or  pitch  dissolved 
in  turpentine  or  petroleum  and  mixed  with  a  portion 
of  linseed  oil  also  make  a  durable  paint  for  iron. 

PAINTING  ZINC. 

To  make  paint  adhere  to  sheet  zinc:  Made  a  mor- 
dant as  follows:  One  part  chloride  of  copper,  1  of  ni- 
trate of  copper,  and  1  of  sal-ammoniac,  dissolved  in 


122  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

04  parts  of  water,  to  which  add  one  part  of  commer- 
cial hydrochloric  acid.  The  sheets  of  zinc  should  be 
brushed  over  with  this  liquid,  when  they  will  assume 
a  dark  color.  After  they  are  dry  they  can  be  painted, 
and  the  paint  will  not  be  affected  by  changes  of  the 
weather. 

PxYINT-LUMINOUS. 

This  useful  paint  may,  it  is  said,  be  made  by  the 
following  simple  method:  Take  oyster  shells  and  clean 
them  with  warm  water;  put  them  into  the  fire  for 
half  an  hour;  at  the  end  of  that  time  take  them  out 
and  let  them  cool.  When  quite  cool,  pound  them 
fine,  and  take  away  any  gray  parts,  as  they  are  of  no 
use.  Put  the  powder  in  a  crucible  in  alternate  layers 
with  flour  and  sulphur.  Put  on  the  lid  and  cement 
with  sand  made  into  a  stiff  paste  with  beer.  When 
dry,  put  over  the  fire  and  bake  for  an  hour.  Wait 
until  quite  cold  before  opening  the  lid.  The  product 
ought  to  be  white.  You  must  separate  all  gray  parts, 
as  they  are  not  luminous.  Make  a  sifter  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner:  Take  a  pot,  put  a  piece  of  very  fine 
muslin  very  loosely  across  it,  tie  around  with  a  string. 
put  the  powder  into  the  top,  and  rake  about  until  only 
the  coarse  powder  remains;  open  the  pot  and  you  will 
find  a  very  small  powder;  mix  it  into  a  thin  paint 
with  gum  water,  as  two  thin  applications  are  better 
than  one  thick  one.  This  will  give  a  paint  that  will 
remain  luminous  far  into  the  night,  provided  it  is 
exposed  to  light  during  the  day. 

PAINTS— LUMINOUS   OIL-COLOR. 

For  making  gray  oil-color  luminous  paint  and  a  yel- 
lowish-brown oil-color  luminous  paint,  take  pure  lin- 
seed oil,  cold-press  it  and  thicken  by  heat. 

Then  for  the  gray  paint:  Take  45  parts  of  oil,  mix 
with  6  parts  prepared  barium  sulphate,  6  parts  pre- 
pared calcium  carbonate,  .05  part  ultramarine  blue, 
6.5  parts  gray  zinc  sulphide. 

For  the  yellowish-brown  oil-color  luminous  paint, 
take  48  parts  of  the  pure  linseed  oil,  10  parts  precipi- 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  123 

tated  barium  sulphate,  8  parts  auripigment,  and  34 
parts  luminous  calcium  sulphide. 

PAPER— FIREPROOF. 

Fireproof  paper  may  be  made  from  a  pulp  consist- 
ing of  1  part  of  vegetable  fibre,  2  parts  of  asbestos, 
1-10  part  borax,  1-5  part  of  alum.  The  ink  is  made 
from  85  parts  of  graphite,  .8  part  of  copal  varnish,  7.5 
parts  of  copperas,  30  parts  of  tincture  of  nutgalls,  and 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  indigo  carmine. 

PASTE  FOR  CLEANING  BRASS. 

Rotten  stone,  4%  pounds;  oxalic  acid  (dissolved  in 
water),  2  ounces;  soft  soap,  8  ounces;  sweet  oil,  8 
ounces;  boiling  water,  1  pound;  spirits  of  turpentine, 
1  ounce.  Mix. 

PASTE  FOR  FURNACE  PIPES. 

Well-prepared  bill-stickers'  paste  is  as  good  as  any- 
thing we  know  of  for  pasting  asbestos  to  tin  hot  air 
or  furnace  pipes,  and  will  not  scale  off  when  the 
pipes  are  heated. 

PASTE  FOR  LABELS. 

Here  is  a  receipt  for  fastening  labels  on  tin  which 
makes  a  strong  mucilage:  Soften  good  glue  (fish  glue 
is  most  tenacious)  in  water;  then  boil  it  with  strong 
vinegar  and  thicken  the  liquid,  during  boiling,  with 
fine  wheat  flour,  so  that  a  paste  results;  or  starch 
paste,  with  which  a  little  Venice  turpentine  has  been 
incorporated  while  it  was  warm. 

PASTE  METAL  POLISH. 

A  "paste"  metal  polish  for  cleaning  and  polishing 
brass  is  thus  made:  Oxalic  acid,  1  part;  iron  peroxide, 
15  parts;  powdered  rotten  stone,  20  parts;  palm  oil, 
60  parts;  petroleum,  4  parts.  See  that  solids  are 
thoroughly  pulverized  and  sifted,  then  add  and  thor- 
oughly incorporate  oil  and  petrolatum. 


124  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

PASTING  LABELS  ON  TIN. 
For  pasting  labels  on  tin,  use  the  following: 

(1)  Four    parts    shellac.    2    parts    borax.    30    parts 
water;  boil  until  the  shellac  is  dissolved. 

i2)  Add  4  ounces  dammar  varnish  to  \  pound  of 
tragacanth  mucilage. 

(3)  Balsam  of  fir,  1  part;  turpentine.  3  parts;  use 
only  for  varnished  labels. 

(4)  Butter  of  antimony  is  good  to  prepare  the  tin 
for  the  label. 

(5)  Venice  turpentine  added  to  good  starch  paste 
makes  an  excellent  mounting  medium. 

(0)  A  paste  for  pasting  paper  on  tin  is  composed  of 
the  following:  Dissolve  rye  flour  in  a  solution  of  caus- 
tic soda,  dilute  with  water,  and  in  so  doing  stir  all 
the  time.  To  this  paste  add  Venetian  turpentine — a 
few  drops  to  each  half  pound  of  flour. 

PASTE— STOVE. 

To  make  a  good  stove  paste:  Dissolve  ordinary  laun- 
dry soap  to  about  the  consistency  of  soft  soap  and  add 
sufficient  plumbago  and  carbon  black  to  make  it  just 
thick  enough  to  pour  while  hot. 

PASTE  STOVE  POLISH. 

Put  enough  plumbago  into  black  varnish  to  thicken 
it.  Thin  with  benzine  or  gasolene,  and  polish  before 
dry. 

(2)  A  good  paste  polish  Is  made  by  using  2  pounds 
plumbago,  5  gills  Japan  dryer  or  furniture  varnish,  1 
gill  asphaltum  varnish,  and  thin  down  for  use  with 
gasolene;  or,  can  omit  the  asphalt  and  use  lampblack, 
a  trial  of  which  will  determine  the  quantity.     Mix 
as  you  want  to  use  the  polish. 

(3)  For  cracks  in  stoves,  finely  pulverized  iron  (pro- 
cured at  a  drug  store)  made  into  a  thick  paste  with 
water-glass.     The  hotter  the  fire  the   more  the  ce- 
ment melts  and  combines,  and  the  more  completely 
does  the  crack  become  closed. 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  125 

PEWTER  BRITANNIA  METAL. 

Pewter  Britannia  metal  is  composed  of 
1  15-100  parts  Lead, 
1     6-10    parts  Copper, 

5  7-100  parts  Antimony, 
81    2-10    parts  Tin, 

or 

1  8-10  parts  Lead, 
1  8-10  parts  Copper, 
7  6-10  parts  Antimony, 
89  3-10  parts  Tin, 

or 

1  6-10    parts  Bismuth, 
3  6-100  parts  Zinc, 
1  6-10    parts  Copper, 

6  6-10    parts  Antinomy, 
83  3-10     parts  Tin. 

PHOSPHIDE   OF   COPPER. 

Phosphide  of  copper  is  made  by  heating  together  a 
mixture  of  2  parts  of  granulated  copper,  1  part  of 
finely  pulverized  coal,  and  4  parts  of  super-phosphate 
of  lime  in  a  crucible,  the  temperature  being  moderate. 
The  melted  phosphide  of  copper  containing  14  per 
cent,  of  phosphorus  will  separate  on  the  bottom  of 
the  crucible.  Another  method  is  to  prepare  phosphide 
of  copper  by  the  addition  of  phosphorus,  by  a  copper 
sulphide  solution,  and  boiling  same,  and  sulphur  to 
be  added  as  the  sulphide  is  precipitated.  The  pre- 
cipitation is  carefully  dried,  melted  and  cast  into  in- 
gots. These  ingots,  when  in  perfect  condition,  are 
very  black. 

PHOSPHIDE  OF  TIN. 

To  prepare  phosphide  of  tin,  place  a  bar  of  zinc  in 
an  aqueous  solution  of  chloride  of  tin.  The  sponge- 
like  tin  particles,  that  are  separated,  are  poured  when 
moist  into  a  crucible,  upon  whose  bottom  sticks  of 
phosphorus  have  been  placed.  The  tin  is  then  pressed 
tightly  into  the  crucible  and  submitted  to  moderate 
warmth,  This  heating  is  to  continue  until  the  flames 


126  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

of  burning  phosphorus  die  out.  After  the  operation 
is  done  there  is  found  on  the  bottom  of  the  crucible  a 
coarse,  crystalline  mass,  of  a  white  color,  consisting 
of  a  pure  phosphide  of  tin. 

PICKLING  BRASS. 

To  pickle  brass,  heat  the  article  in  a  muffle  at  a 
dark-red  heat  and  then  dip  same  in  diluted  sulphuric- 
acid,  in  order  to  produce  a  clean  metallic  surface. 
After  this  heating  and  immersion,  throw  the  article 
to  be  pickled  in  a  tub  filled  with  weak  and  impure 
nitric  acid.  This  tub,  or  trough,  is  generally  con- 
structed of  wood  lined  with  lead  plates,  and  is  filled 
with  nitric  acid  that  may,  perhaps,  be  best  desig- 
nated as  second  ground,  as  it  has  been  used  before 
for  stronger  baths.  The  articles  when  pure  and  of 
uniform  color  should  be  taken  from  the  bath  and 
rinsed  in  water,  then  dried  in  sawdust.  They  are 
next  deadened.  The  way  this  is  accomplished  is  by 
putting  them  into  a  nitric  acid  bath,  diluted  with 
about  one-third  water.  The  dipped  articles  acquire  a 
coat  that  looks  like  a  milky  scum,  which  vanishes 
after  a  minute  or  two.  Absolute  uniformity  is  vital, 
and  when  this  is  obtained  the  articles  should  be  im- 
mersed in  strong  nitric  acid,  this  being  followed  up 
by  dipping  them  in  a  number  of  baths  of  water,  in 
order  to  take  away  all  traces  of  acid.  If  the  articles 
contain  depressions  which  might  retain  acid,  it  must 
be  rapidly  dipped  in  a  warm  potash  solution.  The 
article  when  washed  should  be  allowed  to  lie  in  clean 
water,  to  which  an  addition  of  crude  pulverized  tar- 
tar has  been  made.  This  method  of  treatment  gives 
them  the  beautiful  dead  color  on  which  so  high  a  val- 
uation is  commonly  placed.  If  it  is  desired  to  pickle 
the  articles  so  they  will  show  lustre,  they  should  be 
placed  at  once,  after  being  cleaned,  in  strong  nitric- 
acid;  and  should  the  very  highest  degree  of  lustre  be 
desired,  the  entire  surface  should  be  thoroughly  gono 
over  with  a  scratch-brush.  To  polish  same  finely  pol- 
ished steel  tools  should  be  used,  the  articles  then  to 
be  brushed  over  with  ox-gall,  and  during  the  process 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  127 

be  occasionally  dipped  in.  water  to  which  a  little  tar- 
tar has  been  added.  Then  dry  same  In  wood  shav- 
ings in  an  iron  pan  over  a  heated  hearth,  lacquered 
with  cold  shellac  solution,  which  can  be  colored  by 
alkanet,  dragon's  blood,  etc. 

PICKLING  CASTINGS. 

For  pickling  casting  to  remove  the  scale  prepare  a 
bath  in  a  vessel  (lined  with  lead)  of  3  parts  muriatic 
acid  to  1  of  water,  and  leave  from  five  to  twenty 
minutes. 

PICKLING  GERMAN  SILVER. 

To  pickle  particles  of  German  silver,  first  dip  them 
in  a  compound  of  12  parts  of  water  and  1  part  of  ni- 
tric acid.  The  next  step  is  to  quickly  immerse  them 
in  a  compound  of  equal  parts  of  sulphuric  acid  and 
nitric  acid,  and  then  rinse  them  in  water,  finally  dry- 
ing them  in  pine  sawdust.  This  is  a  delicate  opera- 
tion, and  very  great  care  should  be  taken  to  see  that 
the  acid  is  not  too  strong  or  that  the  articles  do  not 
stay  in  the  bath  too  long,  as  in  either  case  great  loss 
and  damage  would  ensue  by  the  dissolution  of  the 
metal.  To  stop  the  articles  from  rusting,  wash  them 
repeatedly  with  clean  water  and  dry  carefully. 

PICKLING  ZINC. 

To  pickle  zinc,  scour  it  with  sand  and  powdered 
pumice  and  apply  a  solution  of  potassium-ammonium 
tartrate  thickened  with  sufficient  clay  to  form  a  fluid 
paste.  After  allowing  a  few  hours  to  elapse  rub  the 
articles  with  a  brush  dipped  from  time  to  tine  into 
fine  sand  wet  with  the  pickle. 

PINCHBECK. 

Pinchbeck  is  a  copper-zinc  alloy  composed  of 
93  0-10  parts  Copper, 
6  4-10  parts  Zinc. 

PLATING  WITH  PLATINUM. 

To  plate  with  platinum,  the  clean  metallic  surface  is 


128  MANUAL    OF   RECEIPTS. 

planished  and  rubbed  with  a  solution  of  1  part  plati- 
num chloride,  dissolved  in  15  parts  alcohol,  and  50 
parts  ether,  and  when  dry  polished  in  a  warm  place 
with  a  dry  cotton  or  woolen  cloth.  Bad  places  in 
platinum  plating  may  be  made  good  in  a  similar  man- 
ner. The  coating  resembles  steel  in  appearance,  and 
imparts  to  bronze,  brass  or  copper  utensils  a  fine 
platinum  surface. 

PLATIXIDE. 

Platinide  is  an  alloy  composed  of  60  parts  platinum, 
35  parts  nickel,  2  parts  gold,  and  3  parts  iron,  used 
for  crucibles  and  chemical  utensils. 

PLUMBER'S  SOIL. 

To  make  plumber's  soil,  boil  glue  slowly  in  water 
until  it  is  all  dissolved.  This,  of  course,  will  give  you 
a  thin  solution  of  glue.  Then  stir  in  enough  lamp- 
black to  make  the  mass  the  consistency  of  paste, 
simmering  the  paste  over  a  slow  fire  for  the  space  of 
half  an  hour.  Pursue  the  following  method  in  testing 
your  compound:  Apply  it  with  a  brush  to  a  piece  of 
lead  and  allow  it  to  get  cool;  then  bend  the  lead  back- 
ward and  forward  in  the  hand  in  order  to  judge  of  its 
adhesiveness.  If  it  cracks  while  the  lead  is  under- 
going the  process,  there  is  too  much  glue  in  the  com- 
pound, and  it  is  n.  g.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  it  does 
not  crack  and  adheres  to  the  lead,  it  is  all  right. 

POLISH  FOR  PRESSED  ARTICLES  OF  BRASS. 

For  polish  for  pressed  articles  of  brass,  use  an 
agent  consisting  of  equal  volumes  of  ox-gall  and 
water  boiled  together.  Keep  the  fluid,  when  cold,  in 
a  well-corked  bottle,  and,  when  using  same,  pour  it 
into  a  glass  or  porcelain  vessel. 

POLISHING  ANTIMONY. 

Polish  antimony  with  burnt  magnesia  upon  soft 
leather  or  with  fine  jewelers'  rouge. 


MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS.  129 

POLISHING      ARTICLES      OF      STEEL,      GILT, 
BRONZE,  GOLD,  ETC. 

Jewelers'  rouge  is  artificially  made  as  follows:  Pul- 
verized saltpetre  and  corumou  salt  are  mixed  with 
pulverized  green  vitriol,  the  compound  being  stirred 
with  water  to  a  paste  and  boiled  down  to  dryness  in  a 
crucible.  This  compound  is  heated  in  a  Hessian  cru- 
cible to  a  red  heat  until  it  becomes  homogeneous  and 
quiet.  Then  it  is  poured  out,  and,  when  cool,  pow- 
dered, boiled  with  water,  and  washed.  This  powder 
should  be  slightly  elutriated  for  the  elimination  of 
grains  of  sand  which  may  have  been  imparted  to  it 
from  the  crucible.  Collect  the  powder  on  a  cloth  and 
dry  same.  As  a  substitution  for  50  parts  of  crystal- 
lized green  vitriol,  25  parts  of  pure  nitrate  of  soda, 
18  parts  of  sodium  sulphate  and  13  parts  of  common 
salt  may  be  employed.  If  more  saltpetre  is  used  the 
preparation  has  a  reddish  tinge,  while  an  addition  of 
the  amount  of  potash  sulphate  gives  it  a  more  violet 
color.  An  addition  of  salt  makes  it  browner  and  the 
jewelers'  rouge  is  obtained  in  the  lustrous  lamina.  A 
second  method  consists  in  the  dissolution,  in  4  parts 
of  water,  of  1  part  of  soda  and  the  heating  of  this 
solution  to  the  boiling  point,  gradually  stirring  into 
the  boiling  fluid  a  little  more  than  y2  part  of  green 
vitriol,  and  continue  the  boiling.  After  the  substance 
is  cold,  on  the  bottom  of  the  vessel  will  be  found  a 
greenish-white  mass  of  ferrous  carbonate.  The  su- 
per-natant  fluid  is  then  poured  off.  the  precipitation 
is  washed  in  an  abundance  of  water  and  then  dried 
and  converted  into  red  ferric  oxide  by  a  little  glowing 
in  a  crucible. 

POLISHING  BALLS  FOR  SILVER. 

Polishing  balls  for  silver  are  given  their  form  by 
means  of  an  agglutinant.  It  is  made  by  thoroughly 
stirring  together  5  parts  of  whiting  and  2  parts  of 
yellow  tripoli  and  working  the  mixture  together  with 
a  solution  of  1  part  gum-arabic  in  12  parts  of  water, 
until  it  becomes  a  stiff  paste,  and  this  is  formed  into 


130  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

balls  (with  the  hands)  about  as  big  as  the  egg  of  an 
ordinary  pigeon.  These  balls  should  be  dried  in  mod- 
erately warm  room,  and  after  their  perfect  calidifica- 
tion  should  be  packed  in  tin  foil. 

POLISHING  BRASS. 

To  polish  brass,  use  ordinary  whiting  or  chalk  and 
a  damp  cotton  or  woolen  cloth.  If  the  metal  is 
stained  or  tarnished,  then  use  rotten  stone  and  oil 
on  a  cloth,  and  finish  with  whiting  for  a  gloss.  If 
corroded  and  blackened,  use  oxalic  acid  in  water  with 
the  rotten  stone,  instead  of  oil. 

POLISHING  BRASS,  COPPER  AND  TOMBAC. 

First  plunge  the  articles  in  nitric  acid  and  then 
wash  rapidly  in  a  large  quantity  of  water,  then  dip 
them  with  constant  movement  for  a  few  seconds  in  a 
mixture  which  has  been  allowed  to  stand  at  least 
twelve  hours,  composed  of 

53  ounces  Sulphuric  Acid, 

70V2  ounces  Nitric  Acid, 

2  82-100  ounces  Hydro-chloric  Acid, 

3  17-100  ounces  Sal-ammoniac, 
5      29-100  ounces  Alum, 

3V£  ounces  Lampblack. 

Take  the  articles  from  this  bath  and  wash  same 
rapidly  in  a  large  quantity  of  water.  The  method  of 
preparing  this  bath  is  as  follows:  First  pour  the  nitric 
acid  into  the  vessel,  next  adding  the  finely  pulver- 
ized salts,  followed  by  the  hydro-chloric  acid,  and 
after  an  hour  or  so,  gradually  add  the  sulphuric  acid. 
Care  should  be  taken  in  mixing  these  acids,  as  a  large 
amount  of  heat  is  originated  and  fumes  injurious  to 
the  lungs  are  developed;  hence,  the  mixture  is  best 
made  out  of  doors  or  under  a  chimney  with  an  ex- 
cellent draught.  A  large  vessel  should  be  used,  be- 
cause otherwise  the  sulphuric  acid  might  run  over-. 
This  mixture  can  be  used  for  a  considerably  long 
time,  as  it  is  only  necessary  to  add  a  little  sulphuric- 
acid  and  by  and  by  a  little  nitric  acid  and  sal-am- 
moniac. 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  131 

(2)  Brass,  copper,  tombac  and  gold  and  silver  are 
polished  with  Vienna  lime  and  oil. 

POLISHING  CARTRIDGES. 

To  polish  cartridges,  wet  10  parts  of  emery  dust  and 
50  parts  of  elutriated  quartz  with  100  parts  of  a  30 
per  cent,  gum  tragacanth  solution,  the  mass  being 
given  the  requisite  consistency  with  a  solution  of  100 
parts  of  soap  dissolved  in  150  parts  spirits  of  wine. 

(2)  Infusorial  earth,  either  alone  or  impregnated 
with  oleic,  is  a  good  polish  for  cartridges. 

POLISHING  COPPER. 

Copper  parts  are  polished  by  rubbing  them  with 
rotten  stone  and  oil,  followed  by  an  application  of  a 
flannel  rag,  and  finally  with  leather.  If  a  solution  of 
oxalic  acid  is  applied  to  dull  brass,  the  layer  of  oxide 
is  quickly  removed  and  the  metal  uncovered.  The 
next  step  is  to  wash  off  the  acid  with  water  and  rub 
the  brass  with  soft  leather. 

Articles  plunged  in  a  solution  of  hydro-chloric  acid 
with  alum,  triturated  with  water  for  a  few  seconds, 
are  given  a  golden  color.  A  pretty  color,  ranging  be- 
tween orange  and  gold,  is  given  polished  copper  by  its 
brief  immersion  in  a  solution  of  crystallized  acetate 
of  copper.  A  violet  color  is  given  copper  by  its  brief 
plunging  in  a  solution  of  chloride  of  antimony,  fol- 
lowed by  its  rubbing  with  a  stick  enwrapped  with 
cotton. 

POLISHING  GOLD. 

Polish  gold  with- jewelers'  rouge,  mixed  with  alco- 
hol, and  applied  to  the  buff-stick. 

POLISHING  IRON  AND  STEEL. 

Before  polishing  iron  and  steel,  treat  them  with 
emery,  then  use  either  tin,  putty,  Vienna  lime  or  oxide 
of  iron,  either  the  polishing  material  or  the  article 
being  wet  with  water  or  a  spirit. 


132  MANUAL    OF   RECEIPTS. 

POLISHING   METALS. 

The  first  step  in  the  polishing  of  metals  consists  in 
rubbing  down  the  surface  by  some  hard  material  that 
will  produce  a  series  of  scratches  in  all  directions,  the 
level  of  which  is  practically  identical,  and  which  ob- 
literate file-marks.  For  this  purpose  pumice  and 
water  or  sand  and  water  applied  upon  a  piece  of  soft 
wood  is  used.  After  the  removal  of  the  first  coarse 
marks  the  next  step  is  the  removal  of  the  marks  left 
by  the  first  polishing  material  by  means  of  finely-pow- 
dered pumice-stone  ground  up  with  olive  oil.  To  pro- 
ceed with  the  polishing  even  finer  powders  are  next 
used,  such  as  tripoli  and  rotten  stone.  For  the  higher 
degree  of  polish  putty  of  tin  and  crocus  martis  are 
also  used.  The  entire  process  consists  simply  in  the 
removal  of  the  coarse  scratches  by  the  substitution  of 
those  which  are  finer  and  finer,  until  you  can  no 
longer  see  them  with  the  naked  eye.  And  even  quite 
a  while  after,  should  the  surface  be  subjected  to  a 
microscopic  examination,  it  can  be  seen  that  the  sur- 
face which  did  not  appear  to  have  any  scratches  is 
covered  all  over  with  an  infinite  number  of  them,  all 
of  which  are  so  infinitesimal  as  to  require  a  high  mag- 
nifier for  their  discovery.  A  great  care  is  absolutely 
essential  to  have  the  last  polishing  material  uniform- 
ly fine,  for  if,  by  any  mischance,  a  single  grain  of  any 
coarse  substance  is  mixed  with  it,  visible  scratches 
instead  of  a  perfectly  polished  surface  will  be  pro- 
duced. 

POLISHING  NICKEL  WATCH  MOVEMENTS. 

To  polish  nickel  watch  movements  which  have  be- 
come stained,  add  1  part  of  sulphuric  acid  to  50  parts 
of  rectified  alcohol,  and  place  the  parts  to  be  polished 
in  this  fluid  for  about  15  seconds,  immersing  also  only 
a  few  at  a  time  so  as  to  be  enabled  to  take  them  our 
at  the  proper  time,  a  longer  immersion  being  harmful. 
After  taking  them  from  this  bath,  rinse  the  parts  in 
clean  water  and  put  them  for  a  few  minutes  in  recti- 
fied alcohol;  then  dry  them  in  sawdust  or  with  soft 
linen.  Nickel  watch  movements  which  have  been 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  133 

cleaned  by  this  method  have  practically  the  appear- 
ance of  being  new,  as  their  smooth  surface  is  not 
marred  at  all,  as  would  be  the  case  if  a  file  were  used. 

POLISHING  PASTE. 

A  scouring  paste,  said  to  be  of  the  very  best,  con- 
sists of  oxalic  acid,  1  part;  iron  peroxide,  15  parts; 
powdered  rotten  stone,  20  parts;  palm  oil,  60  parts; 
petrolatum,  4  parts.  Pulverize  the  oxalic  acid  and  add 
rouge  and  rotten  stone,  mixing  thoroughly,  and  sift 
to  remove  all  grit;  then  add  gradually  the  palm  oil 
and  petrolatum,  incorporating  thoroughly.  Add  oil 
of  myrbane  or  oil  of  lavender  to  suit. 

POLISHING  PASTE  FOR  BRASS. 

A  good  polishing  paste  for  brass  is  made  by  the  dis- 
solution, in  120  parts  of  boiling  water,  of  15  parts 
oxalic  acid,  and  to  this  is  added  500  parts  of  pumice 
powder,  GO  parts  salt  soap,  60  parts  of  any  kind  of  fat 
and  7  parts  of  oil  of  turpentine. 

POLISHING  PASTE  FOR  SILVERING. 

For  a  polish  paste  for  silver,  take  a  few  drops  of 
essence  of  mirbane  and  perfume  with  same  3  parts 
of  vaseline,  mixing  into  this  1  part  of  burnt  harts- 
horn, 1  part  cuttle-bone  (pulverized),  and  5  parts 
whiting,  so  that  a  thorough  compound  of  the  con- 
sistency of  butter  is  obtained. 

POLISHING  POMADE. 

A  polishing  pomade  is  mixed  by  stirring  5  pounds 
fine  colcothar  into  a  heated  mixture  of  1  pound  of 
lard  and  4  pounds  American  mineral  oil. 

(2)  Mix  1  pound  fine  colcothar  into  a  melted  mass 
consisting  of  5  pounds  yellow  vaseline. 

(3)  Melt  2  pounds  vaseline  and  2  pounds  palm  oil. 
and  into  this  melted  mass  stir  14  11-100  ounces  of 
tripoli,  %^  ounces  oxalic  acid,  1  pound  ferric  oxide. 
Any  of  these  pomades  can  be  nicely  perfumed  by  the 
use  of  a  little  essence  of  mirbaue. 


134  MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS. 

POLISHING  POWDER  FOR  GOLD. 

A  polishing  powder  for  gold  consists  of 
17  4-10  parts  Chalk, 
4  3-10  parts  Alumina, 
1  7-10  parts  Carbonate  of  Magnesia. 
4  3-10  parts  Carbonate  of  Lead. 

1  7-10  parts  Jewelers'  Rouge. 

2  6-10  parts  Silica. 

Another  polish  for  gold  articles  is  made  by  the  dis- 
solution of  iron  filings  in  hydro-chloric  acid,  until  gas 
ceases  developing.  The  resultant  chloride  of  iron 
should  be  compounded  with  liquid  ammonia  as  long 
as  a  precipitation  is  made.  This  precipitation  should 
be  collected  and  dried  without  further  washing,  at  a 
temperature  which  will  prevent  the  adhesive  ammo- 
nia from  volatilization.  This  converts  the  ferrous  ox- 
ide, originally  precipitated,  into  ferric,  and  the  re- 
sultant mixture  is  composed  of  30  per  cent,  of  ammo- 
nia and  70  per  cent,  of  ferric  oxide. 

POLISHING  POWDER— FOR  GOLDSMITHS. 

Take  7  parts  sesquioxide  of  iron.  3  .parts  sal-am- 
moniac. Mix  thoroughly. 

POLISHING  POWDER  FOR  SILVER. 

A  polishing  powder  for  silver  consists  of 
8  parts  Flake  White, 
2  parts  Pulverized  Alum, 
4  parts  Cream  of  Tartar  (finely  pulverized). 
Mixed  and  worked  into  a  stiff  paste  with  strong 
wine  vinegar  and  then  dried  in  ammonia.     The  dry 
mass  is  pulverized,   worked  again  to   a  paste   with 
vinegar.     This  is  done  once  again  after  drying,  and 
the  resultant  substance  is  pulverized. 

A  second  powder  is  made  by  thoroughly  mixing,  by 
means  of  a  sieve, 

%  part     Citric  Acid  (pulverized), 
1      part     Soda, 
10      parts  Whiting  (fine). 
When  it  is  desired  to  use  this  powder,  wet  it  in  or- 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  135 

der  to  effect  the  dissolution  of  the  soda  and  citric 
acid,  so  that  they  may  exert  a  chemical  action  upon 
the  silver. 

A  third  powder  consists  of 
5  parts  Chalk, 
1  part    Jewelers'  Rouge, 
1  part    Pulverized  Hartshorn. 

POLISHING  SILVER. 

Polish  silver  with  a  burnisher  or  bloodstone,  using 
with  same  either  water  or  beer. 

POLISHING  SILVERED  WARE. 
Polish  silvered  and  plated  ware  with  Vienna  lime. 

POLISHING  SILVERWARE. 

To  polish  silverware  moisten  a  rag  or  brush  with  a 
solution  consisting  of 

40  parts  Water, 
2  parts  Sal-ammoniac, 
1  part     Caustic  Ammonia, 
4  parts  Sodium  Hypo-sulphite. 

POLISHING   STEEL. 

To  polish  steel,  rub  it  with  a  piece  of  emery  paper, 
from  which  some  of  the  roughness  has  been  removed 
by  rubbing  on  an  old  knife. 

POLISHING  STEEL  OBJECTS. 

To  polish  steel  objects,  use  a  wheel  or  disk  made  of 
1G  parts  of  tin,  1  of  zinc,  to  the  flat  side  of  which  jew- 
elers' rouge  wet  with  alcohol  is  applied.  Dry  articles 
and  burnish  them  with  agate. 

POLISHING  SOAP. 

A  good  polishing  soap  is  made  by  stirring  together 
24  pounds  of  cocoanut  oil  and  12  pounds  of  lye  at  38 
to  40  degrees  Be,  and  after  the  mass  is  polished,  3 
pounds  colcothar  mixed  with  3  pounds  of  water  and 


130  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

1  12-100  ounces  spirits  of  sal-ammoniac  is   stirred 
into  it. 

(2)  Mix  thoroughly 

5  pounds  Colcothar, 

1  pound     Ammonium-carbonate, 

with 
25  pounds  Liquid  Cocoanut  Oil  Soap. 

(3)  Mix  thoroughly 

2  pounds  Tripoli, 

1  pound    White  Lead, 

I  pound     Pulverized  Alum, 

1  pound    Tartaric  Acid, 

with 
25  pounds  Liquid  Cocoanut  Oil  Soap. 

(4)  Stir  together 

5  pounds  Calcined  Oxalite  of  Iron, 

with 
25  pounds  Liquid  Cocoanut  Oil  Soap. 

(5)  Pulverize  with  great  care  332  parts  of  tartaric 
acid,  265  parts  of  infusorial  earth  and  332  parts  of 
chalk  or  white  bole.     Free  the  infusorial  earth  and 
the  bole  or  chalk  from  adhering  pebbles  by  means  of 
a  sieve.     Water  is  poured  over  the  sifted  mass  in  a 
vessel,  which  is  then  stirred  thoroughly  and  for  three 
or  four  minutes  the  bole,  which  is  finely  divided  in  the 
water,  is  poured  off  and  the  operation  is  repeated. 
After  allowing  the  bole  to  settle,  and  decanting  the 
supernatant  water,  the  sediment  is  filtered  and  dried 
over  a  stove.     After  the  preparation  of  the   ingre- 
dients,  as  above,   add  to  the  mixture  200  parts   of 
glycerine,  200  parts  of  water,  and  25  parts  of  alcohol. 

(6)  Another  polishing  soap  is  made  by  compound- 
ing together  8  Ibs.  soda  lye,  of  23  degrees  Be,  with 
25  Ibs.  cocoanut  oil,  the  mixture  being  boiled  until 
the  formation  of  a  clear,  glue-like  mass.     After  the 
soap  is  solid  enough,  1  Ib.  of  chalk  and  %  Ib.  of  white 
lead,  tartar  and  alum,  all  previously  converted  into 
a  fine  powder,  are  added,  the  mass  being  poured  into 
small  molds  about  10  inches  long  and  open  on  top 
and  bottom  for  the  ready  removal  of  a  cold  soap.    If 


MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS.  137 

desired,  commercial  cocoanut  oil  soap  may  be  used 
instead  of  this  special  soap.  This  is  the  process:  5^ 
Ibs.  of  cocoanut  oil  soap  are  shaved  finely  and  melted 
by  adding  water;  constantly  stir  this  melted  soap  and 
add  to  it  3  ounces  of  alum,  3  ounces  of  white  lead,  3 
ounces  of  tartar,  6  34-100  ounces  of  chalk,  all  of  which 
have  been  finely  pulverized. 

POLISHING  TIN. 

To  polish  tin,  use  whiting  or  Vienna  lime,  the  first 
being  applied  with  chamois  and  the  second  with  linen 
rags.  If  merely  places  in  relief  are  to  be  polished  a 
broad,  rounded-off  burnisher  is  applied,  and  as  a  pol- 
isher, white  of  egg,  ox-gall  diluted  with  water,  soap 
water,  or  a  decoction  of  soap  root,  is  used.  The  ar- 
ticles are  then  washed  with  water  slightly  tinged  with 
tartar  and  dried. 

POLISHING  WATER. 

A  good  polishing  water  is  secured  by  shaking  to- 
gether 1  Ib.  of  alcohol,  8  8-100  ounces  whiting,  1M> 
drachms  spirits  of  sal-ammoniac. 

POLISHING  ZINC. 

(1)  To  polish  sheet  zinc  a  good  method  is  found  in 
the  following:  First  scrape  and  finally  polish  the  zinc 
with  pulverized  wood  charcoal  or  Vienna  lime.     The 
polished  articles  are  generally  dried  in  heated  saw- 
dust and  after  drying  freed  from  adhering  sawdust 
with  a  cotton  rag  or  soft  leather. 

(2)  Old  zinc  can  hardly  be  made  to  look  like  new, 
but  may  be  improved  by  scouring  it  with  dilute  acid 
and  a  scratch  brush  or  dust  of  scouring  brick.    It  may 
then  be  rubbed  with  some  finer  polishing  substance. 

(3)  Mix  1  part  of  muriatic  acid  with  2  parts  of 
water.    Apply  to  the  zinc  and  rub  the  same  with  sand 
until  bright.     Then  dry  well  and  rub  with  a  cloth 
dipped  in  oil. 

POLISH  STEEL  ON  IRON. 

Pulverize  and  dissolve  the  following  articles  in  1 
qt.  hot  water:  Blue  vitriol,  1  oz.;  borax,  1  oz.;  prussiate 


138  MANUAL    OF   RECEIPTS. 

of  potash,  1  oz.;  charcoal,  1  oz.;  salt,  y2  pt.;  then  add 
1  gal.  linseed  oil,  mix  well,  bring  your  iron  or  steel  to 
the  proper  heat  and  cool  in  the  solution. 

It  is  said  the  manufacturer  of  the  Judson  governor 
paid  $100  for  this  receipt,  the  object  being  to  case- 
harden  iron,  so  that  it  would  take  a  bright  polish  like 
steel. 

POTASSIUM  FERRIC Y AM DE. 

Potassium  ferricyanide  is  made  by  allowing  chlorine 
to  act  upon  a  solution  of  yellow  prussiate  of  potash. 
It  comes  in  the  form  of  prismatic  and  occasionally 
tubular  crystals. 

POTIN. 

Potin  is  a  copper-zinc  alloy  composed  of 
71  9-10  parts  Copper, 
24  9-10  parts  Zinc. 

1  2-10  parts  Tin, 

2  parts  Lead. 

POWDER  FOR  SILVERING  METALS. 

A  powder  for  silvering  metal  is  made  as  follows: 
Nitrate  of  silver,  10  parts;  common  salt,  10  parts; 
cream  of  tartar,  30  parts;  moisten  with  wate>*  and  ap- 

piy. 

PRESERVATIVE  FOR  IRON  AND  STEEL. 

To  make  a  permanent  preservative  for  iron  or  steel, 
it  is  best  to  use  nothing  but  linseed  oil,  thickened 
with  a  pigment  related  to  the  metal  itself,  and  native 
oxide  or  a  roasted  oxide  of  iron  is  the  best  for  the 
purpose.  Boiled  linseed  oil  will  form  a  skin,  through 
which  no  oxidation  can  take  place. 

PRESERVING  POLISHED  IRON  SURFACES. 

To  preserve  polished  iron  surfaces  from  rust,  melt 
together  7  parts  fat  (tallow),  and  1  part  resin,  stir- 
ring the  same  until  it  cools.  Apply  in  a  half  liquid 
s,tate;  if  too  stiff,  thin  with  benzine  or  petroleum.  It 
preserves  the  polish,  and  can  easily  be  removed. 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  139 

PREVENTING     RUST     IN     IRON     AND     STEEL 
GOODS. 

For  the  purpose  of  preventing  steel  goods  and 
ground  hollow  ware,  also  halter  chains,  etc..  from 
rusting  while  exhibited  as  samples,  and  which  is 
cheap  and  will  come  off  easily,  caoutchouc  oil  is  rec- 
ommended. Spread  it  over  the  articles  with  a  piece 
of  flannel,  in  a  vei'y  thin  layer,  and  then  allow  it  to 
dry.  This  will  prevent  the  condensatioa  of  moisture, 
which  causes  rust,  and  can  be  removed  by  repeating 
the  treatment  and  washing  the  articles  after  twelve 
or  twenty-four  hours. 

PREVENTING  RUST  IN  RUSSIA  IRON. 

To  prevent  Russia  iron  from  rusting,  take  beeswax 
and  chip  very  fine  and  dissolve  in  benzine;  let  it  stand 
twenty-four  hours  before  using.  Apply  same  to  iron 
with  a  very  soft  brush  or  woolen  cloth. 

(2)  To  prevent  Russia  iron  from  rusting,  use  the 
following:  Add  1%  pints  of  cold  water  to  7  ounces  of 
quick  lime.  Let  the  mixture  stand  until  the  super- 
natant fluid  is  entirely  clear;  then  pour  this  off  and 
mix  it  with  enough  olive  oil  to  form  a  thick  cream, 
or,  rather,  to  the  consistency  of  melted  and  recon- 
gealed  butter.  Grease  your  articles  with  this  and 
then  wrap  them  up  in  paper. 

PRINTER'S  INK. 

For  the  production  of  printing  ink  fast  to  washing, 
take  5  parts  of  acetic  acid  and  dissolve  therein  1  part 
of  lunar  caustic.  Stand  away  this  solution  for  one 
day,  and  add  20  parts  of  copal  varnish,  to  which  a 
little  lampblack  is  added.  Since  the  brown  shade  of 
the  lunar  caustic  coloring  predominates  after  repeat- 
ed washings,  especially  if  the  wash  is  exposed  to  the 
sun,  it  is  advisable  to  give  the  print  a  greenish  ap- 
pearance by  moistening  it  lightly  with  a  few  drops 
of  water  in  which  a  little  potassium  iodide  has  been 
dissolved.  This  ink  should  be  used  as  fresh  as  possi- 
ble, and  the  lunar  caustic  dissolved  in  acetic  acid  and 
the  copal  varnish  solution  should,  therefore,  each  be 


140  MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS. 

kept  in  a  closed  flask,  from  which  the  quantity  neces- 
sary for  the  print  is  taken  each  time  in  the  said  pro- 
portion. 

PRODUCTION  OP  DAMASK  IN  RELIEF   UPON 
GUN-BARRELS. 

To  produce  damask  in  relief  upon  gun-barrels,  first 
close  with  corks  all  the  openings  of  the  barrel  and 
free  it  from  adhesive  grease.  Next  place  it  in  a  box 
pitched  inside  and  pour  over  it  a  mixture  of  1  qt. 
water  with  1  oz.  hydro-chloric  acid.  Allow  the  barrel 
to  remain  in  this  mixture  for  three  or  four  hours, 
when  it  is  taken  from  the  box,  washed  with  water, 
rubbed  with  tow  dipped  in  tripoli  and  then  thoroughly 
dried.  It  is  next  allowed  to  heat  over  a  coal  fire. 
This  treatment  causes  the  steel  portions'  to  appear  in 
relief,  the  iron  parts  having  been  subject  to  attack 
by  corrosive  solution. 

PROTECTING  IRON  FROM  RUST. 

To  protect  iron  from  rust,  mix  fine,  pulverized  zinc 
with  oil  and  a  dryer.  Apply  with  a  common  brush. 
Two  applications  give  a  fine  steel  gray  color  and  per- 
fect protection. 

PROTECTING  IRON  WORK  FROM  RUSTING. 

One-half  ounce  camphor,  1  pound  of  lard,  and  black 
lead  enough  to  color,  is  said  to  protect  iron  work  from 
rusting. 

PRUSSIATE  OF  SILVER. 

Prussiate  of  silver  is  prepared  by  passing  cyanogen 
gas  through  a  cold  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver. 

PULVERIZING  SOLDER. 

To  pulverize  solder  or  block  tin,  melt  the  metal,  but 
do  not  let  it  get  any  hotter  than  barely  to  liquefy  it; 
pour  it  out  into  an  old  ticking  apron,  gather  up  the 
corners  and  rub  or  knead  it  brisklj"  between  the 
hands,  until  it  is  granulated. 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  141 

PURIFYING  CISTERN  WATER. 

To  purify  water  in  cisterns  and  casks  when  it  has 
become  impure  and  dirty,  for  each  hogshead  of  water 
contained  in  the  cistern  or  cask  sprinkle  into  it  a  ta- 
blespoonful  of  pulverized  alum,  stirring  the  water 
at  the  same  time.  The  impurities  will  be  precipitated 
to  the  bottom  in  a  few  hours  and  the  water  will  be 
found  clean  and  clear. 

PURPLE    OF   CASSIUS. 

Purple  of  Cassius  is  prepared  by  the  dissolution  of 
30  86-100  grains  of  tin  in  boiling  aqua  regia,  the  solu- 
tion being  evaporated  at  a  gentle  heat  until  solid. 
Next  comes  its  dissolution  in  distilled  water,  and 
after  the  addition  of  30  86-100  grains  of  stannous 
chloride  solution  diluted  with  10  quarts  of  water. 

A  solution  of  chloride  of  gold  from  75-100  grains  of 
gold  is  then  stirred  into  the  fluid.  On  adding  1  ounce 
12  drachms  of  ammonia  the  fluid  becomes  turbid  and 
the  fluid  easily  separates  out. 

PUTTY-STOVE. 

For  a  stove  putty  use  Portland  cement.  It  is  not 
quite  as  permanent,  perhaps,  as  a  rust  joint,  but  for 
inexperienced  persons  it  is  very  valuable.  It  is  often 
used  in  putting  iron  pipes  together  and  works  well. 
It  is  safer  in  green  hands  than  lead,  which  has  to  be 
well  caulked  and  may  fail  even  when  well  put  in,  if 
exposed  to  extremes  of  temperature. 

(2)  A  stove  putty  which  is  very  good  and  cheap 
can  be  prepared  as  follows:  To  every  pound  of  min- 
eral brown,  add  one  ounce  of  soapstone,  and  mix  with 
boiled  oil. 

QUEEN'S  METAL. 

Queen's  Metal  is  composed  of 

9-10  parts  Zinc, 
3  5-10  parts  Copper, 
7  1-10  parts  Antimony, 
88  5-10  parts  Tin. 


142  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

RECOVERY     OF     GOLD     AND      SILVER     FROM 
SWEEPINGS,  ETC. 

To  recover  gold  and  silver  from  sweepings  and  other 
refuse,  dry  the  latter  and  heat  them  in  a  Hessian  cru- 
cible. The  glowed  mass  is  then  to  be  triturated  in  an 
enameled  kettle  with  water  and  treated  with  an  ex- 
cess of  hydro-chloric  acid  for  the  dissolution  of  any 
calcium  carbonate  or  alkalies  that  may  be  present. 
The  portion  as  yet  undissolved  will  contain  ferric 
oxide,  clay,  sand,  copper,  gold  and  silver.  The  silver 
is  recovered  from  it  by  washing  thoroughly  with  dis- 
tilled water,  followed  by  boiling  in  pure  nitric  acid, 
which  results  in  the  absorption  of  the  silver  by  the 
acid.  Next  brush  the  residue  and  from  the  combined 
fluids  there  is  a  precipitation  of  silver  and  chloride 
of  silver  by  either  hydro-chloric  acid  or  common  salt, 
preferably  the  former.  The  residue  still  undissolved 
should  be  heated  with  aqua  regia  and  the  precipita- 
tion of  the  gold  will  be  caused  by  the  addition  of 
copperas.  It  may  be  advisable  to  treat  the  undis- 
solved residue  with  ammonia  for  the  extraction  of 
the  chloride  of  silver. 

RECOVERY  OF  NICKEL  FROM  OLD  SOLUTIONS. 

To  recover  nickel  from  old  solutions  take  ammo- 
nium-sulphate in  warm  water,  which  is  to  be  con- 
stantly stirred  into  the  old  nickel-plating  solution. 
After  this  has  been  done  for  a  little  while  the  separa- 
tion of  the  granular  precipitation  of  the  double  sul- 
phate of  nickel  will  commence.  Continue  the  addi- 
tion of  the  ammonium-sulphate  until  the  liquid  is 
colorless. 

RECOVERY   OF  TIN  FROM   SCRAP. 

To  recover  tin  from  tinplate  waste  or  scrap,  treat 
same  with  dilute  chlorine,  hotter  than  chlorine  of  tin, 
at  the  boiling  point,  so  that  the  latter,  directly  upon  its 
formation,  evaporates,  as  if  it  stays  in  the  form  of  a 
fluid  touching  the  residues,  it  effects  the  formation  of 
chlorine  of  iron,  the  reduction  of  tin  taking  place. 
The  fumes  of  chlorine  of  tin  are  precipitated  by 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  143 

steam,  or  by  contact  with  moist  surfaces  in  the  cham- 
bers of  condensation,  or  their  absorption  by  a  me- 
dium concentrated  solution  of  chlorine  of  tin  takes 
place.  Another  way  of  recovering  tin  from  waste  is 
to  bring  same  into  contact  with  sulphur  in  a  boiling 
hot  solution  of  sodiurn-.sulphide,  which  thoroughly 
frees  the  iron  from  tin.  This  waste,  which  has  been 
freed  from  tin,  is  washed  and  dried,  heated  to  a  weld- 
ing heat  in  rolled  iron  tubs,  and  is  then  hammered 
into  rod-iron.  Then  proceed  to  the  evaporation  of 
solution  of  sodium-sulphide,  which  holds  the  tin  and 
calcine  the  residue  in  a  reverberatory  furnace.  After 
this,  reduce  the  calcine  mass  to  tin  at  a  raised  heat 
by  aid  of  a  compound  burned  lime,  charcoal  and  small 
coal. 

REFRACTORY       SOLDER        FOR       ENAMELED 
WORK. 

A  refractory  solder  for  enameled  work  is  made  of 
18  parts  Silver, 
74  parts  Gold. 

REMOVING  ACID  SPOTS  FROM   STEEL. 

The  application  of  rotten  stone  and  oil  will  gener- 
ally remove  acid  spots  from  steel.  It  will  also  re- 
move rust,  and  bath  brick  will  give  the  metal  the  de- 
sired polish.  This  brilliancy  of  steel  may  be  retained 
indefinitely  if,  after  final  polishing,  it  be  washed  in 
hot  suds  and  rinsed  in  clear,  hot  water. 

REMOVING  GREASE  FROM  FILE  TEETH. 

To  remove  oil  or  grease  from  the  teeth  of  a  new  file, 
rub  chalk  or  charcoal  on  the  teeth,  and  clean  with  a 
file  card.  Repeat  the  operation  until  the  oil  or  grease 
is  absorbed  and  removed. 

REMOVING  MINERAL  OIL  OR  WAX  SPOTS. 

For  removing  mineral  oil  or  wax  spots,  which  are 
very  hard  to  eradicate,  especially  when  they  have 
penetrated  deeply  into  the  fibre,  owing  to  ironing  of 
the  said  bodies,  aniline  is  recommended.  This  rem- 


144  MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS. 

edy  is  used  in  the  following  mixture:  Aniline,  1  part; 
soap,  1  part;  water,  19  parts. 

REMOVING  OLD  PUTTY. 

Any  one  who  has  tried  to  remove  old,  dry  putty 
from  a  window  will  agree  that  it  is  far  from  being  a 
pleasant  job.  An  easy  way  to  accomplish  it  is  to  pass 
a  hot  iron,  as  a  soldering  iron,  over  the  putty,  which 
will  soften  it  so  it  may  be  readily  removed  with  a 
knife  or  chisel. 

REMOVING  RUST  FROM  CAST-IRON. 

To  remove  rust  from  cast-iron,  use  the  following: 
To  1  part  sulphuric  acid  add  10  parts  water,  into 
which  dip  the  casting.  When  it  is  withdrawn  it 
should  be  at  once  dipped  into  hot  lime  water,  and 
held  there  untU  it  becomes  so  heated  that  it  will  dry 
immediately  when  taken  out.  Then  rub  with  dry 
bran  or  sawdust,  and  a  clean  surface  is  the  result. 

REMOVING  RUST  FROM  KNIVES. 

To  remove  rust  from  knives  cover  them  with  sweet 
oil,  well  rubbed  on,  and  after  two  days  take  a  lump 
of  fresh  lime  and  rub  till  the  rust  disappears. 

REMOVING  RUST  FROM  NICKEL-PLATE. 

To  remove  rust  stains"  from  nickel-plate  grease  the 
rust  stains  with  oil,  and  after  a  few  days  rub  thor- 
oughly with  a  cloth  moistened  with  ammonia.  If  any 
spots  still  remain,  remove  them  with  dilute  hydro- 
chloric acid  and  polish  with  tripoli. 

REMOVING  RUST  FROM  POLISHED  STEEL. 

To  remove  rust  from  polished  steel  articles,  soak 
the  rusty  places  for  a  few  days  with  oil  and  then 
scour  with  emery  or  tripoli  and  oil,  using  a  stick  of 
hard  wood.  Wipe  off  the  oil  and  all  other  impurities; 
rub  the  stains  once  more  with  emery  and  wine  vine- 
gar, and  finally  polish  with  fine  bloodstone  and 
leather. 


MANUAL    OF   RECEIPTS.  145 

REMOVING   RUST   FROM    STEEL. 

Cover  the  steel  thoroughly  with  sweet  oil  and  let  it 
remain  there  for  about  three  days.  Then  take  some 
unslaked  lime,  finely  powdered,  and  rub  with  it  until 
all  rust  disappears. 

REMOVING  RUST  FROM  STEEL  TOOLS. 

Rust  may  often  be  removed  from  steel  tools  by  im- 
mersing them  in  kerosene  oil  for  a  few  days.  This 
loosens  the  rusit  so  that  it  may  rub  off.  Where  the 
rust  is  not  very  deep-seated  emery  paper  will  do,  but 
if  of  long  standing  the  tools  must  be  refinished. 

REMOVING    RUSTY    BOLTS. 

To  remove  bolts  that  are  rusted  without  breaking 
them,  the  most  effective  remedy  known  is  the  lib- 
eral application  of  petroleum.  Care  must  be  taken 
that  the  rusted  parts  are  reached  by  it,  and  some 
time  must  be  allowed  to  give  it  a  chance  to  soften  the 
layer  of  rust,  before  any  attempts  are  made  to  remove 
the  bolt.  If,  before  the  bolt  has  been  driven,  it  could 
be  dipped  into  a  mixture  of  graphite  grease,  or  graph- 
ite oil,  it  would  never  rust.  Graphite  prepared  in  this 
way,  with  grease  or  oil,  absolutely  prevents  rust. 

REMOVING  STAINS  FROM  IVORY. 

To  remove  stains  from  ivory,  immerse  the  pieces  in 
benzine  and  go  over  them  with  a  brush. 

REMOVING     TARNISH     FROM     GOLD     AFTER 
HARD   SOLDERING. 

The  gold  is  first  protected  by  a  coat  of  yellow  ochre 
paint  and  ground  up  with  water  to  which  a  small 
quantity  of  borax  has  been  added.  After  the  solder- 
ing, put  same  in  a  pickle  composed  of  1  part  sulphuric 
acid  diluted  with  6  parts  of  water.  Should  the  gold, 
on  emerging  from  this  pickle,  look  whitish  and  show 
too  much  of  the  silver  alloy,  it  should  be  plunged  for 
a  moment  in  a  heated  mixture  of  saltpetre  and  sul- 
phuric acid,  to  which  no  water  has  been  added.  It 


146  MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS. 

should  then  be  washed  and  polished  with  rotten  stone 
aid  oil.  Then  comes  a  second  washing  and  polishing 
with  rouge. 

REPAIRING  LEAKY  GUTTERS. 

To  repair  leaky  gutters  while  constantly  filling  with 
water  from  melting  snow  and  ice,  when  you  cannot 
bail  the  water  out  fast  enough  to  enable  you  to  solder 
the  broken  seams:  Make  a  syphon  with  a  J^-inch  rub- 
ber tube  and  start  it  running,  and  in  a  few  minutes 
the  gutter  will  be  clear  of  water  so  the  work  can  be 
done. 

REPAIRING  VALLEYS. 

To  repair  on  old  valley,  cut  off  all  but  iy2  inches  of 
k  and  turn  up  the  remaining  part.  Turn  up  the  new 
valley  2  inches,  turn  over  the  1^  inch  part,  mallet 
down  and  solder.  If  too  rusty  for  that,  turn  the  old 
and  new  up  l1^  inches  and  1^4  inches  respectively,  and 
double  seam. 

REPAIRING  WRINGERS. 

File  shaft  bright  and  rough;  warm  it;  also  warm 
the  roll,  and  when  warm  enough  plug  up  one  end  and 
fill  with  rubber  cement.  Next  apply  cement  to  the 
shaft  with  a  brush,  empty  the  roll  and  adjust  it  to  the 
shaft.  The  shaft  being  warm  the  cement  will  adhere 
to  it;  the  roll  being  warm  becomes  soft  and  elastic. 

REPAIRING  WRINGER  ROLLS. 

First  file  the  shaft  bright,  apply  a  coat  of  varnish 
and  let  it  harden,  then  apply  another  coat,  and,  while 
green,  wind  with  jute  twine.  Apply  two  or  three 
coats  of  thick  rubber  cement,  fasten  shaft  upright  in 
vise,  warm  roll  to  soften  it,  then  give  shaft  a  coat  of 
thin  cement,  and  swab  out  the  roll  with  the  same 
and  slide  quickly  down  to  place,  and  let  stand  twen- 
ty-four hours  before  using.  This  will  make  a  job  that 
will  stick. 

REPLACING  BOILER  BOTTOMS. 

When  a  boiler  is  to  be  "cut  down,"  it  must  be  evi- 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  147 

dent  that  the  first  step  is  to  remove  the  old  bottom. 
The  edge  can  be  knocked  back  and  the  outer  edge  re- 
moved by  cutting  off  the  outer  edge  of  the  burr,  so 
that  by  heating  the  remainder  of  the  double-seam  it 
can  be  taken  off  with  a  pair  of  pliers.  After  this  a 
burr  can  be  turned  on  the  bottom  again;  of  course,  it 
cannot  be  double-seamed  again,  but  must  be  slipped 
on. 

ROBIERRES'  METAL. 

Robierres'  metal  is  a  copper-zinc  alloy  composed  of 
66  parts  Copper, 
34  parts  Zinc. 

ROSEINE. 

Roseine  is  an  alloy  composed  of  40  parts  nickel,  10 
parts  silver,  30  parts  aluminum,  and  20  parts  tin,  for 
jewelers'  work. 

ROSE'S  METAL. 

Rose's  metal  is  composed  of  tin  (1  part),  lead  (1 
part),  bismuth  (2  parts). 

ROSTHORNS'  STERRO-METAL. 

Rosthorns'  sterro-metal  is  a  copper-zinc  alloy  com- 
posed of 

55  33-100  parts  Copper, 
41     8-10    parts  Zinc, 
4  67-100  parts  Iron. 

ROUGE  FOR  POLISHING  METALS. 

.A  rouge  for  polishing  metals  is  obtained  as  follows: 
Sulphate  of  iron  is  to  be  heated  in  an  iron  vessel 
over  a  slow  fire  and  continuously  stirred  with  an  iron 
spatula  until  it  becomes  dry  and  assumes  the  form 
of  a  pale,  greenish-yellow  powder.  Crush  this  pow- 
der in  a  mortar  and  sift  same.  Then  calcine  it  in  a 
new  crucible  and  give  it  an  exposure  to  the  fire  of  a 
smelting  stove,  as  long  as  it  continues  fuming.  As 
soon  as  vapors  cease  arising  from  it  'the  contents  of 
the  crucible  may  be  left  to  cool  and  then  they  will 
look  like  the  rouge  employed  in  the  polishing.  The 


148  MANUAL    OF   RECEIPTS. 

color  of  the  resultant  rouge  may  range  from  pale  red 
to  brown-red,  or  may  be  blue  and  violet.  These  va- 
rieties, however,  are  caused  merely  by  the  different 
degrees  of  heat  employed,  and  it  may  be  laid  down 
as  an  axiom  that  the  higher  the  temperature  during  the 
process  of  manufacture,  the  darker  the  color  of  the 
powder  and  the  harder  it  will  be.  This  is  also  the 
explanation  of  the  reason  why  the  violet  powder  is 
employed  for  steel,  and  the  pale  red  powder  is  only 
used  for  silver  and  gold.  Questions  of  color  aside,  it 
is  vitally  essential  that  the  rouge  be  well  bruised  and 
washed  in  water  before  its  employment.  To  do  this 
you  take  three  glasses  and  fill  one  of  them  with  clear 
water,  in  which  a  little  rouge  is  mixed  by  stirring  it  a 
minute  or  two  with  a  little  piece  of  wood.  After  the 
rouge  has  been  allowed  to  settle  to  the  bottom  of  the 
glass  (the  time  being  about  %  minute)  the  remainder 
of  the  liquid  is  decanted  into  the  second  glass,  but 
every  particle  of  the  deposit  is  to  be  left  in  the  first 
one.  This  identical  process  is  followed  for  the  second 
and  third  glasses,  but  there  is-  this  difference:  The 
powder  in  the  second  glass  is  allowed  to  settle  fully 
two  minutes,  while  the  powder  in  the  third  glass  is 
left  for  two  or  three  hours,  which  is  the  time  required 
for  the  assumption  by  the  water  of  its  natural  clear- 
ness. The  sediment  in  the  first  glass  is  of  no  value'; 
that  in  the  second,  of  medium  quality,  while  that  in 
the  third  is  very  good  and  can  be  very  advantageously 
employed  after  it  has  been  slowly  dried.  In  some 
cases  this  rouge  may  be  mixed  with  grease,  and  as  a 
general  rule  found  quite  advantageous  to  wet  it  with 
spirits  of  wiue  and  burn  it  in  a  clean  iron  vessel. 

ROUGHENING  SHEET-BRASS. 

To  make  sheet-brass  rough  so  you  can  paint  on 
same:  with  oil  paint,  place  it  for  twelve  hours  in  a 
pickle  consisting  of  8  parts  water,  1  part  concen- 
trated hydro-chlorate  acid  and  8  parts  concentrated 
sulphuric  acid.  It  is  next  to  be  rinsed  off  with  water. 
If  it  is  desired  to  hasten  the  moire-like  appearance 
given  by  this  process,  a  compound  of  hydro-chloric 


MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS.  140 

acid  and  potassium  bicarbonate  may  be  used  and  also 
a  galvanic  baittery. 

RUSTED  SCREWS— LOOSENING. 

To  loosen  rusted  screws,  apply  heat  at  the  head  of 
the  screw  and  take  a  small  bar  of  iron,  flat  at  the  end, 
redden  it  in  the  fire  and  apply  for  two  or  three  min- 
utes to  the  head  of  the  rusty  screw.  As  soon  as  the 
screw  is  heated,  this  will  make  it  as  easy  to  take  it 
out  with  a  screwdriver  as  if  it  had  only  recently  been 
inserted. 

RUST— FREEING  POLISHED  STEEL  ARTICLES 
FROM. 

To  remove  rust  from  polished  steel  articles  the  spots 
affected  should  be  soaked  for  several  days  with  oil, 
and  then  scoured  with  tripoli  and  oil,  or  with  emery, 
a  piece  of  hard  wood  being  used  for  this  purpose. 
The  oil  and  all  other  impurities  are  then  to  be  wiped 
off.  The  stains  are  to  to  be  rubbed  a  second  time  with 
emery  and  wine  vinegar  and  then  polished  with  fine 
bloodstone  and  leather. 

RUST— INGRAINED  REMOVAL  OF  IRON  FROM. 

To  thoroughly  clean  iron  from  rust,  first  immerse 
it  in  deeply  saturated  solution  of  chloride  of  tin.  The 
length  of  said  bath  should  be  dependent  on  the  thick- 
ness of  the  film  of  rust.  As  a  general  rule,  however, 
from  twelve  to  twenty-four  hours  will  be  amply  suffi- 
cient. Care  should  be  taken  that  this  solution  of  the 
chloride  of  tin  should  not  contain  too  heavy  an  assid- 
uous excess,  otherwise  the  iron  itself  will  be  attacked. 
After  the  removal  of  the  articles  from  the  bath  they 
should  first  be  washed  in  water  followed  by  a  second 
washing  with  ammonia,  and  then  dried  as  rapidly  as 
possible.  Articles  thus  treated  primarily  assume  the 
appearance  of  dead  silver,  but  regain  their  natural 
appearance  by  simply  polishing. 

RUSTING-TO  PREVENT  METALS  FROM. 
A  good  compound  to  prevent  metals  from  rusting  is 


150  MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS. 

made  by  melting  1  ounce  of  resin  in  a  gill  of  linseed 
oil  and  mixing  it  with  2  quarts  of  kerosene  oil  while 
warm. 

RUSTING— TO  PREVENT  STEEL  FROM. 

To  prevent  steel  from  rusting,  brush  it  with  a  solu- 
tion of  paraffine  and  benzine. 

RUST-TO    EXTRACT    FROM    NICKEL-PLATED 
ARTICLES. 

To  free  nickel-plated  articles  from  rust,  grease  the 
rust  stain,  and  a  few  days  thereafter  rub  them  thor- 
oughly with  a  cloth  wet  with  ammonia.  The  dissolu- 
tion of  the  rust  is  effected  by  the  ammonia  without 
harm  to  the  plating.  If  this  method  does  not  work 
satisfactorily,  the  stains  may  be  touched  with  diluted 
hydro-chloric  acid  and  vigorously  rubbed.  They 
should  then  be  washed,  and  on  becoming  dry  polish 
with  tripoli  or  some  similar  polishing  material. 

RUST-TO  EXTRACT  FROM  STEEL. 

To  extract  rust  from  steel,  plunge  the  article  to  be 
cleaned  in  a  strong  solution  of  cyanide  of  potassium 
consisting  of  %  ounce  in  a  wineglass  of  water,  for  a 
few  minutes,  and  then  take  it  out  and  clean  with  a 
small  brush,  such  as  a  toothbrush,  dipped  into  a  com- 
position of  castile  soap,  cyanide  of  potassium,  whiting 
and  water  made  into  a  paste  of  about  the  thickness 
of  ordinary  cream. 

SCHWEINFURT  GREEN. 

Schweinfurt  green  is  made  by  boiling  a  mixture  of 
10    6-10    parts  Acetic  Acid, 
31  26-100  parts  Cupric  Oxide, 
58  65-100  parts  Arsenious  Acid. 

It  is  very  poisonous. 

SCOURING  CAST-IRON,  ZINC  OR  BRASS. 

To  scour  cast-iron,  zinc  or  brass  surfaces  with  great 
economy  of  labor,  time  and  matei'ial,  by  using  either 


MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS.  151 

glycerine,  stearine,  naphtha,  lime  or  creosote  mixed 
with  diluted  sulphuric  acid. 

SCRATCH-BRUSHING. 

To  brighten  articles  in  relief,  scratch-brushes  are 
used  oftener  than  store  or  steel  burnishers.  A  com- 
mon scratch-brush  is  constructed  of  a  large  number 
of  hardened  brass  wires  selected  from  a  coil  of  large 
diameter,  so  tha.t  there  will  be  little  tendency  of  the 
wires,  when  in  place,  toward  curvature.  For  the 
manufacture  of  a  good  scratch-brush  select  a  coil  of 
brass  wire  of  the  right  fineness  and  bind  tightly  with 
strong  twine  of  about  2-3  the  desired  length  of  the 
brush,  say  6  or  7  inches.  Cut  the  bundle  of  wire 
close  to  the  cord  at  one  end,  and  about  2  inches  from 
the  other,  with  a  chisel.  The  close  cut  end  is  to  be 
dipped  into  a  neutral  solution  of  chloride  of  zinc  and 
plunged  into  molten  tin,  which  solders  all  the  wires 
and  guards  against  their  separation.  This,  too,  Is 
preferably  fixed  by  means  of  another  string  to  a  thin 
wooden  handle  projecting  above  -the  soldered  end. 

SCREWS— TO  PREVENT  FROM  RUSTING. 

To  prevent  screws  from  rusting  in  machines  and 
other  metal  work  subject  to  exposure  to  moist  air  or 
heat,  dip  them  before  use  in  a  thin  paste  consisting  of 
oil  of  graphite. 

SEPARATION     OF     GOLD     FROM     GILDED 
ARTICLES. 

To  separate  gold  from  gilded  metallic  articles,  dip 
them  in  a  concentrated  solution  of  sal-ammoniac  in 
vinegar  which  has  been  heated  to  a  dark  red  heat. 
Then  immerse  them  in  dilute  sulphuric  acid,  which 
will  cause  the  gold  to  separate  in  thin  scales.  If  it  is 
desired  to  obtain  the  gold  in  a  coherent  form,  fuse  the 
scales  with  saltpeter  and  borax. 

SEPARATION   OF  LEAD   FROM  ZINC. 

Yon  will  have  great  difficulty  in  separating  lead 
from  zinc.  If  you  have  the  necessary  appliances  for 


152  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

heating  the  mass  sufficiently  the  zinc  will  partially 
evaporate  and  leave  the  lead  on  being  treated.  If  the 
whole  is  granulated  the  zinc  could  be  dissolved  by 
acids.  Zinc  being  of  lighter  specific  gravity  than  lead 
it  will  float  on  the  latter  when  properly  heated,  and  to 
a  certain  extent  can  be  skimmed  off.  You  will  find  all 
these  processes  troublesome,  and  in  the  end  not  en- 
tirely satisfactory. 

SEPARATION    OF    ZINC    FROM    LEAD. 

To  separate  zinc  from  lead,  melt  the  alloy  and  the 
heavier  lead  will  collect  in  the  lower  part  of  the 
crucible  with  the  lighter  zinc  from  above.  The  latter 
can  then  be  easily  poured  off. 

SEPIA    BROWN    FOR    TIN. 

In  order  to  give  tin  a  sepia-bronze  appearance, 
brush  the  article  with  the  following  solution,  viz.,  1 
part  of  platinum  chloride  in  10  parts  of  water.  The 
coating  should  be  allowed  to  dry,  then  rinsed  in  water, 
again  allowed  to  dry  and  then  brushed  with  a  soft 
brush  until  the  requisite  luster  makes  its  appearance. 

SHARPENING   FILES. 

To  sharpen  files,  a  metal  sheet  covered  with  a  thin 
layer  of  charcoal  is  fastened  upon  the  file,  protecting 
the  edges.  This  combination  is  laid  into  a  solution 
of  six  parts  of  nitric  acid  and  three  parts  of  sulphuric- 
acid  in  a  hundred  parts  of  water.  The  acid  eats  away 
all  the  inner  parts  of  the  file,  leaving  the  protected 
edges  unchanged,  which  are  then  sharpened  for  use. 

SILVER    CARBONATE. 

Silver  carbonate  is  a  precipitation  formed  by  bring- 
ing together  solutions  of  nitrate  of  silver  and  potash. 

SILVER— HORN. 

Horn  silver  is  obtained  by  the  addition  of  hydro- 
chloric acid  to  a  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver. 


MANUAL   OP  RECEIPTS.  153 

SILVERING   BRONZE. 

To  give  a  silver  color  to  bronze  proceed  to  the  disso- 
lution, in  a  vessel  that  is  well  glazed,  of 

V/2  drachms  Tartar  Emetic. 

iy2  ounces     Pulverized  Cream  of  Tartar, 
in 

1  quart  Hot  Water, 
and  add  to  this  solution 

1     ounce    Pulverized  Antimony, 

1%  ounces  Hydro-chloric  Acid. 

The  articles  to  be  coated  are  immersed  in  this  solution, 
which  is  to  be  heated  to  the  boiling  point  and  allowed 
to  boil  for  from  15  to  30  minutes;  at  the  end  of  this 
time  they  will  be  given  a  beautiful,  lustrous  coating. 

SILVERING   CAST    IRON. 

A  bath  prepared  by  dissolving  sya  drachms  nitrate 
of  silver  in  7  ounces  of  water  and  adding  7  drachms  of 
cyanide  of  potassium  may  be  used  for  this  purpose. 
This  solution  is  to  be  poured  into  21  ounces  of  water, 
wherein  3y2  drachms  of  common  salt  have  been  pre- 
viously dissolved.  The  cat-iron  intended  to  be  sil- 
vered by  the  solution  should,  after  having  been 
cleaned,  be  placed  for  a  few  minutes  in  a  bath  of  di- 
lute nitric  acid  just  previous  to  being  placed  in  the 
silvering  fluid. 

SILVERING    CAST    ZINC. 

The  dark  colors  in  silvered  cast  zinc  articles  are  ob- 
tained by  coating  same  with  a  solution  of  liver  of 
sulphur,  and  also  by  rubbing  with  graphite. 

SILVERING    IRON. 

To  silver  iron,  first  cover  the  iron  with  mercury, 
and  silver  by  the  galvanic  process.  By  heating  300 
degrees  C.,  the  mercury  evaporates  and  the  silver 
layer  is  fixed.  Ironware  is  first  heated  with  diluted 
hydrochloric  acid,  and  then  dipped  in  a  solution  of 
nitrate  of  mercury,  being  at  the  same  time  in  commu- 
nication with  the  zinc  pole  of  an  electric  battery,  a 


154  MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS. 

piece  of  gas  carbon  or  platinum  being  used  as  an 
anode  for  the  other  pole.  The  metal  is  soon  covered 
with  a  layer  of  quicksilver:  is  then  taken  out  and  well 
washed  and  silvered  in  a,  silver  solution.  To  save 
silver,  the  ware  can  first  be  covered  with  a  layer  of 
tin;  one  part  of  cream  of  tartar  is  dissolved  in  eight 
parts  of  boiling  water,  and  one  or  more  tin  anodes 
are  joined  with  the  carbon  pole  of  a  Bunsen  element. 
The  zinc  pole  communicates  with  a  well-cleaned  piece 
of  copper,  and  the  battery  is  made  to  act  till  enough 
tin  is  deposited  on  the  copper,  when  this  is  taken  out 
and  the  ironware  put  in  its  place.  The  ware  thus 
covered  with  tin  chemically  pure  and  silvered  is  much 
cheaper  than  any  other  silvered  metals. 

SILVERING  MIRRORS. 

In  making  mirrors,  mercury  or  quicksilver  is  poured 
over  tin  foil  and  the  glass  (absolutely  clean)  carefully 
slid  upon  it  so  as  to  exclude  the  air,  when  weights 
are  placed  upon  it  and  allowed  to  remain  several 
hours.  The  mercury  and  tin  foil  combine  and  adhere 
to  the  glass. 

(2)  The  glass  is  first  silvered  by  means  of  tartaric 
acid  and  ammoniacal  nitrate  of  silver,  and  then  ex- 
posed to  the  action  of  a  weak  solution  of  double 
cyanide  of  mercury  and  potassium.  When  the  mer- 
curial solution  has  spread  uniformly  over  the  surface, 
fine  zinc  dust  is  powdered  over  it,  which  promptly 
reduces  the  quicksilver,  and  permits  it  to  form  a  white 
and  brilliant  amalgam,  adhering  strongly  to  the  glass, 
and  which  is  free  from  the  yellowish  tint  of  ordinary 
silvered  glass,  and  not  easily  affected  by  sulphurous 
emanations. 

SILVERING  LIGHT-TEST  FOR. 

To  determine  whether  silvering  on  an  article  is  light 
or  heavy,  clean  same  with  either  ether  or  alcohol  and 
apply  to  it  a  drop  of  1  5-10  per  cent,  solution  of  bi- 
sulphate  of  soda.  Allow  the  drop  to  act  for  ten 
minutes  and  rinse  it  off  with  water.  If  the  article 
is  deeply  silvered  a  full  round  steel-gray  spot  is  pro- 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  155 

duced.  Other  white  metals,  barring  amalgamated 
copper,  do  not  show  this,  but,  instead,  a  ring  at  the 
edge  of  the  drop. 

SILVERING    SOLUTION— NON-POISONOUS. 

Take  nitrate  silver  2  drachms,  distilled  water  4^ 
ounces.  Dissolve,  and  add  sal-ammoniac,  hyposul- 
phite soda  and  precipitated  chalk  each  4  drachms. 
Mix. 

All  surfaces  to  be  plated  must  be  thoroughly 
cleansed  and  polished  before  applying  the  solution. 

SILVER    INK. 

A  silver  ink  may  be  made  by  rubbing  up  silver 
bronze  with  honey  and  water. 

SILVER  LIQUID— TEST  FOR. 

To  determine  whether  an  article  is  silver  or  sil- 
vered apply  the  following  test:  viz.,  a  fluid  consisting 
of  16  parts  chromic  acid  and  32  parts  of  distilled 
water.  The  surface  of  the  article  to  be  tested  is  to  be 
filed,  and  the  filed  place  put  on  the  touch-stone  and 
the  test  water  applied.  If  genuine  silver,  the  touch- 
stone becomes  blood  red.  The  deeper  the  coloration, 
the  finer  the  quality  of  the  silver.  If  the  article  be 
not  genuine  silver,  but  silvered,  German  silver,  tin 
compositions,  etc.,  the  touch  is  not  decomposed  by  the 
test  water,  but  cast  out  in  its  original  color,  or,  per- 
haps, in  extreme  cases,  wifh  a  dull  gray  tint. 

SILVEROID.  \ 

This  alloy  is  very  white  and  fine-grained,  and  has 
great  tenacity.  It  is  used  in  place  of  brass  or  gun 
metal  where  a  superior  polish  is  required  and  is  com- 
posed of  copper  and  nickel,  to  which,  according  to 
the  different  purposes  for  which  it  is  desired,  zinc, 
lead  and  tin  are  added. 

SILVER   SULPHATE. 

Silver  sulphate  is  made  by  the  action  of  hot,  con- 
centrated sulphuric  acid  on  silver. 


156  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

SILVER  SULPHIDE. 

Silver  sulphide  is  made  by  the  fusion  of  silver  with 
sulphur. 

SIMILOR. 

Similor  is  a  copper-zinc  alloy  composed  of 
89  44-100  parts  Copper, 
9  93-100  parts  Zinc, 
62-100  parts  Tin. 

SOAP  FOR  METAL  WORK. 

A  soap  for  metal  work  is  as  follows:  The  basis  is 
cocoanut  oil.  Its  ingredients  are  cocoanut  oil,  2.5 
kilos;  chalk,  180  grins.;  and  alum,  cream  of  tartar  and 
white  lead,  of  each  87.5  grms.  The  oil  is  melted  in  an 
iron  vessel  containing  a  little  water,  and  the  other 
ingredients  are  added  in  the  order  named,  while  con- 
stantly stirring  the  mixture.  The  mixture  is  then 
decanted  into  molds,  wherein  it  solidifies.  In  use  it  is 
made  into  a  paste  with  water  and  applied  either  by 
cot/ton  waste  or  a  rag.  It  is  said  this  preparation 
never  spoils  in  keeping. 

SOFTENING  CAST-IRON. 

To  soften  cast-iron,  steep  in  1  part  of  aqua  fortis  to 
4  parts  of  water,  and  let  it  remain  in  twenty-four 
hours. 

SOFTENING  RUBBER. 

To  soften  rubber:  If  the  rubber  is  unvulcanized, 
naphtha,  bisulphide  of  carbon,  and  a  variety  of  solv- 
ents may  be  employed,  or  slight  heating  will  make  a 
soft  dough  of  it.  If  the  rubber  be  vulcanized  soft 
(like  the  rubber  parts  of  boots  and  shoes),  it  cannot 
be  softened  without  injury  to  it.  Animal  oils  will  do 
the  softening  in  this  case,  but  destroy  the  rubber  in- 
stantly. If  the  rubber  be  hard  (like  penholders,  but- 
tons, etc.),  it  may  be  softened  by  heat  and  its  shape 
changed  by  pressing.  Rubber  may  be  melted,  but  in 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  157 

every  case  it  is  ruined  by  such  treatment,  the  result 
being  a  tar-like  fluid  that  never  again  regains  its 
original  condition. 

SOFTENING  SOLDERING  COPPERS. 

To  soften  soldering  coppers  that  have  been  hard- 
ened by  use,  heat  the  soldering  coppers  red-hot  or  to  a 
cherry  heat,  then  plunge  them  into  cold  water. 

SOFTENING   STEEL. 

For  softening  steel  so  that  it  can  be  engraved  and 
otherwise  worked  similarly  to  copper,  pulverize  beef 
bones  and  mix  them  with  equal  parts  of  calves'  hair 
and  loam  and  stir  the  mixture  into  a  thick  paste  with 
water.  A  coat  of  this  is  applied  'to  the  steel  and 
placed  in  a  crucible.  This  is  covered  with  another; 
the  two  are  fastened  with  wire  together,  and  the  joint 
is  closed  hermetically  with  clay.  The  crucible  is  then 
placed  in  the  fire  and  heated  slowly.  When  through 
heating,  it  is  cooled  by  being  placed  in  the  ashes. 

SOLDER. 

A  soft  alloy,  which  adheres  so  firmly  to  metallic, 
glass  and  porcelain  surfaces  that  it  can  be  used  as 
solder,  and  which  is  invaluable  when  the  articles  to 
be  soldered  are  of  such  a  nature  that  they  cannot 
bear  a  high  degree  of  temperature,  consists  of  finely 
pulverized  copper  dust,  which  is  obtained  by  shaking 
a  solution  of  the  sulphate  of  copper  with  granulated 
zinc.  The  temperature  of  the  solution  rises  consid- 
erably and  the  metallic  copper  is  precipitated  in  the 
form  of  a  brownish  powder;  20,  30  or  3G  parts  of  this 
copper  dust,  according  to  the  hardness  desired,  are 
placed  in  a  cast-iron  or  porcelain-lined  mortar  and 
well  mixed  with  some  sulphuric  acid  having  a  spe- 
cific gravity  of  185.  Add  to  the  paste  thus  formed  70 
parts  (by  weight)  of  mercury,  constantly  stirring. 
When  thoroughly  mixed  the  amalgam  must  be  rinsed 
in  warm  water  to  remove  the  acid,  and  then  set  aside 
to  cool.  In  ten  or  twelve  hours  it  will  be  hard  enough 
to  scratch  tin,  When  it  is  to  be  used  it  should  be 


158  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

heated  to  a  temperature  of  375  degrees  C.,  when  it 
becomes  as  soft  as  wax  by  kneading  in  an  iron  mortar. 
In  this  ductile  state  it  can  be  spread  upon  any  surface, 
to  which,  as  it  cools  and  hardens,  it  adheres  very 
tenaciously. 

(2)  A  solder  for  various  metals,  particularly  alumi- 
num, consists  in  combining  cadmium,  zinc  and  tin  mix- 
ed in  substantially  the  following  proportions:  Cad- 
mium, 50  per  cent.;  zinc,  20  per  cent.;  tin,  the  remain- 
der. The  zinc  is  first  melted  in  any  suitable  vessel, 
when  the  cadmium  is  added,  and  then  the  tin  in  pieces. 
The  mass  must  be  well  heated,  stirred,  and  then 
poured. 

SOLDER-ACIDS   FOR. 

To  solder  galvanized  iron,  also  to  solder  tin  to  any 
iron:  Muriatic  acid  reduced  with  zinc  is  used  in 
soldering  iron  and  tin,  but  it  should  be  wiped  off  at 
once.  It  is  used  raw  or  unreduced  in  soldering  gal- 
vanized iron. 

SOLDER-ARGENTAN. 

An  Argentan  solder,  which  is  readily  adapted  for 
use  in  iron  and  steel  is  composed  of 
12  parts  Nickel, 
38  parts  Copper, 
50  parts  Zinc. 

Another  Argentan  solder  which  fuses  readily  is  com- 
posed of 

8  parts  Nickel, 
35  parts  Copper, 
57  parts  Zinc. 

SOLDER— BISMUTH. 

Bismuth  solder  is  composed  of  the  following: 

(1)  Lead,  4  parts;  tin,  4  parts;  bismuth.  1  part. 

(2)  Lead,  3  parts;  tin,  3  parts;  bismuth,  1  part. 

(3)  Lead,  2  parts;  tin,  2  parts;  bismuth.  1  part. 

(4)  Lead,  2  parts;  tin,  1  part;  bismuth,  2  parts. 

(5)  Lead,  3  parts;  tin,  5  parts;  bismuth,  3  parts. 

(6)  Bismuth  solder  is  made  of  1  part  lead  and  1 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  150 

part  tin  and  1  part  bismuth,  which  melts  at  284  de- 
grees Fahrenheit. 

SOLDER    FOR    ALUMINUM. 

For  sheet  aluminum  an  iron  tin  solder  may  be  used 
with  a  flux  composed  of  resin,  neutral  chloride  of 
zinc,  and  grease.  The  metal  should  not  be  cleaned  or 
scraped  unless  it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  do  so,  in 
which  case  alcohol  or  essence  of  turpentine  should  be 
used  for  the  purpose.  For  5  per  cent,  aluminum 
bronze  tin  solder  may  be  employed,  but  this  is  not 
possible  with  the  10  per  cent,  alloy,  in  which  case  the 
company  recommends  a  preliminary  copper  plating. 
If  it  is  difficult  to  dip  the  ends  to  be  plated  directly 
into  the  solution  pieces  of  blotting  paper  soaked  in  a 
solution  of  CuSOi  may  be  laid  on  them  and  a  current 
passed.  The  flux  mentioned  above  may  be  used. 

Another  solder  which  is  recommended  is  one  con- 
sisting of:  Copper,  56  parts;  zinc,  46  parts,  and  tin,  2 
parts,  applied  with  borax.  In  a  test  plates  of  alumi- 
num soldered  together,  edge  to  edge,  with  these  solu- 
bles required  a  tractive  effort  of  16^  to  18  tons  per 
square  inch  to  pull  them  asunder:  if  the  edges  over- 
lapped, 22*4  tons  per  square  inch  were  required. 
Pieces  of  cast  aluminum  bronze,  if  placed  in  sand 
molds,  can  be  joined  together  autogenously  by  run- 
ning in  some  of  the  molten  metal.  If  this  operation 
is  properly  carried  out  the  joint  is  indistinguishable 
from  the  rest  of  the  casting.  Thin  cylinders  of  alum- 
inum are  made  in  this  way  by  bending  the  sheets 
round  end  to  end,  and  soldering  with  molten  alum- 
inum. 

A  solder  for  aluminum  consists  in  combining  cad- 
mium, zinc  and  tin  mixed  in  substantially  the  follow- 
ing proportions:  Cadmium,  50  parts;  zinc,  20  parts; 
tin,  the  remainder.  The  zinc  is  first  melted  in  any 
suitable  vessel,  when  the  cadmium  is  added  and  then 
the  tin  in  pieces.  The  mass  must  be  well  heated, 
stirred,  and  then  poured.  The  soldering  metal  can  be 
used  for  a  variety  of  different  metals,  but  is  specially 
adapted  to  aluminum. 


100  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

SOLDER  FOR  BRITANNIA  METAL. 

For  Britannia  metal  a  solder  is  used  consisting  of 
1  part  lead  and  2  parts  tin.  with  resin  or  chloride  of 
zinc  as  a  flux.  The  proportion  of  soft  solder  is  made 
by  first  melting  the  tin  in  either  a  porcelain  or  stone 
vessel.  After  it  has  been  melted  the  lead  is  added  in 
small  proportions  and  the  combination  of  the  two 
metals  is  effected  by  stirring  with  a  stick  of  wood. 
The  alloy  is  then  to  be  poured  into  molds,  one  of  the 
best  shapes  being  7%  inches  long  and  iy2  inches  high 
and  ys  to  ^4  inch  thick. 

(2)  A  solder  for  Britannia  metal  is  composed  as 
follows:  Tin,  8  parts;  lead,  4  parts;  bismuth,  1  part. 
Melt  at  a  moderate  heat  and  run  into  bars. 

SOLDER    FOR   ALUMINUM. 
The  composition  of  solders  for  aluminum  that  are 
generally  used  is  as  follows: 

(1)  80  parts  Zinc. 

12  parts  Aluminum, 

8  parts  Copper. 

(2)  88  parts  Zinc. 

7  parts  Aluminum, 

5  parts  Copper. 

(3)  94  parts  Zinc, 

4  parts  Aluminum. 
2  parts  Copper. 

(4)  90  parts  Zinc. 

6  parts  Aluminum, 
4  parts  Copper. 

(5)  85  parts  Zinc, 

9  parts  Aluminum, 
6  parts  Copper, 

First  prepare  an  aluminum  copper  alloy  which  is  to 
be  mixed  with  the  requisite  amount  of  zinc.  Melt 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  161 

the  copper  and  then  gradually  introduce  into  same  the 
aluminum,  divided  into  3  or  4  portions;  make  a  per- 
fect mixture  by  stirring.  After  the  last  of  the  alu- 
minum has  been  put  in,  throw  in  the  zinc  and  with 
it  some  fat  or  resin,  then  stir  the  mass  rapidly  and 
directly  remove  the  crucible  from  the  fire  and  pour 
the  alloy  into  iron  molds,  which  have  been  rubbed 
with  benzine  or  cold  tar  oil. 

SOLDER    FOR    ALUMINUM. 

A  good  aluminum  solder  is  made  of  zinc,  aluminum 
and  copper,  in  the  proportion  of  90,  6  and  4. 

SOLDER  FOR  ALUMINUM  BRONZE  JEWELRY. 

A  solder  for  aluminum  bronze  jewelry  is  composed 
of 

18          per  cent.  Copper, 
27  6-10  per  cent.  Silver, 
50  4-10  per  cent.  Gold. 
(2)    A  second  solution  is  composed  of 

6  44-100  per  cent.  Copper, 
4  68-100  per  cent.  Silver, 
88  88-100  per  cent.  Gold. 

SOLDER    FOR    GERMAN    SILVER. 

A  solder  for  German  silver  is  composed  of  the  fol- 
lowing: German  silver,  5  parts;  pure  zinc,  4  parts. 
German  silver  used  is  made  of:  Copper,  8  parts; 
nickel,  2  parts,  and  zinc,  3.5  parts. 

SOLDER   FOR   GLASS. 

To  make  a  good  solder  for  glass  make  an  alloy  of 
95  per  cent,  tin  and  5  per  cent.  zinc. 

SOLDER    FOR   GOLD. 

The  best  solder  for  uniting  gold  is  made  by  melting 
66.G  parts  gold  with  16.7  copper,  and  16.7  silver.  This 
alloy  is  a  firm  and  easily  working  solder,  though  a 
very  good  solder  for  gold  for  general  purposes  is  made 


162  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

by  adding  to  100  parts  gold,  40  of  silver,  and  30  of 
copper. 

SOLDER    FOR    HARD    BRASS. 

A  solder  for  hard  brass  is  composed  of  the  follow- 
ing: Scraps  of  metal  to  be  soldered,  4  parts;  zinc,  1 
part. 

SOLDER  FOR  IRON  AND  STEEL  INSTRUMENTS. 

For  the  finer  kinds  of  iron  and  steel  instruments 
gold  is  an  excellent  solder,  as  it  possesses  the  power 
of  dissolving  iron  in  a  degree  of  heat  far  less  than  is 
required  for  melting  iron.  Therefore,  if  a  small  plate 
of  gold  is  wrapped  round  the  parts  to  be  joined,  and 
then  melted  with  the  blow-pipe,  it  strongly  unites  the 
parts  together  without  any  injury  whatever  to  the 
instrument,  however  delicate. 

SOLDER    FOR   NICKEL. 

The  following  has  proved  a  good  formula  for  mak- 
ing solder  for  nickel:  For  fine  or  high-grade  nickel. 

3  parts  yellow  brass,  1  part  coin  silver.     For  low- 
grade  nickel,  15  parts  yellow  brass,  5  parts  coin  silver, 

4  parts  zinc  (pure  or  plate  zinc).     Melt  the  brass  and 
copper  with  borax  for  a  flux,  and  add  the  zinc  in 
small  pieces,  stir  with  an  iron  rod,  pour  in  a  slab 
mold,  and  cool  slowly,  when  it  can  be  rolled  thin  for 
cutting. 

SOLDER    FOR    SILVER. 

Among  the  common  hard  silver  solders  for  first 
soldering  are  those  made  in  the  following  proportions: 

(1)  10  parts  Brass, 

5  parts  Zinc, 

1  part     Copper, 

19  parts  Fine  Silver. 

(2)  3  parts  Brass, 

4  parts  Fine  Silver. 

(3)  1  part     Brass, 

2  parts  Pine  Silver. 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  163 

(4)  16  6-10  parts  Zinc, 
33  4-10  parts  Copper, 

50  parts  Fine  Silver. 

(5)  11  parts  Zinc, 
25  7-10  parts  Copper, 

66  3-10  parts  Fine  Silver. 

(6)  10  parts  Zinc, 
23  3-10  parts  Copper, 

66  7-10  parts  Fine  Silver. 

(7)  35  parts  Zinc, 
157           parts  Brass, 

9  parts  Fine  Silver. 

(8)  18          parts  Zinc, 
76  parts  Brass, 

6  parts  Fine  Silver. 

(9)  1  part    Zinc, 
4           parts  Brass, 

11  parts  Fine  Silver. 

(10)       1  part    Zinc, 

15  parts  Brass, 

16  parts  Fine  Silver. 

A  softer  hard  silver  solder  for  after-soldering  is  va- 
riously composed  as  follows: 

(1)  2    6-10  parts  Copper, 
1  part    Zinc, 

3    5-10  parts  Medium-grade  Silver. 

(2)  4    5-10  parts  Copper, 
3    5-10  parts  Zinc, 

10    5-10  parts  Medium-fine  Silver. 

(3)  3    3-10  parts  Tin, 

32    3-16  parts  Copper, 

1G    1-10  parts  Zinc, 

48    3-10  parts  Medium-grade  Silver. 

(4)  1  part     Zinc, 

7  parts  Medium-grade  Silver. 


164  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

(5)  1  part    Zinc, 

16  parts  Medium-grade  Silver. 

(6)  24     4-10  parts  Copper, 
10    5-10  parts  Zinc, 

67  1-10  parts  Medium-grade  Silver. 

(7)  3  parts  Copper, 

1  part    Zinc, 

2  parts  Medium-grade  Silver. 

(8)  2    3-10  parts  Copper, 
8    2-10  parts  Zinc, 

68  8-10  parts  Medium-grade  Silver. 

SOLDER  FOR  TIN  PANS. 

For  tin  pipes  a  solder  is  used  consisting  of  1  part  of 
lead  and  2  parts  of  tin,  which  has  been  used  for  a  com- 
pound of  sweet  oil  and  resin  as  a  flux. 

SOLDER  FOR  UNITING  BRASS  TUBE  SEAMS. 

A  solder  for  uniting  brass  tube  seams  is  composed 
of  the  following:  Brass,  77.5  parts;  zinc,  22.5.  The 
brass  is  made  as  follows:  Copper,  70  parts;  tin,  30 
parts. 

SOLDER  FOR  ZINC  CASTINGS. 

A  good  solder  for  uniting  zinc  castings,  according  to 
Averman,  is  composed  of  2  parts  of  tin  and  1  of  zinc. 
The  surfaces  to  be  united  are  freed  from  oxide  pre- 
paratory to  using  the  solder,  by  the  application  of 
either  muriatic  acid  or  chloi'ide  of  zinc. 

SOLDER-GOLD. 

Gold  solder  is  composed  of:  Gold,  12  parts;  silver,  2 
parts;  copper,  4  parts. 

SOLDER— HARD,  FOR  COPPER,  BRASS  &.ND 
IRON. 

(1)  Hard  solder  for  copper,  brass  and  iron,  is  com- 
posed of  the  following:  Copper,  2  parts;  zinc,  1  part. 


MANUAL    OF   RECEIPTS.  1G5 

(2)  Good  tough  brass,  5  parts;  zinc,  1  part. 

C5i  More  fusible  than  1  or  2:  Copper,  1  part;  zinc,  1 
part. 

(4)  Good  tough  plate  brass. 

SOLDER— HARD,  FOR  GOLD. 

Hard  solder  for  gold  is  composed  of  the  following: 
Gold  (18  karats,  or  750-1000),  18  parts;  silver,  10  parts; 
pure  copper,  10  parts. 

SOLDER— HARD,   FOR  IRON. 

A  hard  solder  for  iron  is  composed  of  the  following: 
Copper,  07  parts;  zinc,  33  parts. 

•SOLDER-HARD,  FOR  PURE  COPPER  OR  ORDI- 
NARY BRASS, 

A  hard  solder  for  pure  copper  or  ordinary  brass  is 
composed  of  the  following:  Copper,  3  parts;  zinc,  1 
part. 

SOLDER— HARD,  FOR  SILVER. 

A  hard  solder  for  silver  is  composed  of  the  follow- 
ing: Silver,  60  parts;  copper,  23  parts;  zinc,  10  parts. 

SOLDER— HARD,      FOR      SMALL      AND      THIN 
PIECES. 

A  hard  solder  for  small  and  thin  pieces  is  composed 
of  the  following:  Copper,  86.5  parts;  zinc,  4.5  parts. 

SOLDERING  ALUMINUM  BRONZE. 

For  soldering  aluminum  bronze  with  common  soft 
solder,  first  thoroughly  clean  the  pieces  of  bronze  from 
dirt  and  grease  and  then  put  them  in  a  strong  solu- 
tion of  sulplate  of  copper  and  a  rod  of  soft  iron  touch- 
ing the  parts  to  be  joined  is  to  be  put  in  the  bath. 
Shortly  a  copper-like  surface  will  appear  on  the  metal. 
The  pieces  of  aluminum  bronze  are  then  to  be  re- 
moved from  the  bath,  rinsed,  cleaned  and  the  sur- 
faces brightened.  The  surfaces  can  next  be  tinged 
by  the  use  of  a  fluid  made  by  the  dissolution  of  zinc  in 
hydro-chloric  acid. 


166  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

HULOT'S  SOLDER  FOR  ALUMINUM  BRONZE. 

Hulot's  solder  for  aluminum  bronze  is  made  by 
compounding  solder  made  of  50  per  cent,  tin  with  12^ 
per  cent.,  20  per  cent,  or  50  per  cent,  of  zinc  amalgam. 

SOLDERING  ALUMINUM  WITH  A  BLOW-PIPE. 

To  solder  aluminum  with  a  blow-pipe,  use  a  com- 
pound consisting  of 

10  parts  Copper, 
20  parts  Aluminum, 
60  parts  Tin, 
10  parts-  Silver, 
30  parts  Zinc. 

SOLDERING  ALUMINUM  WITH  A  SOLDERING- 
IRON. 

To  solder  aluminum  with  a  soldering-iron  use  a 
flux  consisting  of 

97  parts  Tin, 
3  parts  Bismuth, 

or 
95  parts  Tin, 

5  parts  Bismuth. 

The  flux  to  be  employed  can  be  either  stearin,  vase- 
line or  parafflne.  Care  should  be  taken  that  the  ar- 
ticles are  thoroughly  cleaned  before  they  are  soldered, 
and  they  should  be  heated  just  sufficiently  to  make 
the  adherence  of  the  solder  certain. 

SOLDERING-AUTOGENOUS. 

Autogenous  soldering  is  accomplished  by  the  fusion 
of  the  edges  of  the  two  metallic  articles  without  the 
employment  of  another  metallic  alloy  as  a  band  of 
union.  This  is  done  by  the  direction  of  a  jet  of  burn- 
ing hydro-gas  from  a  little  movable  beak,  upon  the 
two  edges  or  surfaces  which  it  is  desired  to  solder 
together.  There  is  less  liability  of  metals  thus  joined 
cracking  asunder  at  the  line  of  union  from  strain, 
temperature,  etc.,  than  when  the  ordinary  solder  pro- 
cess is  used.  This  system  of  soldering  is  quite  ad- 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  167 

vantageous  in  chemical  establishments  for  joining 
the  edges  of  sheet-zinc  for  concentrated  pans  and  sul- 
phuric acid  chambers,  as  the  speedy  corrosion  of 
soldering  containing  tin  is  inevitable. 

SOLDERING  BRASS  TO  CAST-IRON. 

When  it  is  necessary  to  solder  brass  to  cast-iron,  the 
part  of  the  iron  to  be  soldered  should  be  polished  on 
an  emery  wheel  until  it  becomes  clean  and  bright.  It 
should  then  be  dipped  in  potash  water,  after  which 
it  is  filtered  for  a  moment  in  clean  water  and  washed 
rapidly  with  ordinary  undiluted  hydro-chloric  acid. 
It  is  then  gone  over  with  powdered  resin  and  a  solder 
made  of  50  per  cent,  lead  and  50  per  cent.  tin.  This 
step  must  be  taken  before  the  surface  drys. 

(2)  Another  method  is  to  file  the  surface  clean, 
wash  same  and  wipe  it  with  a  flux  made  by  the  dis- 
solution of  sheet-zinc  in  hydro-chloric  acid  until  the 
latter  is  surcharged.  That  is,  when  it  becomes  a  sat- 
urated solution  and  has  been  diluted  with  its  own 
quantity  of  water.  Then  powdered  sal-ammoniac  is 
to  be  sprinkled  on  it  and  the  mass  is  to  be  heated  on  a 
charcoal  fire  until  the  sal-ammoniac  commences  to 
smoke.  It  is  then  to  be  dipped  in  melted  tin  and  on 
its  removal  the  surplus  tin  is  to  be  knocked  off. 

SOLDERING  BRIGHT  COPPER. 

When  it  is  desired  to  solder  bright  copper  and  to 
have  the  solder  the  same  color  as  the  copper  surface, 
it  may  be  done  this  way:  Moisten  the  solder  with  a 
saturated  solution  of  vitriol  of  copper  and  then,  touch- 
ing the  solder  with  an  iron  or  steel  wire,  a  thin  skin 
of  copper  is  precipitated,  which  can  be  thickened  by 
repeating  the  process  several  times. 

To  make  the  solder  brass-colored,  if  it  is  desired  to 
gild  the  soldered  spot,  it  is  first  coated  with  copper  in 
the  manner  indicated  above,  and  then  with  gum  or 
isinglass  and  powdered  with  bronze  powder.  The 
surface  thus  obtained  may,  after  drying,  be  brightly 
polished. 


108  MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS. 

iSOLDERING  CAST-IRON  ARTICLES. 

To  solder  together  cast-iron  articles,  first  clean 
same  and  then  brush  with  a  scratch-brush  until  they 
are  covered  with  a  dry  coat  of  brass,  imparted  by 
said  brush.  The  surface  thus  covered  with  brass  is 
then  tinned  just  as  brass  itself  is  tinned  and  the  parts 
are  soldered  as  customary. 

SOLDERING  ENAMELED  WORK. 

A  fusible  solder  for  enameled  work  is  made  from 
9  parts  Silver, 
3  parts  Copper, 
32  parts  Gold  (of  750  degrees  fineness). 

SOLDERING  FAT. 

To  make  soldering  fat,  there  should  be  melted  in  a 
pot  over  a  hard  coal  fire  1  Ib.  tallow  and  1  Ib.  olive 
oil,  into  which  is  stirred  8  ounces  of  pulverized 
colophony  and  the  mass  allowed  to  boil.  After  the 
mixture  is  cooled,  add,  with  constant  stirring,  ^  pint 
of  water  which  has  been  saturated  with  pulverized 
ammonia. 

SOLDERING  FLUID. 

A  soft  soldering  fluid  that  will  not  rust  tools  is 
found  in  oleic  acid  (crude). 

(2)  For  soldering  fluid  take  one  drachm  each  of 
powdered  copperas,  borax,  and  prussiate  of  potash;  % 
ounce  of  powdered  sal-ammoniac;  3%  ounces  fluid 
muriatic  acid;  let  the  mixture  cut  all  the  zinc  it  will 
and  then  dilute  with  1  pint  of  water. 

(3)  For  soldering  fluid:  Add  granulated  zinc  or  zinc 
scraps  to  two  fluid  ounces  of  muriatic  acid  until  hy- 
drogen ceases  to  be  given  off;  add  one  teaspoonful  of 
ammonium  chloride;  shake  well  and  add  2  fluid  ounces 
of  water. 

SOLDERING  GRAY  CAST-IRON. 

To  solder  gray  cast-iron,  first  dip  the  castings  in  al- 
cohol, after  which  sprinkle  muriate  of  ammonia  over 
the  surface  to  be  soldered.  Then  hold  the  castings 


MANUAL   OP   RECEIPTS.  1G9 

over  a  charcoal  fire  till  the  sal-ammoniac  begins  to 
smoke;  then  dip  it  into  melted  tin.  This  prepares  the 
castings  for  soldering,  which  is  done  in  the  usual  way. 

SOLDERING  GOLD. 

Some  of  the  common  soldering  for  gold  is  composed 
of  the  following  ingredients: 

1  part    Copper, 
9  parts  Gold, 

2  parts  Silver. 

(This  solder  is  to  be  used  for  gold  of  fineness  750 
for  hard  soldering.) 

3  parts  Copper, 
7  parts  Silver, 
12  parts  Gold. 

(This  solder  is  to  be  used  for  soft  soldering  for  gold 
of  fineness  750). 

(1)  1  part    Copper, 

2  parts-  Copper, 

3  parts  Gold. 

(2)  5-10  parts  Copper, 
5-10  parts  Silver, 

2  parts  Gold. 

(These  solders  are  to  be  used  for  gold  of  fineness 
583). 

(1)  1  part    Copper, 
2  parts  Silver, 
1  part     Gold. 

(2)  2  parts  Silver, 
1  part     Gold. 

(3)  2  parts  Copper, 
1  part    Gold. 

(These  solders  are  for  gold  for  less  fineness  than 
583). 
A  solder  for  gold  that  is  readily  fusible  consists  of 

5    1-100  parts  Zinc, 
r>4  74-100  parts  Silver, 
28  17-100  parts  Copper, 
11  94-100  parts  Gold. 


-    170  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 


SOLDERING  LIQUID. 

A  soldering  liquid  is  prepared  by  the  dissolution  of 
small  pieces  of  zinc  in  pure  hydro-chloric  acid  until 
effervescence  stops.  After  a  wait  of  a  day  or  two  the 
undissolved  zinc  is  to  be  taken  out  and  the  solution 
filtered,  compounded  with  1-3  its  volume  of  spirits  of 
sal-ammoniac,  and  then  diluted  with  rain  water.  If 
•this  soldering  liquid  be  used  there  is  no  rust  caused 
on  iron  or  steeL 

(2)  Another  soldering  liquid  is  made  by  the  dissolu- 
tion of  1  part  glycerine  and  1  part  of  lactic  acid  in  8 
parts  of  water. 

SOLDERING  PASTE. 

A  soldering  paste  is  made  by  a  mixture  of  chloride 
of  tin  with  starch  paste. 

SOLDERING   RUSSIA   IRON. 

To  solder  Russia  iron,  heat  the  piece  of  iron  with  a 
well-heated  soldering  iron  for  about  half  an  inch.  It 
don't  want  to  be  made  too  hot,  but  draw  the  iron 
over  same,  say  for  8  or  10  inches,  and  then,  while  it 
is  hot  apply  raw  muriatic  acid,  rubbing  the  soldering 
over  same;  then  with  a  wet  cloth  wipe  clean  and 
apply  cut  acid  and  solder,  rubbing  the  hot  iron  over 
same  and  while  hot  wipe  off  with  the  wet  cloth,  and 
it  should  be  as  bright  as  tin  and  as  easy  to  solder. 

SOLDERING  SAWS. 

To  solder  saws  the  tools  required  are  a  blow-pipe,  a 
piece  of  charcoal,  some  borax  and  spelter.  The  ends 
of  the  saw  are  filed  smooth,  so  that  one  side  will  lap 
over  the  other  and  the  sides  opposite  each  other  are  to 
be  fitted  together  and  the  bundle  bound  with  iron 
and  wire  for  keeping  it  in  place.  The  lap  is  then 
dampened  with  borax  which  has  been  dissolved  in 
water,  and  the  saw  is  placed  on  the  charcoal.  The 
broken  parts  are  to  be  put  near  the  gas-jet  and  the 
parts  previously  wet  with  the  spelter  are  to  be 
sprinkled  and  the  flame  of  the  gas  is  to  be  blown  until 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  171 

the  spelter  runs.  It  should  be  cold  before  it  is  re- 
moved. When  quite  cold  it  should  be  filed  quite  flat 
with  the  other  part  of  the  saw. 

SOLDERING  WITHOUT  A  SOLDERING-IRON. 

For  soldering  without  a  soldering-iron,  use  a  fine 
solder  composed  of 

1  part    Tin, 

2  parts  Bismuth, 
2  parts  Lead. 

Next  solder  a  piece  with  solder  composed  of 

4  parts  Tin, 
4  parts  Lead, 
1  part     Bismuth. 

The  best  soldering  liquid  to  employ  is  made  of 
equal  parts  of  water  and  hydro-chloric  acid  which  has 
been  saturated  with  zinc. 

SOLDER— PLATINUM. 

Platinum  crucibles  and  wires  may  be  soldered  by 
means  of  fine  gold  wire  in  the  oxyhydrogen  jet.  It 
can  also  be  soldered  over  a  blow-pipe.  The  solder 
used  is  auric  chloride  (Au  Cl),  which  on  heating  de- 
composes first  into  aurous  chloride,  and  at  a  higher 
temperature  into  chloride  and  gold.  The  salt  melts 
at  about  200  degrees  Cent.,  and  in  the  blow-pipe  the 
gold  runs  as  a  solder.  Care  should  be  taken  to  draw 
the  platinum  from  the  flame  when  the  gold  is  seen 
to  run,  in  case  it  spreads  too  far  and  leaves  the  joint 
weak.  The  latter  must  not  afterwards  be  exposed  to 
a  higher  temperature  than  that  at  which  the  soldering 
was  effected.  In  the  case  of  soldered-up  longish 
holes,  a  spongy  platinum  may  be  mixed  with  the  auric 
acid.  Hammering  the  soldered  joint  while  hot  serves 
to  finish  off  the  joint.  Wires  and  strips  of  platinum 
can  in  this  way  be  joined  by  putting  the  chloride 
crystals  on  each  clean  surface  and  gently  heating 


172  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

them  till  nearly  "black,  then  binding  the  surfaces  to- 
gether and  further  heating  them  in  the  blow-pipe  fire. 

SOLDER— PEWTERERS'. 

The  coarse  solder  used  by  pewterers  is  formed  of 
tin,  3  parts;  lead.  4;  and  bismuth,  2;  the  fine,  of  tin, 
2;  lead,  1;  bismuth,  1. 

SOLDER— PLUMBERS'   COARSE. 

Plumbers'  coarse  solder  is  composed  of  the  follow- 
ing: Tin,  1  part;  lead,  3  parts. 

SOLDER-PLUMBERS'   FINE. 

Plumbers'  fine  solder  is  composed  of  the  following: 
Tin,  1  part;  lead,  2  parts. 

SOLDER— PLUMBERS'  SEALED. 

Plumbers'  sealed  solder  is  composed  of  the  follow- 
ing: Tin,  1  part;  lead,  2  parts. 

SOLDER-SILVER. 

To  make  good,  hard  silver  solder,  take  3  parts,  ster- 
ling silver  and  1  part  brass  wire.  Melt  in  a  crucible. 

The  best  flux  for  use  with  silver  solder  is  borax. 
Silver  solder  may  be  melted  in  fire  or  with  the  use  of 
a  blow-pipe. 

SOLDER— SILVER,    FOR  JEWELERS. 

Silver  solder  for  jewelers  is  composed  of  the  follow- 
ing: Silver,  19  parts;  copper,  1  part;  brass,  1  part. 

SOLDER— SILVER,   FOR   PLATING. 

Silver  solder  for  plating  is  composed  of:  Silver,  2 
parts;  copper,  1  part;  brass,  1  part. 

SOLDER— SILVER,    FOR    SILVER,    BRASS    AND 
IRON. 

Silver  solder  for  silver,  brass  and  iron  is  composed 
of  the  following:  Silver,  1  part;  brass,  1  part. 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  173 

SOLDER-SILVER,  FOR  STEEL  JOINTS. 

Silver  solder  for  steel  joints  is  composed  of  the  fol- 
lowing: Silver,  19  parts;  copper,  1  part;  brass,  1  part. 

(2)  More  fusible:  Silver,  5  parts;  brass,  5  parts; 
zinc,  5  parts. 

SOLDER— SOFT. 

The  commonest  soft  solder  used  consists  of  1  part 
of  lead  and  2  parts  of  tin.  The  greater  the  proportion 
of  lead  the  cheaper  will  be  the  solder.  The  most 
fusible  solder  not  containing  bismuth  is  made  of  1 
part  of  lead  and  l1/^  parts  of  tin.  For  ordinary  plumb- 
ing-work, solders  are  used  composed  of 


(1) 

3 
1 

parts 
part 

Lead, 
Tin. 

(2) 

2 
1 

parts 
part 

Lead, 
Tin. 

(3) 

1 
1 

part 
part 

-Lead, 
Tin. 

(4) 

1 

11/2 

part 
parts 

Lead; 
Tin. 

(5) 

1 

2 

part 
parts 

Lead, 
Tin. 

(2)  To  prepare  a  soft  solder  which  can  be  used  with- 
out acid  or  a  soldering  iron,  soldering  articles  of  tin- 
ware by  simply  holding  over  a  candle.    It  is  made  by 
melting  and  mixing  40  parts  of  tin,  20  parts  of  lead,  40 
parts  bismuth  by  weight,  and  run  into  small  bars  by 
pouring  from  a  perforated  ladle  while  drawing  the 
ladle  across  a  flat  piece  of  iron,  stone  or  board. 

(3)  Is  composed  of  6  parts  of  lead,  1  part  of  cad- 
mium, 7  parts  of  bismuth.    Another  soft  solder  is  com- 
posed of  2  part  of  lead,  4  parts  of  tin,  and  2  parts  of 
cadmium. 


174  MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS. 

SOLDER-SOFT,    FOR    ALUMINUM    BRONZE. 

A  soft  solder  for  aluminum  bronze  is  composed  of 

57  1-10  per  cent.  Silver. 

14  3-10  per  cent.  Copper. 

14  3-10  per  cent.  Gold, 

14  3-10  per  cent.  Brass. 
The  brass  should  be  made  of 

70  per  cent.  Copper, 

30  per  cent.  Tin. 

SOLDER-SPELTER. 

Spelter  solder  is  made  from  equal  parts  of  zinc  and 
copper.  When  used  for  brazing  the  parts  should  be 
heated  red-hot  in  a  crucible  with  a  flux  of  borax  and 
charcoal  dust,  and  the  addition  of  the  zinc  should  be 
made. 

(2)  Solder  of  hard  spelter  (from  spelter,  the  com- 
mercial name  given  to  plates  of  manufactured  zinc) 
is  used  for  joining  copper,  and  is  prepared  from  cop- 
per (16  parts)  and  zinc  (12  parts).  For  soldering  brass 
this  formula  is  changed  to  one  of  equal  parts  copper 
and  zinc,  forming  the  solder  known  as  soft  spelter. 

SOLDER— TINNERS'. 

Tinners'  solder  is  composed  of  the  following:  Tin, 
iy2  parts;  lead,  1  part. 

SOLDER-TINNERS'  FINE. 

Tinners'  fine  solder  is  composed  of  the  following: 
Tin,  2  parts;  lead,  1  part. 

SOLDER— WIRE. 

Wire  solder,  such  as  is  sold  to  housewives  to  be  used 
by  melting  it  with  a  candle,  is  made  as  follows:  Make 
a  small  hole  in  the  bottom  of  any  tin  vessel,  and  al- 
low melted  solder  to  flow  through  this  aperture,  while 
moving  the  vessel  along  over  an  iron  surface.  Most 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  175 

of  the  stuff  sold  by  peddlers  contains  bismuth,  and  is 
deleterious  when  used  on  culinary  utensils. 

SPECULUM   METAL. 

This  alloy,  commonly  used  for  the  manufacture  of 
metallic  reflectors,  is  white  in  color,  and  has  a  hard 
surface  not  easily  scratched  or  tarnished.  It  con- 
tains from  64  to  69  per  cent,  of  copper  and  30  to  35 
per  cent,  of  tin.  The  white  color  is  made  more  con- 
spicuous by  the  addition  of  small  quantities  of  arsenic 
and  antimony. 

STAINING    WOOD    BLACK. 

Almost  any  wood  can  be  dyed  black  by  the  follow- 
ing means:  Take  logwood  extract,  powder  1  ounce 
and  boil  it  in  314  pints  of  water;  when  t'he  extract  is 
dissolved,  add  1  drachm  potash  yellow  chromate  (not 
the  bichromate),  and  agitate  the  whole.  The  liquid 
will  serve  equally  well  to  write  with  or  to  stain  wood. 
Its  color  is  a  very  fine  dark  purple,  which  becomes  a 
pure  black  when  applied  to  the  wood. 

STANNIC   SULPHIDE. 

Stannic  sulphide  is  obtained  by  passing  through  a 
heated  tube  sulphurated  hydrogen  and  stannic  chlo- 
ride. It  can  also  be  made  by  heating  mixtures  of 
corrosive  sublimate  and  stannic  'sulphide. 

STEAM    BOILER    INSULATION. 

To  insulate  steam  boilers,  grind  with  water  into  a 
paste  of  consistency  of  mortar,  asbestos,  gypsum, 
cement  and  cork  waste,  applying  same  with  a 
trowel. 

STEEL-GRAY    COATING. 

The  mixture  for  steel-gray  coating  is  prepared  as 
follows:  Triturate  3  85-100  grains  of  lamp-black  with 
3  drops  of  gold-size  oil  in  a  dish  to  a  homogeneous 
cohering  mass  and  dilute  this  with  24  drops  of  oil  of 


176  MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS. 

turpentine.    Apply  with  fine  brush  in  very  thin  and 
uniform  layers  and  allow  to  dry  thoroughly. 

STEEL-GRAY    ON    BRASS. 

To  obtain  steel-gray  coloring  on  brass  employ  a  com- 
pound of 

1  pound  Strong  Hydro-Chloric  Acid, 
1  pint  of  Water, 
to  which  the  addition  is  made  of 

5^4  ounces  Pulverized  Autimonic  Sulphide, 
5%  ounces  Pulverized  Iron  Filings. 

(2)  Another  mixture  for  this  purpose  is  composed 
of  hydro-chloric  acid  compounded  with  arsenious  acid. 
This  compound  is  put  in  a  lead  vessel  and  the  objects 
immersed  in  it  should  be  brought  in  touch  with  the 
leaden  sides  of  the  vessel  or  should  be  enwrapped 
with  a  strip  of  lead. 

STEEL-GRAY    ON    COPPER. 

In  order  to  give  copper  a  steel-gray  color  the  ar- 
ticles are  to  be  cleaned  and  pickled  in  a  heated  solu- 
tion of  chloride  of  antimony  in  hydro-chloric  acid. 
By  the  use  of  a  strong  galvanic  current  a  coating  with 
a  steel-gray  precipitation  of  arsenic  may  be  given 
the  articles  by  putting  them  in  a  heated  arsenic  bath. 
If  it  is  desired  to  give  copper  a  dark,  steel-gray  color 
a  good  pickle  consists  of  1  quart  of  hydro-chloric  acid. 
%  quart  nitric  acid,  1^  ounces  iron  filings,  l1/^  ounces 
arsenious  acid. 

STEEL    MADE    TO    IMITATE    GOLD. 

In  order  to  give  a  ground  steel  object  the  appear- 
ance of  gold  or  good  bronze,  the  first  step  is  in  re- 
moving all  dirt  from  the  same  by  a  bath  in  benzine, 
petroleum  or  turpentine.  It  is  then  to  be  heated  and 
a  light  gold  varnish  applied,  which  on  drying  is  to  be 
coated  with  the  best  copal  lacquer, 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  177 

STERRO-METAL. 

Sterro-metal  is  composed  of 
54  parts  Copper, 
40  parts  Zinc, 
6  parts  Ferro- manganese. 

TALMI  GOLD. 

Talmi  gold  is  a  copper-zinc  alloy  composed  of 
86  4-10  parts  Copper, 
12  2-10  parts  Zinc, 

1  1-10  parts  Tin, 

1  3-10  parts  Iron. 

TARTAR  EMETIC. 

Tartar  emetic  is  made  by  boiling  cream  of  tartar 
with  tetroxide  of  antimony  until  its  dissolution. 

TEMPERING  MAGNETS. 

To  temper  magnets,  use  a  water-tight  vessel,  with 
two  soft-iron  pole  pieces  at  the  bottom.  Place  under- 
neath these  the  poles  and  electro-magnet.  Partially 
fill  the  vessel  with  water,  an<d  put  a  layer  of  oil  above 
this.  Plunge  the  red-hot  bar  through  these.  It  will 
be  found  that  its  prior  passage  through  the  oil  will 
soften  the  steel  without  demagnetization. 

TEMPERING  MINING  PICKS. 

To  temper  mining  picks  heat  them  in  charcoal  fire 
until  red-hot  and  then  immerse  in  cold  rain  water  and 
beep  there  until  nearly  cold.  The  use  of  salt  water 
for  this  tempering,  as  is  done  by  many  blacksmiths,  is 
erroneous,  as  there  should  be  no  salt  in  the  water, 
but  the  same  should  be  cold.  If  the  water  is  warm, 
put  in  a  little  ice. 

TESTING  KEROSENE. 

The  causes  of  the  lamp  explosions  so  frequently  re- 
ported is  the  use  of  poor  oil.  A  simple  plan  for  test- 


178  MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS. 

ing  the  flashing  point  of  kerosene  oil  used  for  illumi- 
nation is  as  follows:  No  kerosene  is  fit  for  use  in  lamps 
which  flashes  at  a  temperature  less  than  110  degrees 
Fahr.  To  test  oil,  fill  a  tumbler  full  of  water  at  110 
degrees  Fahr.,  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  kerosene, 
and  leave  until  the  oil  reaches  the  same  temperature. 
Pass  a  lighted  match  over  the  oil  as  it  floats  on  the 
surface,  and,  if  the  oil  does  not  ignite  it  may  be  safely 
used.  If  it  flashes  at  that  temperature  discard  it. 

TESTING  RUSSIA  IRON. 

A  simple,  practical  way  for  testing  Russia  iron,  so 
as  to  distinguish  readily  between  the  genuine  article 
and  the  inferior  imitations  that  are  in  the  market: 
The  genuine  article  is  known  by  its  fine  black  lustre 
and  small  granulation  of  the  sarface  in  reflected  light. 
Otherwise  by  its  toughness  in  bending  with  and 
across  the  grain. 

TIERS'  ARGENT. 

Tiers'  argent  is  an  alloy  composed  of 

66  66-100  parts  Aluminum, 
33  33-100  parts  Silver. 

TIN-BURNING. 

The  metal  tin  can  be  burned  as  easily  as  paper,  and 
to  do  it  makes  an  interesting  parlor  experiment.  A 
candle,  blow-pipe  and  tin  foil  are  necessary.  With  the 
blow-pipe  direct  the  flame  of  the  candle  against  a 
strip  of  tin  foil,  and  it  will  readily  take  fire  and  burn 
with  a  brilliant  light,  the  melted  incandescent  globules 
falling  to  the  table  and  dancing  about  in  a  very 
curious  manner.  It  will  be  noticed  that  the  product 
of  the  combustion  of  the  tin  is  a  white  powder,  the 
oxide  of  tin,  and  it  was  observed  many  years  ago  that 
this  calx,  as  it  was  called,  weighed  more  than  the 
original  tin. 

TIN  FOIL— TESTING. 
To  discover  if  an  article  is  tin  foil  or  lead  foil  plunge 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  179 

same  in  a  bath  of  concentrated  sulphuric  acid.    This 
will  dissolve  tin,  while  lead  will  remain  undissolved. 

TINNING  BATH  FOR  METALS. 

To  cover  metals  with  a  layer  of  tin  by  an  immersion 
process,  they  are  dipped,  after  being  well  cleaned,  in 
a  boiling  bath,  containing  ammoniacal  alum,  535 
parts;  water,  870  parts;  proto-chloride  of  tin,  31  parts. 

(2)  Another  bath  for  tinning  is  the  following:  Bi- 
tartrate  of  potash,  435  parts;  water,  870  parts;  proto- 
chloride  of  tin,  31  parts. 

(3)  To  cover  metals  with  a  layer  of  tin  by  means 
of  electricity,  the  following  bath  is  prepared:  Pyro- 
phosphate  of  potash,  400  parts;  proto-chloride  of  tin, 
150  parts;  water,  560  parts.    The  anode  is  an  ingot  of 
pure  tin  (Banca);  the  negative  is  a  zinc. 

(4)  A  bath  is  prepared  by  leading  chlorine  through 
a  concentrated  solution  of  chloride  of  tin  until  satur- 
ated.   The  excess  of  chlorine  is  then  driven  away  by 
heating  the  solution  after  adding  to  it  ten  times  its 
volume   of   water  and   filtering.     The  pieces   which 
have  to  be  tinned  are  cleaned  in  dilute  acid,  polished 
with  fine  sand,  washed,  and  then,  suspended  to  zinc 
wire,  are  left  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  in  the  galvan- 
izing bath.    This  method  has  the  advantage  that  the 
bath  becomes  charged  with  chloride  of  zinc  very  soon, 
and  that  the  tin  salt  must  be  often  added. 

(5)  Tartaric  acid,  62  parts;  water,  3,000  parts;  soda, 
90  parts;  proto-chloride  of  tin,  90  parts. 

TINNING. 

For  putting  a  thin  coat  of  tin  on  common  black  iron, 
for  cold  tinning,  the  following  is  recommended:  Dis- 
solve block  tin  in  muriatic  acid  and  add  a  little  mer- 
cury, or  one  part  of  tin,  two  of  zinc  and  six  parts  of 
quicksilver.  Mix  tin  and  mercury  together  until  they 
form  a  paste.  Clean  the  plate,  carefully  removing  all 
grease,  then  rub  with  a  piece  of  cloth  moistened  with 
muriatic  acid  and  immediately  apply  a  little  of  the 
amalgam  to  the  surface,  rubbing  it  with  the  same 
rag. 


180  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

TINNING  BAND  IRON. 

To  tin  band  iroa  make  a  tinning  bath  as  follows: 
Dissolve  with  the  aid  of  heat,  in  an  enameled  cast- 
iron  kettle,  ammonical  alum,  11  oz.,  and  fused  proto- 
fhloride  of  tin  1-3  oz.  in  4y2  gallons  of  soft  water. 
Clean  and  rinse  the  iron  to  be  tinned  in  cold  water, 
and  immerse  in  the  solution  as  soon  as  it  boils.  This 
process  will  give  a  thin  coating  of  tin  of  a  dead  lustre, 
which  may  be  rendered  bright  by  friction.  The  bath 
should  be  maintained  at  proper  length  by  small  addi- 
tions of  proto-chloride  of  tin. 

TINNING  BRASS  AND  COPPER  VESSELS. 

For  tinning  brass  and  copper  vessels:  The  plates 
or  vessels  of  brass  or  copper  boiled  with  a  solution  of 
stannate  of  potassia,  mixed  with  turnings  of  tin,  be- 
come, in  the  course  of  a  few  minutes,  covered  with  a 
firmly  attached  layer  of  pure  tin.  (2)  A  similar  effect 
is  produced  by  boiling  the  articles  with  tin-filings 
and  caustic  alkali,  or  cream  of  tartar.  In  this  way 
chemical  vessels  made  of  copper  or  brass  may  be 
easily  and  perfectly  tinned. 

TINNING  CAST-IRON. 

Have  your  metal  clean,  by  first  scouring,  and  then 
swabbing  out  with  dilute  acid.  Then  heat  it,  and 
with  a  wisp  of  greasy  tow  rub  the  molten  tin  all  over. 
In  the  dipping  process  all  you  have  to  do  is  to  get  the 
pieces  quite  clean,  and  then  immerse  in  a  tank  of  oil 
or  tallow,  and  when  hot  pass  into  the  tank  of  molten 
tin. 

TINNING   CAST-IRON   STUDS  AND   CHAPLETS. 

Pickle  the  studs  in  oil  of  vitriol,  then  cover  or  im- 
merse them  in  muriate  of  zinc,  after  which  dip  them 
in  a  melted  bath  of  tin  or  solder. 

TINNING  CLOTH. 

To  tin  cloth,  a  mixture  of  finely  pulverized  metallic 
zinc  and  albumen,  of  about  the  consistency  of  thin 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  181 

paste,  is  spread  with  a  brush  upon  linen  or  cotton 
cloth,  and  by  means  of  hot  steam  coagulated.  The 
cloth  is  now  immersed  in  a  bath  of  stannic  chloride, 
well  washed  and  dried.  Running  the  cloth  through  a 
roller  press,  the  tin  film  is  said  to  take  metallic  lustre. 
Designs  cut  in  stout  paper,  letters,  numbers,  etc., 
when  laid  between  cloth  and  roller,  are  impressed 
upon  it.  It  can  also  be  cut  in  strips,  corners,  etc. 

TINNING  METALS. 

To  cover  metals  with  a  layer  of  tin  by  an  immer- 
sion process,  they  are  dipped,  after  being  well  cleaned, 
in  a  boiling  bath  containing  ammoniacal  alum,  535 
parts;  boiling  water,  4,600  parts;  proto-chloride  of  tin, 
31  parts.  Another  bath  for  tinning  is  the  following: 
Bitartrate  of  potash,  435  parts;  water,  870  parts; 
proto-chloride  of  tin,  31  parts.  To  cover  metals  with 
a  layer  of  tin  by  means  of  electricity,  the  following 
bath  is  prepared:  Pyro-phosphate  of  potash,  400  parts; 
proto-chloride  of  tin,  150  parts;  water,  560  parts. 
The  anode  is  an  ingot  of  pure  tin  (Banca);  the  nega- 
tive is  a  zinc  ingot. 

(2)  A  bath  is  prepared  by  leading  chlorine  of  tin 
until  saturated.    The  excess  of  chlorine  is  then  driven 
away  by  heating  the  solution  after  adding  it  to  ten 
times  its  volume  of  water  and  filtering.     The  pieces 
which  have  to  be  tinned  are  cleaned  in  dilute  acid, 
polished  with  fine  sand,  and  then,  suspended  to  zinc 
wire,  are  left  for  ten  to  fifteen  minutes  in  the  galvan- 
izing bath.    This  method  has  the  inconvenience  that 
the  bath  becomes  charged  with  chloride 'of  zinc  very 
soon,  and  that  the  tin  salt  must  be  often  added. 

(3)  Tartaric  acid,  62  parts;  water,  3,000  parts;  soda, 
90  parts;  proto-chloride  of  tin,  90  parts, 

TINNING  SMALL  ARTICLES. 

To  tin  small  articles,  dissolve  as  much  zinc  scraps  in 
muriatic  acid  as  it  will  take  up,  let  it  settle,  then  de- 
cant the  clear  and  it  is  ready  for  use.  Next  prepare  a 
suitable  iron  vessel,  set  it  over  the  fire,  put  your  tin 


182  MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS. 

therein,  and  melt  it,  and  put  as  much  mutton  or  beef 
tallow  as  will  cover  the  tin  about  one-fourth  inch 
thick.  This  prevents  the  oxidation  of  the  metal;  but 
be  careful  that  the  tallow  does  not  catch  fire.  The 
iron,  or  any  other  metal  to  be  tinned,  must  be  well 
cleaned,  either  with  scraping,  filing,  polishing  with 
sand,  or  immersed  in  diluted  vitriol.  Proceed  to  wet 
the  articles  in  the  zinc  solution,  then  carefully  im- 
merse them  in  the  tallow  and  melted  tin;  in  a  very 
short  time  they  will  become  perfectly  tinned,  when 
they  may  be  taken  out. 

TINNING  SMALL  STEEL  ARTICLES. 

Clean  articles  bright  with  sulphuric  acid.  Having 
made  all  parts  clean,  wash  in  a  solution  of  sal-am- 
monia, and  dry  them  in  sawdust  or  by  heat;  but  be 
sure  they  are  dry  before  bathing  in  metal  or  the 
metal  will  fly.  You  next  require  a  large  pot  (a  glue 
pot  is  just  the  thing),  with  two  compartments,  the 
inner  one  being  perforated  to  hold  the  articles  to  be 
tinned  and  the  outside  one  for  the  metal.  Powder 
your  articles  with  sal-ammoniac  and  dip  them  in  the 
molten  metal,  which  should  be  free  from  dross;  after 
all  smoke  has  disappeared,  lift  the  inner  compart- 
ment out,  i.  e.,  the  one  that  contains  the  articles,  and 
sprinkle  some  more  sal-ammoniac  over  them,  also  a 
little  over  the  molten  metal,  this  preventing  them 
from  being  coated  too  heavily.  When  you  have  reach- 
ed the  same  heat  as  the  metal,  take  them  out  and 
shake  well  to  get  surplus  solder  off  and  cool  rapidly 
in  water,  drying  in  sawdust  to  preserve  their  lustre. 
Very  small  articles-  can  be  tinned  with  a  soldering 
iron  and  brushed  off  with  a  brush,  but  whichever  way 
is  adopted  care  should  be  taken  to  have  the  articles 
perfectly  clean  before  starting,  and  be  sure  that  you 
get  the  articles  good  and  hot  or  the  coating  of  metal 
will  peel  off  when  cold. 

TINNING  SOLDERING  IRONS. 
Heat  the  copper  red-hot  and  file  it;  have  on  hand  a 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  183 

piece  of  sal-ammoniac  and  rub  the  copper  upon  it; 
then  put  on  a  little  solder. 

TIN  PIPE— TESTING  FOR  LEAD. 

To  test  tin  pipe  to  find  whether  there  is  any  lead 
there  or  not,  proceed  as  follows:  On  the  tinned  sur- 
face place  some  string  nitric  acid,  and  with  a  splinter 
of  wood  rub  it  over  the  surface  as  large  as  a  25-cent 
piece;  allow  it  to  dry;  when  dry  two  drops  of  a  solu- 
tion of  bi-chromate  of  potassium  should  be  dropped 
on  the  same  place.  If  the  tin  contains  lead,  a  bright 
yellow  crust  of  chromate  of  lead  will  form  on  the 
spot.  The  test  is  a  very  simple  one,  yet  thoroughly 
reliable,  and  is  decisive. 

TIN  PUTTY. 

Tin  putty  from  glowing  oxalate  of  tin,  which  is  a 
product  of  the  decomposition  of  tin-salt  with  oxalic 
acid. 

TIN   SALT. 

Tin  salt  is  made  by  the  dissolution  of  granulated 
tin  in  hot  hydro-chloric  acid,  the  solution  being  evap- 
orated to  a  syrupy  consistency  and  then  crystallized. 

TIN— TEST  FOR. 

To  test  tin,  break  it,  and  it  will  give  out  a  singular 
crackling  sound.  Various  impurities  in  tin  can  be 
recognized  in  the  following  manner:  Dissolve  tin  in 
clear  regia  and  mix  a  portion  of  this  solution  with 
potassium  ferro-cyanide.  If  there  is  a  white  precipi- 
tation, it  is  tin;  if  a  blue  precipitation,  there  is  a 
trace  of  iron  present;  and  if  there  is  a  red-brown  pre- 
cipitation, there  is  copper  present.  For  the  detection 
of  lead,  add  to  your  mixture  a  quantity  of  sulphuric 
acid.  To  detect  the  presence  of  lead  in  tin  dissolve 
potassium  bichromate  in  water,  then  acetic  acid  is  to 
be  applied  to  the  tin  you  wish  to  test.  This  will  pro- 
duct a  whitish  coating.  Next  apply  your  potassium 
bichromate  solution,  and  if  the  whiting  coating  showa 


184  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

ti-aces  of  yellow,  there  is  lead  in  the  tin.    The  yel- 
lower the  coating,  the  more  lead. 

TISSIER'S  METAL. 

Tissier's  metal  is  a  copper-zinc  alloy  composed  of 
96  parts  Copper, 
2  parts  Zinc, 
1  part    Arsenic. 

TOMBAC. 
Tombac  is  a  copper-zinc  alloy  composed  of 

(1)  85  parts  Copper, 
15           parts  Tin. 

(2)  92  parts  Copper, 

8  parts  Tin. 

(3)  85  3-10  parts  Copper, 
14  7-10  parts  Tin. 

(4)  86  4-10  parts  Copper, 
13  6-10  parts  Zinc. 

(5)  87  parts  Copper, 
13  parts  Zinc. 

(6)  80  parts  Copper, 
17  parts  Zinc, 

3  parts  Tin. 

TOURNAY'S  METAL. 

Tournay's  metal  is  a  copper-zinc  alloy  composed  of 
82  54-100  parts  Copper, 
17  46-100  parts  Zinc. 

TRACING  PAPER. 

For  ordinary  draughtsmen's  tracing  paper,  saturate 
the  paper  well  with  a  mixture  of  one  part  of  balsam 
of  fir  and  three  parts  spirits  of  turpentine.  Dry  the 
paper  by  hanging  it  up. 

(2)  A  temporarily  transparent  tracing  paper  may 
be  made  by  dissolving  castor  oil  in  absolute  alcohol, 
and  applying  the  liquid  to  the  paper  with  a  sponge. 


MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS.  185 

The  alcohol  evaporates  and  leaves  the  paper  dry, 
when  the  tracing  rnay  be  made.  If  the  paper  is  then 
immersed  in  absolute  alcohol  the  oil  will  be  removed 
and  the  paper  restored  to  its  original  opacity. 

TRANSFER    COMPOSITION. 

For  a  transfer  composition  for  transferring  figures 
of  any  kind  on  stove  patterns:  The  composition  is 
made  of  1%  Ibs.  dark  glue,  1%  Ibs.  dark  resin,  3  Ibs. 
common  whiting,  3  gills  boiled  linseed  oil.  Dissolv- 
ing the  glue  to  a  thick  paste,  dissolve  the  resin  in  the 
oil  by  heating  it,  mix  the  whole  with  the  whiting  to  a 
heavy  dough.  Keep  the  composition  in  a  damp  place, 
and,  when  desired  for  use,  soften  with  steam.  To 
transfer  ornaments,  etc.,  the  first  step  is  to  get  the 
ornament  or  letter  sunk  in  rosewood  by  a  practical 
stove  pattern  carver,  then  press  the  composition  into 
the  die  under  a  light  book  press  (letter  press)  and  a 
sharp  raised  transfer  of  the  die  is  obtained.  Cut  this 
off  with  a  knife  and  paste  on  the  wood  pattern  with 
shellac.  Artistic  ornaments  and  the  entire  alphabet 
will  be  done  to  order  by  a  first-class  die  sinker  at  a 
reasonable  price. 

TRANSFER  PAPER  FOR  METALLIC  PATTERNS. 

A  transfer  paper  for  copying  metallic  patterns  or 
monumental  inscriptions  may  be  made  by  rubbing  a 
mixture  of  black  lead  and  soap  over  the  surface  of 
silver  paper. 

TRIPOLI. 

The  tripoli  which  is  used  for  polishing  of  soft  met- 
als, being  used  first  with  oil  and  then  dried,  is  a  yel- 
low powder  which  consists  almost  entirely  of  the 
abundant  shells  of  microscopic  organisms. 

TUTANIA. 

Tutania  is  composed  of 

7  6-10  parts  Lead, 
3-10  parts  Zinc, 
7-10  parts  Copper, 
91  4-10  parts  Tin. 


186  MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS. 

UNGILDING  COPPER. 

To  ungild  copper,  which  is  unable  to  stand  glowing, 
the  gold  can  be  dissolved  by  being  dipped  in  a  warm 
mixture  of  2  G4-100  ounces  of  concentrated  hydro- 
chloric acid,  1  pound  fuming  sulphuric  acid,  and  1  3-10 
ounces  of  nitric  acid  of  40  degrees  Be.  Before  these 
articles  are  treated  in  this  bath  they  should  be  per- 
fectly dry,  and  the  bath  itself  should  not  be  diluted 
with  water,  in  which  case  the  acid  would  act  upon  the 
base  metals. 

UNGILDING  IRON  AND  STEEL. 

To  remove  the  gilding  from  articles  of  iron  and 
steel  they  should  be  given  treatment  as  the  anode  in  a 
solution  of  from  2  to  2%  oz.  of  98  per  cent,  potassium- 
cyanide  in  1  qt.  of  water  and  held  over  a  copper-plate, 
greased  with  tallow  or  oil  as  the  cathode. 

UNGILDING   SILVERWARE. 

To  remove  the  gilding  from  silverware  heat  same 
until  it  glows,  and  then  plunge  in  diluted  sulphuric 
acid,  which  will  cause  the  layer  of  gold  to  peel  off. 
This  process  is  to  be  repeated  until  the  removal  of  all 
the  gold.  Prior  to  the  glowing  and  immersion,  the  ar- 
ticles may  be  given  a  coat  of  a  paste  composed  of 
flour  of  sulphur,  sal-ammonium,  potassium,  ni- 
trate of  borax,  this  paste  being  allowed  to  dry.  The 
gold  in  the  gilding  will  be  found  on  the  bottom  of  the 
vessel  holding  the  boiled  sulphuric  acid  in  the  form  of 
scales  and  laminae.  Boil  these  scales  and  laminae 
with  pure  sulphuric  acid,  was"h  them,  followed  by 
their  dissolution  in  aqua  regia,  and  make  them  into 
chloride  of  gold  or  fulminating  gold. 

UNTINNING  OF  TINPDATE  SCRAPS. 

For  untinning  tinplate  scraps,  use  a  large  pot  con- 
taining soda,  lye,  and  oxide  of  lead.  About  3  per  cent, 
tin  is  obtained  by  the  process. 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  187 

UTILIZING   NICKEL  WASTE. 

To  utilize  the  waste  from  nickel  sand,  which  collects 
on  the  bottom  of  vats  and  also  from  cast  nickel 
anodes,  wash  same  often  in  clean  hot  water  and  then 
boil  in  dilute  sulphuric  acid,  in  which  there  is  1  part 
of  acid  and  parts  of  water  until  the  water,  when 
poured  upon  waste,  does  not  cloud  same  any  more.  At 
this  stage  pour  off  the  liquid  and  submit  the  waste  to 
treatment  with  concentrated  nitric  acid.  Great  care 
should  be  taken  in  doing  this,  a  large  earthen  vessel 
being  used  to  prevent  the  solution  from  running  over. 
The  solution  will  be  of  sufficient  concentration  when 
it  contains  but  little  free  acid  and  should  then  be  fil- 
tered and  slowly  evaporated,  until  dry,  over  the  water 
bath.  The  name  of  the  resultant  product  is  nickel- 
nitrate.  Proceed  by  the  dissolution  of  this  nickel- 
nitrate  in  hot  water  and  precipitate  same  with  grad- 
ual additions  of  caustic  soda.  Then  filter  and  wash 
this  precipitation  of  hydrated  nickel  oxide  and  sub- 
mit it  to  treatment  with  dilute  sulphuric  acid  with 
the  assistance  of  heat  until  its  solution.  Concentrate 
this  solution  by  evaporation  and  add  an  excess  of 
concentrated  solution  of  ammonium-sulphate.  This 
precipitation  is  a  double  solution  of  nickel  and  am- 
monia and  can  be  used  for  nickel-plating. 

VARNISH— ASPHALT,  FOR  SHEET  METALS. 

A  bright  asphalt  varnish  for  sheet  metals  is  made 
by  boiling  cold  tar  until  it  shows  a  disposition  to  be- 
come hard,  when  it  gets  cool.  This  can  be  found  out 
by  rubbing  a  little  on  a  piece  of  metal.  Twenty  per 
cent,  of  lump  asphalt  is  then  to  be  added  to  the  tar 
and  stirred  in  until  the  lumps  are  melted.  Then  it  is 
allowed  to  cool  and  can  be  kept  for  use, 

VARNISH— BLACK,  FOR  IRON  WORK. 

For  making  black  varnish  that  has  a  gloss,  fuse 
three  pounds  Egyptian  asphaltum;  when  it  is  liquid 
add  one-half  pound  shellac  and  one  gallon  turpentine. 


188  MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS. 

VARNISH-BLACK,   FOR  STEEL  AND   IRON. 

A  black  varnish  for  steel  and  iron  is  made  by  boil- 
ing together  sulphur  and  turpentine.  Upon  evapora- 
tion of  the  turpentine  a  thin  layer  of  sulphur  is  left, 
•which  is  united  with  the  iron  when  heated  a  short 
time  over  a  gas  or  spirit  flame. 

(2)  For  a  good  black  varnish  for  covering  iron 
•work,  etc.,  use  48  pounds  of  asphaltum;  add  10  gal- 
lons of  boiled  oil,  red  lead  and  litharge  7  pounds  each, 
dried  and  powdered  white  copperas  3  pounds.  Boil 
for  2  hours;  then  add  8  pounds  dark  gum  amber  (fuse), 
2  gallons  hot  linseed  oil;  boil  for  two  hours  longer  or 
until  a  little  of  the  mess  when  cooled  may  be  rolled 
into  pills,  then  withdraw  the  heat,  and  afterward  thin 
down  with  30  gallons  of  oil  of  turpentine. 

VARNISH-BLACK,   FOR  STOVES. 

To  make  a  brilliant  black  varnish  for  stoves  and 
fire-places,  ivory  black  stirred  into  ordinary  shellac- 
varnish  is  said  to  answer  the  purpose  well. 

VARNISH— BLACK,    FOR    TIN. 

An  excellent  black  varnish  for  zinc  or  tin  is  com- 
posed as  follows:  Equal  parts  of  chlorate  of  potassium 
and  blue  vitriol  (sulphate  of  copper)  are  dissolved  in 
36  times  as  much  warm  wrater,  and  the  solution  is 
allowed  to  cool.  If  the  sulphate  of  copper  contains 
iron,  it  is  precipitated  as  a  hydrate  oxide,  and  can  be 
removed  by  decanting  or  filtering.  The  metal  pieces 
to  be  coated  are  then  immersed  in  the  solution,  or  the 
solution  may  be  flowed  on,  and  allowed  to  remain  a 
few  moments,  until  the  metal  becomes  black.  Then 
rinse  off  with  water  and  let  dry.  Even  before  it  is 
dry  the  black  coating  adheres  to  the  article,  so  that 
it  may  be  wiped  with  a  cloth.  If  copper-colored  spots 
appear  during  the  operation,  the  same  solution  should 
be  applied  a  second  time  in  the  same  manner.  On 
rubbing,  'the  coating  acquires  a  glittering  blue  appear- 
ance, like  indigo,  but  this  disappears  on  applying  a 
few  drops  of  linseed  oil,  varnish,  of  "wax-milk,"  and 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  189 

the  metal  then  has  >a  deep  black  color  and  gloss.  The 
"wax-milk"  above  referred  to  may  be  prepared  by 
boiling  1  part  yellow  soap  and  5  parts  Japanese  wax 
in  21  parts  of  water  until  the  soap  dissolves.  When 
cold  it  has  the  consistency  of  a  salve,  and  will  keep  in 
a  closed  vessel  for  an  indefinite  time.  It  can  be  used 
for  polishing  carved  wood  and  for  waxing  ball-room 
floors,  as  it  is  cheaper  than  the  solution  of  wax  and 
turpentine,  and  does  not  stick  or  have  any  disagree- 
able odor. 

VARNISH— BLACK,  FOR  ZINC. 

A  black  varnish  for  zinc  is  made  by  the  dissolution 
equal  parts  of  blue  vitriol  and  chlorate  of  potash  in 
36  times  their  volume  of  warm  water.  The  solution 
is  then  permitted  to  cool.  Should  there  be  iron  in  the 
blue  vitriol  it  is  precipitated  as  a  hydrated  oxide  and 
its  removal  can  be  made  by  nitration.  Next,  plunge 
the  zinc  castings  in  this  solution  for  a  second  or  so, 
when  they  will  become  very  black.  Then  rinse  them 
off  in  water  and  dry  them.  This  black  coating  will 
adhere  to  the  article  even  before  it  is  completely  dried. 
The  solution  should  be  applied  a  second  time  should 
copper-colored  spots  make  their  appearance  during 
the  operation.  If  you  rub  it,  a  glittering  appearance, 
something  like  indigo,  will  be  acquired  by  the  coat- 
ing. This,  however,  will  disappear  on  the  application 
of  a  few  drops  of  Linseed  Oil  Varnish,  which  is  com- 
posed by  boiling  together  5  parts  of  Japanese  wax 
and  1  part  of  yellow  soap  in  21  parts  of  water,  until 
the  dissolution  of  the  soap.  The  zinc,  after  being 
treated  with  this  varnish,  has  a  deep  black  color  and 
gloss. 

VARNISH— COLOR,   FOR   SHEET  METALS. 

A  color  varnish  for  sheet  metals  is  made  by  powder- 
ing 7%  drachms  of  acetate  of  copper  in  a  mortar, 
spreading  this  powder  in  a  thin  layer  upon  a  plate  and 
allowing  it  to  stand  in  a  lukewarm  place.  In  the 
course  of  a  day  or  two  the  evaporation  of  most  of  the 
acetic  acid  and  water  of  crystallization  will  have 


190  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

taken  place.  The  residue  of  light  brown  powder  is 
then  to  be -triturated  with  oil  of  turpentine,  into  which 
there  are  stirred  Sy2  ounces  of  high-grade  fat  copal 
varnish  of  a  heat  of  1.67  degrees  Fahrenheit.  If  the 
rubbing  of  the  acetate  of  copper  has  been  thoroughly 
performed  the  dissolution  of  most  of  it  will  be  evapor- 
ated after  15  minutes'  stirring.  Then  pour  the  varnish 
into  a  glass  bottle,  put  it  in  a  warm  place  and  shake 
it  often.  The  little  amount  of  acetate  of  copper  set- 
tling on  the  bottom  can  be  used  again  for  other  por- 
tions of  varnish.  The  color  of  this  varnish  is  a  dark 
green,  and  it  takes  4  to  5  coats  to  produce  a  brilliant 
green  luster  on  sheet  metals.  If  a  gold  shade  is  de- 
sired 2  coats  are  sufficient.  The  article  to  be  gilded 
being  heated  in  a  drying  chamber  or  upon  metal- 
plates  wrhich  have  been  uniformly  heated.  The  time 
of  heating  is  the  determinent  of  the  resultant  shade, 
which  may  be  either  green  or  yellow,  dark  yellow, 
orange  or  reddish-brown. 

VARNISH-COPAL. 

Copal  varnish  is  made  as  follows:  Pale  African 
copal,  7  pounds;  fuse;  add  clarified  linseed  oil,  one- 
half  gallon;  boil  for  5  minutes.  Remove  it  into  the 
open  air,  and  add  boiling  oil  of  turpentine,  3  gallons; 
mix  well;  strain  it  into  the  cistern  and  cover  it  up 
immediately.  This  is  used  to  varnish  furniture,  and 
by  japanners,  coachmakers,  etc.  Dries  in  15  minutes, 
and  may  be  polished  as  soon  as  hard. 

VARNISH    FOR    COATING    WOOD    AND    IRON. 

A  good  varnish  for  coating  wood  and  iron  is  made 
by  placing  3  pounds  powdered  resin  in  a  receptacle, 
adding  to  same  21,£  pints  spirits  of  turpentine,  shaking 
well  and  allowing  same  to  stand,  shaking  from  time 
to  time,  for  two  days.  After  the  elapse  of  two  days, 
5  quarts  of  boiled  linseed  oil  are  to  be  added,  and  the 
whole  shaken  together.  Then  decant  the -clear  por- 
tion, reducing  same  with  spirits  of  turpentine,  in  order 
to  acquire  the  right  consistency. 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  191 

VARNISH    FOR    DECORATING   TINPLATE. 

Rub  to  a  fine  powder  30  parts  of  crystallized  acetate 
of  copper,  and  leave  it  in  a  thin  layer  on  porcelain 
for  a  few  days  in  a  moderately  warm  place,  to  drive 
off  the  water  of  crystallization  and  a  portion  of  the 
acetic  acid.  Rub  the  bright  brown  powder  that  is 
left  with  a  small  quantity  of  turpentine,  and  add  it 
with  constant  stirring  to  one  hundred  parts  of  fine 
copal  varnish  heated  to  167  degrees  F.  If  the  acetic 
acid  was  sufficiently  finely  powdered,  it  will  dissolve 
on  stirring  it  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Pour  the 
varnish  into  a  glass  vessel  and  set  aside  for  a  few 
days,  with  occasional  shaking.  The  varnish  is  dark 
green.  Four  or  five  applicotions  to  tinned  iron  give 
a  fine  green,  lustrous  tint.  If  heat  is  applied  two 
coats  will  give  greenish,  yellow,  dark  yellow,  orange, 
or  reddish  brown  tints,  according  to  the  temperature. 
The  source  of  heat  may  be  an  oven  or  an  equally 
heated  iron  plate.  Success  depends  on  the  uniform 
application  of  the  varnish  and  the  heat. 

VARNISH   FOR   IRON. 

A  varnish  for  iron  is  made  by  mixing,  when  warmed 
in  an  iron  kettle,  %  pound  powdered  resin,  ~y2  pound 
asphalt  and  2  pounds  tar  oil.  The  mixture  must  be 
dissolved  and  care  must  be  taken  to  prevent  any  con- 
tact of  same  with  the  flame. 


VARNISH  FOR  IRON   PATTERNS. 

A  varnish  for  iron  patterns  is  made  by  dropping 
strong  sulphuric  acid  drop  by  drop  into  oil  of  turpen- 
tine. This  will  cause  a  precipitation  in  the  oil  of  tur- 
pentine of  a  syrupy  nature.  The  acid  should  be  added 
until  the  precipitation  no  longer  forms.  The  liquid  is 
then  poured  out  and  the  syrup  washed,  when  it  is 
ready  for  application.  The  iron  to  be  varnished  is  to 
be  heated  to  a  luke-warm  heat  and  after  the  applica- 
tion of  the  varnish  allowed  to  dry. 


192  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

VARNISH  FOR  POLISHED  EDGES. 

White  lava  varnish  is  used  to  preserve  polished 
edges  from  rusting  and  at  the  same  time  not  detract 
from  their  appearance.  Also  white  varnish  may  be 
used;  or  dissolve  as  much  white  resin  in  one-half  pint 
of  turpentine  as  it  will  take,  and  apply  with  a  paint 
•brush. 

VARNISH   FOR   MACHINERY. 

A  varnish  for  machinery  and  foundry  patterns, 
which  dries  as  soon  as  put  on,  gives  the  patterns  a 
smooth  surface,  thus  insuring  an  easy  slip  out  of  the 
mold,  prevents  the  patterns  from  warping,  shrinking 
or  swelling,  and  is  quite  impervious  to  moisture,  is 
prepared  in  the  following  manner:  Thirty  pounds  of 
shellac,  10  pounds  Manila  copal,  and  10  pounds  of 
Zanzibar  copal  are  placed  in  a  vessel  which  is  heated 
externally  by  steam,  and  stirred  during  4  to  6  hours, 
after  which  150  parts  of  the  finest  potato  spirit  are 
added,  and  the  whole  heated  during  four  hours  to  87 
degrees  C.  This  liquid  is  dyed  by  the  addition  of 
orange  color,  and  can  then  be  used  for  painting  the 
patterns.  When  used  for  painting  and  glazing  ma- 
chinery it  consists  of  35  pounds  of  shellac,  5  pounds 
of  Manila  copal,  10  pounds  Zanzibar  copal  and  150 
pounds  of  spirit. 

VARNISH  FOR  TINPLATE. 

A  receipt  for  varnishes  for  tinplate  is  as  follows: 
Take  30  grams  of  sub-acetate  of  copper  (copper 
green)  and  make  into  powder,  spread  quite  thin  on  a 
porcelain  plate  and  keep  in  a  moderately  warm  place 
for  some  days.  After  this  time,  the  crystal  water  and 
the  greater  part  of  the  acetic  acid  will  have  evapo- 
rated. The  light-brown  powder  that  remains  is  then 
ground  in  a  mortar  with  some  turpentine  and  100 
grams  of  fine  fat  copal  lac  warmed  to  167  degrees  F., 
is  then  added.  If  the  copper  oxide  has  been  well  pre- 
pared it  will  be  mostly  dissolved  after  a  quarter  of  an. 


MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS.  193 

hour's  stirring.  The  varuish  is  then  put  in  a  glass 
and  kept  in  a  warm  place  for  some  days,  keeping  oc- 
casionally stirred.  The  small  quantities  of  acetate 
of  copper,  which  are  still  deposited,  are  used  in  the 
next  preparation.  The  dark  green  varnish  gives  a 
fine  glittering  color  oa  tin.  but  only  after  the  fourth  or 
fifth  coating,  but  two  coatings  will  give  the  most 
varied  colors  after  drying  in  a  drying  chamber  or  on 
warm  irou  plates.  Greenish,  yellowish,  or  dark-yel- 
low gold  colors,  then  orange,  and.  finally,  reddish- 
brown  shades  are  obtained,  according  to  the  dura- 
tion of  the  temperature.  The  colors  are  far  brighter 
than  those  obtained  by  English  gold  lac,  and  keep 
fast  under  light.  The  composition  of  the  gold  color 
depends  on  the  deduction  of  the  dissolved  copper  oxide 
into  the  hydrosilicate  of  copper,  which  is  soluble  in 
small  quantities  as  gold  color  in  the  copal  lac.  The 
more  deduction  is  obtained  the  darker  the  colors  will 
be. 

VARNISH— GREEN.  FOR  METALS. 

Thoroughly  dissolve  in  a  strong  potash  lye  a  quan- 
tity of  finely  pulverized  gum  sandarac.  This  solution 
is  to  be  diluted  with  water,  and  then  follows  its  pre- 
cipitation with  a  copper  salt  solution,  either  acetate 
or  sulphur.  Wash  and  dry  the  green  precipitation, 
which  is  then  dissolved  in  oil  of  turpentine. 

VARNISH-GREEN   TRANSPARENT. 

A  green  transparent  varnish  for  metals  is  made  by 
grinding  a  quantity  of  finely-powdered  chromate  of 
potash  with  one-half  the  quantity  of  Chinese  blue,  to 
which  is  added  a  sufficient  amount  of  copal  varnish, 
thinned  with  turpentine.  If  the  alteration  of  the  tone 
of  the  varnish  is  desired,  the  amount  of  the  various 
ingredients  used  should  be  changed  accordingly. 

VARNISH-METAL. 

A  good  varnish  for  metals  is  made  by  decomposing 
potash  or  soda  soap  with  sulphate  of  zinc.  This  soap 
is  then  purified  by  water,  and  after  10  per  cent,  of  tal- 


194  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

low  has  been  added  the  mass  is  diluted  by  petroleum, 
which  affects  the  dissolution  of  the  metal  soap.  The 
compound  is  then  filtered  until  it  is  bright  and  clear. 

VARNISH  TO  PREVENT  RUST  IN  IRON  AND 
STEEL. 

Dissolve  1  part  white  wax  in  15  parts  benzine,  and 
apply  a  thin  layer  with  a  brush.  This  forms  a  perfect 
covering,  and  is  easily  removed  when  necessary. 

VERDIGRIS. 

Verdigris  is  made  from  either  copper  and  vinegar,  or 
by  putting  together  sheets  of  copper  with  the  skins  of 
pressed  grapes. 

WAGNER'S  BRITANNIA  METAL. 

Wagner's  Britannia  metal  is  composed  of 

83-100  parts  Bismuth, 
3    6-10    parts  Zinc, 
81    1-100  parts  Copper, 
9  66-100  parts  Antimony, 
85  64-100  parts  Tin. 

WARNE'S  METAL. 
Warne's  metal  is  composed  of 
7  parts  Nickel, 
7  parts  Bismuth, 
3  parts  Cobalt, 
10  parts  Tin. 
This  metal  is  white. 

WASHING  BRASS  WITH  TIN. 
To  wash  brass  with  tin,  boil  together  6  pounds  of 
cream  of  tartar,  4  gallons  of  water,  and  8  gallons  of 
grain  tin  or  tin  shavings,  for  half  an  hour  in  a  porce- 
lain-lined vessel;  put  clean  brass  ware  in  the  boiling 
liquid  for  a  few  minutes,  or  until  properly  coated. 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  195 

WELDING  CAST-STEEL. 

In  welding  cast-steel  it  should  be  kept  from  the  air 
during  the  heating  and  should  be  heated  as  quickly  as 
possible.  It  should  not  be  made  too  hot  or  it  is  liable 
to  either  burn  or  break  in  pieces  while  being  ham- 
mered. 

Coke,  not  coal,  should  be  used  for  the  fire,  as  the 
latter  contains  sulphur,  which  would  give  the  surface 
of  the  steel  a  sulphide  or  iron  coating.  The  following 
is  the  flux  to  use: 

}i  pound  Washing  Potash, 
i/i  pound  Borax, 

and  a  small  quantity  of  white  glass,  powdered.  These 
ingredients  being  mixed  together,  and,  when  cold, 
powdered.  This  flux  will  accomplish  the  dissolution 
of  oxide  formations.  Before  the  steel  is  placed  in  the 
fire  apply  some  to  protect  the  surface  of  the  work 
from  oxide. 

(2)  A  welding  compound  that  is  excellent  for  cast- 
steel  is  composed  of 

3  to    5          parts  Carbonate  of  Soda, 

15  5-10  to  26  7-10  parts  Ferro-cyanide  of  Potash, 
35  parts  Common  Salt, 

7  6-10  parts  Resin, 

41  5-10  parts  Boric  Acid. 

WELDING  COMPOUND  FOR  STEEL  TO  STEEL. 
A  compound  for  welding  steel  to  steel  is  composed  of 
10  parts  Borax, 
2  parts  Sal-ammoniac, 
1  part    Flour  of  Sulphur. 
Another  for  the  same  purpose  is  composed  of 
8  parts  Calcined  Soda, 

15  5-10  parts  Prussiate  of  Potash, 
35  parts  Common  Salt, 

41  5-10  parts  Boric  Acid, 


19G  MANUAL   OF   RECEIPTS. 

WELDING  COPPER. 

The  ingredients  of  a  mixture  for  welding  copper  are 
2  parts  Boric  Acid, 
1  part    Soda  Phosphate. 

WELDING  STEEL  TO  STEEL. 

The  following  compound  is  useful  for  welding  steel 
to  iron  or  steel: 

35  parts  Iron  Filings  (free  from  rust). 
70  parts  Sal-ammoniac, 
70  parts  Prussiate  of  Potash, 
500  parts  Borax. 

This  compound  is  to  be  pulverized  in  a  mortar  and 
next  turned  into  a  crucible.  Water  is  added  until  a 
thick  paste  is  made  and  the  crucible  is  put  over  a 
wood  fire  and  the  contents  are  continuously  stirred. 
The  resultant  is  then  cooled,  pulverized,  and  is  ready 
for  use.  It  looks  a  good  deal  like  pumice-stone,  with 
green  and  gray  streaks. 

WELDING  WROUGHT  IRON  AND  STEEL-COM- 
POUND FOR. 

A  compound  for  welding  wrought  iron  and  steel,  at 
a  red  heat,  is  composed  of 

7  G-10  parts  Colophony, 
26  7-10  parts  Prussiate  of  Potash, 
35  parts  Boric  Acid, 

30  1-10  parts  Common  Salt. 

Another  compound  is  composed  of  the  following 
mixture: 

6      parts  Borax. 

1  part  Prussiate  of  Potash, 
%  part  Resin, 

2  parts  Sal-ammoniac, 


MANUAL   OF  RECEIPTS.  197 

pulverized  and  mixed  with  water.  The  mixture  is 
then  boiled  with  constant  stirring  until  the  formation 
of  a  stiff  paste.  This  paste  is  then  hardened  over  a 
fire,  and,  when  cold,  pulverized  and  mixed  with  1 
part  wrought  iron  filings,  free  from  rust.  In  use  the 
powder  should  be  scattered  upon  the  red-hot  pieces 
and  liquefied  over  the  fire. 

WELDING  WROUGHT  IRON  TO  WROUGHT 
IRON  AT  A  RED  HEAT. 

A  compound  for  welding  wrought  iron  to  wrought 
iron  at  a  red  heat  is  composed  of 

%  part  Sal-ammoniac, 
y2  part  Water, 
1      part  Borax. 

These  ingredients  are  boiled  and  stirred  until  stiff, 
then  they  are  allowed  to  harden  over  a  fire.  After  it 
is  cooled  the  compound  should  be  pulverized  and  thor- 
oughly mixed  with  1-3  part  of  unrusted  wrought  iron. 
Dovetail  the  pieces  to  be  welded  and  make  the  place 
to  be  welded  red-hot,  then  scatter  the  powder  upon  it 
and  liquefy  over  a  fire.  A  light  tap  or  two  with  a 
hammer  is  ample  for  joining  the  pieces  together. 

WHITE   METAL. 

White  metal  is  composed  of 
42  parts  Tin, 
40  parts  Lead, 
2  parts  Cupro-manganese, 
20  parts  Antimony. 

WHITENING    BRASS    AND    COPPER. 

The  whitening  of  brass  and  copper  articles  can  be 
accomplished  by  boiling  them  in  a  solution  of  1  pound 
grained  tin,  %  pound  cream  of  tartar  and  2  quarts 
water.  The  dissolution  of  tin  takes  place  in  the  cream 
of  tartar,  and  it  is  again  precipitated  on  the  brass  and 
copper. 


198  MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS. 

WHITEWASH  THAT  WILL  STICK  AND  WASH. 

For  a  wash  which  can  be  applied  to  lime  walls  and 
afterward  become  waterproof  so  as  to  bear  washing. 
Take  3  parts  silicious  rock  (quartz),  3  parts  broken 
marble  and  sandstone,  also  2  parts  of  burned  porce- 
lain clay,  with  2  parts  freshly  slacked  lime,  still  waim. 
In  this  way  a  wash  is  made  which  forms  a  silicate 
if  often  wetted,  and  becomes  after  a  time  almost  like 
stone.  The  four  constituents  mixed  together  form 
the  ground  color  to  which  any  pigment  that  can  be 
used  with  lime  is  added.  It  is  applied  quite  thickly 
to  the  wall  or  other  surface,  let  dry  one  day.  and  the 
next  day  frequently  covered  with  water,  which  makes 
it  waterproof.  This  wash  can  be  cleansed  with  water 
without  losing  any  of  its  color;  on  the  contrary,  each 
time  it  gets  harder,  so  that  it  can  even  be  brushed, 
while  its  porosity  makes  it  look  soft.  The  wash  or 
calcimine  can  be  used  for  ordinary  purposes  as  well 
as  for  the  finest  painting.  A  so-called  fresco  surface 
can  be  prepared  with  it  in  the  dry  way. 

WRINGER   ROLLS. 

To  put  on  new  rolls,  wind  the  shaft,  after  old  roll 
has  been  removed,  with  jute  twine.  Place  one  end 
of  the  shaft  in  a  vise  and  cover  the  shaft  with  a  thin 
coat  of  rubber  cement,  twist  the  new  roll  on  as  quick- 
ly as  possible,  and  let  it  stand  two  or  three  days  be- 
fore using. 

WRINGER  ROLLS-CLOTHES. 

For  manufacturing  rubber  rolls  for  clothes  wring- 
ers, the  vulcanized  rubber  in  sheets  is  rolled  tightly 
around  the  iron  cores.  The  material  being  cohesive 
or  adhesive,  sticks  together.  The  roller  is  then  put 
into  an  iron  mold  and  pressed  tightly,  so  that  the  Iron 
core  or  spindle  will  be  forced  to  the  center.  The 
whole  is  then  put  in  the  steam  oven  and  vulcanized. 
Rubber  cement  is  used  for  mending  old  work.  It  may 
be  had  from  rubber  dealers. 


MANUAL  OF  RECEIPTS.  199 

ZINC  COVERED  IRON  PLATES 

For  covering  iron  plates  with  zinc,  first  see  that  the 
plates  are  thoroughly  cleaned;  then  dip  them  into  a 
bath  of  chlorides  of  zinc  and  ammonium,  and  finally 
in  a  bath  of  zinc  and  mercury. 

ZINC-NICKEL. 

Zinc-nickel  is  an  alloy  composed  of  90  parts  zinc  and 
10  parts  nickel,  used  as  a  pigment. 

ZINC   OXIDE. 

Zinc  oxide  is  made  by  burning  zinc  white. 
ZINC   SULPHATE. 

Zinc  sulphate  is  made  by  roasting  blende  and  lixivi- 
ating the  mass  with  water. 


INDEX. 


Acetate  of  Lead 5 

Acid-Proof  Cement 32 

Acids  for  Solder 158 

Acid  Spots— Removing  from  Steel 143 

Agate  Ware— Repairing 5 

Aich  Metal 5 

Alloy— Delatot's 72 

Alloy  for  Cold  Soldering 5 

Alloy  for  Holes  in  Castings 6 

Alloy  for  Solder 6 

Alloy— Lipowitz 7 

Alloy— Mousset's  Silver 7 

Alloy  of  Tin  and  Copper 7 

Alloys— Japanese 7 

Alloy— Wood's 8 

Aluminum    Brass ' 8 

num  Bronze— Hulot's  Solder  for 160 


num  Bronze— Jewelry  Solder  for 161 

num  Bronze— Soft  Solder  for 174 

num  Bronze — Solder  for 165 

num — Coating 59 


Alum 
Alum 
Alum 
Alum 
Alum 

Aluminum— Coating  for  Iron  and  Steel 8 

Aluminum— Nickel 118 

Aluminum— Solder  for 159,  160 

Aluminum— Soldering  with  a  Blow  Pipe. . ; 166 

Aluminum— Soldering  with  a  Soldering  Iro'n 166 

Amalgam— Arlington 8 

Amalgam— Copper  Cementing  with 51 

Amalgam— Diamond y 

Amalgam— Hood's 9 

Amalgam — Johnson  &  Lund's 9 

Amalgam — Lawrence's 9 

Amalgam— Liquid  for  Silvering  Globes 9 

Amalgam— Towneend's 9 


202  INDEX. 

Amalgam— To wnsend's    Improved 9 

Amalgam— Walker's 9 

Ammonia— Ferrous  Sulphate 9 

Ancient  Bronze 20 

Annealing   Steel 10 

Anti-Attrition   Metal— Babbitt's 11 

Anti-Friotion   Composition 10 

Antimonoid 10 

Antimony— Butter   of 31 

Antimony— Coloring  on  Brass 10 

Antimony— Polishing 128 

Antique  Brass 18 

Aquarium  Cement 33 

Argentan  Solder 158 

Argentic    Oxide 1 

Armenian  Cement 52 

Arrington   Amalgam 8 

Asbestos— Cement  for 35 

Asbestos— To  Fasten  to  Iron 77 

Asphalt  Varnish  for  Sheet  Metals 187 

Ashberry  Metal > 11 

Autogenous    Soldering 166 


Babbitt's  Anti-Attrition  Metal I  I 

Bad  Smells— To  Correct 68 

Balls  for  Polishing  Silver 129 

Band  Iron  Tinning 180 

Barrels,  Gun— Bronze  for 22 

Barrels,  Gun— Production  of  Damask  in  Relief  on 140 

Bath— Tinning  for  Metals 179 

Battery 12 

Beating  Gold 85 

Belgian  Polishing  Powder 12 

Bell    Metal 13 

Bell  Metal— Japanese 102 

Bells,    Church— Repairing 55 

Bending  Tin  Tubes 13 

Biddery  Metal 13 

Birmingham  Britannia  Metal 13 

Bismuth— Nitrate 14 

Bismuth— Solder 158 

Bituminous    Cement 33 

Black— Brilliant  for  Iron  and  Steel 20 


INDEX.  203 

Black— Brunswick 30 

Blackening   Copper 14 

Blackening  Sheet  Iron 14 

Black  Ground  for  Japanning 97 

Blacking— Harness 15 

Blacking— Sheet  Zinc 15 

Blacking— Stove 15 

Black— Iron 14 

Black— Iron  Cement  for  Iron  Ovens 33 

Black— Japan 97 

Black— Staining  Wood 175 

Black  to  Coat  Cast  Iron 61 

Black  Varnish  for  Iron 188 

Black  Varnish  for  Iron  Work 187 

Black  Varnish  for  Steel 188 

Black  Varnish  for  Stoves 188 

Black  Varnish  for  Tin 188 

Black  Varnish  for  Zinc 189 

Blast  Pipes— Cement  for 36 

Blow  Pipe— Soldering  Aluminum  with 166 

Blue-Black  Coloring  for  Copper 63 

Blue  Color  for  Iron  and  Steel 16 

Blue  Japan  Grounds 98 

Blue  Print  Process 17 

Blue    Prints 17 

Bluing   Iron 18 

Bluing  Sheet  Steel 17 

Bluing  Steel 18 

Bluing  Steel  or  Iron 18 

Boiler  Bottoms— Replacing 146 

Boilers,  Leaky— Cement  for 41 

Boilers,  Steam— Cement  for 45 

Boilers,  Steam— Insulation  of 175 

Bolts,  Rusty— Their  Removal 145 

Bottle  Cork  Cement 33 

Bottoms,   Boiler— Replacing 146 

Boxes,  Tin— To  Glue  Labels  on 84 

Brass— Aluminum 8 

Brass  and  Copper  Pipe  Parts— Cement  for 37 

Brass  and  Glass  Cementing 36,  48 

Brass — Antimony  Coloring  on 10 

Brass — Antique 18 

Brass  Articles— Bronzing 24 

Brass— Bristol 18 


204  INDEX. 

Brass — Bronzing 26 

Brass— Cleaning 53 

Brass,  Dipped— Lacquer  for 105 

Brass— Fire-Proof  Brown  Bronze  on 20 

Brasses  for  Side  Rods 19 

Brass— Gold-Colored  Surface  on. •. 86 

Brass— Gold  Stains  for 86 

Brass — Green  Bronze  for 21! 

Brass— Hard  Solder  for 165 

Brass  Lacquer 104 

Brass— Lustrous  Black  on 109 

Brass— Malleable 110 

Brass— Metal  Mountings  on— Cement  for 42 

Brass— Paste  for  Cleaning 123 

Brass— Pickling 126 

Brass  Pipe  Finish 19 

Brass,  Polished— Lacquer  for 105 

Brass— Polish  for  Pressed  Articles  of 128 

Brass    Polishing 130 

Brass    Polishing— Paste  for 133 

Brass— Red 19 

Brass,    Sheet— Roughening 148 

Brass— Silver  Solder  for 172 

Brass— Soldering  to  Cast  Iron 1G7 

Brass— Steel  Gray  on 176 

Brass— Test  for 19 

Brass— To  Color 62 

Brass— To    File 79 

Brass— To  Frost 80 

Brass— To  Scour 150 

Brass  Tube  Seams— Solder  for  Uniting 164 

Brass  Vessels— Tinning 180 

Brass— Violet  Coloring  for 63 

Brass— Washing  with  Tin. . .„ 194 

Brass— Whitening 197 

Brick— Fire 79 

Bright  Copper  Soldering 167 

Brightening  Tinware 19 

Brilliant  Black  for  Iron  and  Steel 20 

Bristol  Brass 18 

Britannia  Metal 20 

Britannia    Metal— Birmingham 13 

Britannia  Metal— German 82 

Britannia  Metal— Karmarsch's 103 


INDEX.  205 

Britannia  Metal— Keller's 104 

Britannia  Metal— Malleable 110 

Britannia   Metal— Pewter 125 

Britannia  Metal— Solder  for 160 

Britannia   Metal— Wagner's 194 

Bronze  Aluminum— Hulot's  Solder  for 166 

Bronze  Aluminum— Soft  Solder  for 174 

Bronze  Aluminum — Solder  for 165 

Bronze— Ancient 20 

Bronze— Brown  Fire-Proof  on  Copper  and  Brass 20 

Bronze— Cheap 21 

Bronze— Cleaning 56 

Bronze— Copper 21 

Bronze  Fixtures — Cleaning 56 

Bronze  for  Castings 21 

Bronze  for  Cast  Iron 21 

Bronze  for  Gilding 21 

Bronze  for  Gun  Barrels 2li 

Bronze  for  Medals 2ii 

Bronze  for  Small  Castings 22 

Bronze— Gold 22,    85 

Bronze,   Golden — Cleaning 57 

Bronze — Green  for  Brass 22 

Bronze— Green  for  Tin 23 

Bronze— Liquid 23 

Bronze— Metal 23 

Bronze— Ormolu 23 

Bronze— Patina  on  Tin 23 

Bronze — Peruvian 23 

Bronze — Phosphor 24 

Bronze— Polishing 129 

Bronze— Silvering 153 

Bronze— Statuary 24 

Bronze — Sun 24 

Bronze— To  File 79 

Bronze  Tucker 24 

Bronzing  Brass  Articles 24 

Bronzing  Cast  Iron 25 

Bronzing  Copper 25 

Bronzing  Copper  and  Brass 26 

Bronzing— Gold,  for  Iron 85 

Bronzing— Green 26 

Bronzing  Iron 27 

Bronzing  Iron  or  Steel 27 


206  INDEX. 

Bronzing   Medals 28 

Bronzing   Steel 27 

Bronzing  Tin 29 

Bronzing  Zinc : 20 

Brown  Color  for  Copper 64 

Brown  Fire-Proof  Bronze  on  Copper  and  Brass 20 

Browning  Copper 2!) 

Browning  Copper — Liquid  for 30 

Browning  Metal 30 

Brown— Sepia,  for  Tin 132 

Brunswick  Black 30 

Brushing— Scratch 155 

Burning  Tin 178 

Burnishing  Silver 30 

Burnt  Cast  Steel— To  Restore 30 

Burnt  Steel  Tools — To  Restore 31 

Butter  of  Antimony 31 


Carbonate-Silver 152 

Card  and  Tin— Cement  for 36 

Carmine    Ink 92 

Cartridges— Polishing 131 

Case-Hardening  Cast  Iron 32 

Case-Hardening  Compound  for  Iron 32 

Casings— Cement  for .*. 36 

Cassius— Purple  of 141 

Castings— Bronze   for 21 

Castings— Cement  for  Defective  Places  In 37 

Castings,  Holes  in— Alloy  for 65 

Castings— Pickling 127 

Castings,   Small— Bronze  for 22 

Castings— To  Enamel 73 

Castings,  Zinc— Solder  for 164 

Cast  Iron— Bronze  for 21 

Cast  Iron  Bronzing 25 

Cast  Iron  Case-Hardening 32 

Cast  Iron  Chaplets— Tinning 180 

Cast  Iron— Coating  a  Glossy  Black 61 

Cast    Iron— Galvanized 81 

Cast  Iron— Removing  Rust  from 144 

Cast    Iron— Silvering 153 

Cast    Iron— Softening 156 

Cast  Iron— Soldering  Brass  to 167 


INDEX.  207 

Cast  Iron  Soldering— Gray 168 

Cast  Iron  Studs— Tinning ISO 

Cast  Iron  Tanks— Cement  for 37 

Cast  Iron— Tinning 180 

Cast  Iron— To  Distinguish 73 

Cast  Iron— To  Enamel 73 

Cast  Iron— To  File 79 

Cast  Iron— To  Harden 89 

Cast  Iron— To  Scour 150 

Cast  Steel,  Burnt— To  Restore 30 

Cast  Steel— Welding 195 

Cast  Zinc— Silvering 153 

Cement— Acid   Proof 32 

Cement— Aquarium 33 

Cement— Armenian 52 

Cement — Bituminous 33 

Cement,  Black— For  Iron  Ovens 33 

Cement— Bottle   Cork 33 

Cement— Diamond 3i 

Cement— Electrical 34 

Cement— Evans'    Metallic 34 

Cement— Fire- Proof 35 

Cement  for  Asbestos 35 

Cement  for  Blast  Pipes 36 

Cement  for  Brass  and  Glass 36 

Cement  for  Card  and  Tin 36 

Cement  for  Casings 36 

Cement  for  Cast  Iron  Tanks 37 

Cement  for  Copper  and  Brass  Pipe  Parts 37 

Cement  for  Defective  Places  in  Castings 37 

Cement  for  Fastening  Copper  on  Sandstone 38 

Cement  for  Fastening  Hooks  in  Stone 37 

Cement  for  Fastening  Iron  to  Stone 38 

Cement  for  Fastening  Labels  on  Polished  Nickel 38 

Cement  for  Fastening  Metals  on  Wood 38 

Cement  for  Glass 38 

Cement  for  Glass  and  Metal 42 

Cement  for  Glass  Parts  on  Lamps 38 

Cement  for  Glass,  Wood  and  Metal 39 

Cement  for  Heated  Objects 33 

Cement  for  Iron  Cisterns 39 

Cement  for  Iron  Railings 39 

Cement  for  Joints 39.  52 

Cement  for  Kerosene  Lamps 40 


208  INDEX. 

Cement  for  Labels  on  Nickel 40 

Cement  for  Labels  on  Polished  Nickel 38 

Cement  for  Leather  and  Iron 41 

Cement  for  Leak  in  Lead  Pipe 41 

Cement  for  Leaky  Boilers 41 

Cement  for  Luting  Crucible  Lids 41 

Cement  for  Machine  Parts 41 

Cement  for  Metal  and  Glass 4ii 

Cement  for  Metal  and  Wood 38 

Cement  for  Metal,  Glass  and  Wood 3!i 

Cement  for  Metal  Letters 4'2 

Cement  for  Metal  Mountings  on  Porcelain,  Brass,  etc.. ..  4:2 

Cement  for  Metal  Parts  on  Glass  Lamps 43 

Cement  for  Ovens 3:> 

Cement  for  Packing  Steam  Piatous 43 

Cement  for  Pipe  Conduits  Unexposed  to  Heat 43 

Cement  for  Punctured  Tires 44 

Cement  for  Repairing  Iron  Pans 44 

Cement  for  Reservoir  Joints 44 

Cement  for  Small  Articles 44 

Cement  for  Steam  Boilers 43 

Cement  for  Steam  Pipes 4."» 

Cement  for  Stonework 4~> 

Cement  for  Stove  Joints 45 

Cement  for  Stoves 45 

Cement  for  Tin  and  Glass 46 

Cement  for  Tinfoil 46 

Cement  for  Water  Pipes 46 

Cement  for  Wood  and  Metal 38 

Cement  for  Wood,  Glass  and  Metal 39 

Cement  for  Zinc  and  Glass 40 

Cement  for  Zinc  Ornaments 4C 

Cement— Gasfltters' 47 

Cement— Glass 47 

Cement— Grouvelle's  Oil 47 

Cement — Impervious  to  Oil 47 

Cementing  Brass  on  Glass 48 

Cementing  Cracks  in  Stones 48 

Cementing  Glass  Into  Metal 48 

Cementing  Iron  to  Iron 49 

Cementing  Iron  to  Wood 49 

Cementing  Knives  and  Forks  in  Silver  Handles 49 

Cementing  Knives  and  Forks  in  Their  Handles 49 

Cementing  Metal  Plates  on  Wooden  Boxes 49 


INDEX.  209 

Cementing  Rubber  or  Gutta  Percha  on  Metal 50 

Cementing  Steam  Pipes 50 

Cementing  Thin  Metal  Sheets 50 

Cementing  with  Copper  Amalgam 51 

Cement — Iron 51 

Cement— Iron  for  High  Temperatures 52 

Cement— Jewelers' 52 

Cement— Metal 53 

Cement— Oil 53 

Cement,  Oil— Stephenson's 53 

Cement,  Rust— For  Iron 53 

Cements— Rust    Joint 53 

Cement— Stone 53 

Cement— Store 54 

Cement— Water    Proof 35 

Chandeliers— Cleaning 57 

Chaplets,  Cast  Iron— Tinning 180 

Cheap   Bronze 21 

Chilling  Iron  Very  Hard 54 

Chloride— Cobaltous 62 

Chloride— Cupric 70 

Chloride— Ferric 78 

Chloride — Ferrous 79 

Chloride— Lead 107 

Chloride  of  Gold 54 

Chloride  of  Platinum 54 

Chloride  of  Zinc 54 

Chlorine— Nickel 118 

Chrome  Yellow ". 54 

Chry  sochalk 55 

Chrysorin 55 

Church  Bells— Repairing 55 

Cisterns — Iron  Cement  for 39 

Ctetern  Water— Purifying 141 

Cleaning    Brass 55 

Cleaning  Brass— Paste  for 123 

Cleaning  Bronze 56 

Cleaning  Bronze  Fixtures 56 

Cleaning  Chandeliers 57 

Cleaning  Coins  and  Medals 57 

Cleaning  Golden  Bronze 57 

Cleaning  Marble 58 

Cleaning  Old  Brass 58 

Cleaning  Polishing  Leather 58 


210  INDEX. 

Cleaning  Screws  of  Rust 58 

Cleaning  Silver  Dial  Plates 58 

Cleaning  Silver  Ornaments 59 

Cleaning  Solder  from  Old  Files 59 

Cleaning   Tinware 59 

Cliche    Metal 59 

Clothes  Wringer  Rolls 198 

Cloth— To  Glue  to  Tin 84 

Coating   Aluminum 59 

Coating  Aluminum— For  Iron  and  Steel 8 

Coating  Cast  Iron  a  Glossy  Black 61 

Coating  Gray  on  Zinc 87 

Coating  Iron — Varnish  for 190 

Coating  Iron  with  Copper 62 

Coating— Non-Rusting 119 

Coating  on  Zinc— Green 87 

Coating  Steel  Gray 175 

Coating  Surfaces  with  Glass 60 

Coating  with  Zinc 61 

Coating  Wood— Varnish  for 190 

Cobaltous   Chloride 62 

Coffee-Colored   Lacquer K»r> 

Coins  and  Medals— Cleaning 57 

Colcothar 62 

Cold  Soldering— Alloy  for 

Color,  Blue— For  Iron  and  Steel 16 

Color,  Gray— For  Iron  and  Steel 87 

Coloring — Antimony  on  Brass 10 

Coloring    Brass 62 

Coloring  Brass  Violet 63 

Coloring  Copper  Blue-Black 63 

Coloring  Copper  Brown 64 

Coloring,   Metal— Iridescent 96 

Coloring  Soft  Solder , 64 

Coloring  Solder 65 

Coloring  Golden  Like  Copper 66 

Coloring  Zinc 66 

Colorless    Lacquer 104 

Color— To    Improve    After    Joining    Brass    with    White 

Solder 92 

Color  Varnish  for  Sheet  Metals 189 

Composition— Anti-Friction 10 

Composition— Transfer 185 

Compound,  Case-Hardening— For  Iron 32 


INDEX.  211 

Compound  for  Hardening  Steefl 67,  89 

Compound  for  Welding  Wrought  Iron  and  Steel 196 

Compound,  Hardening— For  Steel  and  Wrought  Iron 89 

Compound,  Welding— For  Steel  to  Steel 195 

Conduits— Electrical  Insulation  for 95 

Conduits,  Pipe,  Unexposed  to  Heat— Cement  for 43 

Copal— Gum 88 

Copal  Varnish 190 

Copper  Amalgam— Cementing  with 51 

Copper  and  Brass  Pipe  Parts— Cement  for 37 

Copper  and  Tin— Alloy  of 7 

Copper  as  Coating  for  Iron 60 

Copper    Blackening 14 

Copper— Blue-Black  Coloring  for 63 

Copper— Bright  Soldering 167 

Copper   Bronze 21 

Copper    Bronzing 26 

Copper  Browning 29 

Copper  Browning — Liquid  for 30 

Copper— Cement  for  Fastening  on  Sandstone 38 

Copper— Coating  Iron  with 62 

Copper— Dead  Black  Finish  on 70 

Copper— Fire-Proof  Brown  Bronze  on 20 

Copper— Hardening 90 

Copper— Hard  Solder  for 165 

Coppering  Sheet  Iron 67 

Coppering  Tin 114 

Copper — Nitrate 67 

Copper— Oxidizing 120 

Copper— Phosphide    of 125 

Copper— Polishing 130 

Copper— Powder 67 

Copper— Reslnate 68 

Coppers— Soldering  Softening 157 

Copper— Steel  Gray  on 176 

Copper— To  Color  Brown 64 

Copper— To  Color  Solder  Like 66 

Copper— Ungllding 186 

Copper  Vessels— Tinning 180 

Copper— Welding 196 

Copper— Whitening 197 

Copying  Ink 92 

Correcting  Bad  Smells 68 

Corrosive  Sublimate. ..  .     68 


212  INDEX. 

Covering  for  Steam  Pipes  ...............................  68 

Covering,  Insulating—  For  Steam  Pipes  ..................  94 

Cracks  in  Stones  —  Cementing  ...........................  48 

Crucible  Lids—  Cement  for  Luting  .......................  41 

Crucibles—  Their    Preparation  ...........................  60 

Crystallizing  Tin  Plate  .................................  6'J 

Cuivre  Fume  ...........................................  70 

Cupric—  Chloride  ........................................  70 

Cupric—  Sulphate  .......................................  70 

Cutting  Out  Iron  Plates  with  Sulphuric  Acid  ............  96 

Cyanide  of  Gold  ........................................  70 


Damask-Its  Production    in    Relief  on  Gun 

Barrels  ................................................  I4O 

Dead  Black  Finish  on  Copper  ...........................  70 

Dead  Lustre  on  Gold  and  Silver  .........................  108 

Decorating  Tin  Plate—  Varnish  for  ......................  191 

Decorating  Zinc  ........................................  71 

Defective  Places  in  Castings—  Cement  for  ...............  37 

Delatot's  Alloy  .........................................  TZ 

Delta  Metal  ............................................  72 

Dial  Plates,  Silver—  To  Clean  ...........................  58 

Diamond  Amalgam  .....................................  9 

Diamond    Cement  .......................................  34 

Discovering  Lead  in  Tin  ................................  72 

Dipped  Brass—  Lacquer  for  .............................  105 

Distinguishing  Cast  Iron,  Steel  and  Wrought  Iron  .......  73 


Edges  Polished-Varnish  for 192 

Elastic   Lacquer 105 

Electrical   Cement 34 

Electrical  Conduits— Insulation  for 95 

Emetic— Tartar 177 

Enameled  Work— Solder  for 143 

Enameled   Work— Soldering 168 

Enameling   Castings 73 

Enameling  Cast  Iron 73 

Enameling  Iron  Ware  with  Porcelain 74 

Enamel— Test  for 74 

English  Silver  Soap 74 

English  Sterling  Metal 75 

Etching  Liquid  for  Steel 75 


INDEX.  213 

Etching  Names  on  steel  ................................  75 

ELching  on  Glass  .......................................  76 

Etching  on  Steel  ........................................  76 

Evans'  Metallic  Cement  ................................  34 

Extinguisher—  Fire  ......................................  80 

Extracting  Rust  from  Nickel-Plated  Articles  ............  150 

Extracting  Rust  from  Steel  .............................  150 


Fastening  Asbestos  to  Iron  ..........................  77 

Fastening  Copper  on  Sandstone  —  Cement  for  ............     38 

Fastening  Hooks  in  Stone—  Cement  for  ..................     37 

Fastening  Iron  to  Stone—  Cement  for  ...................     37 

Fastening  Knife  and  Fork  Handles  ......................     77 

Fastening  Leather  to  Iron  ........  .  .....................     77 

Fastening  Paper  Labels  to  Iron  .........................     77 

Fastening  Roof  .........................................     77 

Fastening  Stone  to  Iron—  Cement  for  ...................     38 

Fastening  Tin  Down  ...................................     78 

Fat—  Soldering  ..........................................   168 

Ferric   Chloride  .........................................     78 

Ferric   Oxide  ...........................................     78 

Ferric    Sulphate  ........................................     78 

Ferricynanide   Potassium  ...............................   138 

Ferro   Manganese  .......................................     79 

Ferrous   Chloride  .......................................     79 

Ferrous   Sulphate  .......................................     79 

Ferrous  Sulphate  —  Ammonia  ............................     10 

Files—  Cleaning  Solder  from  ............................     51) 

Files—  Sharpening  .......................................  152 

Files—  To  Make  Knives  from  ............................   110 

Files—  To  Mend  .........................................  112 

File  Teeth—  Removal  of  Grease  from  ....................  143 

Filing  Brass  ............................................     7'J 

Filing   Bronze  ..........................................     7'J 

Filing  Cast  Iron  ..............................  ..........     79 

Finish—  Dead  Black  on  Copper  ..........................       7 

Finish  for  Brass  Pipe  ..................................     19 

Fire  Brick  ..............................................     79 

Fire    Extinguisher  ......................................     80 

Fire  Grenades,  Hand—  Solution  for  ............  .*  .........     89 

Fire    Kindler  ...........................................  104 

Fire-Proof  Brown  Bronze  on  Copper  and  Brass  ..........     20 

Fire-Proof    Cement  .....................................     35 


214  INDEX. 

Fire-Proof  Paper  .......................................  123 

Fluid  Metal  for  Plaster  Paris  Mold  Impressions  .........  113 

Fluid—  Soldering  ........................................  168 

Flux  for  Hard  Solders  ..................................  80 

Fork  Handles—  To  Fasten  ...............................  77 

Forks—  Cementing  in  Silver  Handles  ....................  49 

Forks—  Cementing  in  Their  Handles  .....................  41) 

Freeing  Polished  Steel  Articles  from  Rust  ...............  149 

Friction  (Anti)—  Composition  ............................  10 

Friction  Matches  .......................................  Ill 

Frosting  Brass  .........................................  80 

Frosting  Tin  Plates  .....................................  80 

Furnace  Lining  .........................................  80 

Furnace  Pipes—  Paste  for  ...............................  123 

Fusible   Metals  .........................................  114 


Galvanized  Cast  Iron  .....................  .  ..............  81 

Galvanizing  with  Gold  ..................................     82 

Gasfitters'  Cement  ......................................     47 

German  Britannia  Metal  ................................     82 

German  Silver  Pickling  .................................  127 

German  Silver—  Solder  for  ..............................  161 

Gilded  Articles—  Separation  of  Gold  from  ................   151 

Gilding  —  Bronze  for  .....................................     21 

Gilding—  Light  Test  for  .................................     82 

Gilt—  Polishing  .........................................    12<J 

Glass  and  Brass—  Cement  for  ............................     36 

Glass  and  Metal—  Cement  for  ...........................     42 

Glass  and  Tin—  Cement  for  ..............................     46 

Glass  and  Zinc—  Cement  for  .............................     46 

Glass—  Cement   for  ....................................  38,  47 

Glass—  Cementing  Into  Metal  ...........................     48 

Glass  Lamps  —  Cement  for  Metal  Parts  on  ...............     43 

Glass  Parts  on  Lamps—  Cement  for  ......................     38 

Glass—  Solder  for  .......................................  161 

Glass—  To  Coat  with  ....................................     60 

Glass—  To  Etch  on  ......................................     76 

Glass,  Wood  and  Metal—  Cement  for  .....................     3!) 

Glazing  Metals  .........................................     84 

Globes,  Silvering  —  Liquid  Amalgam  for  ..................       0 

Glossy  Black—  To  Coat  Cast  Iron  ........................     61 

Gluing  Cloth  to  Tin  .....................................     84 

Gluing  Labels  on  Tin  Boxes  ............................     84 


INDEX.  215 

Gluing  Leather  to  Iron 84 

Gold  Beating 85 

Gold  Bronze 22,  85 

Gold  Bronzing  for  Iron 85 

Gold— Chloride  of 54 

Gold-Colored  Surface  on  Brass 86 

Gold— Cyanide  of 70 

Gold— Dead  Lustre  on 108 

Golden   Bronze— Cleaning 57 

Gold— Genuine  Test  for 86 

Gold-Hard  Solder  for 165 

Gold  Lacquer 106 

Gold  Lacquer  for  Metal  Goods 106 

Gold— Mosaic 116 

Gold— Nurnberg 120 

Gold  Polishing 129,  131 

Gold  Polishing— Powder  for 134 

Gold — Recovery  of,  from  Sweepings 142 

Gold— Removal  of  Tarnish  from,  After  Hard  Soldering. . .  145 

Gold  Salt 86 

Gold— Separation  of,  from  Gilded  Articles 151 

Goldsmiths— Polishing  Powder  for 134 

Gold   Solder 161,  164 

Gold    Soldering 16!) 

Gold  Stains  for  Brass 86 

Gold— Steel  Made  to  Imitate 178 

Gold— Talmi 177 

Gold— To  Galvanize  with 82 

Gold— To  Make  Platinum  Adhere  to 109 

Gold— To  Purify 87 

Gold  Ware— Test  for 87 

Granite  Ware— To  Mend 112 

Gray  Cast  Iron  Soldering 168 

Gray  Coating  on  Zinc 87 

Gray  Color  for  Iron  and  Steel 87 

Grease— Its  Removal  from  File  Teetb 143 

Green  Bronze  for  Brass 22 

Green  Bronze  for  Tin 23 

Green    Bronzing 26 

Green  Coating  on  Zinc 87 

Green  Japan  Grounds 98 

Green— Mineral 115 

Green— Schweinfurth 150 

Green  Transparent  Varnish . .  193 


216  INDEX. 

Green  Varnish  for  Metals  ...............................  193 

Grenades,  Fire,  Hand—  Solution  for  .....................  89 

Ground—  Black  for  Japanning  ...........................  97 

Grounds—  Blue   Japan  ...................................  98 

Grounds  —  Green  Japan  ..................................  98 

Grouvelle's  Oil  Cement  .................................  47 

Gui-shi-bu-ichi  ..........................................  7 

Gum  Copal  .  .  ...........................................  88 

Gun  Barrels—  Bronze  for  ................................  '22 

Gun  Barrels—  Production  of  Damask  in  Relief  on  ........  140 

Gun   Metal  ...................................  ..........  89 

Gutta  Percha  Cementing  on  Metal  ......................  50 

Gutta  Percha—  To  Melt  .................................  112 

Gutters,   Leaky—  Repairing  ..............................  146 


Hand  Fire  Grenades—  Solution  .......................  89 

Handles—  Cementing  Porks  in  ...........................  49 

Handles—  Cementing  Knives  in  ..........................  49 

Hard  Brass—  Solder  for  .................................  101 

Hardening  Cast  Iron  ...................................  89 

Hardening  Compound  for  Steel  ........................  07,  89 

Hardening  Compound  for  Steel  and  Wrought  Iron  .......  89 

Hardening    Copper  ......................................  90 

Hardening  Mixture  for  Iron  ............................  90 

Hardening  Soft  Iron  ....................................  90 

Hardening  Steel  Piano  Wire  ............................  90 

Hardening    Tools  .......................................  91 

Hardening    Zinc  ........................................  91 

Hard   Lead—  Nickel  .....................................  118 

Hard  Solder  for  Brass  ..................................  104 

Hard  Solder  for  Copper  ..................................  104 

Hard  Solder  for  Gold  ...................................  105 

Hard  Solder  for  Iron  ...................................  105 

Hard  Solder  for  Silver  ..................................  165 

Hard  Solder  for  Small  and  Thin  Pieces  ..................  165 

Hard  Soldering—  Removal  of  Tarnish  from  Gold  After.  .  .  145 

Hard  Solders—  Flux  for  .................................  80 

Hard  Steel—  Making  Holes  in  ............................  109 

Harness    Blacking  ......................................  15 

Heated  Objects—  Cement  for  ............................  39 

High  Temperature  Iron  —  Cement  for  ....................  52 

Holes  in  Castings—  Alloy  for  ............................  0 

Holes—  to  Make,  in  Hard  Steel  ..........................  109 


INDEX.  21T 

Hood's  Amalgam 0 

Hooks  in  Stone— Cement  for 37 

Horn   Silver 13:.' 

Hulot's  Solder  for  Aluminum  Bronze . .  166 


Imitation  Japanese  Lacquer IO6 

Improving  the  Color  After  Brass  Has  Been  Joined  with 

White  Solder 9:> 

Ingrained  Rust— Removal  of,  from  Iron 140 

Ink— Carmine 92 

Ink— Copying 9:.' 

Ink  for  Marking  Tinware 93 

Ink  for  Rubber  Stamps 93 

Ink  for  Stencil  Marking 93 

Ink  for  Writing  on  Steel 94 

Ink  for  Writing  on  Tin 94 

Ink  for  Writing  on  Zinc 94 

Ink— Printers' 139 

Ink— Silver 135 

Insulating  Covering  for  Steam  Pipes 

Insulation  for  Electrical  Conduits , 

Insulation  of  Steam  Boilers 

Iridescent  Metal  Coloring 96 

Iron  and  Leather— Cement  for 41 

Iron  and  Steel— Aluminum  Coating  for 8 

Iron  and  Steel— Blue  Color  for 16 

Iron  and  Steel— Brilliant  Blaek  for 20 

Iron  and  Steel— Gray  Color  for 87 

Iron,  Band— Tinning 180 

Iron,  ^Black 14 

Iron,  Black— Cement  for  Iron  Ovens 33 

Iron— Black  Varnish  for 188 

Iron— Bluing 18 

Iron— Bronzing 26.  27 

Iron,  Case-Hardening—Compound  for 32 

Iron,  Cast— Bronze  for 21 

Iron,    Cast — Bronzing 25 

Iron,   Cast— Case-Hardening 32 

Iron,    Cast— Galvanized 81 

Iron,  Cast— Gray  Soldering 168 

Iron,  Cast— Silvering 153 

Iron,   Cast— Softening 156 

Iron,   Cast— Soldering 168 


218  INDEX. 

Iron,  Cast— Soldering  Brass  to 167 

Iron,  Cast— Tinning 180 

Iron,  Cast— To  Coat  a  Glossy  Black 61 

Iron,  Cast— To  Distinguish 73 

Iron,  Cast— To  Enamel 73 

Iron,  Cast— To  Harden 78 

Iron— Casting  with  Pure  Lead 32 

Iron  Cement 51 

Iron  Cement  for  High  Temperatures 52 

Iron  Cementing  to  Wood 40 

Iron— Chilling  Very  Hard 54 

Iron  Cisterns— Cement  for 3'J 

Iron,  Coating— Varnish  for 11)0 

Iron— Fastening  Asbestos  to 77 

Iron— Fastening  Leather  to 77 

Iron — Fastening  Paper  Labels  to 77 

Iron— Gluing  Leather  to 84 

Iron— Gold  Bronzing  for 85 

Iron— Hardening  Mixture  for 90 

Iron— Hard  Solder  for 105 

Iron  Instruments — Solder  for 102 

Iron— Lining  with  Porcelain 107 

Iron  Ovens— Black  Cement  for 33 

Iron— Paiut  for 121 

Iron  Pans,  Repairing — Cement  for 44 

Iron  Patterns — Varnish  for 191 

Iron  Plates— Cutting  Out  with  Sulphuric  Acid 90 

Iron  Plates  Zinc  Covered 199 

Iron  Polishing 131 

Iron  Pots  and  Pans— To  Mend 113 

Iron— Preservative  for 138 

Iron— Preventing  Rust  in 131) 

Iron— Protecting  from  Rust 140 

Iron  Railings — Cement  for 39 

Iron — Removal  of  Ingrained  Rust  from 149 

Iron,  Russia— Preventing  Rust  in 139 

Iron,  Russia— Soldering 170 

Iron,   Russia— Testing 178 

Iron  Rust— Cement  for 53 

Iron— Silvering 153 

Iron— Silver  Solder  for 172 

Iron,  Sheet— Blackening 14 

Iron,  Sheet— Japan  for 101 

Iron,  Sheet— To  Copper G7 


INDEX.  219 

Iron,  Soft—  To  Harden  ..................................  90 

Iron—  Steel  Polish  on  ...................................  137 

Iron  Stove  Cement  ......................................  52 

Iron—  To  Coat  with  Copper  ............................  60,  61 

Iron  to  Iron  —  Cementing  ................................  49 

Iron  to  Stone—  Cement  for  ..............................  38 

Iron—  Ungilding  .........................................  186 

Iron—  Varnish  for  .......................................  11)1 

Iron—  Varnish  to  Prevent  Rust  in  ........................  194 

Iron  Ware—  To  Enamel  with  Porcelain  ..................  74 

Iron  Work—  Black  Varnish  for  ..........................  187 

Iron  Work—  Protecting  from  Rust  .......................  140 

Iron,  Wrought—  To  Distinguish  ..........................  73 

Isoli  t  ...................................................  96 

Ivory—  Removal  of  Stains  from  ..........................  145 


Japan—  Black  ...............................................  97 

Japanese  Alloys  ........................................  7 

Japanese  Bell  Metal  ....................................  102 

Japanese  Lacquer—  Imitation  ............................  106 

Japan  Grounds—  Blue  ................  ...................  98 

Japan  Grounds—  Green  ..................................  98 

Japanning  ..............................................  99 

Japanning—  Black  Ground  for  ...........................  97 

Japanning  Old  Tea  Trays  ...............................  99 

Japan—  Orange  Colored  .................................  100 

Japan—  Painted  .........................................  100 

Japan—  Purple  ..........................................  100 

Japan—  Scarlet  ..........................................  10 

Japan—  Sheet  Iron  ......................................  10 

Japan—  Tortoise  Shell  ...................................  101 

Japan—  Transparent  .....................................  102 

Japan—  Yellow  ..........................................  102 

Jewelers'  Cement  .......................................  52 

Jewelers'  Rouge  .................  .  ......................  129 

Jewelers'  Silver  Solder  .....................  .  ...........  172 

Jewelry—  Aluminum  Bronze  Solder  for  ...................  161 

Johnson  &  Lund's  Amalgam  ............................  9 

Joints—  Cement  for  ....................................  39,  52 

Joints,  Reservoir  —  Cement  for  ...........................  44 

Joinis,  Steel—  Silver  Solder  for  ..........................  173 

Joints,  Stove—  Cement  for  ...............................  45 

Joints—  To  Make  Sound  .................................  109 


220  INDEX. 


Karakene  ................................................  7,  IO2 

Kamarsch's  Britannia  Metal  ............................  103 

Keeping  Machines  from  Rusting  ........................  103 

Keeping  Metals  from  Rusting  ...........................  103 

Keeping  Tinware  Bright  ................................  104 

Keller's  Britannia  Metal  ................................  104 

Kerosene  Lamps—  Cement  for  ...........................  40 

Kerosene  Testing  .......................................  177 

Kindler—  Fire  ...........................................  104 

Knife  and  Fork  Handles—  To  Fasten  ....................  77 

Knives—  Cementing  in  Silver  Handles  ...................  49 

Knives—  Cementing  in  Their  Handles  ....................  49 

Knives—  Removing  Rust  from  ...........................  144 

Knives—  To  Make  from  Old  Files  ........................  110 


Labeling  Tin-Mucilage  for  .........................  I  18 

Labels  —  Cement  for  Fastening  on  Polished  Nickel  ........     38 

Labels  on  Nickel—  Cement  for  ...........................     40 

Labels—  Paper  to  Fasten  to  Iron  .........................     77 

Labels—  Paste  for  .......................................  l£i 

Labels—  Pasting  on  Tin  .................................   124 

Labels—  To  Glue  on  Tin  Boxes  ..........................     84 

Lacquer  —  Brass  .........................................   104 

Lacquer—  Coffee-Colored  .................................   104 

Lacquer—  Colorless  ......................................    105 

Lacquer—  Elastic  ........................................   105 

Lacquer  for  Dipped  Brass  ...............................   105 

Lacquer  for  Polished  Brass  .............................  105 

Lacquer  for  Steel  .......................................  106 

Lacquer  for  Tin  ........................................   106 

Lacquer—  Gold  ..........................................   106 

Lacquer,  Gold—  For  Metal  Goods  ........................   106 

Lacquer—  Imitation  Japanese  ....................  .-  .......  10G 

Lamps—  Cement  for  Metal  Parts  on  .....................     43 

Lamps,  Glass  Parts  on—  Cement  for  .....................     38 

Lamps,  Kerosene  —  Cement  for  ..........................     40 

Lawrence's  Amalgam  ...................................       9 

Lead—  Acetate  of  .......................................       5 

Lead—  Chloride  .........................................    107 

Lead    Hard   Nickel  .....................................   118 


INDEX.  221 

Lead  Pipe,  Leak  in—  Cement  for  .........................  41 

Lead,  Pure—  Casting  Iron  with  ..........................  32 

Lead—  Separation  of  Zinc  from  ..........................  15 

Lead—  Sulphate  .........................................  107 

Lead—  Testing  Tin  Pipe  for  .............................  183 

Lead—  To  Discover  in  Tin  ...............................  72 

Leak  in  Lead  Pipe—  Cement  for  .........................  41 

Leaky  Boilers—  Cement  for  .............................  41 

Leaky  Gutters—  Repairing  ...............................  14« 

Leather  and  Iron  —  Cement  for  ..........................  41 

Leather—  Polishing,  Cleaning  ............................  58 

Leather  to  Iron—  To  Fasten  .............................  77 

Lettering  Upon  Steel  ...................................  107 

Letters,  Metal—  Cement  for  .............................  42 

Lechesne  ...............................................  107 

Lids,  Crucible—  Cement  for  Luting  ......................  41 

Light  Gilding—  Test  for  .................................  82 

Light  Silvering—  Test  for  ...............................  154 

Lining  for  Furnaces  ....................................  80 

Lining  Iron  with  Porcelain  ..............................  107 

Lining,  Stove—  To  Mend  ...........................  .  .....  113 

Lipowitz—  Alloy  .........................................  7 

Liquid  Amalgam  for  Silvering  Globes  ....................  9 

Liquid  Bronze  ..........................................  23 

Liquid—  Etching  for  Steel  ...............................  75 

Liquid  for  Browning  Copper  ............................  30 

Liquid  Silver—  Test  for  .................................  155 

Liquid—  Soldering  .......................................  170 

Loosening  Rusted  Screws  ...............................  141) 

Luminous  Oil  Color  Paint  ...............................  122 

Luminous  Paint  ........................................  122 

Luminous    Paints—  Orange  ..............................  120 

Lustre,  Dead—  On  Gold  and  Silver  ..............  .........  108 

Lustre  for  Tin  ..........................................  108 

Lustreless  Surfaces  on  Steel  ............................  108 

Lustrous  Black  on  Brass  ................................  109 

Luting  Crucible  Lids—  Cement  for  .......................  41 


Machine  Parts—  Cement  for  ..........................  41 

Machinery—  Varnish  for  ........................  .  ........  192 

Magnets—  Tempering  ................................  ....   177 

Making  Holes  in  Hard  Steel  .............................  109 


222  INDEX. 

Making  Joints  Sound 109 

Making  Metal  Pipes Ill 

Making  Platinum  Adhere  to  Gold 109 

Malleable  Brass 110 

Malleable  Britannic  Metal 110 

Manufacture  of  Knives  from  Old  Files 110 

Marble  Cleaning 58 

Marbling  Zinc Ill 

Marking— Stencil  Ink  for 1)3 

Marking  Tinware— Ink  for 93 

Matches— Friction Ill 

Medals  and  Coins— Cleaning 57 

Medals— Bronze  for 22 

Medals— Bronzing 28 

Melting  Gutta  Percha 112 

Mending  Files 112 

Mending  Granite  Ware 112 

Mending  Iron  Pots  and  Pans 113 

Mending  Stove  Lining 113 

Mercuric   Nitrate 118 

Mercury— Tefct  for 113 

Metal— Aich 5 

Metal  and  Glass— Cement  for 42 

Metal  and  Wood— Cement  for 38 

Metal— Ashberry 11 

Metal— Babbitt's  Anti-Attrition 11 

Metal— Bell 13 

Metal— Biddery 13 

Metal— Birmingham  Britannia 13 

Metal— Britannia 20 

Metal,    Britannia— Malleable 110 

Metal,   Britannia— Pewter 125 

Metal,   Britannia— Wagner's 194 

Metal— Bronze 23 

Metal— Browning 30 

Metal  Cement 53 

Metal— Cementing  Glass  Into 48 

Metal— Cementing  Gutta  Percha  on 50 

Metal— Cementing  Rubber  on 50 

Metal— Cliche 59 

Metal    Coloring— Iridescent 96 

Metal— Delta 72 

Metal— English  Sterling 75 

Metal  Fluid  for  Plaster  Paris  Mold  Impressions 13 


INDEX.  223 

Metal— German  Britannia 82 

Metal,  Glass  and  Wood— Cement  for 39 

Metal  Goods— Gold  Lacquer  for 106 

Metal— Gun 89 

Metal— Keller's  Britannia 104 

Metal  Letters— Cement  for 42 

Metallic    Cement— Evans' 34 

Metallic  Patterns— Transfer  Paper  for 185 

Metalline 114 

Metallique— Moire 115 

•Metal— Mlnofor 115 

Metal  Mountings  on  Brass— Cement  for 42 

Metal  Mountings  on  Porcelain— Cement  for 42 

Metal— Muntz 118 

Metal— Newton's 118 

Metal  Parts  in  Glass  Lamps— Cement  for 43 

Metal  Plates— To  Cement  on  Wooden  Boxes 49 

Metal  Pipes— To  Make Ill 

Metal  Polish  Paste 123 

Metal-Queen's 141 

Metal— Robierre's 147 

Metal— Rose's 147 

Metals— Fusible 114 

Metals— Green  Varnish  for 193 

Metals,  Sheet— Asphalt  Varnish  for 187 

Metals,  Sheet— Color  Varnish  for 189 

Metal   Sheets— Thin  Cementing 50 

Metal   Speculum 15 

Metals— Polishing 132 

Metals,  Polishing— Rouge  for 147 

Metals— Preventing  from  Rusting 119 

Metals,  Silvering— Powder  for 138 

Metals— Tinning 181 

Metals,  Tinning— Bath  for 179 

Metals— To   Glaze 84 

Metals— Tissier's 184 

Metal— Tournay's 184 

Metal   Varnish 193 

Metal— Warne's 194 

Metal— White 197 

Metal  Work— Soap  for 156 

Method  of  Coppering  Tin 114 

Minargent 115 

Mineral  Green 115 


224  INDEX. 

Mineral    Oil—  Removing  .................................  143 

Mining   Picks—  Tempering  ...............................  177 

Minofor  Metal  ..........................................  115 

Mirrors—  Silvering  ......................................  154 

Mixture—  Hardening  for  Iron  ............................  90 

Moire  Metallique  .......................................  115 

Mokume  ................................................  7 

Mosaic  Gold  ............................................  116 

Mousset's  Silver  Alloy  ..................................  7 

Movements,    Watch—  Polishing  ..........................  132 

Mucilage  ...............................................  116 

Mucilage—  For  Labeling  Tin  .............................  116 

Muntz  Metal  ...........................................  118 


Names-To  Etch  on  Steel  .............................  75 

Neogen  .................................................   118 

Newton's   Metal  ........................................  118 

Nickel—  Aluminum  ......................................   118 

Nickel-Chlorine  ........................................   118 

Nickel—  Hard    Lead  .....................................  118 

Nickeling  ...............................................    118 

Nickeling  Zinc  ..........................................  118 

Nickel,  Labels  on—  Cement  for  ..........................     40 

Nickel—  Nitric  ..........................................    11!) 

Nickel-Plated  Articles—  To  Extract  Rust  from  ...........  150 

Nickel  Plate—  Removing  Rust  from  ......................   144 

Nickel-Plating  on  Zinc  ..................................  11!) 

Nickel  Polished—  Cement  for  Fastening  Labels  on  ........     38 

Nickel—  Recovery  of,  from  Old  Solutions  ................   142 

Nickel-Solder  for  ......................................  162 

Nickel—  Sulphate  ........................................    119 

Nickel  Waste—  Utilizing  .................................  187 

Nickel  Watch  Movements—  Polishing  ....................  132 

Nickel—  Zinc  ............................................   199 

Nitrate—  Bismuth  .......................................     14 

Nitrate—  Copper  .........................................     67 

Ni'trate—  Mercuric  .......................................   113 

Nitrate  of  Silver  ........................................  119 

Nitric—  Nickel  ..........................................    119 

Non-Poisonous  Silvering  Solution  .......................   155 

Non-Rusting   Coating  ...................................  119 

Nurnberg  Gold  .........................................  120 


INDEX.  225 


Oil  Cement  ..................................................  53 

Oil   Cement—  Grouvelle's  ................................  47 

Oil  Cement—  Stephenson's  ...............................  53 

Oil  Color  Luminous  Paint  ...............................  122 

Oil.Mineral—  Removing  ..................................  143 

Old  Brass—  Cleaning  ....................................  58 

Old  Files—  Cleaning  Solder  from  ........................  59 

Orange  Luminous  Paints  ................................  120 

Ormolu  Bronze  .........................................  23 

Ornaments,    Silver—  Cleaning  ............................  59 

Ornaments,  Zinc—  Cement  for  ...........................  47 

Oroide  ..................................................  120 

Oven  Cement  ...........................................  33 

Ovens,  Iron—  Black  Iron  Cement  for  .....................  33 

Oxide—  Argentic  ........................................  11 

Oxide—  Ferric  ...........................................  78 

Oxide—  Zinc  .............................................  199 

Oxidizing  Silver  or  Copper  ..............................  120 

Oxidizing  Zinc  ..........................................  120 


Packing  Steam   Pistons—  Cement  for  ............  43 

Painted  Japan  ..........................................  100 

Paint  for  Tin  Pots  .....................................   121 

Paint  for  Tin  Roof  and  for  Iron  .........................  121 

Paint  for  Tin  Roofing  ................................  ...  121 

Painting   Zinc  ..........................................  121 

Paint  —  Luminous  .......................................    122 

Paint,  Luminous—  Oil  Color  .............................  122 

Paint,    Luminous—  Orange  ...............................  120 

Pans,  Iron,  Repairing—  Cement  for  ......................     44 

Pans,  Iron—  To  Mend  ...............  .  ....................   113 

Paper—  Fire-Proof  ......................................   123 

Paper  Labels—  To  Fasten  to  Iron  ........................     77 

Paper—  Tracing  .........................................   184 

Paper,  Transfer—  For  Metallic  Patterns  .................  185 

Parts,  Machine—  Cement  for  ............................     41 

Paste  for  Cleaning  Brass  ...............................  123 

Paste  for  Furnace  Pipes  ................................  123 

Paste  for  Labels  ........................................  123 

Paste-Metal   Polish  ....................................  123 

Paste—  Polishing  ........................................  1S3 


226  INDEX. 

Paste— Polishing  for  Brass 133 

Paste— Polishing  for  Silvering 133 

Paste— Soldering 170 

Paste— Stove 124 

Paste— Stove    Polish 124 

Pasting  Labels  on  Tin 124 

Patina 24 

Patina  Bronze  on  Tin 23 

Patterns,  Iron— Varnish  for 191 

Patterns— Metallic  Transfer  Paper  for 185 

Peruvian    Bronze 23 

Pewter  Britannia  Metal 125 

Pewterers'  Solder 172 

Phosphide  of  Copper 123 

Phosphide  of  Tin 125 

Phosphor  Bronze 24 

Piano  Wire  Steel— To  Harden 90 

Pickling  Brats 126 

Pickling  Castings 127 

Pickling  German  Silver 127 

Pickling  Zinc 127 

Picks,   Mining— Tempering 177 

Pinchbeck 127 

Pipe  Conduits  Unexposed  to  Heat— Cement  for 43 

Pipe   Finish— Brass 19 

Pipe  Parts,  Brass  and  Copper— Cement  for 37 

Pipes,  Blast— Cement  for 36 

Pipes,  Furnace— Paste  for 123 

Pipes,  Metal— To  Make Ill 

Pipes,    Steam— Cementing 45,  50 

Pipes,  Steam— Insulating  Covering  for 94 

Pipes,  Steam— To  Cover 68 

Pipes,  Water— Cement  for 46 

Pipe,  Tin— Testing  for  Lead 183 

Pistons,  Steam— Cement  for  Packing 43 

Plaster  Paris  Mold— Impervious  Metal  Fluid  for 113 

Plating  Nickel  on  Zinc 119 

Plating,  Silver— Solder  for 172 

Plating  with  Platinum 127 

Platin'de 128 

Platinum— Chloride  of 54 

Platinum— Plating  with 127 

Platinum   Solder 171 

Platinum— To  Make  Adhere  to  Gold 109 


INDEX.  227 

Plumbers'  Coarse  Solder 172 

Plumbers'  Fine  Solder 172 

Plumbers'  Sealed  Solder 172 

Plumbers'  Soil 128 

Polished  Edges— Varnish  for 192 

Polished  Nickel— Cement  for  Fastening  Labels  on 

Polished  Steel— Freeing  from  Rust 149 

Polished  Steel— Removal  of  Rusit  from 144 

Polish  for  Pressed  Articles  of  Brass 128 

Polishing   Antimony 128 

Polishing  Articles  of  Steel— Gilt,  Bronze,  Gold,  etc 129 

Polishing  Balls  for  Silver 129 

Polishing    Brass 130 

Polishing  Brass,  Copper  and  Tombac 130 

Polished  Brass— Lacquer  for : 105 

Polishing  Cartridges 131 

Polishing   Gold 131 

Polishing  Iron 131 

Polishing,    Leather— Cleaning 

Polishing    Metals 132 

Polishing  Metals— Rouge  for 147 

Polishing  Nickel  Watch  Movements 132 

Polishing  Paste 133 

Polishing  Paste  for  Brass 133 

Polishing  Paste  for  Silvering 133 

Polishing   Pomade 133 

Polishing  Pomade  for  Gold 134 

Polishing  Powder— Belgian 12 

Polishing  Powder  for  Goldsmiths 134 

Polishing  Powder  for  Silver 134 

Polishing  Silver 135 

Polishing  Silvered  Ware 135 

Polishing  Silverware 135 

Polishing   Soap 135 

Polishing    Steel 131,  135 

Polishing    Tin 137 

Polishing  Water 137 

Polishing  Zinc 137 

Polish— Metal   Paste 123 

Polish— Steel  on  Iron 137 

Polish— Stove  Paste 124 

Pomade— Polishing 133 

Porcelain— Lining  Iron  with 107 

Porcelain— Metal  Mountings  on  Cement  for 43 


ir_'S  INDEX. 

Porcelain—  T-o  Euamel  Iron  Ware  \yith  ..................  74 

Potassium—  Ferricyanide  ................................  138 

Potin  ...................................................  138 

Pots,  Iron—  To  Mend  ....................................  113 

Powder—  Belgian  Polishing  ..............................  12 

Powder—  Copper  ........................................  67 

Powdering  for  Silvering  Metals  .........................  138 

Powder,  Polishing—  For  Gold  ............................  134 

Powder,  Polishing—  For  Goldsmiths  .....................  134 

Powder,  Polishing—  For  Silver  ...........................  134 

Preservative  for  Iron  and  Steel  .........................  138 

Preserving  Polished  Iron  Surfaces  ......................  138 

Pressed  Articles  of  Brass—  Polish  for  ....................  128 

Preventing  Metals  from  Rusting  ........................  149 

Preventing  Rust  in  Iron  and  Steel  ......................  139 

Preventing  Rust  in  Russia  Iron  .........................  139 

Preventing  Screws  from  Rusting  ........................  151 

Preventing  Steel  from  Rusting  ..........................  150 

Printers'    Ink  ...........................................  139 

Print   Process—  Blue  ....................................  17 

Prints—  Blue  ............................................  17 

Process  of  Blue  Printing  ................................  17 

Production  of  Damask  in  Relief  on  Gun  Barrels  .........  140 

Protecting  Iron  from  Rust  ..............................  140 

Protecting  Iron  Work  from  Rusting  .....................  140 

Prussiate  of  Silver  .....................................  140 

Pulverizing  Solder  ......................................  140 

Punctured  Tires—  Cement  for  ...........................  44 

Pure  Lead—  Casting  Iron  with  ...........................  32 

Purifying  Cistern  Water  ................................  141 

Purifying    Gold  .........................................  87 

Purple—  Japan  ..........................................  100 

Purple  of  Cassius  ......................................  141 

Putty—  Stove  ...........................................  141 

Putty—  Tin  .............................................  183 

Putty,   Old—  Removing  ..................................  144 


Queen's  Metal  ............................................  141 


Railings-Iron  Cement  for  .............................  39 

Recovery  of  Gold  and  SHver  from  Sweepings  ............  142 


INDEX.        •  229 

Recovery  of » Nickel  from  Old  Solutions 142 

Recovery  of  Tin  from  Scrap 142 

Red  Brass ID 

Refractory  Solder  for  Enameled  Work 143 

Removal  of  Ingrained  Rust  from  Iron 149 

Removing  Acid  Spots  from  Steel 143 

Removing  Grease  from  File  Teeth 143 

Removing  Mineral  Oil 143 

Removing  Old  Putty 144 

Removing  Rust  from  Cast  Iron 144 

Removing  Rust  from  Knives 144 

Removing  Rust  from  Nickel  Plate 144 

Removing  Rust  from  Polished  Steel 144 

Removing  Rust  from  Steel 145 

Removing  Rust  from  Steel  Tools 145 

Removing  Rusty  Bolts 145 

Removing  Stains  from  Ivory 145 

Removing  Tarnish  from  Gold  After  Hard  Soldering 145 

Removing  Wax  Spots 143 

Repairing  Agate  Ware 5 

Repairing  Church  Bells 55 

Repairing  Iron  Pans — Cement  for 44 

Repairing  Leaky  Gutters 146 

Repairing   Valleys 146 

Repairing    Wringers 146 

Repairing  Wringer  Rolls 146 

Replacing  Boiler  Bottoms 146 

Reservoir  Joints — Cement  for 44 

Restoring  Burnt  Cast  Steel 30 

Restoring  Burnt  Steel  Tools 31 

Robierre's  Metal 147 

Rods— Side  Brasses  for 19 

Rolls,    Wringer 198 

Roof— To  Fasten 77 

Roseine 147 

Rose's   Metal 147 

Rosthorn's   Sterro— Metal 147 

Rouge  for  Polishing  Metals 147 

Rouge— Jewelers' 12!) 

Roughening  Sheet  Brass 148 

Rubber— Cementing  on  Metal 50 

Rubber  Softening 156 

Rubber  Stamps— Ink  for 93 

Russia  Iron— Preventing  Rust  in 139 


230  INDEX. 

Russia  Iron— Soldering 170 

Russia   Iron— Testing 178 

Rust— Cement  for  Iron 53 

Rusted   Screws— Loosening 149 

Rust— Freeing  Polished  Steel  Articles  from 149 

Rusting— Preventing  Metals  from 149 

Rust,  Ingrained— Removal  of,  from  Iron 149 

Rusting— To  Prevent  Screws  from 151 

Rusting— To  Prevent  Steel  from 150 

Rust  Joint  Cements 53 

Rust— Preventing  in  Iron 139 

Rust— Preventing  in  Russia  Iron 139 

Rust— Preventing  in  Steel 139 

Rust— Protecting  Iron  from 140 

Rust— Protecting  Iron  Work  from 140 

Rust— Removal  of  from  Polished  Steel 144 

Rust— Removing  from  Cast  Iron 144 

Rust— Removing  from  Knives 144 

Rust— Removing  from  Nickel  Plate 144 

Rust— Removing  from  Steel 145 

Rust — Removing  from  Steel  Tools 145 

Rust— To  Clean  Screws  from 58 

Rust— To  Extract  from  Nickel  Plated  Articles 150 

Rust— To  Extract  from  Steel 150 

Rust— Varnish,  to  Prevent  In  Iron  and  Steel 194 

Rusty  Bolts— Their  Removal 145 


Salt-Cold 86 

Salt— Tin 183 

Sandstone— Cement  for  Fastening  Copper  to 38 

Saws— Soldering 170 

Scarlet  Japan 101 

Schweinfurth— Green 150 

Scouring  Cast  Iron,  Zinc  or  Brass 150 

Scrap— Recovery  of  Tin  from 142 

Scratch— Brushing 151 

Screws,    Rusted— Loosening 149 

Screws— To  Clean  from  Rust 58 

Screws — To  Prevent  from  Rusting 151 

Separation  of  Gold  from  Gilded  Articles 151 

Separation  of  Lead  from  Zinc 151 

Sepia,  Brown— For  Tin 152 

Shadke 7 


INDEX.  231 

Sharpening  Files 152 

Sheet  Brass— Roughening 148 

Sheet  Iron  Blackening 14 

Sheet  Iron— Japan 101 

Sheet  Iron— To  Copper 67 

Sheet  Metals— Asphalt  Varnish  for 187 

Sheet  Metals— Color  Varnish  for 189 

Sheet  Steel— Bluing 17 

Sheets,  Thin  Metal— Cementing 50 

Sheet  Zinc— Blacking 15 

Siachu 7 

Side  Rods— Brass  for 19 

Silver  Alloy— Mousset's 7 

Silver— Burnishing 30 

Silver— Carbonate 152 

Silver— Dead  Lustre  on 108 

Silver  Dial  Plates— To  Clean 58 

Silvered  Ware— Polishing 135 

Silver,    German— Pickling 127 

Silver  Handles— Cementing  Knives  and  Forks  in 49 

Silver— Hard  Solder  for 165 

Silver— Horn 152 

Silvering  Bronze 153 

Silvering  Cast  Iron 153 

Silvering  Cast  Zinc 153 

Silvering  Globes— Liquid  Amalgam  for 9 

Silvering  Iron 153 

Silvering— Light  Test  for 154 

Silvering  Metals— Powder  for 138 

Silvering  Mirrors 154 

Silvering— Polishing  Paste  for 133 

Silvering    Solution— Non-Poisonous 156 

Silver  Ink 155 

Silver— Liquid  Test  for 155 

Silver— Nitrate  of 119 

Silveroid 155 

Silver    Ornaments — Cleaning 59 

Silver— Oxidizing 120 

Silver— Polishing 135 

Silver,  Polishing— Balls  for 129 

Silver,  Polishing— Powder  for 134 

Silver— Prussiate  of 140 

Silver— Recovery  of,  from  Sweepings 142 

Silver— Silver  Solder  for 172 


232  INDEX. 

Silver    Soap— English 74 

Silver  Solder 172 

Silver  Solder  for  Brass 172 

Silver  Solder  for  Iron 172 

Silver  Solder  for  Jewelers 172 

Silver  Solder  for  Plating 172 

Silver  Solder  for  Silver 172 

Silver  Solder  for  Steel  Joints 173 

Silver— Sulphate 155 

Sliver  Sulphide 156 

Silverware— Polishing 135 

Silverware— Ungilding 180 

Similor 15G 

Small  and  Thin  Pieces— Hard  Solder  for 165 

Small  Articles— Cement  for 44 

Small   Articles— Tinning 181 

Small  Castings— Bronze  for 22 

Smells— Their    Correction 68 

Soap— English  Silver 74 

Soap  for  Metal  Work 156 

Soap— Polishing l.T, 

Soil— Plumbers' 128 

Softening  Cast  Iron 156 

Softening  Rubber 156 

Softening  Soldering  Coppers 157 

Softening  Steel 157 

Soft  Iron— Hardening 90 

Soft  Solder 173 

Soft  Solder  for  Aluminum  Bronze 174 

Soft  Solder— To  Color 64 

Solder 157 

Solder — Aoids   for 158 

Solder— Alloy  for 6 

Solder— Argentan 158 

Solder— Bismuth 158 

Solder  for  Aluminum 160 

Solder  for  Aluminum  Bronze 165 

Solder  for  Aluminum  Bronze  Jewelry 161 


Solde 
Solde 
Solde 
Solde 
Solde 


for  Britannia  Metal 160 

for  German  Silver 161 

for  Glass 161 

for  Gold 161 

for  Hard  Brass 161 


Solder  for  Iron  and  Steel  Instruments 162 


INDEX.  233 

Solder  for  Nickel 162 

Solder  for  Silver 162 

Solder  for  Tin  Pans 164 

Solder  for  Uniting  Brass  Tube  Seams 164 

Solder  for  Zinc  Castings 164 

Solder— Gold 164 

Solder— Hard  Flux  for 80 

Solder,  Hard— For  Copper,  Brass  and  Iron 104 

Solder,  Hard— For  Gold 163 

Solder,  Hard— For  Iron 163 

Solder,  Hard— For  Silver 163 

Solder,  Hard— For  Small  and  Thin  Pieces 163 

Solder,  Hulot's— For  Aluminum  Bronze 166 

Soldering  Aluminum  with  a  Blow  Pipe 166 

Soldering  Aluminum  with  a  Soldering  Iron 166 

Soldering — Autogenous 166 

Soldering  Brass  to  Cast  Iron 167 

Soldering  Bright  Copper 167 

Soldering  Cast  Iron  Articles 168 

Soldering,  Cold— Alloys  for 5 

Soldering  Coppers — Softening 157 

Soldering  Enameled  Work 168 

Soldering   Fat 168 

Soldering  Fluid 168 

Soldering  Gold 169 

Soldering  Gray  Cast  Iron 168 

Soldering,  Hard— Removal  of  Tarnish  from  Gold  After. .  145 

Soldering  Iron— Aluminum  Soldering  with 166 

Soldering  Iron— Soldering  Without 171 

Soldering  Irons — Tinning 182 

Soldering  Liquid 170 

Soldering  Paste 170 

Soldering  Russia  Iron 170 

Soldering  Saws 170 

Soldering  Without  a  Soldering  Iron 171 

Solder— Pewterers' 172 

Solder— Platinum 171 

Solder— Plumbers'  Coarse 172 

Solder— Plumbers'  Fine 172 

Solder— Plumbers'   Sealed 172 

Solder— Pulverizing 140 

Solder,  Refractory— For  Enameled  Work 143 

Solder— Silver. 172 

Solder,  Silver— For  Brass 172 


234  INDEX. 

Solder,  Silver— For  Iron 172 

Solder,  Silver— For  Jewelers 172 

Solder,  Silver— For  Plating 172 

Solder,  Silver— For  Silver 172 

Solder,  Silver— For  Steel  Joints 173 

Solder— Soft 173 

Solder,  Soft— For  Aluminum  Bronze 174 

Solder,  Soft— To  Color 64 

Solder-Spelter 174 

Solder— Tinners' 174 

Solder— Tinners'  Fine 174 

Solder— To  Clean  from  Old  Files 59 

Solder— To  Color 65 

Solder-Wire 174 

Solution  for  Hand  Fire  Grenades 89 

Solution,  Silvering— Non-Poisonous 155 

Solutions,  Old— Recovery  of  Nickel  from 142 

Speculum  Metal 175 

Spelter  Solder 174 

Staining  Wood  Black 175 

Stains,  Gold— For  Brass 86 

Stains— Their  Removal  from  Ivory 145 

Stamps,  Rubber— ink  for 93 

Stannic— Sulphite 175 

Statuary  Bronze 24 

Steam  Boilers— Cement  for 45 

Steam  Boiler  Insulation 175 

Steam  Pipes— Cement  for 45 

Steam  Pipes— Cementing , 50 

Steam  Pipes— Insulating  Covering  for 94 

Steam  Pipes— To  Cover 68 

Steam  Pistons— Cement  for  Packing 43 

Steel  and  Iron— Aluminum  Coating  for 8 

Steel  and  Iron— Blue  Color  for 16 

Steel  an  1  Iron— Brilliant  Black  for 20 

Steel  and  Iron — Gray  Color  for 87 

Steel  and  Wrought  Iron  Compound  for  Welding 196 

Steel  and  Wrought  Iron— Compound  for  Hardening 89 

Steel— Annealing 10 

Steel  Articles,  Small— Tinning 182 

Steel-Black  Varnish  for 188 

Steel— Bluing 18 

Steel— Bronzing 27 

Steel,  Burnt  Cast— To  Restore .  30 


INDEX.  235 

Steel,  Cast— Welding 195 

Steel  Compound  for  Hardening 67 

Steel— Etching  Liquid  for 75 

Steel— Extracting  Rust  from 150 

Steel-Gray  Coating 175 

Steel-Gray  on  Brass 176 

Steel-Gray  on  Copper 176 

Steel,  Hardening — Compound  for 89 

Steel,  Hard— Making  Holes  in 109 

Steel— Ink  for  Writing  on 94 

Steel  Instruments— Solder  for 162 

Steel  Joints-Silver  Solder  for 173 

Steel— Lacquer  for 106 

Steel— Lettering  Upon 107 

Steel— Lustreless  Surfaces  on 108 

Steel  Made  to  Imitate  Gold 176 

•Steel  Piano  Wire— Hardening 90 

Steel,  Polished— Freeing  from  Rust 149 

Steel,  Polished— Removal  of  Rust  from 144 

Steel  Polishing 131 

Steel  Polish  on  Iron 137 

Steel— Preservative  for 138 

Steel— Preventing  Rust  in 139 

Steel— Removing  Acid  Spots  from 143 

Steel,  Sheet— Bluing ' 17 

Steel— Softening 157 

Steel— To  Distinguish 73 

Steel— To  Etch  Names  on 75 

Steel— To  Etch  on 76 

Steel— To  Prevent  from  Rusting 150 

Steel  Tools,  Burnt— To  Restore 31 

Steel  to  Steel  Welding 196 

Steel  to  Steel  Welding— Compound  for 195 

Steel— Ungilding 186 

Steel— Varnish  to  Prevent  Rust  in 194 

Stencil  Marking— Ink  for 93 

Stephenson's  Oil  Cement 53 

Sterro   Metal 177 

Sterro  Metal— Rosthorn's 147 

Stone  Cement 53 

Stone,  Hooks  in— Cement  for. 37 

Stone  to  Iron— Cement  for 38 

Stone  Work— Cement  for 45 

Stove  Blacking 15 


286  INDEX. 

Stove  Cement 54 

Stove   Cement— Iron 52 

Stove  Joints— Cement  for 45 

Stove  Lining— To  Mend 113 

Stove  Paste l-'4 

Stove  Polish— Paste. .  i 1-4 

Stove  Putty 141 

Stoves— Black  Varnish  for 188 

Stoves— Cement  for 45 

Stoves,  Cracks  in— Cementing 48 

Studs,  Cast  Iron— Tinning 180 

Sulphate— Cupric 70 

Sulphate— Ferric 78 

Sulphate— Ferrous 71) 

Sulphate— Lead 107 

Sulphate— Nickel ill) 

Sulphate— Zinc 19-.1 

Sulphide— Silver 156 

Sulphide— Stannic 175 

Sulphuric  Acid— Cutting  Out  Iron  Plates  with 96 

Sun  Bronze 24 

Sweepings— Recovery  of  Gold  and  Silver  from 142 


Talml-Cold 177 

Tanks,  Cast  Iron— Cement  for 37 

Tarnish— Removal  of,  from  Gold  After  Hard  Soldering. .  145 

Tartar  Emetic 177 

Tea  Trays— Japanning 99 

Temperature,  High — Iron  Cement  for 52 

Tempering   Magnets 177 

Tempering  Mining  Picks 177 

Test  for  Brass 19 

Test  for  Enamel 74 

Test  for  Genuine  Gold 86 

Test  for  Goldware 87 

Test  for  Light  Gilding 82 

Test  for  Light  Silvering 154 

Teat  for  Mercury 113 

Test  for  Tin 183 

Testing  Kerosene 177 

Testing  Russia  Iron 178 

Testing  Tin  Foil . .  178 


INDEX.  237 

Testing  Tin  Pipe  for  Lead 183 

Thin  and  Small  Pieces— Hard  Solder  for 165 

Thin  Metal  Sheets— Cementing 50 

Tiers— Argent 178 

Tin  and  Card— Cement  for 36 

Tin  and  Copper— Alloy  of 7 

Tin  and  Glass— Cement  for 46 

Tin— Black  Varnish  for 188 

Tin  Boxes— To  Glue  Labels  on 84 

Tin— Bronze  Patina  on 23 

Tin— Bronzing 29 

Tin— Burning 178 

Tin— Fastening  Down 78 

Tin  Foil— Cement  for 46 

Tin  Foil  Testing 178 

Tin— Gluing  Cloth  to 84 

Tin— Green  Bronze  for 23 

Tin— Ink  for  Writing  on 94 

Tin— Lacquer  for 106 

Tin— Lustre  for 108 

Tin— Mucilage  for  Labeling 116 

Tinners' 'Fine  Solder 174 

Tinning 179 

Tinning  Band  Iron 180 

Tinning  Bath  for  Metals 179 

Tinning  Brass  and  Copper  Vessels 180 

Tinning  Cast  Iron 180 

Tinning  Cast  Iron  Chaplets 7 180 

Tinning  Cast  Iron  Studs 180 

Tinning  Cloth 180 

Tinning  Metals 181 

Tinning  Small  Articles 181 

Tinning  Small  Steel  Articles 182 

Tinning  Soldering  Irons 182 

Tin  Pans— Solder  for 164 

Tin— Pasting  Labels  on 124 

Tin— Phosphide  of 125 

Tin  Plate  Scraps— Untinning 186 

Tin  Plates— To  Crystallize 69 

Tin  Plates— To  Frost 80 

Tin  Plate— Varnish  for 1<»3 

Tin  Plate— Varnish  for  Decorating 191 

Tin  Pipe— Testing  for  Lead 183 

Tin— Polishing 137 


238  INDEX. 

Tin  Pots— Paint  for 121 

Tin  Putty 183 

Tin— Recovery  of,  from  Scrap 142 

Tin  Roofing— Paint  for 121 

Tin   Salt 183 

Tin,  Sepia— Brown  for 152 

Tin— Test  for 183 

Tin— To  Copper 114 

Tin— To  Discover  Lead  in 72 

Tin  Tubes— Bending 13 

Tinware— Brightening 1'J 

Tinware— Ink  for  Marking 93 

Tinware— To  Clean 59 

Tinware— To  Keep  Bright 104 

Tin— Washing  Brass  with 1!)4 

Tiros,  Punctured— Cement  for 44 

Tissier's  Metal 184 

Tombac 184 

Tombac   Polishing 130 

Tools,  Steel,  Burnt— To  Restore 31 

Tools,  Steel— Removing  Rust  from 145 

Tools— To  Harden 91 

Tortoise  Shell  Japan 101 

Tournay's  Metal 184 

Townsend's  Amalgam y 

Townsend's  Improved  Amalgam 9 

Tracing  Paper 184 

Transfer  Composition 185 

Transfer  Paper  for  Metallic  Patterns 185 

Transparent  Green  Varnish 1!»3 

Transparent  Japan 102 

Trays,   Tea— Japanning 99 

Tripoli 185 

Tubes,  Tin— Bending 13 

Tucker  Bronze 24 

Tutania . .  185 


L-T 

Ungi  Id  ing  Copper 186 

Ungilding  Iron  and  Steel 186 

Ungtlding  Silverware 186 

I'utinulng  Tin  Plate  Scraps 186 

Utilizing  Nickel  Waste 187 


INDEX.  239 


Valleys-Repairing  .......................................  146 

Varnish,  Asphalt—  For  Sheet  Metals  .....................  187 

Varnish,  Black—  For  Iroii  Work  .........................  187 

Varnish,  Black—  For  Steel  and  Iron  ......................  188 

Varnish,  Black—  For  Stoves  .............................  188 

Varnish,  Black—  For  Tin  ................................  188 

Varnish,  Black—  For  Zinc  ...............................  189 

Varnish,  Color—  For  Sheet  Metals  .......................  ISO 

Varnish—  Oopal  .........................................  100 

Varnish—  For  Coating  Iron  ..............................  100 

Varnish—  For  Coating  Wood  .............................  100 

Varnish—  For  Decorating  Tin  Plate  ......................  101 

Varnish—  For  Iron  ......................................  191 

Varnish—  For  Iron  Patterns  .............................  1'Jl 

Varnish—  For  Machinery  ................................  IX! 

Varnish—  For  Polished  Edges  ...........................  l:>2 

Varnish—  For  Tin  Plate  .................................  lo:>, 

Varnish,  Green  —  For  Metals  .............................  103 

Varnish—  Green  Transparent  ............................  193 

Varnish—  Metal  .........................................  193 

Varnish—  To  Prevent  Rust  In  Iron  and  Steel  .............  104 

Verdigris  ...............................................  104 

Violet  Coloring-  For  Brass  ..............................  63 


Wagner's  Britannia  Metal  ...........................  194 

Walker's  Amalgam  .....................................  9 

Ware—  Repairing,    Agate  ................................  5 

Warner's  Metal  ........................................  104 

Washing  Brass  with  Tin  ................................  104 

Waste  Nickel—  Its  Utilization  ...........................  187 

Watch   Movements—  Polishing  ...........................  132 

Water,   Cistern—  Purifying  ..............................  141 

Water  Pipes—  Cement  for  ...............................  4G 

Water  Polishing  ........................................  1:57 

Water  Proof  Cement  ....................................  35 

Wax   Spots—  Removing  ..................................  143 

Welding  Cast  Steel  .....................................  103 

Weld'.ng  Compound  —  For  Steel  to  Steel  .................  .  105 

Welding  Copper  ........................................  106 

Welding  Steel  to  Steel  ..................................  106 

Wolding  Wrought  Iron  and  Steel—  Compound  for  ........  106 

Welding  Wrought  Iron  to  Wrought  Iron  at  a  Red  Heat.  .  197 


240  -  INDEX. 

White  Metal  ...........................................  197 

Whitening   Brass  .......................................  197 

Whitening  Copper  ......................................  197 

Whitewash  .............................................  198 

Wire,  Piano,  Steel—  To  Harden  ..........................  90 

Wire  Solder  ............................................  174 

Wood  and  Metal—  Cement  for  ...........................  38 

Wood—  Cementing  Iron  to  ...............................  4'J 

Wood—  Coating  Varnish  for  .............................  190 

Wooden  Boxes—  Cementing  Metal  Plates  on  .............  49 

Wood,  Glass  and  Metal—  Cement  for  ....................  39 

Wood's  Alloy  ...........................................  8 

Wood—  Staining  Black  ..................................  173 

Wringer  Rolls  ..........................................  198 

Wringer  Rolls—  Clothes  .................................  198 

Wringer  Rolls—  Repairing  ...............................  148 

Wringers—  Repairing  ....................................  146 

Writing  on  Steel—  Ink  for  ...............................  94 

Writing  on  Tin—  Ink  for  ................................  94 

Writing  on  Zinc—  Inks  for  ..............................  94 

Wrought  Iron  and  Steel  Compound  for  Welding  ........  *  190 

Wrought  Iron  and  Steel  —  Hardening  Compound  for  ......  89 

Wrought  Iron—  To  Distinguish  ..........................  73 

Wrought  Iron  Welding  to  Wrought  Iron  at  a  Red  Heat.  .  197 


Yellow-Chrome  ...........................................  84 

Yellow—  Japan...  .......................................  102 


Zinc  and  Class— Cement  for 46 

Zinc— Black  Varnish  for 189 

Zinc— Bronzing 29 

Zinc  Castings— Solder  for 164 

Zinc,    Cast— Silvering 153 

Zinc— Chloride  of 54 

Zinc-Covered  Iron  Plates 199 

Zinc— Gray  coating  on 87 

Zinc— Green  Coating  on 87 

Zinc— Ink  for  Writing  on 94 

Zinc— Its  Decoration 71 

Zinc— Marbling Ill 

Zinc— Nickel 199 

Zinc— Nickeling 118 


INDEX.  241 

Zinc— Nickel  Plating  on lit) 

Zinc  Ornaments — Cement  for 47 

Zinc— Oxide 191) 

Zinc— Oxidizing 120 

Zinc— Painting 121 

Zinc— Pickling 127 

Zinc— Polishing 137 

Zinc— Separation  of  Lead  from 151 

Zinc,    Sheet— Blacking 15 

Zinc— Sulphate. 199 

Zinc— To  Coat  with 61 

Zinc— To   Color 66 

Zinc— To  Harden 91 

Zinc— To  Scour 152 


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